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Found 19 results

  1. Is there any way to determine where the actual source of the driveline whine is besides removing the back half of the driveshaft and inserting the FWD fuse? If I remove the rear half of the driveshaft, will the differential still whine? Now it doesn't seem to make any difference if I am on- or off- the throttle. Will just putting the FWD fuse in indicate anything? What should I look/listen for? Thanks, mpergielwalkermi99forester08forester
  2. I have a 2010 Subaru Outback 2.4L with about 144,000 miles. I was doing an oil change on Monday and saw some fluid leaking. The area I've circled had fluid on it with it 'pooling' on the bolt near the middle of the circle. It appears to be coming from the front differential but I am by no means an expert and was wondering if I was right. I'm only guessing this because of the 'Diff Oil' label to the right. Last winter as part of some scheduled maintenance I had a Subaru dealer replace the differential oil since it was -40c out and a couple of the things were beyond my comfort level. Over the summer the Subaru is our second vehicle so it didn't get driven much but I started noticing some small spots of fluid on the driveway. I wasn't too worried and was going to check next time I was under there as there wasn't any major spots and I couldn't see anything from the top. If it is the a differential seal/gasket, it seems like something that needs replacing before it destroys itself from what I'm read but I wanted to get some thoughts before running ahead and doing something. Thanks!
  3. Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
  4. I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Sport Limited (automatic CVT) that I am having some problems with the front differential. A little background… I was driving fairly aggressive for 1-2 hours and the “AT Temp” light came on. I the slowed the vehicle exited at the next exit (~8 km) and turned it off to cool. The next day I was driving about 70 mph (~110 km/h) when the vehicle had a sudden jerk and vibrated aggressively. The rpms dropped to ~2000 and would not go higher. I pulled over and smelt something burning. The vehicle now makes a grinding clunking sound under the car when putting the foot on the accelerator. It sounds almost like loose grinding wheel bearings and is coming from the diff/transmission area. At first I thought it was the CVT... But I drained the CVT fluid and there were no signs of metal debris and color looked good. I then drained the front differential and there was fine metal debris on the magnet. I put new fluid in and drove the vehicle 25 miles (~40 km). The sound diminished some, but is still there. I drained the fluid again and it was littered with superfine metal flakes smaller then glitter. I found one piece of metal as thin as a razor blade and about 8mm x 3mm attached to the magnet. I planned on selling the vehicle this month prior to the mishap... so I’m trying to determine my options. My brother is a mechanic and we can do the work. The problem is we can’t find a front differential. It seems that everyone wants to sell the differential with the transmission. My question(s) to the forum are: Does this sound like the front differential needs to be completely replaced? Or is it perhaps an easier repair? If replacement its needed… does the transmission also need to be replaced or can a guy just do the diff? Can any more harm be done if I keep driving the vehicle and ignoring the sound it makes? What are the consequences? Much appreciated!!
  5. Just like the title says - I'm in need of a new rear diff for my manual transmission '03 Forester. I'm really hoping to find one at a junkyard, but I'm not confident I'll find an exact match anywhere nearby so I'm hoping to get a list of vehicles that would have a compatible part. Thanks in advance for any help! Edit: First junkyard I called did a little digging and suggested that my rear diff can be found on '03 through '08 models. I'm not 100% sure whether that's only the non-turbo models.
  6. It's been a long time since I've posted. Ahhh, this feels good. Anyways, my diff support bushings are toast. I'm looking into options to replace them. Does anyone have any advice on specific products or procedures to do the job? If I have to drop the differential, I'd like to do the diff mount bushings too, pending time and money. Here is what I think can be installed; please correct me if I'm wrong: Support bushings (ones on the outrigger near the outside edge of the vehicle): Whiteline W91379 and for the diff mount bushings (ones at the rear of the diff): Whiteline W91380 Do these look like the correct parts? Thanks for verifying. Here is a vid of a similar procedure that I have found. This guy pulled the entire support bracket out to do the job. Is this how you guys have done it or is there an easier way? Thanks, SK
  7. Not sure if this is already posted here somewhere, and, perhaps a mod would like to move it but, user plainom at subaruoutback.org has a slideshow of the center viscous LSD in a 5spd. if you need a password; centredifferential http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/plainom2/slideshow/MT CENTER DIFF PRESENTATION more info about this here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/216090-manual-tranny-center-differential-dissassembly-incl-viscous-coupler-slideshow.html
  8. Have a 91 loyale automatic push button 4wd and when I drive it for a very short distance you can feel something in the front end grabbing and then all at once it's like you hit a brick wall when the front end locks up and the only way you can move is in reverse so could someone please diagnose what is wrong..I have found a new trans and front diff so if that's the problem I have the parts to fix it but don't want to replace all that if it's not the problem..thank you and I am also new to the forum and to the Subaru world so keep it simple if you could thank you
  9. I tend to count on my male folks to let me know when to stress about my car or not. Left to my own devices every little noise would get my heart rate up. Well, now my rear differential tried to explode on me. Can't even drive the Baja up the driveway to get it into the garage. Something about the clutch not having enough friction. The boys are coming round for beers and car work later so it is about to get pulled all apart. For now I have one picture of the crack in the rear differential. You'll note that there is oil actively leaking out of the rear differential so it wasn't that I lost lubrication and then it broke. Seems to me like one of those things that doesn't ever really happen. Anyone got any pointers or potential causes of the failure?
