Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'ea71'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Occupation


Ezboard Name


Referral


Biography


Vehicles

Found 28 results

  1. Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?
  2. Recently purchased an '86 Subaru Standard, my first FWD Subaru. Started contemplating a 4WD conversion, have a rusty Brat that would be a perfect donor... so I thought. This is why I will always return to this forum for research: Through searching this forum I learned that the 4wd hatch gas tank is 4wd hatch specific, the Brat tank would not work. There are ways around this using the fwd tank, but only if you lift the car considerably. I wish to keep the car more or less stock height. Also the driveline to the rear diff is different, the hatch has the shortest wheelbase of the ea81 models. Thats a no-fit for the Brat driveline. Plus the locations for the mustache hanger and center carrier bearing are not "there" on fwd models... would have to drill and tap locations for the bolts or have them protruding into the passenger compartment. And have read that the trans tunnel is shaped differently, and could need some massaging. Even after that the shift boots will most likely not have a great fit. It would be great with 4WD, but like wise people say on here; unless you are a masochist, leave it be and find one that is already 4WD. I will let it stay a gas sipper. Have heard mention that the "fat case" ea71's that come in this model are somewhat rare. Wonder if they are more similar to the ea81 than earlier ea71's. Thanks again USMB for the great info.
  3. Government_Bacon

