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Found 14 results

  1. At highway speeds, there is a vibration, feels like it's from the front, steering wheel cycles left-right about 5 times a second. I just had new tires put on. What besides tire imbalance can cause symptoms similar to tire imbalance? mkoch
  2. My 95 manual trans Legacy has a bad vibration that occurs when releasing the clutch. It feels like the drive training is 'bucking'. If clutch is released carefully it is smooth with no vibration, but if a bit more torque is applied I get the bucking. I think it might not actually be the clutch since when released carefully it is totally smooth with no vibration. It's been tough to pin down since it only does it excessively when actually driving, more when starting from a stop, but also when shifting gears if motor speed is not matched to next gear. I've tried blocking the car or holding the brake while letting the clutch out to slip a bit under torque and I don't get much doing that. I'm imagining this might be a motor mount but haven't seen good access points to check that. It seems particularly bad when starting in reverse, especially if backing up a hill a bit. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this or check the mounts without having to tear it all down? Thanks.
  3. I'm trying to find out what is causing my tires and steering wheel to vibrate every time I turn the steering wheel. I replaced the power steering pump and the racking and pinion look fine (no leaks or other visible issues). I also replaced the fluid and bled the system but that did not help. Any help you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. Here is the video:
  4. have a 98 outback, 2.5 engine was replaced or rebuilt at 150k. (bad head gasket failure) (This engine was getting 30 mpg on our trip when it starting showing signs of loosing coolant). Anyway, since I can ever remember, even before the engine problems, when it was started and was warming up, it has a vibration that is rythmic. it comes and goes like a pulse, as the engine warms up, i don't notice it anymore. I ask, because; if my engine was replaced, why does it still have this same charactistic vibration? I have replaced some of the usual wear out parts like battery, alternator, starter, radiator, batt cables, plugs/wires, but not a lot of sensors. I just check it a few days ago and got a 1507 code, and seafomed the iac. have not had an idle problem since, and no more engine light, which I saw for the first time. Still has the funky vibration on warm up... My other question? Why does it sound like the squeeky creaky when you hop in, drive real slow, come to a stop and its like the suspension 'settles', with a creak... any ideas anyone? my code reader said every reads ok, (except i had no speedo at the time so it said 0 for it, and the affor mentioned 1507 code) Gots more power and seems to be doing better on mpgs now too...
  5. My Subaru has a vibration feeling up front while stopped in drive. It occurs whether if it's warmed up or cold and as soon as I creep forward it stops vibration. The car seems to idle nice and steady, I don't think it's an engine issue. I had one mechanic tell me it was an exhaust shield and another say it was the power steering pump. I trust the pump diagnosis but was wondering if anyone has experienced this or can speak to the validity of that diagnosis. And if it is the pump, should I rebuild or replace? This Baja is getting expensive ... D:
  6. I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy Outback with 170,000 miles that is having violent shuddering problems when braking and a barely noticeable shudder when at speeds above 55-60 mph. A mechanic friend said that the R&P was broke (it was, very badly) and that the reason I only felt the shudder when braking was due to the R&P violently moving when the pads were pressing on the rotor. I replaced the R&P, both outer tie rods ends, and steering pump back in July 2016. I also recently had the transmission and axles drained and refilled in August 2016. The axles were put on December 2015. (I should mention that the R&P was an absolute Son of a Biscuit and after 2 alignments from Free Service (who I will never use again), the steering wheel is not exactly aligned.) After the fix in July, the shudder is much, much, MUCH better but it is still there. I am thinking that I need to replace the rotors and pads, but the previous dealer replaced both sets of rotors and pads less than a year ago. I am not sure if driving and braking on a basically severed R&P would cause the rotors and pads to warp between October 2015 and July 2016. But the dealer is also a crook, so they rotors and pads could have not been new. The shudder when braking is mostly in the steering wheel (which shakes pretty bad), but sometimes I can feel it in the seat. My passengers say they do not feel the shudder at all. The shudder lessens as the vehicle slows and it is very rhythmic when you are almost stopped. This leads me to think that the rotors and pads are warped. But could it be the wheel hubs? Any suggestions?
  7. I am getting vibration while driving. My Haynes guide states that having vibration and noise that changes pitch consistent with speed is indicative of a bad rear drive-shaft. The Haynes guide seems to indicate that the center bearing on the drive-shaft can be replaced, but other sources dispute that.The car has only about 95k on it. Another Subaru Outback forum says to get a used drive-shaft rather than buying a new one (minimum I've seen for new is about $338). So looking for some advice if I can replace the center bearing or not, or if a used drive-shaft assembly would be OK. My understanding is this issue is rare. What range of Outback years does a 2008 drive shaft fit? Any other advice on this issue would be welcome. Thanks
  8. I just bought a '98 Forester which has a vibration when under load. Mechanic said I have frozen u joints and the prop shaft has to be replaced ($1100) because they are non-serviceable. I really hate being told what can't be done and I'm a cheap-skate, so I did a little searching and came up with http://rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm. These guys have a whole line of u joints for "non-serviceable" drive shafts. I ordered three u joints for $110 and will replace them and test drive it. If I don't update this topic, it means all went well. Otherwise I will warn of the pitfalls. I would love to hear if anyone else has attempted this and what their success was.
