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Found 20 results

  1. 1997 Legacy Outback Limited EJ25 5-spd 4-wheel discs 4.11:1 finals limited slips '04 Forester strut assemblies 1-1/2' lift 215/65-16's swapped a freshened-up EJ25 with 90k last summer @ ~260k mi capped and plugged everything but fuel pressure, brake booster, and PCV Y-pipe header with straight 2" flex all the way back to a single muffler. One O2 sensor. removed A/C and jumped sensors so 2nd fan runs when button is on (Assisted Cooling) Dual alternators and dual batteries, isolated systems. Starboard battery just starts the engine. The port battery is deep cycle, and runs everything in the car, as well as connecting to the solar camper to double the power bank. Overhead off-road lights wired to the former seat heater switches on the center console, roof basket, full-size spare, CB/WX radio system, bluetooth 6-speaker stereo, 10" sub behind the seat, all LED lighting, classII trailer hitch, etc... New Stuff: CV axles, driveshaft/center bearing, brake pads/parking shoes, tires, carbon clutch/flywheel set, control arms and bushings, balljoints and tie rods, strut assemblies, ignition coil/wire/plugs, batteries and all cables, all drivetrain fluids, radiator/pump/thermo, timing system/pulleys, F/R main seals, cam seals, turbo MLS head gaskets, pan gasket/pump seals, all cover gaskets, motor/trans mounts, fuel pump unit, and all belts/hoses/filters/fuses.... I Love Lucy <3
  2. This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon. ______________________________________________________________________________________ My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it ... ... The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR... This is a very old photo which I scanned: After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" and thus explains my Screen Name. That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together: Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here) the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here. Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it. I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes: ► I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes! ► I "Shaved" the Subie's Body. (Paint thread ~► Here) ► Lifted it for medium duty offroading! ► Some minor Body Design Changes, ► and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps. Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in Yellow; That was my Motivation to Change its Colour. Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread. After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: The "BUMBLE BEAST"
  3. Hey Everyone! Been a while since I've posted, I've been spending most of my time on FB, but it isn't the same. Honestly I miss "hanging out" on this forum. ANNNYWAY. I upgraded my suspension by following @Loyale 2.7 Turbo 's thread and getting a lot of help from my buddies and it's been seriously awesome. I should have done it immediately after I got the car. I've had everything on since the beginning of the Summer and about two weeks ago I noticed both inner axle boots in the back were spraying grease all over. The axles are original and I think the combination of old axle boots and my new CV angle due to the lift the new suspension gave me finally made those inner boots pop. Not a huge deal, I've already got them fixed, but I'd like to drop the rear diff 2" to prolong the life of the outer boots. There is already a bit of superficial cracking and I really don't want to have to change these axles outside come winter (no garage here). QUESTION IS HERE So my question is how do I go about dropping the rear diff? I see it's attached with 4 bolts to a hanger / bracket in the back and then 2 bolts for the mustache bar. I have access to a metals shop and could fab up a bracket for the mustache bar if need be, but how does this generally work? Do I need to drop the drive line hanger towards the center of the car as well? I get I'll need to get some longer bolts for that 4 bolt hanger, but what about the mustache bar? How does dropping that part go? Pictures would be awesome if anyone has them! Just want to make sure it's all aligned as best as possible so I don't start having drive line issues as well as axle boot issues. Pics for fun, do you think my camber is okay? action shot mid suspension install, and side shot of how it's sitting today. Any help is appreciated!
  4. I have recently purchased a 1996 Subaru Outback with a 2.2 liter EJ 22 engine that I know very little about. so far I have replaced the clutch and the axles and just in time to blow a head gasket . So in lue of just getting another car i have decided to turn this car into an ultimate adventure wagon, ntm b4 I blew the head gasket it had quite a few problems with lack of power and failing gages . at this point i am ready to put a new engine in the gal and do a complete overhaul . being that i am not a mechanic and i have a limitted budget, I have a lot of questions. first of these is; what can i do to achieve 250 hpaw with a 2.2 l engine ?
