Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

el_freddo

Members
  • Content count

    1328
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

el_freddo last won the day on November 28

el_freddo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

236 Excellent

1 Follower

About el_freddo

  • Rank
    Eat, Live, Breath Subaru
  • Birthday 07/16/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Bendigo, Vic, Aust.
  • Interests
    Subaru's, tinkering/fixing things - especially love pulling things to bits then trying to put them back together :D
  • Occupation
    Teacher
  • Biography
    Two eyes, nose, mouth... The usual...
  • Vehicles
    '88 L wagon '91 brumby, 93 RS wag

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Tried cleaning/replacing the main power relay? In that model I’m not sure what colour it is or where it’s located, but on the Gen1s it was a brown relay. That could be the issue. Or check your fusible links/slow burn fuses. Cheers Bennie
  2. Depending on what gen that ej22 came from (‘95 could be Gen1 or Gen2 over there for all I know) can determine exactly what noise it is. The Gen1 engine had HVLAs - small but heaps better than the EA82 monstrosities! These can tick from time to time and on my Gen1 EJ22 in the L series this tick on early start up indicates either oil is very cold and taking its time to pressure up to the HVLAs or that my oil level is low. The Gen2 engines use a form of roller rockers and from my understanding won’t tick as a result. But this engine is an interference engine. Gen1 is not Cheers Bennie
  3. Further to this, all travelled the same distance, meaning when it’s time for tyres, replace ALL FOUR. Do not do the replace two, put the best two on the rear trick that you can do with 2wd vehicles. Cheers Bennie
  4. Ah that strip, not the rubber door/window weather seal? Thats pretty normal. It’s becoming hard to find good windows to tint due to these scratches! Cheers Bennie
  5. Second hand would be your best bet. Plus tint should be trimmed about 5mm from the edge of the window for best durability. Cheers Bennie
  6. Driver’s side over there. Get down low to be able to see it. Have a torch or phone torch on hand to help out. There is a dot in the middle of the sight glass where the fuel level should be. Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo

    Rear main oil seal tool idea

    Yeah I’m not sure Jono is allowed in the local Bunnings anymore - he gets too many crazy ideas while he’s there! Cheers Bennie
  8. Be aware that if the module or spark dies completely and won’t intermittently run it means you have a dead coil AND and dead module. DO NOT replace the module without replacing the coil first. A dead coil will instantly kill a new module. Ask me how I know... Cheers Bennie
  9. Dizzy ignition module or a lot of shaft play that’s not allowing the module to detect the trigger wheel or the points to open sufficiently as required. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie
  10. That looks like it. Cheers Bennie
  11. You can remove the glovebox then the fan to get at the ducting. If you have AC you won’t get very far and that’s not removable without pulling that system and possibly the dash out in the process. Cheers Bennie
  12. This is the “toilet bowl” gasket: As you can see the gasket isn’t sitting right. On the underside of the throttle body there’s a groove this O ring style gasket sits in, mine doesn’t really sit as it should. I’m not after new nuts - I got the manifold separate to the rest of the kit so any extra weight was stripped off for the international shipping. I’ve just let this part of the project slide atm. As for after market dizzy, no idea there sorry! Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo

    Subaru brat 4wd limitations

    Probably minutes to that speed when in low range. When in 4wd normal highway speeds should be achievable. But only do this in the wet otherwise you could break something in the 4wd drive train taking an intersection. Cheers Bennie
  14. @Subuhrue - I’ll be checking in don’t stress about that! I’ve got my main wiring loom installed after checking a few wires that didn’t marry up on their labels compared to the wiring diagram. Ecu is going into the glove box (right hand drive so this works well). I’ve got my inlet manifold gaskets, O2 sensor and everything else I need including an already modified dizzy with the EA81 drive gear fitted. What I feel I need is that toilet bowl gasket. Mine is enlarged. If you happen to find one can you grab me one as well and I’ll sort something out with you? I also need to source some nuts to fit the throttle body back onto the intake and get a thermostat housing (at m&d’s an hr away). Then it’s a case of putting it all in, fitting efi rated flexible fuel hose, O2 sensor and see if she’ll fire up Just have to see out the end of the school year first and get a few other projects out of the way... it never ends! Cheers Bennie
×