  9. Hello people, This may sound ridiculous to some of you, but for others -like me- this would have been very useful. I have been very busy lately so I have barely done anything to my '01 Legacy. Something I did, however, was to fix an *incredibly* annoying vibration of the gas pedal, which I had felt since I put the engine back after doing the head gaskets. Some time ago I read a post by someone asking for help with a similar issue, but (s)he ended up taking the car to a dealer, who diagnosed an incorrectly routed gas pedal and/or cruise control cables. They fixed the problem, but this person didn't offer a more detailed description of the solution. Last weekend I went to my u-pull of choice, and found a '00 Legacy sedan "totaled" (light right side damage) with a *pristine* -and apparently untouched- engine bay. After getting what I needed (power steering pump), and somehow I remembered to take a picture of the junkyard's car engine bay. When I compared it to my car's, I found the routing of the cables was fine, but I had (mistakenly) fixed them to one of the A/C hoses. The car still runs a little rough, but at least you don't feel anything on your right foot, which I consider an absolute success So... here's the picture: The cables are fixed using plastic clips in three places: - The (wrapped) positive wire from the alternator to the battery. - The positive wire from the battery to the starter motor - One of the A/C hoses (only the cruise control cable) Best luck!
  10. The Hatch received a new clutch, machined flywheel, new front DS CV shaft and hub (THANKYOUSOMUUUCH Gloyale Rear drive train is a w.i.p. so currently running it without the rear shafts. Everything else back in after the drive shaft was straightened + refurbished with new u-joints, diff worked over. The engine was not removed to replace the clutch, the trans was pulled. It was rocked back and forth a bit, so the following symptoms.. bad engine mounts? It starts a bit more rough, and immediately with vibrations felt through the car, never before present. They reappear when engaging the clutch and moving the car forward from a stop and at very low speeds. Engine not is now a subtly lower tone, and while it's not drastically slower, I can tell it runs with a bit less power. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Bonus engine bay pic, glad to see my rear end paint job from New Year's holding up extremely well, but sorry no pics of that yet. http://postimg.org/image/9f8csxn17/
  11. The PandaWagon has developed this low frequency vibration below 15 MPH. It's most noticeable under acceleration, but if you push the clutch in and let it roll, you can still feel it. Kinda a thump thump thump kind of sound in the floorboards. Doesn't matter the gear. Once I'm above 15, it's smooth not one hint of vibration- even over 80. Last time I had it out, I went on about a 200 mile drive. It was fine till about half way through the drive and it showed up again and as I worked my way home, the shake was getting really bad. At one point, the shake was rattling something up front - a dull metallic sound. Again, only below 15 MPH. I've always had a ever slight vibration from the rear on take off for the last 10K miles. Especially when loaded. I figured it was the rear LSD. Well, it's gotten really bad in the last 3 or 4 weeks. All the axles have no bad boots and are quiet. I've felt the drive shaft - no play in the u-joints. I've been searching around looking for similar symptoms. So far, this is what I need to look at: Axles Drive Shaft Rear Diff Transmission? (btw it's a FT4WD 5 speed) Engine/Trans Mounts Rear Diff mounts? Wheel bearings have no play Trans is about a half quart down, could that cause it? I'll be topping that off shortly. I'm planning on changing the fluid in the rear diff, if that makes no difference, then I'll drop the driveshaft and check if there is a seized u-joint. The engine mounts are good, not sure on the trans mounts though. From reading some of the other threads around here, it could be a DOJ. I can try swapping sides to see if that makes any difference. But it's still there when power is not applied, so.....maybe not? anything else I should check? Thanks
  12. Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-)
  13. Hi folks, I'm looking at buying a 2007 Outback with a 2" lift kit. Had it inspected and the report came back with, "The engine and transmission made an irregular noise with an associated vibration, during the test drive, mostly at slow speeds and accelerating. Requires further investigations. (We suspect a faulty engine or transmission mount)" Just wondering if the lift kit is likely to cause any issues, and if anyone has similar experiences and what the outcomes were? Thanks in advance David
  14. Hope someone can help me with this problems Today my car started to vibrate alot after driving for about 15 minuts,(to work). The same happend on the way back, after 15 minuts it startet to vibrate again. At the same time it seemst like the turbo went crazy, it is allmoust like its no midle thing on the throttle, either full throttle or just low speed. A few times befor, when i start the car in the morning the check enginge light has turned on, but then dissapeared again after a minute or so. But when the light is on it cutts the turbo, the turbo only charges up a litle, then blows it all out. Does enybody have experiense with the same problem, and could it be a connection between thees two? Couldent find any topic about this in Norway so hope some one could help me here im glad for all answers (if you understand my english)
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