    Ea71 torque specs

    Im looking for all of the bolt torque specs for a ea71 engine
  4. five! (5) OEM 1977 Subaru Coupe 4x140 Steel wheels, First gen ( EA71 ) 4.5" backspacing harder to find smoother steel pattern. 4 are 175 70 13 Toyo Eclipse All Season tires, Spare painted flat black, 155 85 13 Toyo Eclipse, matched tread spare. All have Very good tread, see pictures. 250 OrBestOffer, Located in Sandpoint, ID. Discount for forum members, better discount if you want them for a coupe. https://spokane.craigslist.org/wto/d/5-subaru-wheels175-70r13-toyos/6338105085.html
  5. Long post, but bit of explanation is needed. I have spent a couple weeks searching the forum, a lot of good info, a fair amount on the EA81, but not a lot for the 71. Most of the post are old enough that the photos are no longer there. Basically what it comes down to is I have an axle failing, and a parts car that I can still buy axles for. I have already swapped the rear over, and am now working on the front, but the suspension geometry has me a bit lost, mostly the strut tops, and wheel centering in well. I am lifting about 3 inches, already have 2 at the crossmember, and want to do 3 at the coil. On the EA81, when lifting, the strut tops move inboard as they go down, Do I need to compensate for this on the EA82 struts as well? If so, how much? I want to use the EA82 axles, I have the transaxle to go in, so splines/ratios are not the concern, but I need to move the lower arm out for length. I am thinking I can cut the 82 near the radius rod, and then drill/reinforce and use the 3 mounting holes that already exist on the EA71, thus avoiding much radius movement, or messing with the whole lower arm, Has anyone done that method? If so, how does it line up, or should I angle the last bit to compensate for wheel center? (#1 in Pics) It appears as thought the ends of the steering use the same rod, and therefore I can use the EA82 end, which is almost the exact length needed to fit the longer axle without toe issues, Is that correct? Or will I still need to add additional length other than the curved steering ends? (#2 in Pics) Thank you in advance, really need some confirmation before I screw with it much more. -Charlie
  6. New here, hope this post fits guidelines! I recently inherited a 1980 4x4 Brat and I'm at a loss as to what to do with it. I've tinkered in the past but this will be my first ever full project and I'm hoping to get some suggestions/feedback from anyone who has taken on an older Subaru! Some info: EA71 had 80k OG miles and was recently resealed by a friend of mine. Currently runs and drives no problem. Rust isn't too bad, currently grinding out All original glass and body All interior stripped - still have but thinking about spraying bed liner on floor Missing door cards Dash is cracked but not the worst looking Have OG seats but badly need re-upholseting Pics here Willing to put about $5k into it immediately, $10k tops - what's your take?
  7. Hello everyone! This 78 Brat came to me a few years ago and I have slowly been getting it back on the road. Here is the story behind my new car. Sometime in 2013 my grandma was willed this car from a cousin of hers. It was bought off of the showroom floor in Denver Colorado in 1977. She drove it every day until she bought her 92 Legacy and garaged the Brat. My grandma gave the Brat to my cousin and he put about $400 into it to try and get it running. He had the carb rebuilt, new water pump, new alternator, new fuel pump. He couldn't get it running right so he sold it to me for the $400 he had into it. I put a clutch in and drove it for about two weeks when the head gaskets blew. My dad called an old friend in Brook Forest near Evergreen CO who has a ton of Subarus and parts looking for a new engine. Turns out that Bob had an EA71 he was willing to part with so we drove up there and got the engine. The good news is that the engine only cost the fuel it took to drive up there and get it. The bad new is that the engine was the wrong EA71. I took the engine and called Roo's Only to see if they would do the swap and they referred me to S Wing's. The guy at S Wings is an interesting fellow. After a year or so of talking with him I decided to rebuild the original engine and go from there. I took the car to Colorado Component Rebuilder last June. It was one of the last engines they did before closing their doors. In fact they closed the doors while they still had my car. After CCR did the rebuild I took it to the family mechanic. He did the rear end, fixed the linkage, some electrical, new gas pedal, new gas cap, brakes, and quite a few other odds and ends. He could not get the carb tuned right so we decided to go with a Webber. The Webber went in, tuned it up, and it passed emissions and I got the 5 year collector plates. So after all of this I finally drove the Brat back to my place in Gig Harbor WA. I left Colorado the day before yesterday and I got home last night. Along the way I discovered that I am