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el_freddo last won the day on April 3

el_freddo had the most liked content!

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About el_freddo

  • Rank
    Eat, Live, Breath Subaru
  • Birthday 07/16/1982

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    Not Telling
  • Location
    Bendigo, Vic, Aust.
  • Interests
    Subaru's, tinkering/fixing things - especially love pulling things to bits then trying to put them back together :D
  • Occupation
  • Biography
    Two eyes, nose, mouth... The usual...
  • Vehicles
    '88 L wagon '91 brumby, 93 RS wag

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  1. If you've got a gen3, on the RX models at least, there's a wire on the back of the ps pump, make sure this is connected. Now, I don't know if the GX has this. I believe it's a solenoid to restrict the flow of fluid to the rack when driving at speed to give more "feel" in the steering. At low speed manoeuvring, this would make the power steering seem heavy. Another thing to check is to make sure there are no cracks in the remote reservoir pickup hose as these will suck air. This is for the Gen3, the Gen2 has the reservoir on top of the power steering pump. Cheers Bennie
  2. Also the cts - the ea82 MPFI/turbo one should be the same. Solder the wire and plugs on and you're sorted. I also wonder if the EJ cts can be used like this too - would need to compare resistance values and temp readings if possible. Cheers Bennie
  3. If it's the fuel pump (from the hot treatment to get it started) swap it out ASAP. I had one die on me in the middle of an intersection when performing a turn through a set of traffic lights in the Perth suburbs - my brother and I had to get out to push the bloody thing through the intersection on a green light for oncoming traffic. I hope they enjoyed the show... replacements should be plenty. Any external efi pump will do the job. I've got a 5L V8 efi pump from a VN Holden commodore in my L series. Same size and shape as the last pump and works a treat. I'm sure there's a commonly available pump like that over your way - you've got a much larger market than us so it shouldn't be too difficult. If the parts dude starts batting on about specific flow rates etc, get the make and model of vehicle the pump comes from and go elsewhere! That's what I did Cheers Bennie
  4. Pinion shaft is shorter for starters. There's no locking mechanism either. Rear housing would need to move with the centre diff of choice as does the matching pinion shaft. I'm sure the centre diff cases are very different so no swaps possible there either. Then shifter, tail shaft and gearbox crossmember mods are needed - but I reckon mods for the ea82 setup would be needed in a brumby anyway, just done differently to fitting the EJ AWD rear housing. Cheers Bennie
  5. Probably not, it's happening more and more often. You should read the one on subyclub while it was still up... had a full blown back story and all. Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo

    Calling Gannon

    Do you mean like this: EJ hub on the left, EA on the right - machined to fit the EJ upper gearset shaft. And yes, the input shaft bearing housings are different unless you get a Gen1 Series1 gearbox that's 3.9 ratio (from memory they're 3.9). To fix this you need to have an interference bush created to mate the EA low range input shaft with the EJ bearing. Any decent machine shop should be able to do this at a reasonable cost. And here's the diff setting without the input shaft housing in place - loads of viewing space! Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo

    Hello from Sweden!

    Welcome to the forum. I've just replied to your other thread Those tractor vehicles sound painful if you encounter them on the open road. It's a strange concept to me given how much distance we have between places over here... Cheers Bennie
  8. 5 speed diff is same width as the 4 speed. ea81 axles will fit IF you open the AWD locking centre diff box and swap the diff stub axles with that from a PT4wd 5 speed box. Then it's plug and play. Otherwise modify the ea81 shafts/axles to fit to the 25 plume diff stubs. I don't see the point in the rear gearbox. If you're using the centre diff to "equalise" the drive front to rear you're running the risk of chewing out the rare locking centre diff. Thow up some pics of the build when you can Cheers Bennie
  9. el_freddo

    1979 Brat Dual Carb EA81 Swap

    Top effort mate! I wish I had this amount of time I work on my subi's!! Pooparu, good to see you back too, we haven't seen you around here for a while from what I've seen Cheers Bennie
  10. That's awesome mate! I'm looking forward to the videos Cheers Bennie
  11. Thread dig! Finnpower, the ea82 engine crossmember doesn't directly bolt into the ea81's position. Since Musubk mentioned running a 3 inch lift, I'd say the adaption of the ea82 engine crossmember to the EA81 was done in the lift blocks. Very easy to do it this way. Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo

    Calling Gannon

    Gannon, it's good practice to move the selector forks with the gearsets so the ring and fork combo have worn together at the same rate. This also ensures that you don't have any unforeseen issues due to a slight change in something between these selector forks and the gearset selector rings. A good trick with the back last etc is to leave the input shaft and it's housing out when putting the halves together - it gives a very nice window to watch things through Cheers Bennie
  13. I've read that full synthetic oil will burn without creating a smoke cloud out the back of the vehicle. Mum's '03 Corolla would use 1L of oil for every 4-500km of driving! Not anything to see out the back to suggest it was burning oil. We believe the cylinders in this engine were badly glazed. It was replaced with another known good engine. You could be running an oil that's too thin for the wear in your engine too. Cheers Bennie
  14. Yeah that's probably "a bit" beyond repair ;( Bennie
  15. Don't we all... The joys of messing around with old parts, not to mention rare ones. No way of repairing the centre diff, shims etc? This is something I've looked into but have not acted upon as I don't need to atm. All the best. Cheers Bennie