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charles_thomas last won the day on September 30 2018

charles_thomas had the most liked content!

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About charles_thomas

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 02/14/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sandpoint, ID
  • Occupation
    US Navy Retired
  • Ezboard Name
  • Vehicles
    1977 DL Coupe, 1980 Brat

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  1. charles_thomas

    Hitachi Carburetor alternatives

    It just might. Somewhere on this site... Although A quick search didn't yield it, Is a blurb about using either an old datsun or nissan adapter for the EA82. It is a slightly taller Single piece adapter. It is very possible that there is another one for the EA81. So do your own research and let us all know if you found another workaround. Despite some members insistence things don't exist, this board finds a whole bunch of work-around and replacement parts off other engines. For example, the smaller stock weber of the late 70's fiat is a bolt on to the EA82, but no-one really seems to bring it up as an option. So- First find the base plate bolt spacing dimensions for the carb you want to use, and the ea81 and see if they are the same. Second thing to look for is the tilt. Subaru manifolds sit level on top of the engine, which means the adapter needs to be pretty close to level as well. Some of the inline engines use a tilted back manifold, it will often cause fuel float issues to run that adapter on the subaru. Good luck, do please keep us informed. -Charles
  2. I use NiCop in all of my vehicles as well. Won't burst, won't rust, easy to bend and the cost is not much more than steel. The only thing to be wary of via Amazon, is the lines that say they are Nickel Copper, but are either coated steel, or all copper. Usually I pay the slightly higher price to be able to touch it before purchase, but that is just a personal preference.
  3. The dudes are right, 250hp for low budget on a smaller displacement engine is near impossible. Usually requires advanced knowledge of tricks and techniques to make it happen. It frequently results in a severely shortened engine life. If many swaps is your cup-o-tea, go for it. Worst you can do is waste money and blow up engines? Idk...not my cup. I installed an '02 EZ3.0 in a '77, with thebone stock Ecu, and a '92 Loyale trans. 215hp overnight... Well, over 2 weeks. Anything can be done if you are willing to do the research into what it will take. My total cost into the build thus far is just shy of $1500, including the engine and tires. Engine came from pull and save, for a whopping $200. She runs, drives, and has a few thousand miles on it now, including one 1000 mile trip. That being said, I AM a mechanic. If I was to do that for anyone else, it would be astronomically expensive, primarily due to the labor cost, time is money and the research into it was extensive. A 96 body will fit an EZ30, and will bolt to the trans. You said you did the clutch, if you have, then you know how to pull the engine. Procedure is *almost* the same for the physical engine swap. Would need to switch the radiator, which is a bolt in, and have the exhaust mated to the new engine. And... iMO - Your Primary issue is Wiring. The EZ30 runs a different (although physically similar) ECU. It has more wires coming from the engine, because more cylinders and more sensors, which means everywhere the wires run between the ECU and engine (dash, bulkhead, footwell, etc) is also different. To make it work you need to either swap the whole harness, Pay to have someone else do a harness merge, or do a LOT of research, pull out a multimeter, and do it yourself. Its a learning process, and most people quit because they didn't take the time to learn first. I am a dumb carb guy. I knew nothing about ECU wiring when I started. If I made it work, so can anyone. There are many good writeups on that swap, and if you are willing to do all the legwork yourself to find the wiring diagrams, learn about them, and then replace the right wires then you can do it. There is no reason it HAS to be expensive, but you really need to look up everyone's experience. Take good notes of what went wrong for them, and how they fixed issues that will bite you in the wallet. I spent 3 weeks reading every ez swap I could find just so I wouldn't have any issues on my daily when I did the swap. It worked. No codes, no horrible failures, just some cooling kinks from cheaping out on pipe clamps. BUT it's done for less than what most people pay for their engine alone. So decide what you want to do, then to heck with peoples opinions of the idea, get out there, learn what you need to know, then a whole bunch of extra, and make it happen. Sry for novel.
  4. charles_thomas

    EA to EJ swap fuel pump

    Yes and no. It does fit up front but it seems to run better if you place it Inline, closer to the tank. I am ruuning in a brat with a custom tank in the bed, and a coupe, which have the tank behind the rear seat. Pulling from under the hood worked, but seemed to get a little warm under the extra pull. I placed it under the seat area on the frame Under the floor, works perfect.
  5. charles_thomas

    EA to EJ swap fuel pump

    +1 for carter. Did the same thing, ended with same result. The Carters actually have higher flow and pressure than required. I purchased a non-carter 'OEM replacement' pump off Amazon for $45, runs my EZ30 no problem. The fuel return line takes the excess back without issue, and because it is overpowered, should keep it (and injectors) from having to strain.
  6. charles_thomas

    '80 Wagon 4wd Engine Options?