losing quite a bit of oil from the transmission and the carburetor started acting up. I was stopping about every 100 miles and checking fluids. It seemed that I was losing the most fluid after hill climbs or long stretches of highway speeds. City driving and slower (55-65) highway speeds seemed to have lost little to no oil. I believe this to be the input shaft seal. I planned on re jetting the carb after moving it to sea level but what is happening now is the throttle is sticking. I believe it to be the electronic choke sticking on. Once i reach a high enough RPM it backs down, so if it starts running away pressing the clutch lets it rev and then drop. Well that is the story of my Brat. I have been lurking on this site for a few years now and I have done quite a bit of research on the 78 Brat. I know that there is not much you can do to "supe" up the car/engine and I love the original look and feel of the car. My plan is to do a complete restore to stock. Stock parts that is. I want to change the paint and interior colors. I am also planning on modernizing the car as much as I can to make it as comfortable of a ride as possible, Suspension, electrical, brakes. I have all of the original parts that came with the car and I will be keeping anything that gets changed (carb for example). I will be sharing pictures as I progress but I plan on getting the work done as soon as possible as this will be my daily driver around Tacoma/Seattle. If anyone can offer some advice to the issues that I am having as well as a good shop to get in touch with that could do some of the work for me. Thanks guys!
  8. I have a 78 Subaru brat which I'm trying to make a full race truck out of I ideally want to have a awe set up pushing 200-400bhp to the wheels I want to put a sit but I believe it is to wide please help any suggestions are welcome as long as it's not fwd
  9. Hope I am posting this in the right area, I got a little confused with the marketplace, long time lurker here, rarely a poster... I am in Sandpoint, ID I need to sell my brats, and their related parts. My health is deteriorating, and this is now to big of a task for me. I had intended to pull the front from the silver one, and put it on the blue one and have a conplete, titled, brat, but I can no longer. Blue one has front damage, does not go past crossmember mount on the frame, silver has a rear panel cut out, but a good front. Also comes with 92 Wagon Shell, fuel injection harness and parts, no engine or trans, with interior, and title. Many hard to find parts, front adjustable struts, fancy chrome side bars, fwd rear arm assemblies, some jump seat parts, carbs, linkage, exhaust, switches, knobs, grilles, badging, alternators, air cleaners (both styles), rear window options, And more. There are even some random Chevy sbc parts included, because they are in the way. Does not come with engine and transmission, unless you talk real nice, and are pretty dang close to my asking price. Please don't ask for parts, I need to get it gone. I went and took pictures of what people were looking for on here, should be on the advert on CL shortly. Thank you, https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/6117458598.html $1000 or Best Offer, worst I can do is say No. -Charlie
  10. So I pulled my E-A71 to reseal it. Put the engine back in and it starts right up. I take it for a test drive it will only go half throttle then starts to bog down so I let off and stay below that point and it coughs then shuts off and will not start again. I have replaced the spark plugs/wires and coil but it still has no spark i have tested the distributor and pickup. I have tested all the wires in between and everything seems to be as it should but im at a loss as to why it just stopped and everything else seems to be working properly.
  11. I have a 1980 BRAT with the stock EA71 engine and 4spd trans with stock carb. For now I am looking at just swapping to a EA82 d/r 5 speed an rear diff someday im looking to swap to an EJ22 but I can't find information on if that will even work in my year I am only seeing EJ swaps in 2nd gen BRATs The main thing I am looking for currently is will a EA82 d/r 5 speed fit the engine or will I need adapter plates and different bell housings and what am i looking at for swapping in the rear EA82 diff or should I buy a newer BRAT if I want to change things
  12. I found these on ebay and they fit perfect. All i did was clean out the metal seal rails with a small flat head, cut the seals to length, then worked them in with the rounded edge of a pick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Metro-Quarter-Window-Glass-Seal-Insert-VS3/391537716170?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38618%26meid%3Df40e18573b3e4b399d840be2d82131a2%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D16%26sd%3D391524456322
  13. hey cleaned engine and and replaced all gaskets but now my fuel pump doesnt work and distr. is not getting spark. what did i do?
  14. monkbonk

