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Found 23 results

  1. Has anyone ever found a manual steering rack that will fit a 1999 Legacy? Been looking around and just not sure if any old Subaru manual racks would fit. I've read rumors of people using Ford Pinto manual racks.
  2. Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice.
  3. Good afternoon, I have a issue with the power steering which I believe is expelling all the air from the system. This all started as the pump needed to be changed as it began to fail, probably because of a bad o-ring on the intake spout. Parts changed: Pump, o-ring and reservoir to pump pipe. The issue is that while the car is in the air and the wheels are being turned, there is very little to no noise. As soon as I lower it on the ground and repeat the process, there is whining when i turn the wheels. I have been through the whole air bleeding process time after time and it still wont get any quieter than this. Observation: I did notice that as i turned the steering wheel left there was a 'juddering' in the wheels which can be felt through the steering wheel as well as observed. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  4. Just curious. I know MOMO and Grant had applications for Gens 1-3, but I've never seen or heard of an adapter from Nardi.
  5. Does anyone know the overall width of an EA82 power steering rack WITHOUT tie rod ends installed?
  6. Made a YouTube Video regarding a steering rack replacement. Can use this guide for nearly any Subaru, so be sure to save it for future reference! Don't forget to bleed it when you're done!
  7. I keep finding that this little DL seems to be a bit of an anomaly. I've had issues with parts before, so no big surprise here. I ordered a manual steering rack and was going to install last night. Upon inspection I see that the new rack has a flanged connection to the steering linkage. Unfortunately my old manual rack has a splined shaft and yoke set up like a power steering unit. I'm guessing that I will need to find a different linkage to make this work. Am I missing something here?
  8. Hey, i recently bought a rack and pinion complete kit off of rock auto for my 1985 Subaru GL Wagon. It is a manual steering unit. I'm pretty sure its the wrong part since even with my tie rod ends screwed all the way out they wont reach my wheel hub... Thought everything else seemed fine. After actually READING what i bought it said its for a hatchback... Doh! What is odd is that it says it should fit. Are the tie rod's a different length from the hatchback to the wagon? Can i just buy the correct length tie rods and swap them? I've been looking but haven't found anyone stupid enough to have this issue before... This is what i bought... http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=30875&cc=2000001&jsn=353&jsn=353
  9. Hello all, I have a 1980 Subaru Brat that won't steer! The splines at the top of the column where it attaches to the steering wheel are stripped, and it also seems the threads at the top of the column are stripped, and also the steering wheel itself appears to have stripped splines. Please help! If anyone has a steering column that will work (it is an EA71 if that helps), or if anyone has info on other columns that will fit, or a method to fix what I have that would be great. Thanks. Claus
  10. My Subaru has a vibration feeling up front while stopped in drive. It occurs whether if it's warmed up or cold and as soon as I creep forward it stops vibration. The car seems to idle nice and steady, I don't think it's an engine issue. I had one mechanic tell me it was an exhaust shield and another say it was the power steering pump. I trust the pump diagnosis but was wondering if anyone has experienced this or can speak to the validity of that diagnosis. And if it is the pump, should I rebuild or replace? This Baja is getting expensive ... D:
  11. I was doing some brake work and the front wheels of my wife's 2003 OBW can wiggle about 1mm or so in the 3 o'clock to 9 direction. Both sides do it. This is with the tire in place, maybe about 1.5 mm?, but , while noticeable, it's very slight. no movement up-down so, bearings all seem OK. just wondering how bad things need to be to warrant repair. (or, is this normal? - I don't know if i have ever really checked this before)
  12. Hello i have a 1992 Loyale recently replaced the power steering pump, and my steering still sucks anyone know why?
  13. I've got a 1998 Legacy Outback. When I make a right hand turn, it continues to pull to the right after I come out of the turn. If I turn the wheel about 360 degrees to the left there is a clunk sound and it is centered again. If I hit a bump in the road it'll pop back into place too. Any ideas what might be causing the pulling? Thanks in advance! -Scott
  14. 1999 Legacy Wagon steering is jerky when turning, even at complete stop. First noticed at low parking lot speeds and tight turns, but now starting to notice occasionally at higher speeds. Power steering fluid level OK. Hoping it's not my steering gear. How would I know if that's the problem? Has anyone else run across this? Appreciate any help.
