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wagondragon

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About wagondragon

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 07/28/1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hillsboro Oregon
  • Vehicles
    1985 Subaru GL Wagon, 1987 Subaru GL Wagon
  1. That's what i am figuring, but i was hoping for a more definitive answer?
  2. Hey, i recently bought a rack and pinion complete kit off of rock auto for my 1985 Subaru GL Wagon. It is a manual steering unit. I'm pretty sure its the wrong part since even with my tie rod ends screwed all the way out they wont reach my wheel hub... Thought everything else seemed fine. After actually READING what i bought it said its for a hatchback... Doh! What is odd is that it says it should fit. Are the tie rod's a different length from the hatchback to the wagon? Can i just buy the correct length tie rods and swap them? I've been looking but haven't found anyone stupid enough to have this issue before... This is what i bought... http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=30875&cc=2000001&jsn=353&jsn=353
  3. wagondragon

    transmission

    Bad syncro probably, is it a manual or automatic? Autos tend to have that issue ive heard. Never had issues with mine, but switched to a 5 speed anyways. Better mpg... If it is the syncro you will have to split the case and dig into the gears.
  4. My 3AT was the exact same way... your allot better off with a 5MT... i cruised at just around 3k at 55-65 when i swapped my 3AT for the 5MT... like a dream come true. i get alittle over 31mpg on the highway with that 5MT. Honestly, i cant imagine going back to the that crappy auto...
  5. How do you get the mixture right for the carb?
  6. I'm very interested in this... if it works. I would love to see a video of it in action from someone on usmb. How do you get the fuel mixture right? Also doesnt it put a drain on your battery / alternator?
  7. wagondragon

    boiling overflow coolant

    As the car temp rising so does the pressure in the cooling system with the cap ON. If you let the car rise to normal operating temp and try to take the cap off. it will blast out the top. Dont do that. Let the car sit and cool down while it is OFF, give it a good 10 mins or more. Then take the cap off and turn the car on, let it run to normal running temp and let the Tstat open. Make sure once the Tstat is open you are getting flow, this should be evident when the drivers side radiator hose begins to heat up. And you should begin to see swirling in the radiator with the cap still off. ( make sure your fluid level is the same level or just a tad below the radiator cap filler extension.) That will tell you your pump is working. If you have head gasket issues, like Bird said you will see a steady stream of bubbles coming up. ( small bubbles ) After awhile the fluid will heat up and expand and start flowing out, so at this point either put the cap back on or turn it off so you wont waste fluid. The best home test ive seen is running it on the road, and feeling the fins for dead spots. Or getting a line off your water heater in your home, and running hot water through it. feeling for cold spots, aka blocked passageways.
  8. wagondragon

    boiling overflow coolant

    It sounds to me like your not having over heating issues at all then? you said that the temp gage doesnt get much higher than the middle? The gurgling sounds like air in your heater core. maybe try lifting the front up or parking on a hill while you run it, and fill to the top? Is the fluid level consistently going down? if you run it and lay under the engine bay is there any drops? Are you getting white smoke? if the answer is no to these i dont think anything is wrong. maybe look into getting a new radiator cap? if your leaking from the overflow reservoir while you drive or while the motor is at temp, that might be a source of your leaking.
  9. wagondragon

    1992 Loyale -- No fuel

    Is it fuel injected? I had a similar problem, turned out to be a bad ECU. But there are loads of things to check before its worth replacing that. Allot of which can be tested with a volt meter. I would think that once the fuel line is pressurized the pump would shut off? I dont know, just thinking out loud. Since it sounds like you have ruled out the fuel pump. I would take the fuel line going to the carb or injectors off, and turn it over. make sure your getting flow, maybe put a pressure tester there to make sure your getting the right pressure. I did that with mine in the engine bay right off the intake, was pretty easy and rules out a few things.
  10. Have you checked the flatness on your intake and the adapter plate?
  11. Well, good news is the damage to it isint that bad... my uncle is a machinist and he seems to think after cleaning up some of the surfaces it should still work. Since im not going to be using the high low often if at all, at this point in time. It should only effect the longevity of the part. Which if i dont use it... Wont be an issue. IF its not too much trouble the part number would be great to have to future reference! I asked a local subaru parts department/ dealership about it and they said they dont make them anymore. (assuming we were both on the same page) But it doesnt surprise me that they wouldn't make anymore OEM. Anyways, thanks. Ill take a picture of it before i put it back in. And ill post here what happens. Wish me luck!
  12. Well, when fiddling with it trying to take it apart i tried shoving it back in. ( i know stupid ) And the synchro for the high low got partially sheered. So now im trying to find a replacement. I got the halves apart now after viewing your walkthrough. I just need to order the parts, and figure out where i can get a synchro.
  13. Haha, so anyone know where i can get a new synchro?
  14. Alright, thank you. Has anyone seen the trans manual locally?
  15. Sorry, I cant find anything with the search sometimes... i googled, and searched here... Could you link me your write up? Also do you know where i could find the manual? I read #2 someplace, but i have no context as to what book series that is...
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