  5. Please help me out here- twice I have caught a brief glimps at an absolutely huge tan/gold 80-84 wagon that was passing through Lyons, Colorado heading up the south st. vrain canyon on state rt. 7. The first time was maybe 3 years ago, it pulled over in front of my house to check out my subies and was gone by the time i could get outside. Then today it drove by my house on rt 7. all I know is it's huge, looks like maybe its on 33s? and I can hear it is EJ'd. If this is somebody on the board or if anyone knows who, PLEASE get in touch, I really want to check this thing out. and I am sure whoever owns it would like to check out my hatch too.
  6. So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread. but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread. This is T-bone T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is the old EA 81 rear setup. Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem. Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. IMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for. So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback. Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff. Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use. But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure. IMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup. For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks. IMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the projected "full stuffed" point. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the forward mounting of the subframe. Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks) IMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting near ride height with wheels on. IMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is resting on it's own shocks. Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet. Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built. IMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  7. I thought it time to share my full L series build - I had a thread in the welcome forum, but since writing this out recently I thought it a good time to move over here. Some of you will already know this vehicle... This is the short version I purchased Ruby Scoo from Yackandandah, VIC, Australia (google it!) in 2004 or 2005 for $500. What we didn't know was that the engine was toast - over heated to the point that one cylinder was cracked about halfway down. After some research I found that the EA82 engine came in EFI format, so went with one of these and had a steep learning curve into the operations of EFI systems. Pick a part became my best friend here! Problem was I lived over 1 hour away. After a year in the shed she was ready for rego. This is me learning some 4wd'n with a mate near Kangaroo Flat, Bendigo: From here I had a few mods done - welded rear diff. This was a good and bad mod as it gave the vehicle awesome point and shoot abilities but with the lack of lift I managed some damage to the underside of the body, I inverted my floor pans and didn't realise this for some time. In 2007 I roadtripped to WA with my brother with a "fresh" 9 month old rebuild that was going really well: SA/WA boarder: Perth: Hit a new milestone while I was there: And we had some fun too: On the way home we (read: my brother!) blew the side out of the plastic radiator end tank on a hot day drive home. We were stuck in Tintanara and were trucked home the next day. After sorting a temporary radiator it turned out that the engine was severely cooked. For 18 months I put up with a jerry-rigged carb engine over the MPFI wiring. It got me around while I sorted all the bits for my EJ22 conversion - again pick a part played a huge role in this conversion - this time I got all the bits I needed the before getting into the conversion. Cutting down the wiring was another steep learning curve and in hindsight quite easy to do, just need to know what you actually need and go from there. I didn't do the HG's on the EJ as I bench tested the engine and was happy with how it operated. When pulled from the yard it had 127xxxkms on the clock. Turned out the clutch was completely fried. All oil seals were replaced, cam belt replaced and I should have replaced the water pump - did it about a week after the conversion hit the road. Easiest way to do the Engine and gearbox - out from under: I cased an L series gearbox in a set of EJ front cases to avoid an adaptor plate and an EA clutch. This conversion is all EJ clutch and bolts straight up without issues: The initial test was a bit of fun in the paddock - I should've put the bonnet on though, it wasn't fun to clean! All fits in like it should be there. The L series should've come with the EJ from the factory, it's a great combination! Out at Robe, SA: After a chance purchase of a lifted L series, in one weekend the swap was done and Ruby Scoo grew to this: More fun, Otways, VIC: A few years down the track and a lot of searching I managed to track down a set of the infamous Scorpion 14 inch rims, these ones with the awesome general all rounder Wild Conqueror Super Trippers (can't get them anymore ): Robe, SA: Wyperfeld NP, VIC: Lerderderg SF, VIC: After two seasons at Mt Hotham and a 4wd'n trip with a "rally section" on the Dinner Plain Track south of the township I got Ruby Scoo airborne unintentionally. Not realising for some time but I did some extensive damage to the suspension mount on the LHS. Not ready to part with her I stripped her out and went to work between other things: While everything was reinstalled I added power windows, mirrors and central locking. That took a pot load more time than I anticipated and blew out the build time. I would say this took me 6 months over the summer period to sort out and get back on the road. Return to the road: Getting back into the thick of it: Mt Cole: Getting out in the High Country with the Subaru Club of Qld (offroad club, can't remember their official title) - most of these guys are online mates from ausubi: Basalt Knob South Tk before it was switchbacked: Back at