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Found 111 results

  1. Here is our new twenty-year old lugger. ’00 SF 2.0i. Solid, rust free, 140,000 miles, 5MT dual-range. It needs a few of the usual bits fixing: axle boots, oil seals, new plugs etc. etc. but it runs fine and vacuum gauge reads a healthy motor. I have a howling rear bearing and tired rear drums. Perhaps I can swap the broken Legacy’s rear hubs complete with disc brakes to save some money.... So we now have two Foresters; a fine team.
  2. Hello! New member here. I have a 2010 2.5X with a broken rear door gusset. See photos. I’ve temporarily sealed the gap with some putty-like coax seal. I have a replacement part ready to install (see photo), but I don‘t know how to remove the broken gusset piece from the car. There’s many a YouTube video explaining the front door gussets, but nothing I can find regarding the rear doors. There’s a plastic clip in the new part. Is that the only thing holding it in place? Would a plastic door panel removal tool do the job? Is there any glue involved that would require heating with a hair dryer in order to soften it? I’ve seen schematics that appear to indicate a screw that I think would need to be accessed from the inside of the door, but I’m not totally sure on that. The schematic is confusing to me. See attached. Any help is much appreciated!!! Thanks very much. Gordon The new part, waiting to be installed...
  3. I'm new to subaru's I have a 99 forester front differential went. What interchanges? Also its an automatic.
  4. I have a 99 forester someone swapped a T21B7LCAAA-2D trans in it. The front diff is shot play in both sides of axles. I have a TZ1A37C2AA trans for it will it match up still? Or do I need to get the tcm and the rear differential out of the car?
  5. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  6. I was trouble shooting the cause for a small fire at the base of a new alternator. I found fried wires and I am having trouble getting the correct replacement. Can someone please help me with this? When I followed the wires down they go into the bottom of the fuse box into a black port. I also found they had been previously spliced and I am not sure if this is aftermarket or how it comes.
  7. Hi I’m new to the forum, I lifted my 98 Impreza L wagon on 05 forester struts and am looking to get bigger AT tires, I understand with 215/55-65/15’s I will need some fender mods, but I currently have 185s on 15 inch steelies and it doesn’t look like I have much room between the tire and front shock, so before I order anything too big I wanted to see if anyone has come across this problem any info and close up wheel well pictures would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
  8. We own a 2003 Subaru Forester XS 2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit. Unfortunately, the engine heads and block cracked. We are searching for another 2.5L engine that would work. Main Question: What years/models come with a compatible engine for the 2003 Forester? For example, would a 2.5L from a 1999 Legacy work? Thank you in advance.
  9. Hi, I recently replaced the heater core in my 2001 Forester L. Everything basically went to plan, but I'm having some issues. 1. There are several trouble codes: P0500 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction P1540 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction 2 P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input P1518 Starter switch circuit low input P0512 Starter switch circuit high input P0316 Misfire Occurred in the First 1000 Engine Revolutions 2. The gauge cluster is acting strange. Normally the lights behave but once I turn on the headlights only some of the gauges are lit and the backlights for the LCD displays turn off. I've inspected the wiring a bunch of times. I went to a salvage yard and tore into the dashes of 3 foresters to make some detailed comparisons. Took a ton of pictures. Long story short, I'm pretty sure the wiring in my Forester was properly connected. I checked the fuses and they are fine. There are two connectors I can't seem to find mates for. There's a single black wire that attaches to something somewhere around the cigarette lighter I can't find a mate for. In the same location there's a connector with 3 prongs in the same area I can't find a connection to. I have the cig lighter and whatnot properly wired up, though. I'm pretty stumped and any advice is appreciated. The service manual I've been reading is clear as mud as far where components are in the car that I can test. Any guidance with any of this is massively appreciated. The car otherwise runs and drives seemingly fine. TIA
  10. I'm an 09 Forester owner in Las Vegas who needs to do the head gasket job very soon. I would like to do it myself, BUT I really want to take the engine out, and I don't own an engine hoist or engine mount. So there are a few options: 1) Have a mechanic do it - I'd rather not do this option, partly because I want to do it, but also because I don't know of any good Subaru mechanic in the Vegas area (I moved from Colorado). If anyone knows a good mechanic in Vegas I would LOVE to hear about them! 2) Do it myself in the local DIY garage - this option would be expensive, but not nearly as expensive as having the dealership do it. Biggest problem with this is that they charge hourly, so I would be rushed to finish it, and I'd like to take my time (I've never done a head gasket job before). 3) Do it myself after renting/buying an engine hoist and mount. This would work except that I don't have a garage or driveway, so I'd have to take over a friend's. Anyway, if anyone has general advice on doing head gaskets, I'm all ears. If anyone has advice for where to do it in Vegas, I'd be very happy, and if anyone has an engine hoist or mount they'd be willing to rent to me, I'd be VERY happy! Thanks for reading!