    EA71 to VW Trans Adapter

    I've been trying to find some info on EA71 swapped VW's. Not a lot coming up, but there was a Brazilian abomination of sorts EA71 powered Bay Window. I am looking to source a transmission adapter for, say, an air cooled VW Beetle 4speed manual to start. I found an Aussie site, Volks Conversions, that listed one. Contacted them, awaiting reply. Does anyone know of any old build threads on here that I could peruse? Search won't let me look for EA71 stuff as the boolean string is too small.
  15. Hi folks, I just took my 1980 Brat in for a safety inspection (part of the process of importing it into Canada). I was told that my front passenger control arm is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm hoping for a second opinion as my understanding is that I just needed to replace the inner tie rod. Two questions: 1) What should I look for to determine if the control arm is shot (it's a Nevada car, rust free and in good shape - just drove across the country) 2) Where could I find a control arm if need be? I've emailed Mountain Tech Subaru and I'm waiting to hear back. This is somewhat time sensitive as I've got about 30 days to complete the importation, though I'm sure I could figure out an extension if need be. Thanks as always, look forward to hearing your advice!
  16. Greetings, This time I am trying to do my Best to help a Friend, Mr. Mariano, who owns a 1980 Subaru GFT-5 Coupé, which came factory with an EA71 engine that features Twin Hitachi carburator setup. Here is a Photo of his Subie: Here's a Photo of that Subie's Engine Bay: Photos of the Actual factory intake manifold: He is in the middle of the Restoration process of that Subaru, and he really wants to get rid of those hitachi craps that seems like now they're bad beyond any repair, he dreams about to obtain a single carb intake manifold that fits his Subie's engine and fit there a Weber Carb. He already obtained a 32/36 Weber and the Trans-Dapt 2107 adaptor, also he obtained a Single carb intake that was sold to him as "For the Subaru 1600" which is the EA71, but the intake was longer, so we believe it was for the EA81 ... and he already welded with aluminium the Trans-Dapt adaptor to that unuseful -for him- intake manifold, as you can see... By seeing this Photos and seeing the Position of the Starter behind the engine, on a side, I want to Ask (To be sure): ► is that a Fat Case EA71, isn't it? ► Does the Twin Carb EA71's comes with Reversed Valves as the Twin Carbs EA81's does? Here is a Photo of his Original Owner's Manual about the Valves (in Spanish): Words in spanish over the Valve's drawing means: "Exhaust Valves" while words in spanish under same drawing says "Intake Valves". The main Question could be: ► Will a Single Carb EA71 intake manifold fit right to this engine, or not? Due to the Lack of Spare parts, we were crossing Private Messages, planning to cut the Upper part of the EA81 intake, along the welded adaptor, and cut the upper part of the Twin Carb EA71 intake, and weld the EA81 part to the Twin carb EA71 one, without touching the Water passage... Sounds crazy enough, isn't it? Please let us Know your Ideas about that, and the Answers to our Questions, which will be Greatly appreciated. Kind regards.
  17. Spotted a white 1st gen legacy going through Sandy Oregon today with a factory 1st or 2nd gen factory winch bumper on it. I was to slow to catch up to it since the light turned red, plus i needed to go to dmv to get plates for my brat. If any body knows whose it is let me know or if you see it get their number for me i want to buy the winch bumper.
  18. Hello again everyone! I've been spending some time around the interent this evening, attempting to locate the size or dimensions on the EA71 engine in the First-Gen Subaru Brat, and/or the size/dimensions of the engine bay. I'd of course measure it myself, but my '78 is currently a few towns over, waiting in my Aunt's yard, until I can get my new home/garage cleared up. Height from engine-mounts to hood, inner fender to inner fender, firewall to radiator mount. Basically to see what the options are for engine sizes sans modification. ~stayDOOGAN On a side-note, my search for interesting tid-bits tonight has borne fruit on a few sweet articles and items. Of few of them are... New Chevy LTG, avail in 2015. http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/ltg-four-cylinder.html and also... Old-School MotorWeek review of the Second-Gen BRAT.
  19. 19804wdPOS

    turbo ea71?

    Is it possible to build a turbo motor(120hp) on a stock 4wd transmission?
  20. I need a complete electronic distributor for an EA71 and a transistor box as well
  21. Hello all ... im rebuilding 1983DL with stock engine EA71 . i have an electric distributor , everything else is stock. does anybody know if i can plant the "ef" fuel injection on it ? or should i use another cam. with another carb to get more power of this engine?
  22. Hey guys I want to build up a brat with a swapped ej22 turbo as a rally racer but was wondering how well they hold up and if the hatch or the wagon or anything i'm forgetting would be a better option. Also i just want to hear everyone's opinions.
  23. Hey I'm selling or parting out my gen 1 BRAT. Add explains all. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4304702483.html
  24. Just rebuilt my lower half of the engine and I foregot to mark my vaccum lines and I think some were off to begin with. Anyone have a diagram they can post to help me out. I have 1.6 l 1980 Brat. Thanks.
  25. Twitch de la Brat

    EA71 Pistons

    Looking for new/nearly new EA71 pistons for a high comp EA81 build. And finding these little buggers is proving to difficult. Not more than I anticipated, but still tough. I can get ring sets all day long, but the pistons themselves are tougher finds. I'd go to a wrecking yard and get some, but with as much strain as they'll be under, I don't want to toss something in there that may have issues. Because pulling this motor back apart may not be an option for some time. And it'll be dealing with me trying to tune it and figure out what octane it'll take it to prevent ping... Anyway, anyone got any to sell? I've got cash and am willing to deal. Twitch PS: OEM Part number is 380050100 if anyone was wondering
×