Mt Hotham for another visit (Love this place!) New "trick" gearbox - L series AWD locking centre diff, front OBX (cheap!) LSD, 1.59:1 low range, low range oil feeders and 4.111:1 diff ratio (old box 3.7:1 stock ratio): Diff locking mechanism: This was an awesome mod - the diff ratio change has transformed the drive for the better. The ratio matches the tyre size the same as the foresters run so it's a tried and tested setup, just not really done in an L series in this fashion on a regular basis. I added a snorkel for added confidence during water crossings: This was 2013. For the christmas period we were planning another road trip to WA to catch up with some mates I made over there on the cruise in 2007. Unfortunately after finally getting my AC sorted the Head Gaskets let go. Not a bad run so I shouldn't complain - just the timing over the silly season slowed down the new parts arriving in a timely manner. But she's sorted again and running very well. First time I've had an EJ stripped down like this: Where I think the HGs let go, wasn't major but enough to run hot on a warm day. No damage resulted, money saved there Back together sporting a new radiator conversion (N14 pulsar) and new thermo fans - a good setup so far: Over Easter 2014 we ventured into new territory out at Walhalla in the foothills of the Vic Alps: First real good use of snorkel - Fulton's Creek Tk, Walhalla: Messing around, Fulton's Creek: Trig Track - 12 switchbacks! Loved this area and seriously cannot wait to get back out there! Last trip most recently was to McKillop's Bridge (very speccie!) and the general Snowy River NP, VIC: ^ Pics do not do this bridge justice, it's very high, very long and has been flooded over several times! I was with a "different" cohort for this trip with some mates in larger, "real" 4wds: Ruby Scoo held her own: Until I managed to blow 2nd gear coming off throttle on a down shift from third. Nothing harsh about it. From here it was a tow job, not fun! Once back on a decent track - logging truck track - we decided to see if I could manage third, using low range as another gear. This was done to avoid time delays, rocks flicking up and damaging the front of my vehicle and my newish windscreen. It was noisy in the box but it kept going, at the time I was kind of past the point of caring. After stopping for the others to catch up (I was rally style, they weren't!) we continued but I think it was too much, once the oil settled in the gearbox bits had moved. At walking pace I ended up locking up all four wheels. We were trailered from there, trailer came from Orbost. Then another type of towing occurred a week later: ^ These guys were great, they let me park up for a week in their yard very cheaply! Near M&D's, not quite "home" though: The gearbox came out at M&D's before I took the car home as I was itching to get it started. Once the box was stripped we found this damage: I've since sourced an SG forester gearbox for it's stronger internals as Subaru did a big overhaul on the 1st and 2nd gearsets in these boxes along with a few other things. My bench looks like this as I work through the little hurdles that are thrown my way: I've had to modify a few things along the way, the low range synchro hub being one of them: Latest modification hurdle is the woodruff key for the 5th gear as I want to use the 0.87 ratio I've got in the shed, not the SG's 0.78 as that's what I used to have and I wasn't too keen on it at cruise: That's where I'm at. Using Redback (Brumby - more to come on this addition to the family!) as the daily which is what I got her for, but I can't wait to have Ruby Scoo back on the road and 4wd'n again. I'm also working on some surface rust I've found since removing the gearbox, this is a slow process itself and work/family/social life is getting in the way too. Weekends are not at home at the moment I hope you've enjoyed reading and viewing the pics. While writing this and looking at the large number of pics I've got I've surprised myself just how many places I've been with Ruby Scoo. Many more pics if you want to view! She's currently knocking on 500k kms... I've had many great times out bush in this vehicle and I'm hoping there will be a number of years of more good times to come! Just have to get it back together and out of the shed!!! Regards Bennie
  8. Okay folks, I wanted to get peoples opinion on a unique project I've been planning. I have a 92 subaru legacy wagon AWD with only 100k on the engine. No issues other than a messed up body from my brother and I doing dumb stuff. We're both mountain bikers and want a shuttle vehicle that can hold as many people and bikes as possible. (A shuttle vehicle is driven up and down a beat up road, bringing riders from the bottom of the trail to the top, loaded down with expensive bikes and people). Here's what we're thinking: Lift the car 5-8 inches for increased clearance, mount a hitch rack on the rear for a heavy duty bike rack, install rear-facing seats (a bench maybe?) in the back of the car by taking off the back door and cutting out the top rear section for head-clearance, and put bigger wheels on it with off-road tires. We also want to put on new suspension, something that can handle big potholes and a ridiculous amount of weight loaded at the back of the car (6-tray bike rack with DH bikes hanging off it). We want to be able to fit 8 people with their bikes. Now if you can tell from this post, I don't know a damn thing about cars. I'm a bike mechanic but that's a far cry from autos. So my question to you smarter folks is, what would you do to make all this happen, and how feasible is it for someone like myself to pull it off? Keep in mind, I don't care if the car drives on the highway and city like garbage. It's gonna look offensive, and I'll install speakers to blast Slayer inside and out. Maybe take the muffler off just because, and add a huge "Pop country sucks" sticker on the back. That kinda car. We want it too look as punk rock as possible. Thanks for the help, and have fun helping me ruin a perfectly good vehicle.