  11. Kpmilke


    I have an automatic 2002 Subaru Forester, and I am having trouble possibly with the starter. I replaced this starter a year ago when the old one stopped working. Recently the car has had issues starting. All I here is a spinning noise which sounds like the bendix spinning but it does not sound like it is engaging the fly wheel. I have tested the starter to make sure the bendix was working by separating it from the engine while all the wiring was still hooked up. Upon turning the ignition on, the bendix drive pops out and starts spinning, just like it is supposed to. I can't find anything wrong with the starter, and there is nothing foreign up against the flywheel to block the bendix drive from coming out and grabbing the flywheel. I checked the teeth on the fly wheel and they were not worn or broken. I worked on the car for 5 hours today and out of the 30+ tries to get it started, it started twice. I am clueless. There is some wear on the front of the teeth of the bendix, is it possible that the bendix isn’t engaging the fly wheel enough, do I need to shim the starter? If anyone has any ideas, I would be most greatfull.
  12. I'm not entirely new to Subaru but I haven't don't much to an engine yet, however I am planning to rebuild my engine on my 98 Foerster limited, and I'm worried I'll botch it. Any advice?
  13. Today I discovered very, very low oil and coolant levels in the Forester, and at 200000 KM I am hoping for good luck and a simple gasket change. As far as I can tell there is a delicate oily rainbow on the surface of the coolant in the radiator (difficult to tell with fresh pink coolant and brand new clean oil, and maybe this is possible under normal circumstances). I check levels more or less weekly, and until today all was OK... I have not noticed steam, smoke or whatnot from the exhaust, but I am alarmed at the rate at which the oil has suddenly gone. I am going to run the engine to temp and make a visual. What is more obvious is the fact that there is no external oil leak (I recently replaced the gushing plastic oil separator plate and crank main seal, and everything is still dry down there) but coolant has been spraying itself around the radiator top hose and cap area. Over -pressurised cooling system? I am going to drive the car down to my workshop and start to dismantle. I have ordered two standard genuine gaskets, 11044AA483, in the hope that I shall be lucky and the aluminium is fine. Regarding the head bolts, (can of worms) I have done a number of head geaskets on various vehicles, always renewing bolts, where recommended, possible or economic - why not? I notice on this forum (and others) some heated discussions regarding this topic. I dont see it mentioned in the official Subaru Forester workshop manual - they say USE NEW GASKETS, but the bolts are not mentioned. Looking at the torques applied, and compared to some cast iron diesels i have work on, one could agree that they are reusable... Wish me luck PS the car is a 1999 SF Forester I, 2.0 N/A , totally stock standard, maintained with genuine parts (even down to the Geolandars), family runner, regular oil, general maintenance, NO racing, doughnuts, drag or burnouts. I do enjoy brisk driving. Thank you in advance for any gems- SAVE THE FORESTER!!
  14. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  15. I broke the exterior trim piece located below the window on the liftgate on my 2014 Forester. I have found a new part but don't know how to successfully R and R the broken piece. All hints are very welcomed. Thanks Steve
  16. Hello all, I recently purchased a '16 Forester that had been in an accident and was totaled. The car was repaired and inspected by the State Police and now has a Massachusetts "reconstructed" title. The Forester has 11,000 miles on it, and lately I notice a bad whining sound from the passenger side front wheel -- sounds like a bad wheel bearing. My question is, if I bring this to my local dealer for repair, are they going to look up the Carfax or title history and say to me, "This car was totaled, your mechanical warranty is void"? Or will they cover mechanical problems under the warranty? I would love some feedback from anyone whose been in a similar situation. FWIW, I find the local dealer to be a real pain in the neck. Other than the wheel bearing, the car runs and drives as new. Thanks in advance, Jeff in Boston
  17. Just did full valve job, belts, pulleys, water pump, etc... Done many before so pretty good at it. No corners cut. Fel-Pro gasket sets, etc... The car runs smooth and idles great. Seems to rev fine in neutral or Park. From a dead stop if you nail it, it does not jump off the line and the transmission takes a few seconds to downshift into lower gear. ( I just changed most of the fluid and the spin on filter. carefully and slowly got the fluid level perfect.) If I start up a hill and gently apply throttle the engine has very little power (no misfire... just no go.) Plus transmission takes it's time downshifting. Once you get rolling or on the highway, it has no problem hauling rump roast. And the transmission runs right up to 6K redline and shifts right to the next gear. Also shifts manually to all the gears no problem. We hooked up a super nice Matco scanner tool today that reads everything while you drive, etc... No codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. Changed the fuel filter and lines. Tried spark plug wires. Gas is fresh. Still will not go off the line or uphill! Please.... If anyone has any logical things to try, HELP ME! Thanks in advance!
