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Found 101 results

  1. Kpmilke

    Starter

    I have an automatic 2002 Subaru Forester, and I am having trouble possibly with the starter. I replaced this starter a year ago when the old one stopped working. Recently the car has had issues starting. All I here is a spinning noise which sounds like the bendix spinning but it does not sound like it is engaging the fly wheel. I have tested the starter to make sure the bendix was working by separating it from the engine while all the wiring was still hooked up. Upon turning the ignition on, the bendix drive pops out and starts spinning, just like it is supposed to. I can't find anything wrong with the starter, and there is nothing foreign up against the flywheel to block the bendix drive from coming out and grabbing the flywheel. I checked the teeth on the fly wheel and they were not worn or broken. I worked on the car for 5 hours today and out of the 30+ tries to get it started, it started twice. I am clueless. There is some wear on the front of the teeth of the bendix, is it possible that the bendix isn’t engaging the fly wheel enough, do I need to shim the starter? If anyone has any ideas, I would be most greatfull.
  2. I'm not entirely new to Subaru but I haven't don't much to an engine yet, however I am planning to rebuild my engine on my 98 Foerster limited, and I'm worried I'll botch it. Any advice?
  3. Today I discovered very, very low oil and coolant levels in the Forester, and at 200000 KM I am hoping for good luck and a simple gasket change. As far as I can tell there is a delicate oily rainbow on the surface of the coolant in the radiator (difficult to tell with fresh pink coolant and brand new clean oil, and maybe this is possible under normal circumstances). I check levels more or less weekly, and until today all was OK... I have not noticed steam, smoke or whatnot from the exhaust, but I am alarmed at the rate at which the oil has suddenly gone. I am going to run the engine to temp and make a visual. What is more obvious is the fact that there is no external oil leak (I recently replaced the gushing plastic oil separator plate and crank main seal, and everything is still dry down there) but coolant has been spraying itself around the radiator top hose and cap area. Over -pressurised cooling system? I am going to drive the car down to my workshop and start to dismantle. I have ordered two standard genuine gaskets, 11044AA483, in the hope that I shall be lucky and the aluminium is fine. Regarding the head bolts, (can of worms) I have done a number of head geaskets on various vehicles, always renewing bolts, where recommended, possible or economic - why not? I notice on this forum (and others) some heated discussions regarding this topic. I dont see it mentioned in the official Subaru Forester workshop manual - they say USE NEW GASKETS, but the bolts are not mentioned. Looking at the torques applied, and compared to some cast iron diesels i have work on, one could agree that they are reusable... Wish me luck PS the car is a 1999 SF Forester I, 2.0 N/A , totally stock standard, maintained with genuine parts (even down to the Geolandars), family runner, regular oil, general maintenance, NO racing, doughnuts, drag or burnouts. I do enjoy brisk driving. Thank you in advance for any gems- SAVE THE FORESTER!!
  4. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  5. I broke the exterior trim piece located below the window on the liftgate on my 2014 Forester. I have found a new part but don't know how to successfully R and R the broken piece. All hints are very welcomed. Thanks Steve
  6. Hello all, I recently purchased a '16 Forester that had been in an accident and was totaled. The car was repaired and inspected by the State Police and now has a Massachusetts "reconstructed" title. The Forester has 11,000 miles on it, and lately I notice a bad whining sound from the passenger side front wheel -- sounds like a bad wheel bearing. My question is, if I bring this to my local dealer for repair, are they going to look up the Carfax or title history and say to me, "This car was totaled, your mechanical warranty is void"? Or will they cover mechanical problems under the warranty? I would love some feedback from anyone whose been in a similar situation. FWIW, I find the local dealer to be a real pain in the neck. Other than the wheel bearing, the car runs and drives as new. Thanks in advance, Jeff in Boston
  7. Just did full valve job, belts, pulleys, water pump, etc... Done many before so pretty good at it. No corners cut. Fel-Pro gasket sets, etc... The car runs smooth and idles great. Seems to rev fine in neutral or Park. From a dead stop if you nail it, it does not jump off the line and the transmission takes a few seconds to downshift into lower gear. ( I just changed most of the fluid and the spin on filter. carefully and slowly got the fluid level perfect.) If I start up a hill and gently apply throttle the engine has very little power (no misfire... just no go.) Plus transmission takes it's time downshifting. Once you get rolling or on the highway, it has no problem hauling rump roast. And the transmission runs right up to 6K redline and shifts right to the next gear. Also shifts manually to all the gears no problem. We hooked up a super nice Matco scanner tool today that reads everything while you drive, etc... No codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. Changed the fuel filter and lines. Tried spark plug wires. Gas is fresh. Still will not go off the line or uphill! Please.... If anyone has any logical things to try, HELP ME! Thanks in advance!
