el_freddo

You sure it’s not light lifter tick? Cheers Bennie

Do a search on the forum. Many have done it and from what I remember all of them crack the ring lands of the piston - I don’t know if this naturally happens over time with boost or if the builder got boost greed… GD isn’t a wrx guy per-sae, he runs a very successful Subaru specialist workshop and I believe he’s had loads of experience with the EA81 and EA82. Personally I think the EA82 is possibly Subarus worst 4 cylinder engine. Box cams suggest a rush into the over head cam 80’s marketing catch cry. I’d take an EA81 over an EA82 any day. I’d recommend an EJ conversion. From factory the EJ has similar power figures to the factory EA82t - but with much less complication in its build/operation. All the best with your decision and whichever way you go. Cheers Bennie

That’s awesome. There’s not many ppl I’d share my brumby/brat with! Cheers Bennie

If you’re talking about the seals under the plates for the hinges/latches, use an old bike tube to make new seals. I’ll be doing this with mine soon as they’re letting water in during mild rain events. Other way to do it is with sikaflex or some other sort of elastic like silicone, it could get messy but it could come up good too. Cheers Bennie

That’s a fair effort! I didn’t know cheap springs we’re a thing. Over here king springs are very reasonably priced so cheap rip off branded springs aren’t a thing that I know of… Cheers Bennie

Geez, that engine bay! Good effort! Cheers Bennie

I think you’d need to compare ECU pin outs manual vs auto. From the wiring looms I’ve cut down, I recall that the TCU needs are T’d into wires between sensors and the ECU. Cross reference part numbers and that will tell you more about what you’re up against. Before all of that. Look into the idle air control valve/mechanism. The rubber end on the plunger seems to get brittle and crack/wear in a groove that probably doesn’t supply the greatest seal when needed. Another thing, have you read the codes? I’d say that if you had an issue with the ECU you’d be experience more than erratic idle issues! Cheers Bennie

Could also be a difference in the control unit. You might find the auto uses a different unit to the manual. Cheers Bennie

I don’t see rust causing slip issues, if anything some rust in there (while it lasts) will provide extra friction and extra belt wear. It’s an interesting situation. My sister’s Gen3 RX is apparently doing the same thing, but it doesn’t seem to be as full on as what you’re describing - yet. Cheers Bennie

Our markets got the dual range until just recently I believe, all are AWD, no part time systems beyond the L series/MY brumby platforms that were phased out in the early to mid ‘90’s. Cheers Bennie

This is another one I was meaning to post about ages ago. This swap is into a Williams Wildcat skid steer tractor. Pretty cool piece of kit. From factory it ran the Wisconsin V4 - a popular stationary workhorse engine of that era. Not easy to get parts for over here these days… so what’s an alternative? Throw an EA81 above the location of the old engine with a solid shaft connecting the two hydraulic pumps that are mounted on either side of the engine, directly to its crankshaft. This one utilises a belt to deliver power from the flywheel to the hydraulic pumps: Pics borrowed from here: https://austrak-wildcat.com/wildcat-mods/ And this is the Williams Wildcat: The V4 in place: front view, seat is an addition: Above two pics from here: https://austrak-wildcat.com/2013/05/25/alans-incredible-wildcat/amp/ Very low centre of gravity gave it an edge on inclines, you can drive one of these across the sides of hills that would be considered dicey at best in a regular tractor. Great for slashing hillsides with. If anyone happens to be visiting Melbourne in Oz, head over to Spotswood Science works - they have what I think is the last one off the production line in one of their display sheds. Many of them were construction yellow, which is what this last example is painted in. That’s it for me and creating/swapping Subaru engines into bits of machinery. Now curious if anyone else has any to share, given the lack of responses so far I’m guessing it’s a pretty rare thing to do! Cheers Bennie

Any updates on this Todd? There’s this write up for the Gen3, some of it might be relevant to other models too: http://www.subyclub.com/topic/12666-diy-installretrofit-cruise-control-to-3gen-liberty/ Cheers Bennie

Interesting. Many of our Libertys (Legacy else where) in Oz are GL spec but don’t usually have that in their spec level description. The reason why I picked it as the LX base model was because of the tailgate trim. This is the dead giveaway for the hard to find LX model over here. Most of our libertys have this tailgate trim and full electrics, including factory cruise control: They’ve all got the raised roof over here too. I didn’t know the flat roof was even a thing until someone here was frothing over a raised roof shared on the forum. Cheers Bennie

Is that how they determine scar is roadworthy over there?? Cheers Bennie

Well you figured it out yourself before a dozen posts telling you want to check and look out for, kudos from me too for that. And don’t stress, before I knew about forums I had my rebuilt EA82 only ever running on one bank at a time. It took me about 6 months of working on the car before I worked out what the problem was - and that was only because my sister’s L series had the same issue after a HG swap. Once we worked that one out I had mine solved in just a few minutes. I was so stoked! So don’t go beating yourself up on not having replies with ideas but still finding the issue! Forums are slow now compared to pre Facebook and “smart” phones became a thing. Cheers Bennie