  15. Parts Needed for 1980 1st Gen BRAT GL I am trying to eliminate a slight shaking at higher speeds and would like to get an alignment done. I found about half of the parts I would like to replace, but I am having trouble finding the inner ball-joint assembly parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! (See the attached photo to match the following numbers) What I REALLY need: 4. Lock nuts 5. Boots 6. Snap rings (boot) 7. Ball-joint assemblys 8. Lock washers What I was able to find and already purchased: 1. Dust seals 2. Snap rings 3. Tie rod ends - Outer ball-joints
  16. We are a niche company selling Prothane and Whiteline suspension products as well as Intro-Tech CUSTOM sunshades, winter windshield covers, car covers, and floor mats without logos. We are very interested in adding other Subaru products to our offerings and desire input from other Subaru autophiles. Please help us expand our product mix in Subaru products! Your comments are very important to us. Other comments are welcome!! Best regards, Auto Wearhouse
  17. 1999 Mercury Cougar V6 2.5l Scenario 1: Hands on Wheel Pulls very hard to the left when braking. After letting off the brakes - the car will immediately straighten itself out. Scenario 2: Hands off the Wheel If traveling in a straight line - Wheel turns to left when braking as if some kind of auto pilot has been engaged, but the vehicle continues in a straight path. After letting off the brakes - the wheel straightens out. Once again, maintaining a pretty straight path. Obviously Scenario 2 is undoubtedly dangerous. We have temporarily learned to counter steer while braking. Terrible thing to have to learn. Any thoughts on where I should begin? One of Front Struts? Rack or Rack bushings? Tie-rods? I’ve already replaced Calipers, Pads and Rotors all the way around the car. My initial thought was a hanging caliper. Kind regards
  18. Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-)
  19. Hello. I have a 2002 Forester with 175,000 miles. After I drive the car for about 1/2 hour and the car gets hot, I have a problem when I turn the vehicle. No issue when I go straight, but when I turn, like going into a parking space, something starts binding. I can overcome the binding, with more power from the gas pedal. The tires are and have been good. I can not tell if the binding is from the front or rear. The binding will occur either going front or back with the wheels turned. It almost feels like the brakes are being applied, but it is not. Any suggestions, please. The car is a manual transmission
  20. I have an 82 GL Wagon 4X4 ans since I have owned it it has ran strong but the oil pressure drops to almost nothing when it is idiling for a minute, what could the problem be? Also the front end has started making a kinda rattling/cluncking noise when cruising between 1500-2000 RPM's (4th gear driving 35-40 MPH) my steering boot started leaking a while ago so i am going to replace it this weekend, could it possibly be the tie rod where it connects into the rack? or would it be in the CV axel / transmission connection?
  21. like the title says, where is it whats it look like? I converted to a manual rack in my lifted 87 gl-10 and there is about 3-4 degrees movement in the steering wheel, the tie rod ends are good, and were recently replaced. the rack mount bushings are also in good shape. the rack itself looks like it was replaced fairly recently, I wiped it off and it looks almost new. I'm sure theres something about it in my haynes or chilton but I haven't seen either book in quite sometime. I did a search but I came up empty handed.. Thanks for the help, if it matters the rack is from an 85/86. If someone has the info floating around( which I'm sure they do). I'll see about getting it added to the USRM.
  22. Hi All, I'm a Subie Newbie! Just got my first one-2004 Forester w/93K. Seems good, except... My shop is having trouble fixing my intermittent pull to the right (or left) while at 35-45 mph. They found that the 4 wheel alignment was out, fixed it. And that some bushings were worn, fixed. But I still have the issue. Going back in Monday for the second round. This is a grade A shop, btw. Anyone heard/seen it?
  23. Hey all, first time using this forum. I have a 2005 Legacy L, 150K with various problems, but runs great. There is a minor oily fluid leak dripping from the jack-up plate behind the oil tank. I took a close look and noticed that the steering boots are broken which is right above the jack-up plate. Could this have anything to do with the leak? I have a feeling you are going to tell me I have to get the whole rack replaced. It has been slowly leaking (one drip per day) for 6 months and I haven't noticed any drop in oil or PS fluid levels and the car runs fine. One of the axle boots is also broken. I also have a gas smell on the interior when I turn the heat on and the heat is super slow to get started. AC is also broken and a recharge didn't work. Not too concerned about these though. I love my car and would appreciate all helpful positive responses.
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