  8. Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
  9. So, I have an 01 impreza obs with an auto that is going out, I also have a 5 sp manual from an 02 forester with rear diff, drive shaft, trans support bracket, pedals, shifter. My only issue is figuring out which cv axles I need to aquire to make this swap happen. Do I just buy manual cv's for my obs or do I need to buy cv's for the forester? I have searched for months trying to find an answer on my own and am no closer to making this happen. thanks.
  10. Hello all, new to the forum here. I have recently purchased a 2000 Forester and I am looking for advice on good lift/tire combinations. I really like the look of a lifted forester, but would like somewhere to start. I have looked on other postings but all of the images are no longer available. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
  11. New Forester, 2015, bought in July of 2015 has the problem of popping out of first gear into neutral when decelerating on a slight downhill grade in first gear at low r.p.m.s (between 1000 and 2000 r.p.m.) It happened to my wife and me both, and happens about once every week or so. The problem is slowly increasing in frequency. The service department at our dealer has had the car since Thanksgiving and it is now Jan. 4th. They say they cannot replicate the problem. Has anybody run into this problem on a late model manual transmission Forester?
  12. A couple of days ago I picked up a 1998 Forester, the main issue I am concerned with is a knocking sound in the engine. I think the knocking sound is a lifter. It is a small hammer tapping type sound. If the car is idling in neutral and I increase the rpm's a bit, the tapping normally stops. But if I am driving around town, just normal easy driving, the tapping stays. Under load 20-25 on a steep hill, level ground 20-35+, going downhill, etc, it seems to stay pretty much the same other than the tempo changing with rpm's. I keep thinking it sounds like a sticky lifter. A rod bearing should get louder under load? and a wrist pin quieter under load? If I remember correctly. I have looked up videos and they show the timing belt tensioner gone bad making a rattle, but this is not a rattle, it is a definite tapping that is in tune with the rpm's of the engine. The engine has 246,000 miles on it. I am considering pulling it and rebuilding it. Any opinions appreciated, Thanks.
  13. Hi All, My 2014 Subaru Forester has been hesitating when cold and at low speeds and now hesitates, shakes and sounds like I am driving over a washboard under a variety of different conditions, especially at high speeds or when engine is under strain. I have read about this problem for other owners and am surprised I cannot find anything on this topic on this forum. I need help! I have enjoyed this car up until now, but now I am really worried! All comments and thoughts will be appreciated! Rob
  14. Hey everyone, Im new to the forum and have been reading as much as I can. I know people have asked this question, but it seems like it was with the older models. Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated. So basically I'm finally looking to get my first subaru. I have it narrowed down to 2018 crosstrek premium with 6mt, 2018 forester 2.5i premium with 6mt or wrx, Currently wife has ram 1500 longhorn (5seater) and I have ram 2500 6seater. I have family of 6. This vehicle is supposed to be my toy / daily driver. Picking up a second job and will be traveling about 60 miles daily. I prefer the back roads winding through farms in erie vs the straight highway. Narrowed down to these 3 models because I want manual transmission to keep me engaged. I have tried paddles, but it just isn't the same. WRX all but eliminated because would probably have to trade in my truck to make it work. In my eyes, my ram is the family vehicle, so it needs to stay. BRZ is out for the same reason as Dodge challenger scatback with shaker body. My wife actually loves it as much as me, but rear drive in NE PA can't be daily driver and I would have to trade in family vehicle. The only other vehicle I am considering outside of subaru is civic SI, This is actually the best SI I have ever driven. She thinks it is sexy as a date car and it is fun to drive. I saw reports that the reliability is down for honda which I don't like. Pretty much leaves me with crosstrek vs. Forester. Local dealer doesn't have them on lot to test drive. It looks like I may need to drive to Pittsburgh or Ohio to drive both. In my uneducated opinion, crosstrek is impreza with clearance which is why I am not talking about the impreza. We have discussed the idea of needing to take 2 vehicles everywhere and she is fine with this. I am "ok" with this. Crosstrek wins the mileage and initial looks. Which is more fun to drive? Capable off road and in the snow? Being taller is the forester more likely to flip? Are all 2017 impreza accessories compatible with crosstrek? Is crosstrek or forester more reliable? I think like most people here my dream car would be crosstrek wrx. One can dream though. Thanks again. Jason
  15. I may have an opportunity to buy a very low miles 2010 Forester automatic (4eat? 5eat?) soon. Just wondering what little, or BIG, issues I might expect. any have one long-term here? has it been OK? or will it be a nightmare? it's had the fuel tank replaced due to some kind of stuck vent valves. door dings and slight hail damage. (I know it's gonna need some fluids changed, but it really is a little old lady car, my MIL's car.)
  16. So I bought a 2001 Legacy/outback (before they became separate body models, I believe) and it had a bad transmission. He sold me, with the car, a transmission. I have the engine out and was swapping the two transmissions when... the flex plate doesn't match the torque converter. 1) I haven't tried yet, but can I put the old torque converter on the new transmission (if it fits)? 2) Can I purchase the flex plate from a forester that would match the transmission I have? The transmission that I HAVE (the bad one) has a sticker that says tz1a3zs2aa-p4 The new one is tz1a3zc3aa-pm. I might have those backwards, I'm away from the shop right now. I'm not finding these in the lists of transaxles - and when I google it, the results are russian. Thoughts? for reference, when I bought it, the bad transaxle drove with a 'clunking' but not too bad. After a hard parallel park, it drove with a crazy heavy clunk back to the shop and was done.
