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Found 40 results

  1. Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue?
  2. Has anyone ever found a manual steering rack that will fit a 1999 Legacy? Been looking around and just not sure if any old Subaru manual racks would fit. I've read rumors of people using Ford Pinto manual racks.
  3. I have a 2010 Outback with 145,000 miles. In October the throw-out bearing failed requiring a clutch repair. a week following the repair the transmission would pop out of reverse. My mechanic determined that a replacement transmission was needed. Weighing the cost options (new, used, rebuild) I went with a used transmission (with a warrantee). The replacement transmission worked for a week then developed the same problem. I am on my 2nd replacement transmission and now after 2 months it pops out of reverse. What is causing this or is being overlooked here?
  4. IЯBaboon

    SVX Manual Swap Question

    I have a JDM SVX I imported from Japan that came with a dead transmission. So I am wanting to do perform a manual swap on it. Mostly because I don't have room between the engine harness and brake booster, and in the name of keeping everything as simple as possible I am wanting to go with a cable clutch setup. My question is since I am looking for a parts car so I can have all the parts I need in one place, and I am wanting to know which model Subaru's came with a cable clutch so I can narrow down my search to the cars I actually need.
  5. 3-43 7. Hydraulic Valve Lifter 1. Replacement The hydraulic valve lifter can be replaced even when the engine is mounted on the vehicle as follows: 1. Disconnect both the blow-by and PCV hoses 2. Revove the valve rocker cover. 3. Using the special tool (Socket Wrench: 899988607), loosen the valve rocker ASSY and remove the push rod. 4. Raise the vehicle body with a jack and suppor it on a safety stand. 5. Remove the nuts which secure the front engine mounting and slightly raise the engine using a floor crane. 6. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil completely. Detach the oil pan. 7. Remove the hydraulic valve lifter. Use of a magnet facilitates removal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3767-ea81fig-3-45-a-5678/ Fig. 3-45 A5-678 8. The valve lifter can be installed in reverse order. 2. Adjustment 1. Perform adjustment in cold condition [coolant temperature 20 to 40 deg. C (68 deg. to 104 deg. F)]. 2. Retighten cylinder head nuts and bolts previously if necessary. 3. Adjust hydraulic valve lifter with the following procedures: a. Perform adjustment in two (2) sequences. Sequence (I) -------------------- Position #1 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust the valve lifters for intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder, for exhaust valve on #3 cylinder and for intake valve on #4 cylinder. Sequence (II)---------------- Position #2 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust all the others, i.e. for intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder, for intake valve on #3 cylinder and for exhaust valve on #4 cylinder. b. Raise up the bend of lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3768-ea81fig-3-46-a5-700/ Fig. 3-46 A-700 <Valve opens. Screw by approx 4 turns> c. Leave it with the valves opened for approx. 15 minutes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3769-ea81fig-3-47-a5-701/ Fig 3-47 A-701 <Leave for approx 15 minutes then pressure chamber volume becomes minimum. Valve moves to close a little.> d. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of valve. This condion is called "Zero Point". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3770-ea81fig-3-48-a5-702/ Fig. 3-48 A5-702 <Valve closes Zero point Unscrew gradually> e. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by 1.5 turns http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3771-ea81fig-3-49-a5-703/ Fig. 3-49 <Hydralic valve lifter adjusted Unscrew by 1.5 turns> f. Tighen lock nut, and bend the lock washer.
  6. Duplicate...Moderator, please delete this.
  7. Hello folks, exist somewhere a list with all subaru-transmission codes?? greets bert
  8. So, I have an 01 impreza obs with an auto that is going out, I also have a 5 sp manual from an 02 forester with rear diff, drive shaft, trans support bracket, pedals, shifter. My only issue is figuring out which cv axles I need to aquire to make this swap happen. Do I just buy manual cv's for my obs or do I need to buy cv's for the forester? I have searched for months trying to find an answer on my own and am no closer to making this happen. thanks.
  9. not sure where to put this post. And I can make no guarantees about safety/quality of using these links. just fyi https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
  10. I have an 00 Legacy outback 5spd with 110k. My transmission could be happier. It started showing symptoms of a center diff issue a few months ago (should have addressed it then) and has progressed to various other rumbling/wining/grinding in the past few days. It almost sounds like one of the bearings may be turning in the case. I'm planning on opening the case for science as soon as I get my car rolling again. Used manual trans are scarce in Alaska, but I was able to find one after a few days of looking. It came out of an 04 forester and carries most of the same gears with the exception of 5th. It should bolt up fine, but the main issue I'm having is that the forester half shafts have male splines with a sprung circlip. My outback of course has the female splined axles that pin onto stub shafts that are captured by the front diff in the trans. Given the slim chance that I'll find another comparable 5sp without throwing one on a barge to AK I'd really like to make this transmission work. Are there spring circlip stub shafts I can insert in this tranny to accept my current model's female axles? Can I use the new legacy axles with the male splines? The spline counts are the same and the difference in length makes sense with the lack of a stub, but I'd rather have a little reassurance before making any decisions.
  11. So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual
  12. I am hoping for some positive news here..... I have a 08 2.5i Impreza 5spd manual with 135K miles. I bought the car used in 2010 and had to replace the clutch about a year ago (110K miles). The replacement was done by a Suby dealer. This was the first clutch I have ever replaced in any of my cars including previous VW (15+ years driving a manual). In recent weeks, my fiance has been taking my car to work. About a week ago, the yard at his job was a mud bog. He said the car was stuck about up to the frame. But he managed to get the car out (AHHHH SERIOUSLY). Earlier today he spent hours trying to get the car out of the snow/yard in PA. When I went outside, the car smelled like a pile of tires smoldering. A few hours later, I was going to go to the store and found out I couldn't. The car shifts into all the gears easily. But when in 1st or R and trying to drive, the wheels WON'T move. The rpms don't act like a slipping clutch though. There are no odd sounds either. I am floored that the clutch may be bad. I drove the car about 2 weeks ago for the day and the clutch seemed fine. It wasn't spongy, no odd noise when shifting and it seemed to catch fine. I am hoping there is something else that could be wrong. (PLEASE TELL ME THERE IS) But I don't expect this to be a cheap fix. Would 2x of trying to drive a car out of being stuck cause the clutch to go in a week? I would expect a diff to may be the problem. But would that keep the wheels from engaging? Any help or guidance is appreciated.
  13. jaredaltizer

