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Found 115 results

  1. I have good bug eye body I want to bring back to life with a 99 foresters engine. Looking for advice on the swap and if it's even all that compatible.
  2. Hi, I've a 2005 Forester which seems to run OK driving, but when I come to idle it stalls. In my analysis I am up to testing the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. After 4 tests I get a voltage of 3.6v out of the signal wire with the key on - engine off. The manual says it should be 1.7v - 2.4v With ignition running it drops to 2.9v - 3v. The manual says it should drop to 1.1v - 1.6v. I am asking as my manual does not specifically say it's for my car as it's description for telling me model and VIN numbers are different to mine. I suspect it's an American manual and this car is a Japanese build. Thus this question is to confirm I'm right before dropping > $AUD450 on a MAP sensor. My results above imply that the MAP sensor is working somewhat due to the voltage drop, but it's no where near the suggested ranges. Can anyone confirm I'm right please?
  3. Hi all, I'm about to fly to Denver tomorrow to pick up an '07 Forester from the original owner, and drive back to Las Vegas. I want to bring a short bag of tools in case anything was to happen. I also want to change the oil before hitting the road. I've already purchased a checked bag, because TSA states that any tools over 7 inches long must be checked. I'm just a little concerned about having my tools jacked. They aren't the nicest tools, but they're also my only tools. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks, Greg
  4. I have a 2003 Forester XS and the sunroof will not open. I removed the glass and with the glass off, the mechanism works with no problem. However, with the glass installed the sunroof will only open about half an inch. I think there might something obstructing the glass at the back end, closest to the rear of the car, but I can't figure out what it could be. The sunroof was stuck partly open last time it worked and I had to gently coax it back into position and since then it won't open. I'm wondering if this is a common problem with a simple fix, or perhaps the electric motor is worn out to the point where it won't move the glass.
  5. Here is our new twenty-year old lugger. ’00 SF 2.0i. Solid, rust free, 140,000 miles, 5MT dual-range. It needs a few of the usual bits fixing: axle boots, oil seals, new plugs etc. etc. but it runs fine and vacuum gauge reads a healthy motor. I have a howling rear bearing and tired rear drums. Perhaps I can swap the broken Legacy’s rear hubs complete with disc brakes to save some money.... So we now have two Foresters; a fine team.
  6. Hello! New member here. I have a 2010 2.5X with a broken rear door gusset. See photos. I’ve temporarily sealed the gap with some putty-like coax seal. I have a replacement part ready to install (see photo), but I don‘t know how to remove the broken gusset piece from the car. There’s many a YouTube video explaining the front door gussets, but nothing I can find regarding the rear doors. There’s a plastic clip in the new part. Is that the only thing holding it in place? Would a plastic door panel removal tool do the job? Is there any glue involved that would require heating with a hair dryer in order to soften it? I’ve seen schematics that appear to indicate a screw that I think would need to be accessed from the inside of the door, but I’m not totally sure on that. The schematic is confusing to me. See attached. Any help is much appreciated!!! Thanks very much. Gordon The new part, waiting to be installed...
  7. I'm new to subaru's I have a 99 forester front differential went. What interchanges? Also its an automatic.
  8. I have a 99 forester someone swapped a T21B7LCAAA-2D trans in it. The front diff is shot play in both sides of axles. I have a TZ1A37C2AA trans for it will it match up still? Or do I need to get the tcm and the rear differential out of the car?
  9. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  10. I was trouble shooting the cause for a small fire at the base of a new alternator. I found fried wires and I am having trouble getting the correct replacement. Can someone please help me with this? When I followed the wires down they go into the bottom of the fuse box into a black port. I also found they had been previously spliced and I am not sure if this is aftermarket or how it comes.
  11. Hi I’m new to the forum, I lifted my 98 Impreza L wagon on 05 forester struts and am looking to get bigger AT tires, I understand with 215/55-65/15’s I will need some fender mods, but I currently have 185s on 15 inch steelies and it doesn’t look like I have much room between the tire and front shock, so before I order anything too big I wanted to see if anyone has come across this problem any info and close up wheel well pictures would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
  12. We own a 2003 Subaru Forester XS 2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit. Unfortunately, the engine heads and block cracked. We are searching for another 2.5L engine that would work. Main Question: What years/models come with a compatible engine for the 2003 Forester? For example, would a 2.5L from a 1999 Legacy work? Thank you in advance.