  9. I want to put a lift on my 1999 2.5L Legacy GT Wagon, I have considered a 2 inch lift from sumo parts but since I have the GT wagon that is already lower than say an Outback, I want to do a 3 inch lift. Anyone have any suggestions for a good 3 inch lift kit? So far all I can find are 2 inch and 4 inch kits. Thanks!
  10. I recently was given a 78 Subaru Brat, which i am already in love with. I have a few plans for this thing needless to say. My first and foremost project is to build the lift kit for it. Now i have read every single thread there is on lifting a gen 1 brat, trust me, but i still need help. i have all the materials i need for a 5 inch drop lift and 6 inch strut spacers, but i am just wondering if anybody has block specs or maybe just some last minute advice? This thing is never going to be my daily driver, i have a full size Chevy for that so it doesn't need to be comfortable on the highway just somewhat safe. My brat sat in about 9 inches of mud on the side of a road for just about 20 years before i got it, and before that it was not treated well, so its really rough. But it will be perfect for an off-road toy! all i did was drain the fluids out of this thing, put new fluids in, clean spark plugs, put a new fuel pump, coil, and air filter on it and it started up perfectly and runs like new surprisingly! The transmission is pretty noisy, but it's getting quieter the more i drive it. The previous owner decided to spray red primer right over the old paint 20 years ago, and that's why it looks as bad as it does, its not rust. I will keep you guys updated with any new progress! Mine is the red/blue one in the pictures needless to say.
  11. Hey all. I have been asking around on some forms about the SJR lifts. They seem great. I was wondering if anyone had any idea how much/long this would usually take a experienced mechanic? I am aware they some parts need to be modified and of course it would be different for each person. Anyone have any insight on this? Thank you!
  12. Hey all, I have my 1995 legacy L sedan that I lifted using a set of 1" Subtle Solution spacers on top of a set of 1997 outback struts. After putting my new tires and wheels on, it has a nice aggressive look. However, besides my 20yr old CVs finally giving out after the added stress, my main issue is with ride stiffness. I've assumed that's because the a-arms and trailing arms now sit at a more dramatic angle while at resting height. Besides lowering those mounts, I need some advice on if I should do. Any comments or ideas would be hugely helpful. Thanks
  13. Got this hatch on 8th of January for $250 non running missing the carb, distributor, coil, starter, rear windows, a lot of the interior, some ac components, and the radiator. My plans are to fix it and have it as a farm/off road rig thats street legal, so something like a 6 inch lift, 6 lug hubs, and some 15's just to start with. Last weekend i started working on it and got it running by putting on all the missing parts but its only running on 3 cylinders with 30psi in cylinder #1. Could be a crack in the head, hole in piston, cracked valve, bad seat, blown head gasket ect.(tried adjusting vavle clearance and it didn't help) Just going to put in a spare ea81 i have and get it going because why spend money when you have 2 known to be good motors to drop in. Ironically i got this in Lebanon and a spare motor i have is also from there so i might as well put it in since it has a new clutch. Another one is i bought a 84 brat on january 4th then sold my 83 turbo wagon on the 5th and bought this on the 8th.