    '03 Impreza Outback Sport

    I just recently bought my 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 170k miles on it for the intention of making it a tuner... sort of. I bought the car because it was my best friend's. He had the car for about two weeks, then he very sadly got into a horrible accident (not car-related) that gave him fatal injuries. I miss him a lot and I bought the car to remind me of all of our great memories and so I could turn it into what he would've done. This is my first car that is "tunable", so I don't even know where to start.
  14. if anybody has any tips on where I could find a cheap wrx, even for repair, I would appreciate it
  15. Just like the title says - I'm in need of a new rear diff for my manual transmission '03 Forester. I'm really hoping to find one at a junkyard, but I'm not confident I'll find an exact match anywhere nearby so I'm hoping to get a list of vehicles that would have a compatible part. Thanks in advance for any help! Edit: First junkyard I called did a little digging and suggested that my rear diff can be found on '03 through '08 models. I'm not 100% sure whether that's only the non-turbo models.
  16. These forums have illuminated for me the importance of using OEM CV boots. Though, I am having difficulty finding these boots (and necessary clips and grease) for purchase. I'm looking for specific recommendations, and other tips you all think would assist in this search. For example, some listings on eBay are for just boots without the necessary clips and grease. Thanks!
  17. Hello. I bought a '97 legacy L automatic car. Not knowing that aperently the manual cars are lacking the EGR system. So needless to say I have a CEL I need to make the auto ecu communicate with the manual motor. How can I get the car to work without EGR? First pic is my car second I found online of what it should look like
  18. Hello, I need a replacement trans for my beater, a 2000 Outback. The OEM trans is one MY only and impossible to find at a reasonable price. The trans code is TY754VCACA. I don't care if the gear ratios are different as long as the axle ratio is the same as the rear, 4.111 and it fits. Does anyone have any recommendations that will fit?
  19. 2001 Forester Took my wagon through a puddle, got er nice n stuck, managed to get myself out by rocking back and forth and some high revs. Drove up out of the puddle, and about 100 feet from the puddle she died mid shift. Couldn't get it to start up again, tried a couple roll starts and still nothing. When I got it home I tried to start some more, car was hydrolocked, pulled spark plugs, cleared the cylinders, put it all back together and tried to start again. Car turned over but didn't cough or sputter. Nothing. Took off the fuel line at the filter and noticed no pressure in lines, and the pump wasn't priming. Replaced the pump, new pump primed once on first try, did not prime again. Still no start. Pulled spark plugs and it appears that there isn't any spark, Any ideas?
  20. Would like to hear any experiences and thoughts on owning a 2000 ( or similiar) Subaru Impreza RX Manual Non-Turbo? Found one with about 223,200 kilometres on it for $5000, modded with wrx spoiler,rims, bridgestone tyres and twin tip muffler I know absolutely nothing so the more information, the better would like to learn about the engine, clutch, how reliable etc etc just tell me anything, just enthusiastic to absorb any information . Will be using this as a daily- highway driving- thoughts?
  21. vwbajatruck@outlook.com

    Just Some useful sticky notes as I get them

    1. I cut and pasted the Vin Codes off a few free websites, then stuck a few arrows on it for a pocket guide if you can print it small enough; They should be correct for the years listed, but always double check. Let me know if they are not since some came from Wiki and Wiki is know for errors galore. 2. Just a Big Bore kit & Strokers basic guide for newbies like me to Subaru. Vin codes.pdf SUBARU EJ20ej22ej25 stroking guide.pdf
  22. Hey everyone. I just purchased a 1999 Outback wagon, and one of the issues to sort out is an issue with reverse (5-speed manual). When you shift into reverse, it takes a little more force than normal to engage it, or it will grind and/or pop out when you let up on the clutch. Once engaged, reverse works fine and it does not pop out of gear. The bigger problem is when you try to shift out of reverse- going from reverse to neutral takes considerable force. The shifter feels great otherwise. All forward gears are fine, the shifter isn't loose/sloppy, no vague gear changes, etc. The clutch also feels good. The previous owner reports it has been this way since the owner before him, and it has made it a year and six or seven thousand miles like this... He just got used to it. Any thoughts on where I might look first to track this one down?
  23. Purchase a 95 legacy for my son for 300 bucks. Was told the clutch is gone. I cannot engage the gears (with the engine running), but can with the engine shutoff. Did make some funky sounds when I was messing with it...so not sure if it was partially in gear. We plan to pull the engine and replace the clutch and lots of other seals, etc. Is there any way you guys could think of to test the transmission to make sure it is ok? I really don't want to bolt the engine back up to find out that the gearbox is rubbish. My thoughts: 1) Changing the gearbox oil. This is good PM anyway but would be a good way to look for any signs of metal/evil in the oil. 2) Place car on jackstands once engine is removed...place in gear and rotate tires. Make sure input shaft is turning and no evil sounds are occuring. 3) Prayer Let me know if you have any other ideas / or if my ideas are not sound. Thanks in advance. Tom
  24. Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
  25. Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this?
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