  13. Hi, I recently replaced the heater core in my 2001 Forester L. Everything basically went to plan, but I'm having some issues. 1. There are several trouble codes: P0500 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction P1540 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction 2 P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input P1518 Starter switch circuit low input P0512 Starter switch circuit high input P0316 Misfire Occurred in the First 1000 Engine Revolutions 2. The gauge cluster is acting strange. Normally the lights behave but once I turn on the headlights only some of the gauges are lit and the backlights for the LCD displays turn off. I've inspected the wiring a bunch of times. I went to a salvage yard and tore into the dashes of 3 foresters to make some detailed comparisons. Took a ton of pictures. Long story short, I'm pretty sure the wiring in my Forester was properly connected. I checked the fuses and they are fine. There are two connectors I can't seem to find mates for. There's a single black wire that attaches to something somewhere around the cigarette lighter I can't find a mate for. In the same location there's a connector with 3 prongs in the same area I can't find a connection to. I have the cig lighter and whatnot properly wired up, though. I'm pretty stumped and any advice is appreciated. The service manual I've been reading is clear as mud as far where components are in the car that I can test. Any guidance with any of this is massively appreciated. The car otherwise runs and drives seemingly fine. TIA
  14. I'm an 09 Forester owner in Las Vegas who needs to do the head gasket job very soon. I would like to do it myself, BUT I really want to take the engine out, and I don't own an engine hoist or engine mount. So there are a few options: 1) Have a mechanic do it - I'd rather not do this option, partly because I want to do it, but also because I don't know of any good Subaru mechanic in the Vegas area (I moved from Colorado). If anyone knows a good mechanic in Vegas I would LOVE to hear about them! 2) Do it myself in the local DIY garage - this option would be expensive, but not nearly as expensive as having the dealership do it. Biggest problem with this is that they charge hourly, so I would be rushed to finish it, and I'd like to take my time (I've never done a head gasket job before). 3) Do it myself after renting/buying an engine hoist and mount. This would work except that I don't have a garage or driveway, so I'd have to take over a friend's. Anyway, if anyone has general advice on doing head gaskets, I'm all ears. If anyone has advice for where to do it in Vegas, I'd be very happy, and if anyone has an engine hoist or mount they'd be willing to rent to me, I'd be VERY happy! Thanks for reading!
  15. Kpmilke

    Starter

    I have an automatic 2002 Subaru Forester, and I am having trouble possibly with the starter. I replaced this starter a year ago when the old one stopped working. Recently the car has had issues starting. All I here is a spinning noise which sounds like the bendix spinning but it does not sound like it is engaging the fly wheel. I have tested the starter to make sure the bendix was working by separating it from the engine while all the wiring was still hooked up. Upon turning the ignition on, the bendix drive pops out and starts spinning, just like it is supposed to. I can't find anything wrong with the starter, and there is nothing foreign up against the flywheel to block the bendix drive from coming out and grabbing the flywheel. I checked the teeth on the fly wheel and they were not worn or broken. I worked on the car for 5 hours today and out of the 30+ tries to get it started, it started twice. I am clueless. There is some wear on the front of the teeth of the bendix, is it possible that the bendix isn’t engaging the fly wheel enough, do I need to shim the starter? If anyone has any ideas, I would be most greatfull.
  16. I'm not entirely new to Subaru but I haven't don't much to an engine yet, however I am planning to rebuild my engine on my 98 Foerster limited, and I'm worried I'll botch it. Any advice?
