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Found 11 results

  1. I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows. I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door. When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable. I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change. I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change. What am I missing? The 1987 FSM isn't much help either.
  2. Hello USMB! Our beloved EA81 chassis is now well over 30-years-old and the parts supply is rapidly disappearing. Rubber parts, specifically, are mostly gone. In fact, RockAuto only lists the front windshield gasket and, as of this post, there is a single gasket left to order. My proposal is that we, as a community, band together like we did for the Gen-1 windshield gasket group buy, and have a run of parts made for the EA81 chassis. Right now, I'm thinking of four parts: BRAT/wagon/sedan/hatch front windshield gasket Wagon rear windshield gasket Coupe front/rear windshield gasket The first part is common across the listed body styles, so that makes perfect sense to me. I feel like the EA81 wagon is the most common body style still on the road, so it would make sense to target that application as well. I'm not an expert and have done exactly zero research on that, but it's my gut feeling. Finally the coupe has unique front and rear windshield gaskets, so it would need its own specific parts. Based on the previous group buy, I would estimate the cost per gasket to be between $50-80. These would be BRAND NEW rubber parts, not some 30-year-old NOS that has been sitting on a dusty shelf for the last three decades. So, who is interested? The minimum order will likely be around 50-units, so I'd hope we can get close to that number of members committed to buying. If you have any questions, comments or general input, please reply below and I will update this post with the usernames of interested parties.
  3. 1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
  4. The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
  5. The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
  6. 1995 Subaru Legacy L wagon ej22 Got the flywheel off. Looks like I have the plastic oil separator plate. Week be swapping for metal. Thoughts on the rear main seal. Pic attached. Should I swap it out? Board seems to dissuade people from removing...but it looks like it is leaking around bottom. Thanks Tom
  7. So im trying to replace my manual transmission input shaft seal, and after removing the 3 bolts ive been unable to remove the plate. I cant find anything on it in my manual. Its a 5 speed manual dual range trans out of an 87 gl wagon. IVe got it about an inch out, but it doesnt seem to be a plate like i thought before its more of a shaft with an oring... im confused, and since i have no guide to go off of.... i need help!
  8. Yesterday -finally- I pulled the engine on a new-to-me 2001 legacy. There are leaks everywhere -including head gaskets, apparently- but the one concerning me right now is -I believe- through the rear crank seal (see picture). I've read here -numerous times- not to touch it because of the difficulty installing the new one, but it would be ridiculous to reinstall the engine with a know leak. So... is this a rear main seal leak that needs to be adressed, or not? Also: the wrist pin cover on the left seems to be in good condition. Should I replace the o'ring preemptively? Merci beaucoup!
  9. I have a recently bought 2006 Subaru Impreza and today it started leaking a thick green slime like fluid around the CV boot. Also, it is a manual and when the clutch is disengaged there is a screeching metal grinding sound that just started since I noticed the leak.
  10. OK, here goes. Have a bad driver side front diff oil seal. Doing the CVs while I'm at it. Background- had a center diff bearing fail (shatter) 20K ago, split the tranny, found the bearing fragments and replaced no problem (also found some other old fragments of hardened metal from something else which failed and was repaired prior to my owning it). Kept the old seals and slid the halves back over the diff seals. Did not reset the backlash with the differential side retainers when it went back together (pops reassembled while I was at work, he couldn't help himself). Must I pull the trans to do this job like the manual calls out, or can I simply pull the side retainer, swap the seal & O-ring and reinstall the side retainer to the same exact point (indexing its original position/turns)? If I must pull the trans its all good, have all the necessary tools/equipment.
  11. Last June, I wrote up this thread on a dry-run wheel bearing replacement that ultimately ended up being a real wheel bearing replacement. That was for the driver side front wheel bearing on a 1996 Legacy L sedan. Well, on the same day that the car crossed over 200,000 miles on the odometer, it provided a new challenge. It started with an ABS light coming on along with some front end vibration at highway speeds. This didn't seem like that big of a deal until the next morning when the passenger side wheel started to make horrible grinding noises. I decided I should jack up the car and see what was going on.....I had already mentally prepared myself that a wheel bearing replacement was imminent. Both front bearings had been done by a shop that I STILL regret taking it to. The axle nut fell on the ground as I took the wheel cover off the car. Further removal of the knuckle/hub assembly revealed what I already knew was the case......the bearing had been destroyed and the hub was simply banging around inside the knuckle housing. It was so floppy that the brake rotor was grinding on the brake caliper bracket - rotor is toast. The ABS light came on because the tolerance of the ABS tone ring on the hub was so out of whack from the sensor. So off to the junkyard in the morning. The first potential donor car did not have ABS - of course I only noticed that AFTER spending 20 minutes getting the rusted mess off the car. Note in the photo below that the hub does not have the ABS tone ring. The second car (shown below) was the correct match with the added bonus only rust belt operation can provide. Unfortunately after pulling the CV out, I found that this wheel hub was totally destroyed. I did manage to pick up a new-ish brake rotor since that needs replacing anyway. The third car was an older 1994 Legacy wagon. This turned out to have a good knuckle/hub assembly and was the one that came home with me (after two hours of "practicing" removing wheel knuckles from 3 different cars at the junkyard). The donor knuckle/hub assembly has a very different brake dust shield, but the parts are identical between the 94 and the 96. (back to 92 as demonstrated on the driver side bearing change). I drove out the hub from the backside with a socket and a hammer - no slide hammer this time. It cleaned up pretty nicely and I lightly polished the hub shaft. And I used an air chisel to drive the outside inner race from the hub using the same technique as last time. I have a new bearing, but I still need seals from the Subaru dealer. The O'reily's and Carquests around here keep giving the wrong inner seal - the correct seal has a taller lip than they provide. Next up, cleaning up the parts and pressing out the bearing race from the knuckle with the Harbor Freight puller kit #66829.
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