el_freddo

I’m just short of six two and I’m all good with the Integra seats Cheers Bennie

If anyone is interested in reading an epic build thread of a drift BRZ then hit the link. It’s currently still being build - and it’s being done by a bloke in his shed with his own skills. I don’t think he’s specifically in the auto industry as such. http://www.subyclub.com/topic/12659-joels-brz/ He’s got the build on other sites too, but I thought I’d be a good link to drop in the BRZ forum Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Throw up some pics when you get a chance, we love pics around here!! Cheers Bennie

Drive gears. Final ratio (diff) should be the same at 4.111:1. Cheers Bennie

I used a set of Integra DA9 seats. A bracket needed to be made up to support the back angle adjustment. A few new holes under the seat to reduce the rail width, then bolt the factory rails on and the seats in the brumby. These give me a nice “hug” while driving. I’ll have to get a pic as I don’t have one in my collection Cheers Bennie

Switches will swap. They’re all in the same location with the same thread type/size. So use the ‘07 trans as the parts box to make the ‘04 trans as compatible with the vehicle it’s going into. The ratios might be slightly different but since you’ve not got the EJ25 the 5th ratio should be the same and very little difference will be felt in any ratio changes. What’s gone wrong with the ‘07 box? Cheers Bennie

It’s most likely air being sucked into the PS fluid system. This is usually from a cracked pick up line from the remote reservoir. Other than that I’m stuck for ideas as this sort of feeling from air in the system would cause a vibration like sensation in the steering during turning the wheel left or right. Cheers Bennie

I don’t have the plaque, but I have the dealer installed AC system. I just have to get it up and running again... Cheers Bennie

You got cruise control from the dealer?? Damn!! I’ve added my own to both of my 80’s Subaru’s. Soooo good! We never got that option until the liberty/legacy when it was pretty much a stardard feature for many of the models except the LX I think. Cheers Bennie

Send us some pics. The problem is that once they remove that panel, what else will they find? If that area is rusted, you’re guaranteed to have rust under the windscreen rubber As for cost, I have no idea. Cheers Bennie

Damn I love that colour! I’m keen to source one in the same colour over here but they’re hard to come by and then they’re either beaten up good and proper or they’re too far out of my price range. Plus I can’t really complain since I have a red targa already... Keep her tidy! Cheers Bennie

My bet: slide pins or a dead bearing. I often wonder how rotors warp. My L series did this from time to time but would often clear up after hard braking. Theory here being that the front disc hand brake would hold heat much longer than the rest of the disc - if hard braking occurred before hand brake on and engine shut down, the rotor would cool at different rates, and it could’ve left a small amount of brake pad baked on the rotor. I haven’t had rotors turned and it’s not an issue. If it’s persistent, it’s usually a jammed slide pin. And what do you always use with new or turned rotors? New brake pads. I believe this could mask the real issue - gummed up slide pins. Worn bearings will also allow the disc to move around that can create a rumbly braking sensation. I believe is this my current issue in my Brumby. Once I’ve finished the current house move this will be looked at - as will the slide pins as a matter of course. Cheers Bennie

In my carb fed brumby (brat) I’ve used the water method. Take the car for a drive until it’s all proper hot and thermo fans are working. The drive is to heat all the internal parts rather than just the coolant as such. Then with some revs - 1500-2000rpm, I trickle demineralised water down the carb until revs are effected, let it build revs again and hit it again. I do this a number of times with the intention of creating a steam like effect in the cylinder to lift the carbon off the piston and combustion chamber. I couldn’t say if it actually worked or not as I don’t have pics etc. Cheers Bennie

Mate, top job regardless of which era logo you have. A very nice detail and also one of the reasons as to why I’d love the get a 3D printer and learn how to use it! Cheers Bennie

Hey Giles, thanks for replying! I thought after it - geez that was a bit rash of me to ask about how deep your pockets are!! I’ve got too many projects! Some of the small ones are: - fitting an auxiliary tank to our NP Pajero/Shogun (new to the family, love this car!). Other ongoing projects are - and you’ll probably recognise these: Ruby Scco: my off-roader. Redback Brum3y: (power windows, six gauge “long” analogue dash, rust repairs, respray someday and an EJ conversion at some point) ^ she’s already got AC and I’ve fitted PS and some nicer seats from a Honda Integra DA9. This is my ongoing project, I just want to get it going - need a good engine! This is a Subaru RS Liberty turbo. Can’t wait to have this going, get it on club reg (this year is the plan!) then start tidying her up while we enjoy driving her. Thise rims are now on my sister’s Gen3 RX liberty wagon that I maintain. It’s a very nice car to drive and recently clocked the 400,000km. I also look after my mother inlaw’s targa brumby “Sunnie the Burmby”. He’s got the long dash, electric windows and basically everything I want in mine except the EJ and a respray... So just a few on the go! Glad you asked?? I’d love to be giving the RS and the brumbys the same treatment your giving this vortex. And your budget is pretty reasonable. That’s about $AU6,000 (roughly). Keep up the garage time, I can’t wait for mine to kick in regularly again! And a happy Easter to you too mate! Now at dinner in a little town called Maldon for their easter fair and street dancing that starts in a couple of hours. It’s always a ripper night! Cheers Bennie