  17. Today I discovered very, very low oil and coolant levels in the Forester, and at 200000 KM I am hoping for good luck and a simple gasket change. As far as I can tell there is a delicate oily rainbow on the surface of the coolant in the radiator (difficult to tell with fresh pink coolant and brand new clean oil, and maybe this is possible under normal circumstances). I check levels more or less weekly, and until today all was OK... I have not noticed steam, smoke or whatnot from the exhaust, but I am alarmed at the rate at which the oil has suddenly gone. I am going to run the engine to temp and make a visual. What is more obvious is the fact that there is no external oil leak (I recently replaced the gushing plastic oil separator plate and crank main seal, and everything is still dry down there) but coolant has been spraying itself around the radiator top hose and cap area. Over -pressurised cooling system? I am going to drive the car down to my workshop and start to dismantle. I have ordered two standard genuine gaskets, 11044AA483, in the hope that I shall be lucky and the aluminium is fine. Regarding the head bolts, (can of worms) I have done a number of head geaskets on various vehicles, always renewing bolts, where recommended, possible or economic - why not? I notice on this forum (and others) some heated discussions regarding this topic. I dont see it mentioned in the official Subaru Forester workshop manual - they say USE NEW GASKETS, but the bolts are not mentioned. Looking at the torques applied, and compared to some cast iron diesels i have work on, one could agree that they are reusable... Wish me luck PS the car is a 1999 SF Forester I, 2.0 N/A , totally stock standard, maintained with genuine parts (even down to the Geolandars), family runner, regular oil, general maintenance, NO racing, doughnuts, drag or burnouts. I do enjoy brisk driving. Thank you in advance for any gems- SAVE THE FORESTER!!
  18. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  19. I broke the exterior trim piece located below the window on the liftgate on my 2014 Forester. I have found a new part but don't know how to successfully R and R the broken piece. All hints are very welcomed. Thanks Steve
  20. Hello all, I recently purchased a '16 Forester that had been in an accident and was totaled. The car was repaired and inspected by the State Police and now has a Massachusetts "reconstructed" title. The Forester has 11,000 miles on it, and lately I notice a bad whining sound from the passenger side front wheel -- sounds like a bad wheel bearing. My question is, if I bring this to my local dealer for repair, are they going to look up the Carfax or title history and say to me, "This car was totaled, your mechanical warranty is void"? Or will they cover mechanical problems under the warranty? I would love some feedback from anyone whose been in a similar situation. FWIW, I find the local dealer to be a real pain in the neck. Other than the wheel bearing, the car runs and drives as new. Thanks in advance, Jeff in Boston
  21. Just did full valve job, belts, pulleys, water pump, etc... Done many before so pretty good at it. No corners cut. Fel-Pro gasket sets, etc... The car runs smooth and idles great. Seems to rev fine in neutral or Park. From a dead stop if you nail it, it does not jump off the line and the transmission takes a few seconds to downshift into lower gear. ( I just changed most of the fluid and the spin on filter. carefully and slowly got the fluid level perfect.) If I start up a hill and gently apply throttle the engine has very little power (no misfire... just no go.) Plus transmission takes it's time downshifting. Once you get rolling or on the highway, it has no problem hauling rump roast. And the transmission runs right up to 6K redline and shifts right to the next gear. Also shifts manually to all the gears no problem. We hooked up a super nice Matco scanner tool today that reads everything while you drive, etc... No codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. Changed the fuel filter and lines. Tried spark plug wires. Gas is fresh. Still will not go off the line or uphill! Please.... If anyone has any logical things to try, HELP ME! Thanks in advance!
  22. Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
  23. So, I have an 01 impreza obs with an auto that is going out, I also have a 5 sp manual from an 02 forester with rear diff, drive shaft, trans support bracket, pedals, shifter. My only issue is figuring out which cv axles I need to aquire to make this swap happen. Do I just buy manual cv's for my obs or do I need to buy cv's for the forester? I have searched for months trying to find an answer on my own and am no closer to making this happen. thanks.
  24. Hello all, new to the forum here. I have recently purchased a 2000 Forester and I am looking for advice on good lift/tire combinations. I really like the look of a lifted forester, but would like somewhere to start. I have looked on other postings but all of the images are no longer available. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
  25. New Forester, 2015, bought in July of 2015 has the problem of popping out of first gear into neutral when decelerating on a slight downhill grade in first gear at low r.p.m.s (between 1000 and 2000 r.p.m.) It happened to my wife and me both, and happens about once every week or so. The problem is slowly increasing in frequency. The service department at our dealer has had the car since Thanksgiving and it is now Jan. 4th. They say they cannot replicate the problem. Has anybody run into this problem on a late model manual transmission Forester?
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