  17. Hi y'all, I've done a lot of searching on this subject, and I was led to believe Forester struts are a direct swap onto a 98 Legacy (non-Outback), to give a little lift. I bought a set of FCS complete strut assemblies (for an 05 Forester) and brought them to a local shop for install on my 98 Legacy. They say they will not bolt on. What am I missing? Did I get the wrong year Forester struts, or do I need to swap out top hats or something? Maybe I should've just gone with '98 Outback struts/springs? Thanks so much for the help! :)
  18. I have a 2003 Forester 5 speed already out and split to replace the input shaft seal. My question is on the seal I received from Rock Auto. I've attached a picture of the two, the one on the left is the original. The one on the right came from Rock Auto. As you can see, the one from Rock Auto is half as wide. Does anyone have experience using their seal here? I've used other sized seals like this on other not so critical areas but it's a lot of work if I have to pull this back out. I was unable to find a conversion chart for National to NOK seals. Rock Auto says it's the correct one. My nearest Subaru dealer is 90 miles away so if I have to go, I'd like to go once. The National (Federal Mogul) part number is 222558. The rest of the seals I received for the axles and rear main look correct. My inclination is to send it back to Rock Auto and make the trip to the dealer. What are your thoughts? Also, where do you guys shop online for your Subaru parts? Thanks for your help.
  19. Hello everybody meet Rosey! She is my trust family helper which I purchased to get my children safely to school and back and also assist in hauling groceries. With the occasional family road trip scattered in between. It will replace my 2002 Toyota Sequoia which is great at hauling a trailer but not so great at city fuel mileage. I was able to sell my old bucket 1995 Legacy (which never did me wrong) and pool together some tax return money to pick up this gem: She has 206,000 miles, is a 5spd and has been pretty well taken care of her whole life. Now its my turn to have my way with her First thing first, these rims have to go. They were resprayed and are now flaking badly. Plus the tires dont even match so thats a big no-no! Next is the suspension... the current rear struts are blown. And I need to do something about all of that wheel gap, so some WRX suspension is in the works. Other than that, I want to touch up the exterior with a headlight restoration & repaint the bumpers and plastic cladding.
  20. I know there is tons of threads on this but I couldn't find anything talking about doing the wire harness swap. From what I understand there is a harness merge you do with the auto loom to make the manual drivetrain work normal. What I am looking at doing since my manual (2002 Subaru Forester S) got hit by a drunk driver is to swap everything besides the motor over to an Auto Forester (2001 Subaru Forester S). What is needed in terms of electrical to make it fully function (reverse lights, cruise control, abs, speedometer, key lock)? Links are greatly appreciated too!
  21. I'm thinking of lifting my 2008 Forester. if i go up 3 inches (strut spacers) will i need to also change out trailing arms and such? I do realize i will need an alignment and adjustments. any input would be great. Thanks
  22. Hi - a friend negotiated $5000 offf the invoice price of a Chevy and I've tried doing the same with Subaru at 2 dealerships. They say I'm insane and no one will do that deal. Are they lying or is it truly not possible to knock more than $500 off invoice with Subaru? And where can I find true invoice price? Thank you!
  23. Just like the title says - I'm in need of a new rear diff for my manual transmission '03 Forester. I'm really hoping to find one at a junkyard, but I'm not confident I'll find an exact match anywhere nearby so I'm hoping to get a list of vehicles that would have a compatible part. Thanks in advance for any help! Edit: First junkyard I called did a little digging and suggested that my rear diff can be found on '03 through '08 models. I'm not 100% sure whether that's only the non-turbo models.
  24. I'd like to say hello to everybody on this message board! We are from a small town dealership in Southern New Hampshire and we are excited to get to know everybody from the forum! I'd like to offer everybody here in this forum a special coupon to our online parts catalog! If you're interested in that feel free to shoot us a message and we'd love to help you out! Thank you everybody for taking the time to read this! We look forward to talking to all of you in the message boards! -Austin
  25. Hi All, I am new here but could not find this... I live in the BVI and recently got a 2003 Subaru Forester XT 2.0 Turbo imported from Japan. Yesterday not sure why the 'ECO' light started flashing and the car stopped switching gears. Mechanic checked today and looks like it is stuck on 3rd gear so he asked me to buy (we can't get the parts here) 5 transmission solenoids... First of all... is it correct? There are 5 Solenoids? Are all of them the same? Where can I get parts that will fit my Japanese import? As you can see I am not really one that understands about cars (would love to though) and have no clue what exactly to buy... Thanks in advance, Sergio
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