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6 Star

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6 Star last won the day on April 15 2015

6 Star had the most liked content!

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About 6 Star

  • Rank
    Boxer Nostalgic
  • Birthday 12/13/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Seattle, WA
  • Interests
    Snowboarding, Cars, Videogames, Art
  • Occupation
    Airport Ramper
  • Biography
    Been into Subarus since I was about 16. Proud owner of the STI's great-grandparents.
  • Vehicles
    1986 GL Wagon, 1985 Brat, 1990 CRX Si
  1. Overdue update. The new cable has since been put on the Brat and it is working great. The new cable easily slid through its housing when pulled on, simulating operation. The old cables were stiff in comparison... however the almost broken cable was what got me to the Dealer and back. It was a nail-biter, not sure when the last clutch-throw would be, and trying to use the clutch as little as possible, but it made it fine and probably would have held out for a while longer. But the new cable is so much nicer and the peace of mind as well.
  2. Yeah, I couldn't help but laugh a little when I saw the part numbers are literally one-off from each other. Good old Fuji...
  3. I've had our Dalmation ride shotgun in the Brat with me before. She sat up the whole time, she was younger then, I don't think she would tolerate it now. Her favorite seat has always been the bench in the EA82 wagons.
  4. Thanks for the reply GD. Gave Lithia Subaru a call and Matt answered, he said the part number for a '82 GL Brat Clutch Cable is 737026032. Ordered through my local dealer, in 3-4 business days the Brat should be back in business.
  5. Bringing back this old thread from the dead. The year is now 2018, and our EA81's are older than ever. The Subaru Dealer's computer database now only goes back to 1986. Anything older and they have to bring out the paper-book-catalogue of part numbers. Anyway, my clutch cable broke on my '82 GL Brat. Same problem as the O.P.... Broke right at the sleeve-bracket-washer that holds the cable-housing from moving, close to the pedal-end. Looks to be made of pot-metal. I went to take the clutch cable off of the parts Brat, and it isn't far off from breaking also. Seems to be the achilles heel of the clutch cable assembly, the cable and housing all look to be fine, it is just that integrated metal bracket-washer that broke. Called the Renton dealership, and the dude working there said they threw out that old catalogue of part numbers! Why would they do such a thing?! Called the Auburn dealership, they still have their's, but he gave me the part number 737026033... investigating this number shows that it is for a EA82 body. Does anybody have the Subaru Part Number for an '82 GL Clutch Cable?? If I can't get a Subaru one, I may have to go Rock Auto or Autozone. Thanks for reading.
  6. 6 Star

