el_freddo

^^ This! Cheers Bennie

Even so, I’ve been blinded plenty of times with LED bar weilding vehicle’s that just don’t see the oncoming vehicle with dipped headlights... or sometimes with high beams on (enter high beam wars - where I think they work out their lights are still on high beam). Cheers Bennie

Short answer... No. Even moreso if you know nothing of spinning spanners or reading/following wiring diagrams. Either the EJ NAs or the turbo engines will require a wiring loom cut down and an adaptor plate. Go the turbo route and you’ll have to notch the engine crossmember (or find an EA turbo crossmember) and think about gearbox upgrade thoughts too. Once you’ve done one it’s pretty easy Cheers Bennie

Down with LED and HIDs! Halogen all the way for me. And what’s with the 55w globes? I’ve got 130w globes in my driving lights. You don’t need much more than this in three or four lights! Added that the “cool white” light is more like a blue light, it’s a very unstable light wave and thus is why they look so glary to oncoming drivers - but also look good to the driver as a driving light, they’re not getting all the thrown light back to them. Cheers Bennie

Going by what 3pin said, it could be a leaking injector or two. Other thought is the Idle Air Control Valve is dodgy or incorrectly adjusted. Throttle position sensor could be cleaned up and reset. Have you checked for codes? Cheers Bennie

Old fuel could be your issue. It certainly doesn’t help! My RS turbo liberty is waiting for some work. It won’t start without starter fluid OR putting a wad load of fresh fuel in the tank and cycling the fuel pump to get the fresh fuel to the injectors. Cheers Bennie

Try checking fuel level in the tank then confirming that the fuel pump runs. It could be a dead efi pump. Does it start with starter fluid? That will tell you there’s a fuel issue. Also check all fuses... just in case it’s that simple. Cheers Bennie

Ah one of the elusive fin tailed brumby/brats! You’re probably the only one here with this extended tray brumby/brat/MV! But definitely not the only one here with a brumby/brat/MV Loads of info for anything you need to know Cheers Bennie

Only thing I do after scraping off the old gasket is to wipe the mating surfaces with a white spirit like mentholated spirits. Then gasket on and bolt up to required torq specs. Cheers Bennie

My aftermarket gauge is T’d off the factory oil light switch point. It works a treat and is well worth the effort in my opinion. Cheers Bennie

Knock the two roll (or cotter) pins out. Use the correct sized punch as the inner pin passes through a hollow section in the diff stub. Get this wrong and you’ll be in a whole world of hurt. I’ve been there, done that. Get the inner CV cup moving on the diff output spline as these weld themselves together with rust if not removed “often”. Once that’s moving, jack up the rear wheel on the side that you’re removing the CV shaft. Remove the strut mount bolt and swing the hub down lower to release the CV shaft off one set of splines. The other side should just pull out. Install is the opposite of removal Cheers Bennie

For the snorkel I’ve used the Pajero NJ NK NL snorkel on my L series. With some sand and a heat gun I was able to bend the elbows back to meet the A pillar and still look tops. I’m not 100% sure how it would look on the MY body though. Here’s mine for comparison, my edges are squarer than the MY. I’ve properly used it once with the bow wave water 3/4 of the way up the bonnet Cheers Bennie

This one is factory turbo with WIAC intercooler. 2L engine. The US varient is the Legacy SS from what I understand. Cheers Bennie

This is sad. Better idea, sell the RX7!! Seriously though, you’ve gotta do what’s best for you and your situation, even if it makes a few hard board members shed a tear or three Cheers Bennie

Here’s a suggestion... don’t get airborne!! There’s no traction when airborne and to me (maybe a few others too), traction is what off-roading is all about! Cheers Bennie