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pontoontodd last won the day on September 14 2016

pontoontodd had the most liked content!

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About pontoontodd

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    Subaru Nut

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Loves Park, IL
  • Referral
    search engine, lifted subarus and other mods
  • Biography
    Mechanical engineer, off road racer, trail ride and pre run with Subarus.
  • Vehicles
    1999 Legacy Outback, 1996 Impreza

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  1. Putting smaller (276mm) front brakes on the 2002 white Outback so I can put 15" wheels on later. Got a 6MT/R180 swap on order for the 99 Outback, should be in Friday.
  2. Couldn't find stock spring rate right off, but 200#/in sounds about right. Rear suspension has about a 2:3 motion ratio, so that's effectively 2*2*200/(3*3)=89#/in at the wheel, which seems low, I think the springs on the struts are usually around 150 stock. You would want to shoot for 150-200 at the wheel, probably closer to 200, more than that and it will start getting harsh. The 450 would be exactly 200 equivalent so it might not be terrible. Another way to look at it is you'll have say 900# sprung weight on each rear tire. 2:3 motion ratio means 1350# at the spring. With no preload a 450#/in spring will compress 3", which is probably more than half the shock travel. With an inch or two of preload you'd probably be sitting about where you want to be. The stock springs are 11" long installed, so you could get a 12" long spring 400-500#/in. I would be tempted to go with a 400#/in 14" long spring to make it a little softer and give you lots of bump travel but it might coil bind. If 3" ID springs would work you can get those for under $100 each, you'd have to measure. Might be able to find something on that Moog chart that would work, in that case they're usually under $50 each.
  3. There is a company called Subiefish that makes adapters to fit Tacoma struts on the rear of a Subaru. They say you get some lift and the Tacoma Bilstein shocks are fairly cheap and are much stronger than the Subaru rear struts. Sounds like you might be able to just use the Subaru top hat and the Tacoma spring and strut.
  4. We parted out my friend's 2000 Forester over the weekend. Took all the body panels, lights, suspension, drivetrain and more out, left most of the interior in. The shell with the interior weighs 1200#. Sunday we pulled all the suspension off his 2001 Forester he drove back from Oregon and put the long travel struts, long front CV axles and tie rods, front control arms, etc on it. We still have to put oil pan and gas tank guards on it but we can probably reuse the guards from his 2000. Still working on long travel parts for my 2001 Outback. Will hopefully have money soon for the STI drivetrain conversion for my 99 Outback, have a plan for replacing the center diff with low range.
  5. Appreciate the brush tip, I may have to look at that on mine. I replaced the blower motor in my 99 Outback when it finally stopped working with one out of a 2002 Outback parts car. It is still working but it seems weak. I am willing to buy a new one, wondering if anyone knows what brand has the best performance, or if any of the blower motors on Rockauto fit. Specifically the VDO blower on Rockauto is twice the price of the rest, I'd be willing to pay it if it pushes a lot more air. Looks like Subaru wants $130 or $143, anyone know the difference between 72210AC150 and 72240AC000?
  6. I've been thinking it would be much easier to just start with an STI than do what I'm doing, you'd have good power and a strong drivetrain without swapping in six cylinders and six speeds. Until recently I have only seen them as low as $8000 and that's with some body damage and a lot of miles. One of my friends who has one was just telling me he has seen them fairly cheap on auction sites with body damage, but we're going to do that regardless. Looks like three have sold in the last two months on ebay for $3000-5000 without significant damage. There are a couple on another auction site right now with 50-100k miles with hail damage and clear titles. So it looks like they're much cheaper than I thought. I would put different struts on it and might have to space the subframes, but that's probably less work than an engine and/or trans swap. Could sell the stock struts if they're decent. Not sure if I could find decent off road tires for 17 or 18" wheels to fit over the brakes. Wouldn't have the interior space we're used to. Thoughts?
  7. pontoontodd

