el_freddo

Run a horn relay that handles the current. Have the switch turn the relay on and off. Cheers Bennie

I’d recommend putting your money towards an EJ conversion if you can. I did an EA82 MPFI conversion on my DL wagon. This is how I “cut my teeth” on EFI systems. No joke, I literally finished the conversion and rebuild when an old teacher introduced me to the Ausubaru forum where I quickly learnt about the EJ conversion. Since doing that to my DL I haven’t looked back. The EA died a sad death when the radiator blew apart in 45°C heat in the middle of nowhere. After jerry-rigging a carb EA82 in and running it for about 18 months (it kept me going) I got the EJ22 sorted and swapped it in. The advantages? Many parts are interchangeable between EJ engines, fuel economy was better, more power, more reliability and no oil leaks! These days I’d drop a phase 2 EJ20 into the L if I did it again. I too was in my 20’s back then. Still got the car but I don’t drive it as much as I once did. That might change again soon. It’s got 530,000km on the body and I’ve offroaded it probably more than they were ever designed to. If keeping the EA82 is your only option, make sure you do a good job of cleaning all mating surfaces especially the ones that have three bond on them (I’m looking at you cam boxes!). This will keep the oil leaks at bay for a long time. Lastly, you cannot get itchy feet for more power with an EA82, they just aren’t built to make easy power gains other than replacing with said EJ conversion. Been done a thousand times now so it’s a proven setup. It sounds like you’ve got a good head on young shoulders. Kudos. Look after it! And hug your parents from us as Moosens kind of said Cheers Bennie

If you really love the EA82 you could have the engine sleeved. 50 thou over seems a lot. I thought 40 thou was as far as they went with new rings and pistons for the EA82. I could be wrong, I only ever rebuilt one before I really learned about them. Cheers Bennie

I’m in it too. I’ve picked up a few cheap Subaru projects. They get chipped away at when I can and when parts become available. Currently I’ve got my Targa Brumby (that’s what we call them over here!) that’s on the road. 2 RS turbo Libertys (Gen1) - one complete, one in pieces that I’m working on. Neither on the road. Both picked up cheap (not cheap now!). And a 1985 stamped EA81 MY wagon that I rescued from a wreckers yard where it was destined to be crushed. Its power steering rack was the reason why I found it. That went to a good cause. Anyway, side tracked there. Lastly, my offroad L series. Still registered but needs some work to bring her back to her former glory. All up these vehicles cost me $7500 to purchase. The Brumby, MY wagon and L series were all $500 specials! So I’m definitely in the thrifty category! Cheers Bennie

What other option is there? Throw in the unknown box and send it as you say. It’ll either work as it should or it won’t! Otherwise you have potentially three paperweights sitting around… Cheers Bennie

The VT commodore had a vacuum actuated tap from memory. That might work ok. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/401549783595?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGSPBTEP9B9113TB8G&hash=item5d7e3b722b:g:OnkAAeSwpRRoGwiv&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eJINj5jgQt19ervaLpB6mTJVlbBUu4vglR9vmIgxvxhRqvEnQJ9doxy%2BZktYtxQqsZbJrKIht9otsWH84id9755%2BIn4cypkZl27%2FKDjPv%2BOsNEZ56AEsLRJhfG4c2ur2ajr7zjHFcU5JxN%2FWNrtoG2K1ptrcQU37fJiCbGw0K2Fo8C6CPpRgnrpt0Z5HDKMS%2FsRHx7x2D1HmCQYm5cwboEgRKEm%2FAyJisAIvLqnBIPF9%2FBi%2FMeZ4G5Ee8S1CnZI%2Bp21AmT9uMJ3RwDd4tUUigpFT6ya35g5u%2B4YLFI1ivSog%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Or if you can find one from a Brat era EA81 they have a cable operated tap that’s a bypass setup rather than just a tap. There’s this one that popped up in my search for something else. It’s like the best setup but vacuum operated much like the VT unit, except it’s a bypass: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/113243302295?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGGHWS4HTZR14X1VKH&hash=item1a5dd3a997:g:WhcAAOSwDMNkGQe4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eL7rKl%2F2ljcIXVOOnL54JOwJ%2BUR2fbUufq%2FoaM9p7nLt85Zdd7srrSorj2BIUWgGYmb4Flk3R2uJRBAkQEtJbW%2FWyIGJoKk5hAQAJ15GBRPSVynDiwwJynUYCg83YGr%2BVPLXw3%2B7y1dsD%2BgxvfWL1RMtnFO9t0ly%2BeOt6vf2XdZjwrywR65%2BQRM6AVvBIzW6CMz8caCR3ZoI%2BBQFqFxb%2BFGy%2BT5X7AQDUVNFYSSZWq%2FU9FNhnNNkFfbK1C0qWh7oYEypRNfLV%2F2X8DJCDQK7jboTUHKNl1yQIRfpYTUXyJCQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Damn I hate these eBay link addresses! Cheers Bennie

If you’re pulling the synchros out you might as well get them bead blasted and put them back in. This will be your issue - the synchros are worn out and smooth so they no longer grab to match the gearset speeds with the engagement hub. Rough them up and they should work properly again. Gearbox work can get tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing - but as always, the best way is to learn! Just have a back up plan if the rebuild doesn’t go as planned. Cheers Bennie

I’ve got rear discs on both my Brumby and L series without changing the standard system other than braided brake lines. The brumby is by far the vehicle with the best brakes now! The L series needs new rotors or pads after sitting around for a few years, plus it runs 27 inch diametre tyres so that takes some of the punch out of the brakes. If you’re running the old rubber hoses I highly recommend replacing them at the very least with new rubber hoses. Best upgrade is the braided. I had a kit for the brumby from an ADR approved kit from eBay that did all the stock hoses then the flexible line to the rear caliper made up by a local brake and clutch specialist to finish off the complete system. The important thing is that your fronts lock up before the rear. If you’re locking the rear up before the front I’d recommend overhauling the front brakes then looking into the front/rear brake bias if the issue persists. It’s down right dangerous to have the rear brakes lock up before the front. Cheers Bennie

And even easier if the OP is going to remove the heads. @4wdHonky- if you have a bottom end bearing issue you could swap the NA block in for the turbo one AND swap the turbo pistons in at the same time. The bottom ends are all the same, just the pistons are different for lower compression partly due to lower grade fuels and crappy tuning in the 80’s and partly for boost being applied. Personally I’d try to keep the stock turbo engine running as it is if there aren’t any other issues other than the spark plug hole. Cheers Bennie

The fuel pressure regulator is responsible for the fuel pressure. Those stats on the pump just say what it’s capable of. The fuel pressure regulator will monitor the pressure correctly as it falls within the range on the pump’s details. I’d run that pump. Cheers Bennie

A brake place worth their weight will be able to re-sleeve and service the MC so it’s as good as new. Cheers Bennie

Awesome pics and trip report as usual Todd. I reckon my favourite pic is the one you walked in for - with the two big rocky outcrops that made a saddle and the sunset in the background; the vegetation on either side of the pic give us a nice amount of colour to balance it out. Mint! Cheers Bennie

Was the torque converter properly seated before the engine was refitted? Cheers Bennie

Nah I wouldn’t touch that as it’s got the EJ25D. Smooth engine when it’s operating properly, nasty head gasket which started the whole EJ25 reputation of having forever headgasket issues. Nice looking vehicle, I’d recommend having a game plan for when that EJ25D gives you issues. STi conversion been done many times before, great candidate for it Cheers Bennie

Good effort there mate!