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Found 102 results

  1. I'm doing long-deferred maintenance and repairs on a 2002 Impreza Wagon 2.5 TS. The car was operated by someone who knows little about cars (but drives like he's still teaching the Offensive Driving and Escape Course at bodyguard school. (Once drove 300 miles in 4.2 hours on roads that DOT would have closed following an earthquake.) The (originally US) car is located in Panama. (As I write, I can look out the window and physically see the "End of the Internet" before the footpath enters the rainforest on the other side of the river.) Parts are a challenge, especially as the 2.5L motor was not sold in Panama. I have the luxury of making my own schedule and no wife to harass me, unlike him. Modifications I would like to add: Slight lift Replace or rebuild the front seats Dash and rear cameras with DVR Navigation or display system (preferably one that connects through the phone so I don't have to pay for another data subscription) Cruise control Reflash ECU And why: I'm not looking at anything special, but sometimes water levels get rather high (the car has been known to 'float' across some low-lying intersections in downpours) and it is showing some 'saggy butt' phenomenon. Given that the suspension components are original from the factory in the US and it has 175K miles on the odometer, I am not surprised. a lift of 1-2 inches (2.5 - 5cm) would help immensely with scraping the undercarriage on some of the roads. The seats are pretty worn looking and the cushioning is about gone from the above driver (who now has back issues - so a lumbar cushion would be great for him.) Cameras are a must for insurance reasons. (Fraud, etc.) White people all live in mansions, you know, and make our spending money speculating on the stock market and playing polo. (I know you all are relating to this lifestyle. I sarcastically explained this to a lawyer (who busted out laughing), but her secretary was incredulous, "Of course, like on the television!") I wish I was joking, but it really happened... Navigation system would be helpful for using Waze, which is useful for tracking the speed traps and the traffic accidents. ("Didn't you know that my husband is a big-shot politician so I can cut you off without warning, Mister BigTruck? How dare you hit my overpriced luxury SUV even though I am violating the traffic laws!") Commercial vehicles cannot move to the side of the road until the special traffic investigators arrive, of which there are few. Collide with a truck or a taxi and cancel the rest of your plans for the day. Cruise control is a 'nice to have'. Not sure it is worth it. ECU is programmed from the factory to run best at 87 Octane. Only fuels available here are 91 Octane and 95 Octane, which burns out the O2 sensors in minutes. Car backfires, but runs fine in 'limp home mode' with a steady CEL. It currently gets about 28 MPG with the #2 O2 sensor bypassed and has been driven like this for about 100K miles without noticeable damage. There are no emissions testing and the ones that do exist are not enforced (as one can see from the trucks belching thick black smoke every time they hit the accelerator.) Compliance with EPA rules is not required. Forester parts are more plentiful (due to the off-road like paved roads.) Before I pay for the parts (returns are not permitted in most stores) I want to make sure that I don't have to special order something from the States (in which case I will throw it into a suitcase next trip to save on air freight costs.) One of the benefits of 'white privilege' is that one has the added bonus of having to pay a 'premium' on almost everything. I'm in the US about twice a year. Other than that, I can use parts from anywhere. Trying to keep costs down on a car that will probably cost the equivalent in parts and labor to fix as it is worth. The info on the board has been wonderful, but I am concerned about manufacturers changing things over the years and the parts that once worked being no longer available (or not acting the same way). Bless you all. I'll post a photo later when it stops raining. so hard.
  2. Warm engine, 1,000 rpm, 50+ psi, 4,000rpm, about 30 psi oil pressure. This seems bass ackwards! Is it a problem?
  3. Hello, I am looking at a Subaru where it is a loud ticking noise from the engine. Look at the video linked: It apparently started when the person startet up the car and the car suddenly revs higher and higher by itself. They managed to stop it without any problem. Sounded like a turbo problem, but after a look on it it seems like that is not the case. Don't see why it would tick like that either. Diagnosed the fuel flow into the cylinder and that seems fine... Can the chain make this noise?, even though I don't think that'sit. Its a Subaru Impreza 150hk 2010 model. I am completely new to Subaru. -Thanks for the help
  4. We own a 2003 Subaru Forester XS 2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit. Unfortunately, the engine heads and block cracked. We are searching for another 2.5L engine that would work. Main Question: What years/models come with a compatible engine for the 2003 Forester? For example, would a 2.5L from a 1999 Legacy work? Thank you in advance.
  5. My 2007 Outback with 236,000 miles pings. It pings a lot. Anything off idle it makes pinging noise. Cannot hear it with windows up. Tried Seafoam SS14 three times, Sunoco 94, octane booster. First bottle of Seafoam seemed to help but three days later it was back. New knock sensor. New timing belt.
  6. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  7. I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
  8. I am ready to put the engine in, but first I need to install the oil pump. "Keep Your Subaru Alive" says to not to use gasket sealant when installing the oil pump. The surface the pump will attach to is scratched, is "no gasket sealant" still the best course of action? Hopefully, picture below
  9. Hey everyone - I have a 2006 Impreza wagon. Last oil change, the mechanic brought me over and pointed out this circular piece. Said it was leaking fuel, but that it might be easy to fix myself. My problem - I have no idea what it's called, where to find it and if it's safe to fix myself. I'm worried about any pressure build-up, etc. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help!