    From what I understand the later 'fat case' EA71s with the side starter are the same bolt pattern as the EA81. The top starter (much more common) do not work with EA81 engines. Always use the flywheel that matches the trans that you choose/have.
  7. charles_thomas

    '80 Wagon 4wd Engine Options?

    My '77 coupe has an EZ30. Lots work there., But point is you really can do anything if you have some skills, time and access to metal. EA81 will drop in with relative ease. Some crossmember work, depending on trans choice. And steering clearance check. I would recommend using one for a quicker route to more acceptable 'Daily Driver' power. EA82 needs trans crossmember and engine mount hole widening. The engine will technically fit, but the front frame rails will be 'uncomfortably' close. Hitting the accelerator hard can bash the plastic timing belt guard if the mounts are not perfect... Which they are not. EA82 trans is almost guaranteed to hit the steering rag joint. With that engine getting to the distributor is a pain around the brake master cylinder. If your particular Master cylinder has the lines aiming straight down, you will have to switch it to one with them aiming to the right. Can't directly state as to the EJ, never done it. However you likely need most, if not all, of the mods required to run EA82, as they measure close in size.
  8. charles_thomas

    Springs: moog 854 or 856?

    I use an app for that literally just called "reduce photo size" It functions, nothing more nothing less.
  9. charles_thomas

    EA81 front suspension

    Those work well, if it is bouncing that far, I would lean towards checking springs as well. If you have added any weight to the front, it might be too much for the stock springs, they don't like it. One options, although it does require some small mods, (redrill tophat screw holes, mount brake cable at bottom differently) is to use ea82 front struts, they are much easier to find, and are *fairly* close in size, etc. I know you said without any mods, but it is a cheap option to consider, and a few small holes is not bad for the payout, IMO. Here is a pic, I ran them in my '78 brat that I had for quite a while. Went from ea71 style straight to ea82 struts.
  10. charles_thomas

    Right Weber for 86 Brat?

    I am currently running a Holley 5200 series, off of a Pinto. Found one on Craigslist for $20, much cheaper than weber. For most all intent and purpose, it is a Weber. Air cleaner bottom plate is slightly different, as is the fuel inlet. But the jet, valve and associated components are all weber. Seems to make Weber a bit of the Maserati of Carburetors.
  11. charles_thomas

    Springs: moog 854 or 856?

    There were two kia springs listed, I started with the softer Kia springs, they worked for daily, but they were a bit soft when off road. Then moved to the stiffer ones. They were functional, but not being progressive, I would bottom when landing a hard bump or smaller jump. Neither set squeaks or moves. The rear springs fit almost perfectly inside the stock spring perches, only had to slightly adjust the bottom of the spring. I used the ones off the rear of the same vehicle when I replaced them to have new on all 4 corners. Later, I cut them about 2inches, set so they have almost no preload, only enough to hold them in place. Work great for stiffer rebound before it bottoms. I am actually running new stock EA82 struts and tophats. It is in a 1977 coupe, so the strut top mounts and adjustments were all modified for adjustments anyway.
  12. charles_thomas

    Springs: moog 854 or 856?

    Personally, I do not like cutting springs, ride is too harsh, dampening effect suffers greatly. ended up using the Kia springs suggested as an alternative in 2.7's thread. To add a stiffer, almost progressive firmness to stronger hits, I utilized a shorter stock spring off of the EA82 rear coilovers. Works great, dampens smaller hits perfectly while not jarring my teeth out, and stiffens when hit hard to keep from bottoming out over a jump. Maybe someday, I'll even get around to cutting out the rust, ha.
  13. charles_thomas

    Right Weber for 86 Brat?

    Webers work fairly well, do some googling, there are other carbs that fit as well. Get the adapter plate that says what your engine says to the carb you buy/have.
  14. charles_thomas

    Right Weber for 86 Brat?

    The Hatch and Brat usually have the EA81. I say usually, because they can be swapped. Can be visually ID through inspection, but the easiest way to be sure when you are newer with the Subaru engines is a stamp plate on top of the engine. It will literally say "EA81" enclosed by a machined box. Standing In front of the engine bay, on top, just to the left of center. Seen in this picture as number "2" and in the picture of one of my Brat's engine bat, with arrow. All subaru engine, including current ones carry these same stamp locations.