el_freddo

Hello Mark. I visited google translate and dropped this in the quote above for others to read in English. What you want to do is very achieveable. And it seems you have all the parts listed except maybe for pedal box and cables (if infact different to the RHD units). All the best in finding someone to help you out. Cheers Bennie

Dunno about dealer. Just good quality Japanese bearings. And remove the “seals”, then pack/replace with quality high temp grease. Replace one “seal” on the bearing and install with the open side facing into the middle of the hub. Throw a bit of grease in the centre area of the hub, then the spacer followed by the other bearing. Then your actual hub seals then the drive shaft. Don’t forget to prime the seals with some rubber grease so they don’t burn out. I do hope the bearings are the issue. As they’re relatively easy to fix. As for the four water crossings a day, that’s interesting. If they’re shallow (under the hub), you should be right, if they’re deeper than hub height and you’ve been on the brakes or straight off a main rd, you might want to consider cooling the hubs off before you cross through the water. Cheers Bennie

My question is what brand of front wheel bearings did you use? And has the inner seal been compromised/have you done any 4wdn involving deep mud or water crossings? All of these situations can kill the front bearings if a seal is toast or the hubs are hot when they hit cold water or in exteme cases, mud slurry is sucked into the bearings. Cheers Bennie

The curved spokes are the issue as FerGloyal has stated. They rub on the caliper. What you want is the set with spokes that have a much sharper bend in them with a flatter “face” of the spokes to hub surface. These clear the L series calipers. And don’t be fooled if they fit and you have worn brake pads. They can fit and work until you put fresh pads on, then the rim sits on the caliper or vice versa depending on your view of the matter Cheers Bennie

I thought you were going to say an EJ under the bonnet! Every L series owner definitely needs one! Cheers Bennie

It doesn’t look right. And it’s missing a plate in there so you’ve got a weak point at the bottom side of that lift block. Mine is a bit different, but the same principal applies - mine uses the standard plate in its original position, where as yours has it on a tower, giving it more leverage on the bolts. Add a second stock bracing plate where the K frame meets the lift block and I reckon you’ll strengthen this section up good and proper. Cheers Bennie

Don’t forget no filler neck on the BRZ radiator Cheers Bennie

Jono, you’ve pretty much nailed all the ways to do this from what I’ve tried/done myself. I’m currently running with a set of home made adaptors and use a cut down of the two EJ radiator hoses and one EA hose to make the setup work. It will be very similar to the EA81 setup - but I’m also running a lift so I have a bit more length to play with. I like your idea of turning that adaptor down. That’d be a neat solution. A custom pipe would be awesome but I don’t know of anyone who does this. Cheers Bennie

Awesome that you got her running again. There’s a few things you can do here: - find the timing marks and mark them with chalk or a bright coloured texta. - check that the cam belt timing is correct and not several teeth out - make sure you’re checking the timing using spark plug #1 - dizzy could be a tooth out if someon has messed around with it/over advanced - also a good idea to replace the coil. Dead coils kill ignition modules. From my experience the coil is cheaper than the ignition module. Cheers Bennie

G’day Hoppy, Welcome to the forum. To have your query answered, it’s best to post in the EJ to present subforum. This will get your post the most exposure to the crew who might know what you’re looking for. Cheers Bennie

Yes! Another Aussie lifted L I’m looking forward to your build thread/story. Cheers Bennie

Really? A whole day an not one reply in the EJ forum?? Poor form ppls! Free bump! Cheers Bennie

You don’t have to split the brake line. Carefully cut the little retainer bracket, then bend the two sections back to allow the brake line to come free once the clip is removed (remove clip before cutting). Do the same on the new struts The brake line will still be retained by the clip in the bracket. Cheers Bennie

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm If you want more information I reckon General Disorder sums it up here quite well: Cheers Bennie

If it’s not knocking don’t “inspect” the bearings. Piston heads come out by pulling the gudgeon pins out through the side access hole. This leaves the conrod on the crank and the bottom end intact. I had this same thing on an EA82 ages ago, but no smoke when usually driving or coasting. But throttling on after coasting down a decent hill created a serious smoke screen. The engine was pulled down years after it was swapped out - we found failed ring landings and cracked rings on at least one cylinder. Cheers Bennie