  10. The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
  11. I have disconnected all the stuff from the engine needed to pull it. I'm going to pull it tomorrow. I will replace the clutch, and the rear oil seal. Is there any other easy convenient thing I should do while the engine is out?
  12. Hello everyone, My first time over here. I have had my 2000 subaru legacy GT for almost a year now and there has been a huge problem that i cant find an answer for. everytime i think ive found it i find something else. ill get right down to it and hopefully someone on here could give me a hand. i would really appreciate it. in the car i have the battery light and the handbrake light on. my DRLs never worked and neither did my fog lights. now tonight i was outside playing with it once again and realized that everything works fine once i unplug the 3pin connector from the alternator. so the car is running off the battery. drls come on, fog lights work, and bat/ebrake light turns off. and STAYS OFF. once i replug the alternator back on the drls shut off and everything is back the way it was. ive tested the alternator and its charging at a constant 14.10V and the battery always stays at 12.30V and remember the car has been this way since i got it almost a year ago. if the alternator was really dead or overcharging i wouldnt have made it all through the winter dailying it lol. im really stumped with what it could be .. ive tested every thing all the way down to the ebrake switch and fog light switch (before i discovered the alternator plug). If anyone knows whats up id really appreciate the info. i dont have the money to dump into an alternator at the moment so i really hope that there is a way to fix this issue as it would suck to throw away a working alternator.
  13. Hi. Newbie posting, so please bear with me and hopefully I've included all pertinent information. Vehicle is a 1998 Legacy Outback with auto transmission. 290k miles with a new engine about 90k miles ago and rebuilt tranny about that same time. Fluids/maintenance done regularly. College kids car. Daughter came home from college the other day and said the vehicle is making a strange sound. Not obnoxious at all, but she has driven the car for years and knows it sounds and feel, and noticed this noise which started about a month or so ago. As best as I can describe it, the sound is kind of a waah waah waah repeating sound, kind of a circular repeating sound. Take a clock for instance, if one was to rotate the minute hand and every time the hand passed between say 12 and 1, it would transmit this 'waah' sound. Car runs fine. Engine runs strong. Transmission shifts fine. The sound can be heard when in Park and idling, as well as when driving. Also heard it in Reverse. Got under the car, and the sound seems to be coming from the area in which the bell housing connects to the engine. I shot a short video/audio from under the area of the bell housing/engine where the sound is emanating, Not the most tech savvy here, couldn't get the video uploaded, but posted it out on youtube so if you wouldn't mind referencing that link, I would be most appreciative: youtu.be/9jbAaPBpd5k With that long winded story in mind, would anyone have any ideas as to what this might be? Don't want to send her back to school with it should it be something serious. Thanks in advance! And big thanks to those that have responded already
  14. have a 98 outback, 2.5 engine was replaced or rebuilt at 150k. (bad head gasket failure) (This engine was getting 30 mpg on our trip when it starting showing signs of loosing coolant). Anyway, since I can ever remember, even before the engine problems, when it was started and was warming up, it has a vibration that is rythmic. it comes and goes like a pulse, as the engine warms up, i don't notice it anymore. I ask, because; if my engine was replaced, why does it still have this same charactistic vibration? I have replaced some of the usual wear out parts like battery, alternator, starter, radiator, batt cables, plugs/wires, but not a lot of sensors. I just check it a few days ago and got a 1507 code, and seafomed the iac. have not had an idle problem since, and no more engine light, which I saw for the first time. Still has the funky vibration on warm up... My other question? Why does it sound like the squeeky creaky when you hop in, drive real slow, come to a stop and its like the suspension 'settles', with a creak... any ideas anyone? my code reader said every reads ok, (except i had no speedo at the time so it said 0 for it, and the affor mentioned 1507 code) Gots more power and seems to be doing better on mpgs now too...
  15. I hauled home a ea82 loyal for parts on my road car last year and an 84 gl I wanted to use as a trail only rig. I didn't get to mess with it much over the winter but yesterday i discovered the engine wont turn over. I was trying to pull it over by putting socket on the crank pulley nut, to the left the nut just gets loose but to the right its solid as a rock. My breaker bar snapped at the end so its VERY seized i think. Guess thats what i get for getting a car out of a landfill. Now the hood sticker says 1.6 but it looks like one of you guys might have owned this thing because its got a ea81 and a fair amount of homemade wireing. Now I dont quite live in the states so its hard to find an engine. I cant just go to a junk yard and get one or cragslist. It would be more expensive that way even if i found one. I see RPMachine makes some rebuild kits at a price i can afford.Even few plces making ircraft heads. Rockauto has a nearly unusable websight and napa dosnt have anything but gaskets. Is RPMachine decent or should they be avoided? Off topic but I cant find any good info in lifting one of these other than 4inch is the most used on ea81s. All the treads ,pictures, links, other subaru websignts are so old and outdated that the archives 404. (looking at you offroad section). Im going to try and do my part by documenting my rigs but I dont want to have to reinvent the subaru lift.