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    Excellent recovery. How long did that take?
  8. Definitely if you're trying to do traditional off roading (slow crawling), a truck or Jeep is the way to go for all the reasons you listed. I wonder how much of our body problems have been due to corrosion and how much of the problem is fatigue. I've never had to fix the body on my Impreza, it is originally from Colorado so it's not super rusty. The same corner of the Forester has come apart twice now, I would think if it was due to insufficient spot welds it would have held after being fully welded. I have had rear shock/strut mount portions of the body come apart on a couple Subarus now and seemed mainly where they were rusty. Points toward corrosion as the main cause. In the next few years we'll find out, we should have a rust free Outback and Forester with long travel by the end of the year. Also, full frame doesn't mean it doesn't break, one of the main problems with the Raptor was that the frame would crack. More easily reinforced than a unibody for sure. Everything fairly stock, Subarus definitely ride better than any truck or Jeep I've been in. We usually go 2-3 times as fast in stock Subarus and I just can't drive at a Jeep pace. Most trails within 1000 miles of my house, even at off road parks, can be driven in a fairly stock Subaru, so I'd rather just do them at a quick pace for more entertainment. I think I really need to get a ride in a decent pre runner or two and see how it compares to what I have now. For say a $10k budget that might be the way to go. Similar vintage Tacomas and Rangers are similar curb weight to our Subarus. Certainly full size trucks are heavier. The stock(ish) Subaru seems to be the way to go on a ~$2000 budget. We have also beaten the crap out of my 96 Impreza, it's amazing where that thing will go and be fairly comfortable doing it. Another big advantage is a few guys can each buy one and have common spares and tools.
  9. Doing something different is more interesting. Really we got into the Subarus since the stock Subarus ride much better off road than fairly stock Jeeps and trucks. With similar money in either for aftermarket suspension, maybe the truck is the way to go, real low range, lockers, bigger tires, etc.
  10. Sorta what I was getting at. Biggest downsides I can see would be the increased height making it harder to fit (rarely) and not corner quite as well. My 99 Outback and 96 Impreza have both been up on two wheels, I can only imagine a pickup would be on its side or roof instead. Also, without making it super wide, a Tacoma with 4WD won't have the suspension travel we have in front because the axles are so short.
  11. We'll be parting out my friend's 2000 Forester in a month or so. Definitely taking the suspension off, probably axles, most likely trans/driveshaft/rear diff. If he gets a replacement with the same body style we'll take off the corner lights and probably fenders and hood. Probably at least the intake if not the whole engine. Anything else we should keep for a spare? Anything else anyone would want from the car? We've also been discussing a long term Subaru substitute. Seems you can get a decent long travel Ranger for $10k or so. Similar money to what we'd have in a Subaru with long travel suspension and an STI trans and rear end. I think the biggest downside would be the increased height not cornering as well and occasionally not fitting under trees. Thoughts? I'm still doing the long travel on the 2002 Outback, possibly a manual swap too, this would be a few years down the road.
  12. First set used .120" wall 4130, never bent or anything but went to .187" wall so we had grind stock for the bushings. Let me know how yours turn out.
  13. I don't know of any stock or aftermarket longer arms for the multilink. Should be easy to make though. In most of the US (including where I live) there are no vehicle safety inspections for passenger cars.
  14. pontoontodd

    17 1/2 in cv axle rod

    Assuming it's a Subaru 2.5 and five speed trans, I'd just pick up a front CV axle for something like a 99 Outback, Forester, or Impreza. ABS rings are about all that changed on the EJ axles and you probably don't care. This might provide a lot more confusion than help: http://goworldparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Worldparts-CV-Axles_Quick-Specs_May-20151.pdf If you can use a standard Subaru EJ front axle, these seem to hold up well and have more plunge travel than most: http://autoshafts.com/i-23374251-cv-axle-shaft.html
  15. Hopefully they could be about an inch longer while still using the stock trailing arms and CV axles. Something to measure later. The top link is short, an extra inch on that would go a long ways.