  14. Hey USMB The Car: 1983 MPFI Turbo Brat - 170,000 miles 2" body lift 5-sp D/R Transmission Swap (originally 3-sp auto) Water Cooled EA82 Turbo Swap (originally oil cooled) EA81T The Problem: I am having issues with the brat running rich, with a lot of fuel in the mixture. I have replaced temperature sensors, air flow sensors, the O2 sensor and i am still running into the same issues. as a result, my fuel mileage is around 19 MPG, and i have a strong hydrogen sulfide smell (almost an ammonia smell) coming from the exhaust, especially when i spool up the turbo and bring the RPM's up into the ~3000 rpm range. My concern: The engine was designed specifically for the Oil-Cooled turbo in 1983 (in '84, they were recalled and replaced with water cooled versions), I have a suspicion, because i am running out of options, that the computer for the MPFI was not designed for this specific turbo. As a result, it has mismanaging its fuel-to-air ratio; causing it to dump more fuel in than is necessary because of the extra amount of air volume it is sensing, then calculating. Does this prognosis seem in any way logical to more knowledgable USMB members?
  15. NorthCoast


    Just thought I would share a fun project that TSSFab has got going on right now. A few of you have seen some of the pics but I figured I would throw it out there for everyone. Pics aren't necessarilly in order for the first post but I'll keep the updates coming as they happen. Rear Front Subframe Control Arms
  16. HighGuysLifts.com is up and running. Site is still being improved, and as of yet we don't have a "shopping cart" feature. And it's lacking pictures......soon to be upgraded. But for anyone interested, we have a list of Lifts and Prices in the "kits" section of the page. Anyone who would like info, or would like to order a kit can e-mail to Info@HighGuysLifts.com EA71, EA81, EA82, Legacy, Impreza, Forrester and Outback. We make kits for them all. GET YOUR SUBARU LIFTED!!! HighGuys!!!
  17. Pics from the Sweet Home, OR mudfest 2014. Last year I lost my clutch.....this year I only lost my liscense plate....lol Most of them are shots of the couple times I got stuck (3 or 4 I think)......But EVERYONE was getting stuck......I did very well for the most part driving around in the sea of slop. Here's MrGlegacy in Clifford(Legacy), my friend Josh (Sammy w/TDI), Myself in T-bone (EA81) Lot's more pics on my photobucket. MrGlegacy may post some video to facebook I'll get it linked if he puts it on Youtube.
  18. The Santiam mountain mud festival was held this last weekend. HighGuys were at this one, and I believe we were the only subarus there. It was insane. We had a blast. Unfortunately my clutch was weak, so it only lasted a few hours then I had to stop wheelin. Drove home 40 miles under it's own power though. Clifford, my Bro Gemini's car, did well. Although he didn't push through as many obstacles:) Sadly. This is the only real action video. Making the deep crossing to the west end. I did this early, before the huge rigs tore it to hell. I'm about 1:20 in
  19. like the title says, where is it whats it look like? I converted to a manual rack in my lifted 87 gl-10 and there is about 3-4 degrees movement in the steering wheel, the tie rod ends are good, and were recently replaced. the rack mount bushings are also in good shape. the rack itself looks like it was replaced fairly recently, I wiped it off and it looks almost new. I'm sure theres something about it in my haynes or chilton but I haven't seen either book in quite sometime. I did a search but I came up empty handed.. Thanks for the help, if it matters the rack is from an 85/86. If someone has the info floating around( which I'm sure they do). I'll see about getting it added to the USRM.
  20. Howdy folks. Here's my recently acquired GL. The peeps who had it before me did a little work. This GL makes my fourth Subaru. This is the first one to be lifted, as opposed to the obvious alternative - lowered. So, it's new. To me. '87 GL frame and body. '95 Impreza 2.2. '91 Legacy tranny. 4" SJR lift. Raked. The underbody LED kit was included in purchase. The Weapon-R intake I've had for a number of years. I originally purchased it for a Legacy.... That Legacy was totaled. Held onto it for three years, put it right back where it belongs. An EJ22. I've a number of things to do to this GL. The list is adding up. The most crucial being the front rotors/pads. Upon trying to switch out pads, I discovered the rotors were so far worn, that the created outer lip is preventing the caliper from being removed. I'll figure out what to do there. Also, the bumper. Does anyone have any info on it? I've seen three Subies so far here on USMB with the same bumper. Where'd it come from? Company? Individual? Anwho, if I have any questions... I know who to ask. Or where, rather. This is BoxerRebellion (a.k.a. Evan) signing out. Talk with you all soon. Cheers. -Let's hit T-Line. Now.
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