  16. I am new to this forum as of today so I apologize if my format is terrible but I have a question concerning what engine I could put in my Outback. I threw a rod through my engine block and a local business is parting out a 2002 Forester 5-speed (my Outback is automatic). I don't know specifically what engine is in the vehicle but would whatever is in it fit my 2001 Outback? I currently have a EJ 251 I believe. Attached is the engine i'm looking at purchasing.
  17. My Brat is a special one, but it was horribly neglected, abused, and badly repaired. I had been fixing it up when people where I lived turned out to be real lowlives who stole anything they could trade or sell for drugs, and caused an illegal eviction. I ended up homeless, living in a desolate area, and became broken down out there, with nothing close, almost a mile to walk just to get water, 6 miles to walk to get or do anything else, and what aggravates that is that I have Bursitis & Plantar Fascitis in both feet, two bad ankles and one bad knee, which means on hell of a lot of pain and difficulty. Through it all, I have been doing all I can, what little I can, to try to fix and save the Brat with very little luck. One person after another has tried to talk me into abandoning it, but I refuse to. With any luck, I may soon be able to get it started, and find myself in Lake Elsinore, CA. Are there any really gifted Subaru Mechanics or Subaru freaks in that area who could help me fix this Brat and give it the fix-up it so deserves? Thank you.
  18. Hello, I've bought a damaged Forester XT Premium 2015 and I'm starting the recovery process. While I'm waiting for the body parts I'm focusing in putting the engine to run. First I sent the car to an mechanic and he told me that the engine ecu is not responding, because his scanner wasn't able to connect to the vehicle to read any fault codes. After that I sent the vehicle to the Subaru dealership and they confirmed that the ecu is damaged and needs to be replaced. I think that diagnostic is weird, because the crash didn't affect much the engine or any electronic parts. Does anyone know about something that might be 'blocking' the access to the ecu, maybe due to the crash? Something like the air bag system blocking the engine or something? The dealership is asking me $2000 for a new ECU, while I found an used for around $600. Is it possible to just replace the original ECU by a similar from another car? Is there any kind of locks, keys, passwords or something that might block the communication between the ECUs? Regarding the ECU partnumbers, mine is: 22765AH011, while the used I found is 22765AH010. All the other parts I found in the stores are not equal, but similar partnumbers: 22765AG970, 22765AG973, 22765AH510. http://parts.subaru.com/ http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/oem-subaru-parts.html Are all these ECUs the same, but with different 'software versions'? Is it possible to know if they are compatible? All of them are for the same vehicle version: Forester XT Premium 2015. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment!!
  19. I have a 1980 BRAT the engine has run sand through the carb and im assuming also the engine and the 4spd does not work for what I am looking to do with this car I found a 1989 GL that has every part I was going to try and swap into my BRAT engine, trans, rear dif, transfer case, and seats besides the seats what work will need to be done to swap over the whole or close to whole drive train? is it plug and play or am I going to need to bust out the welder and fabricobble some mounts or is this swap completely not doable I have never done or tried to do anything like this with a car the closest was helping with a 305 swap into a ventura with no front end and the mounts were fabricobbled by someone else who had done it before.
  20. Hello everyone, I am preparing myself to rebuild an EJ25 engine in my 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i SOHC. I want to make sure my valves are at or near original factory spec. If all I do is lap the valves, I understand that I may need to readjust the stem height. Will this cause any problem with compression or timing? Is there a way to determine if I need to recut the 3 angled surfaces on the valves? If I buy new valves for this used head, it looks like I will need to lap them, but will they sit correctly in the head? Is there a way to check the valve seats and check it's angles or is all this that I'm asking about for the machine shop to do?
  21. Hi, I have an 1985 VW Vanagon with a blown engine. I want to swap the engine with a 2.2L Subaru engine . I cant do the job myself, but if there is mechanics living in the Portland, OR area I would love to work out a deal with you! Any feedback would be great!
  22. dancooper

    78 Brat

    Hi, I just got my first Subaru, a 1978 Brat! It's been sitting for a while (no rust AZ car!!) The original owner died and his grandaughter knew nothing about it or it's history. I can turn the engine by hand and it was full of oil, very good sign!! the shifter was unbolted and laying on the floor, I bolted it back up and could only get first (?) and neutral. Tranny had NO oil showing on the dipstick. I'm thinking they ran it out of oil and fried the trans? Any ideas from you experts? I would like to upgrade to a 5 spd if I'm replacing or rebuilding the trans, I've heard Subaru had a 1.8 5 speed dual range for the 1981 Brat that might be a easy swap? Thanks for your ideas and help!
  23. Hi! No Electrics other than door ding, baja wont start with new battery? Help? Any ideas? thx Bajababe
  24. I have a 1998 legacy 2.5 DOHC needing a engine. I also have a 1999 forester SOHC. can the forester engine work in the legacy ? maybe a ecm swap with converters and o2's along with engine?
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