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el_freddo

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el_freddo last won the day on March 5

el_freddo had the most liked content!

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About el_freddo

  • Birthday 07/16/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Bridgewater, Vic, Aust.
  • Interests
    Subaru's, tinkering/fixing things - especially love pulling things to bits then trying to put them back together :D
  • Occupation
    Teacher
  • Biography
    Two eyes, nose, mouth... The usual...
  • Vehicles
    '88 L wagon '91 brumby, 93 RS wag

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  1. Some form of aftermarket engine management will definitely benefit your build for best performance and longivity. GD dealt with Link ECUs, others on here have used other brands, many of not all seem to do what’s required of them. Cheers Bennie
  2. Sometimes you just happen to get both lights blow on the high or low beam. Replacing the globes rectified the issue? If not, that’s when to start digging deeper into the problem. Cheers Bennie
  3. Sometimes it’s the simple things that cause the most grief (and wallet pain!). This relay mod is common on the early Liberty/Legacy’s too Cheers Bennie
  4. Heads and all the associated gear will move over to the replacement block regardless of where it came from. The thing to check out is any differences in the pistons that may affect small things that may or may not become an issue. Sorry I can’t be more definitive on that front, I haven’t played much with the later model engine blocks so don’t know for sure. Cheers Bennie
  5. Did you swap the timing gears over from the 2008 engine to the replacement 2001 engine? If not, that’s you’re issue I reckon. Cheers Bennie
  6. It would all depend on what info the TCU wants and/or shares with the ECU. If it’s just a matter of throttle angle, speed sensor, engine revs it should be sweet if you wire it in properly. If it wants more from the ECU then it gets more complicated from there… could do a whole body loom swap and drag over the matching engine for the complete setup 🤔 Cheers Bennie
  7. That was one of my thoughts but there’s a captive thread in that so where did the nut come from? I’d double check that you do in fact have the ball joint retainer bolt in place on either side and done up appropriately tight. You don’t want one of those ball joints dropping out and letting your hub take its own unplanned trip! My other thought was also the engine pitch stopper rod, I wonder if this was replaced with another bolt from somewhere else… Being that this was a “we” job - as in we did this and we did that… old mate isn’t stitching you up by placing this Subaru looking bolt in the mix of all your other nuts and bolts? That’s something a good mate might do as a prank! Cheers Bennie
  8. The good news is that I can’t see it being a bolt from a major component like a ball joint or hub retainer bolt as they have captive threads, rendering that nut useless. And it’s too short for a suspension arm bolt. I’ve had this many times without issue. Keep the left over bits aside in a labelled container incase you find a missing bolt. While they’re off the vehicle consider the effort as weight reduction. Cheers Bennie
  9. Thanks mate. Got the starting and idle issues sorted it seems. I think the idle mixture was too lean and driving it around hard for a bit may have moved come internal crud. Who knows?! Good news is it’s running well and seems to be returning good fuel economy. Cheers Bennie
  10. I’ll chime in on GD’s behalf. Burn it. Burn it to the ground and get some old school GM gear to drive into the Armageddon. Ok, maybe I lathered that on a bit thick but that’s kind of how I read GD rolling. Cheers Bennie
  11. And then buy what? Another car with someone else’s issues? I’d keep the vehicle you’ve ironed the issues out of. Otherwise trade it in at a dealership for a new vehicle and let them deal with it. Cheers Bennie
  12. Worked perfect before I touched the carb. I didn’t strip any of it down and left it as is since the rebuild. It’s also summer down here atm - not very cold for morning cold starts. Cheers Bennie
  13. Ok finally got an update on this one! I bit the bullet on buying a carb kit - for a DC 306 hitachi carb. This was a HTK-421 kit. Apparently for the needle and seat for the float valve I’d need the one from the kit HT432 but I didn’t bother and didn’t swap this bit as it wasn’t flooding the bowl. All went well with the rebuild. I’ve had to readjust my idle since tuning. Other thing I need to look into is why it’s hard to start when cold. The old double pump and crank trick doesn’t get it started. Once warmed up she fired up no worries! It runs well without any misfiring which I’m stoked about! Cheers Bennie
  14. Email them the link to the YouTube video. That might get them moving with some action. Cheers Bennie
  15. That bar work looks awesome all laid out like that! Good effort creating all of that. Having it painted would have it looking primo! Cheers Bennie
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