  10. I'm wondering what the spline count is on the front differential stub shafts of an XT6 transmission. Will EA81 axles slide right on, or do I need to swap out the stub shafts for EA81 parts?
  11. Does anyone have instructions or know of a how-to describing the ins and outs of rebuilding an EA82 rear LSD? I think it's about time to give mine a refresh, but I'm not sure which clutch plates to order and a rebuilding guide would be very helpful. I have already tried searching for Datsun-based guides, but didn't find what I was looking for.
  12. Does anyone have instructions or know of a how-to describing the ins and outs of rebuilding an EA82 rear LSD? I think it's about time to give mine a refresh, but I'm not sure which clutch plates to order and a rebuilding guide would be very helpful. I have already tried searching for Datsun-based guides, but didn't find what I was looking for.
  13. Happy Thursday. No problems involved with this thread. Simply trying to identify where the rear diff. came from on my GL. Correct me if it's stock... I don't believe it is. '87 GL Wagon - converted to AWD. Stock hub drilled to 6-lug. Rear diff p# 722011002 Gear ratio - 4.111 Now, which differential w/ that part number and ratio out of the bag, would work with the original hubs of the GL? Pics if requested.
  14. Automatic Transmissions' With shared or independent Differential Lubrication. Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups: ► First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually "Thins" the ATF (getting Lower Viscosity) and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and many more. ► Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense (Getting Higher Viscosity), and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and many more. Why is this very important? Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period. However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant. So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those detergent ATF additives for short term use only, in example to do a chemical cleansing of the internals prior to do a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF. ► Important Note: Not all the ATF in the market, has the same additive package nor are suitable for all the automatic transmissions; in fact, if you use the Wrong ATF, the Transmission might get damage, such like premature wear and shearing; Always follow the Manufacturer's recommendation on the Manual. In my case, for my Wife's car which has a version of the 4EAT, I pour Valvoline's High Mileage ATF plus a quart of Lucas Transmission fix additive, and that combo makes the transmission to work smoothly and flawlessly; I do change all the Transmission ATF with said combo, on a yearly basis. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.
  15. Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-)
  16. 2002 Forester 5MT, 205,000km I am trying to remove my Rear Differential, to fix it (I think that one of the output-shaft taper-roller bearings is worn - I have a rear-end rumble & about 1mm radial & axial play on the output-shaft at the diff). But I am stuck on the first step of the procedure. I cannot get the suspension lateral-links (front & rear) disconnected. I cannot remove the long outer lateral-link bolt (#20540AA000). This has a 19mm hex head, and is about 150mm (6") long. I can remove the 19mm nut, and I can turn the actual bolt with difficulty, using lots of lubricant and a long breaker-bar. But the bolt will not move along its length to remove it. I've tried hammering on the loosened nut, but the bolt won't move. How can I remove this bolt? I'm reluctant to use heat, as this will destroy the rubber bushings. But maybe that doesn't matter, as it could be that a rubber bushing is seized onto the bolt any way. Any advice for me? Thanks. EDITED to add "a rear-end-rumble"
  17. I just had my 2007 Outback with manual transmission, 107K repaired. I took it in because of a whining noise that typically correlates with central differential bearings. No other symptoms. The Subaru dealership replaced the bearings, the central differential, and the gears. Upon picking the vehicle up, I asked to inspect the old parts with the mechanic. The only visible damage/wear was to the bearings as noted by the mechanic. The gears looked good. The differential had some signs of heat coloration. The dealership said they replaced all the above parts because of the mileage and to prevent a return visit. The mechanic pointed out the heat marks, and stated that often after a repair of just the bearings, he finds other components may not match up(gears). The end result being I would have it back soon for another repair. While I partially agree with his logic, I have a hard time replacing parts with no damage. Should I be appreciative of this preventive maintenance, or was I taken for a ride?! Thanks for you insight, Townsend.
  18. OK, here goes. Have a bad driver side front diff oil seal. Doing the CVs while I'm at it. Background- had a center diff bearing fail (shatter) 20K ago, split the tranny, found the bearing fragments and replaced no problem (also found some other old fragments of hardened metal from something else which failed and was repaired prior to my owning it). Kept the old seals and slid the halves back over the diff seals. Did not reset the backlash with the differential side retainers when it went back together (pops reassembled while I was at work, he couldn't help himself). Must I pull the trans to do this job like the manual calls out, or can I simply pull the side retainer, swap the seal & O-ring and reinstall the side retainer to the same exact point (indexing its original position/turns)? If I must pull the trans its all good, have all the necessary tools/equipment.
  19. Hi - this is a 2005 Outback - the VDC (R 3.0) We took a trip to NYC last weekend, and after two days on the rough roads our Outback began to drip a heavy oil from the rear differential crossmember support bar bushing. This crossmember is located forward of the axles and rear of the U-joint. There is a bushing about 2.5" diameter on each end of this 18"(+-) crossmember. I did not realize that bushings had fluid in them. Is it critical I replace them with the OEM bushing, which I have not been able to find? What I see online appear to be solid. Is there a performance upgrade which you can recommend ? Does this have a different name I might search with? Thanks for your help. Craig
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