  18. Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
  19. So, I have an 01 impreza obs with an auto that is going out, I also have a 5 sp manual from an 02 forester with rear diff, drive shaft, trans support bracket, pedals, shifter. My only issue is figuring out which cv axles I need to aquire to make this swap happen. Do I just buy manual cv's for my obs or do I need to buy cv's for the forester? I have searched for months trying to find an answer on my own and am no closer to making this happen. thanks.
  20. Hello all, new to the forum here. I have recently purchased a 2000 Forester and I am looking for advice on good lift/tire combinations. I really like the look of a lifted forester, but would like somewhere to start. I have looked on other postings but all of the images are no longer available. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
  21. New Forester, 2015, bought in July of 2015 has the problem of popping out of first gear into neutral when decelerating on a slight downhill grade in first gear at low r.p.m.s (between 1000 and 2000 r.p.m.) It happened to my wife and me both, and happens about once every week or so. The problem is slowly increasing in frequency. The service department at our dealer has had the car since Thanksgiving and it is now Jan. 4th. They say they cannot replicate the problem. Has anybody run into this problem on a late model manual transmission Forester?
  22. A couple of days ago I picked up a 1998 Forester, the main issue I am concerned with is a knocking sound in the engine. I think the knocking sound is a lifter. It is a small hammer tapping type sound. If the car is idling in neutral and I increase the rpm's a bit, the tapping normally stops. But if I am driving around town, just normal easy driving, the tapping stays. Under load 20-25 on a steep hill, level ground 20-35+, going downhill, etc, it seems to stay pretty much the same other than the tempo changing with rpm's. I keep thinking it sounds like a sticky lifter. A rod bearing should get louder under load? and a wrist pin quieter under load? If I remember correctly. I have looked up videos and they show the timing belt tensioner gone bad making a rattle, but this is not a rattle, it is a definite tapping that is in tune with the rpm's of the engine. The engine has 246,000 miles on it. I am considering pulling it and rebuilding it. Any opinions appreciated, Thanks.
  23. Hi All, My 2014 Subaru Forester has been hesitating when cold and at low speeds and now hesitates, shakes and sounds like I am driving over a washboard under a variety of different conditions, especially at high speeds or when engine is under strain. I have read about this problem for other owners and am surprised I cannot find anything on this topic on this forum. I need help! I have enjoyed this car up until now, but now I am really worried! All comments and thoughts will be appreciated! Rob
  24. Hey everyone, Im new to the forum and have been reading as much as I can. I know people have asked this question, but it seems like it was with the older models. Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated. So basically I'm finally looking to get my first subaru. I have it narrowed down to 2018 crosstrek premium with 6mt, 2018 forester 2.5i premium with 6mt or wrx, Currently wife has ram 1500 longhorn (5seater) and I have ram 2500 6seater. I have family of 6. This vehicle is supposed to be my toy / daily driver. Picking up a second job and will be traveling about 60 miles daily. I prefer the back roads winding through farms in erie vs the straight highway. Narrowed down to these 3 models because I want manual transmission to keep me engaged. I have tried paddles, but it just isn't the same. WRX all but eliminated because would probably have to trade in my truck to make it work. In my eyes, my ram is the family vehicle, so it needs to stay. BRZ is out for the same reason as Dodge challenger scatback with shaker body. My wife actually loves it as much as me, but rear drive in NE PA can't be daily driver and I would have to trade in family vehicle. The only other vehicle I am considering outside of subaru is civic SI, This is actually the best SI I have ever driven. She thinks it is sexy as a date car and it is fun to drive. I saw reports that the reliability is down for honda which I don't like. Pretty much leaves me with crosstrek vs. Forester. Local dealer doesn't have them on lot to test drive. It looks like I may need to drive to Pittsburgh or Ohio to drive both. In my uneducated opinion, crosstrek is impreza with clearance which is why I am not talking about the impreza. We have discussed the idea of needing to take 2 vehicles everywhere and she is fine with this. I am "ok" with this. Crosstrek wins the mileage and initial looks. Which is more fun to drive? Capable off road and in the snow? Being taller is the forester more likely to flip? Are all 2017 impreza accessories compatible with crosstrek? Is crosstrek or forester more reliable? I think like most people here my dream car would be crosstrek wrx. One can dream though. Thanks again. Jason
  25. I may have an opportunity to buy a very low miles 2010 Forester automatic (4eat? 5eat?) soon. Just wondering what little, or BIG, issues I might expect. any have one long-term here? has it been OK? or will it be a nightmare? it's had the fuel tank replaced due to some kind of stuck vent valves. door dings and slight hail damage. (I know it's gonna need some fluids changed, but it really is a little old lady car, my MIL's car.)