    84 GL major malfunction

    Just to emphasize on the "wiggling" that is to be done removing the oil pump. Do NOT wiggle the oil pump front to back, or side to side, or up or down. Rotate the oil pump, clockwise and counterclockwise while pulling outward on the pump gently. The pump's mating surface that slips into the block is perfectly round.
  7. Update I tested that ground for the Tail Light harness, under the right rear bed kick panel. I disconnected it and cycled through the brakes and signals as before. Having the ground disconnected changed nothing! So I put a new connector on the end of the ground and put her back on... Still no change. Then I noticed a relay dangling down from above the fuse box in the cab. There are two identical looking round, two prong relays in these Brats, according to the Haynes '80-'88 Workshop Manual, Fig. 10.40 1982/1983 North American models. The one on the left is the Hazard Unit, BLK/WHT & GRN/YLW with Pink Connector The one on the right is the Turn Signal Unit, GRN/WHT & BLU/WHT with White Connector The one hanging down I noticed is the right, Turn Signal relay. I unplugged this turn signal relay, and then cycled through the brakes and lights again. Having the Turn Signal relay disconnected changed nothing! Haha! I then pilfered another Signal relay from another Brat I have, and plugged that in. As soon as the connection is made, the relays start clicking, as if I had the turn signals on, which I did not, the ignition was also in the full off position. Not only that, but I hear the fuel pump cycling in unison with the turn relays! Neither the turn arrows on the dash or signals are blinking with this rhythm, they just stay off. At this point, I had to start the Brat so that I wouldn't flood the carb and drain the battery. With this new relay and paranormal activity happening, I tested the signals and brakes again. I turned on the Hazards, and they flashed as normal except that the "Stop Lamp" light flashed with them. Turned on the Left and Right signals one at a time, they both stayed on solid instead of flashing, and the left signal still had the "Stop Lamp" buddy along with him solid. I then tried the brakes and signals, the right signal would just stay solid as before with the brakes lit up as well. The left signal with the brakes would light up the reverse and brake light solid, and not the rear signal. The hazards with the brakes would cycle the brake and reverse light on the rear left side and the signals on all other corners. Another thing I realized that I never noticed on the initial tests: When the reverse light is being flashed in alternation with the left brake light as a turn signal; both reverse lights flash! I only ever noticed the left side alternating, and not the right side reverse light flashing along with it. Haha So it seems I must dig... a little deeper.
  8. Thanks for the reply Tom, I did see a ground connected last time I had that right taillight off. However I didn't check for corrosion, but the ground itself was not loose when I wiggled it. I will have to check that out again and make sure the ground is solid.
  9. I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere...
  10. Just recently I ordered the WK730 Kit for an EA81 through Ebay. Turns out it was not a Redline kit, as I originally thought, but was from webercarbsdirect.com. When I got the box home in the mail, my first impression was of the cheesy paper-graphic; taped onto the box with Weber-colored yellow, orange and red tape. As I'm opening the box, I'm thinking to myself, "Was it cheaper for a reason?" I take out the Airfilter/Tin and the tin doesn't look right, plus it has what looks to be a homemade sticker with the Weber W and says *Made In Taiwan*. Clouds of doubt moving in, I unwrap the carb itself and it looks very shiny, like a different metal from the Redline 32/36 I ordered for my EA82 a while back. Nowhere on the carb is there a stamp with the name Weber, in fact, there are no marks of information of any kind on the carb. On the top of the carb where the W with Weber is usually spelled out, there is just a red W sticker. At this point I know something is amiss. It looks just like a Weber 32/36, but there's no way it is legit. Weber stamps their name all over their carbs. I figure since I have it here in my hands, I might as well check it out and see if it is even worth spending the time to put it in the car. It looks like it would do the job, after all. I go to turn the throttle lever to see if the linkages etc all move as they should... The Primary begins to open, wider, wider, just when the secondary is supposed to engage, the throttle lever will turn no more. The secondary is stuck! The only way to further turn the throttle and engage the secondary, eventually achieving WOT, was to poke at the butterfly; jiggling it enough to unhitch itself. Obviously this can't be done in the car while driving, unless you master some kind of fancy flick with your gas pedal or something. Basically, I had a replica, Interco carb that was only a single barrel. That carb got put back in the box and shipped back to the seller within the hour. Then I ordered the same EA81 kit, this time through the seller I bought my EA82 kit from; allautomotive. Here is some stuff I dug up when I researched a bit: datsunaholic says; "Legally, that is a Weber. Due to some very weird licensing agreements Weber of Italy whored out their brand and logo to a US company that imports Chinese clones, slaps a sticker on them, and calls them Webers. And it's all legal. But they aren't the European-made Webers. Weber itself stopped making carbs in 1992, when production was moved to Spain. The production was farmed out to a 3rd party, but using the Weber-owned tooling. But in 2004, that company went on strike, and all carb production stopped for a full year. The production resumed with a different company in the same factory in late 2005, but the damage was done- for a full year no one, including Redline, could get true European carbs. The other distributors went to Weber North America, who simply farmed out the production using their brand license to whatever company could make them quickly. They were already using the Solex tooling (Solex now being owned by the same parent company as Weber) for the 34DGEC which was close (but not identical to) a 32/36, so they just reverse engineered the 32/36 and 38 and started making them in China. Since the Chinese are very, very good at making knockoffs (with some severe quality control issues in some cases) once the tooling was there, the EMPI clones started showing up too, though they're at least branded as EMPI and not Webers. It may work fine. I have one of the original Interco carbs and haven't had any trouble with it. It's probably one of the South American ones, though, being I've had it since around 2004. " I believe the Solex they are talking about is the even cheaper version than the Interco carbs we recieved. It is identifiable by its oval shaped top, triangular electric choke cover, and straight-angled fuel inlets and outlets. Figured I would commiserate with you and share what I've learned.
  11. Today I went to a junkyard that had a 3 door coupe being parted out. Too bad the moldings on both sides were already removed by the time I arrived. I did score the grill, rear bench, and the driver's seatbelt though. When I looked inside the cab, whoever was there first took out all the plastics around the headliner. It looked like there was access to the back side of these moldings, some slits in the metal where the plastic tabs would come though. But, since the moldings were already gone, I didn't inspect very hard, plus it was only at a glance while removing my interior pieces. Perhaps I should just glue the broken piece back on. When held up in place by hand it looks practically seamless.
  12. The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time.
  13. It turned out that the simplest possible solution was the answer, both horns themselves had gone bad. But I got to test out my steering wheel puller, because I'm a glutton for not starting with the simple solutions. I discovered that the bolts that came with the puller kit would not fit the threads in the steering wheel. However, trusty Subaru, the intake manifold bolts for the EA82 were a perfect fit. In this pic the wheel had just popped free from the spline. So after finding that all was right in the wheel, I switched horns with some from the parts stash. I have horns again! Thank you all again for replying!
  14. They're still the o.g horns as far as I know. That is something I haven't looked at yet. I do happen to have a steering wheel puller. "Horn broke, watch for finger." Alas the finger sometimes does the opposite of making people move. I was probing around to most of the metal in the wheel, I cannot remember if I touched the very center. The button on the pad does make contact, I was playing with it and making a *ting*ting* metal on metal noise. I do have a multimeter, I will have to dig around with it and see what kind of power I get to the horns themselves. I will also check the hub to column contact if the meter turns up nothing. Thank you for all of the replies!
  15. The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.
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