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pontoontodd

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pontoontodd last won the day on December 31 2018

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About pontoontodd

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    Certified Subaru Nut

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Loves Park, IL
  • Referral
    search engine, lifted subarus and other mods
  • Biography
    Mechanical engineer, off road racer, trail ride and pre run with Subarus.
  • Vehicles
    1999 Legacy Outback, 1996 Impreza

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  1. We didn't measure, but it definitely looked like it caused a lot of toe change. I think it is set up for roll understeer, probably because they figure it's a midsize family station wagon.
  2. Yes, I understand it will work for you, just pointing out how I can't use that much bump travel without some major changes. Also keep in mind full bump for us is usually landing off a jump or hitting a big rock so the tire sidewall is already mostly compressed.
  3. That's excellent! How well secured are your trailing arm pivots? Just wondering if those will cause a bind or limit you in some way. Also you should tack weld those pivots back on the subframe to make sure your axles are going to allow that much travel. What is limiting your droop travel? I'm not going to do that right now but I'm definitely going to think about doing something like it. One minor issue is the exhaust goes right through where you're putting those pivots. My first thought was to narrow the diff mount and straighten the exhaust. It looks like you're mainly getting more bump travel than I'm planning on. My tires already rub the wheelwells at the full compression I'm planning on so it would take a lot of work to get another 3-4" inches of compression like you show. Also it should be good for crawling but landing off a jump our tires will compress enough that the rear diff would be underground. Not the best bumpstop.
  4. pontoontodd

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    Those videos are a good demonstration of the VDC system. Your two alternatives if you don't have traction control or lockers are momentum and articulation.
  5. Yes, I would make all (two or three) of those lateral links the same length and roughly parallel if you're just going for maximum travel. Ideally you'd want some camber change so you'd want the upper link shorter than the lowers and at a different angle but that might limit your travel. Bump / roll steer is another story, the stock suspension has a surprising amount and you could get rid of it with long parallel links. Probably best for long travel soft suspension, but in some cases the roll steer would be good. That front lateral link does twist an impressive amount. I was figuring if you replaced all the bushings with ball joints including (especially) the trailing arm bushing, you could use just two lateral links. That trailing arm bushing is pretty soft.
  6. If you are planning on modifying the subframe at all, I would just make all the lateral links the same length as the longest (rear) links. That will reduce the plunge of the CVs a lot. If you are planning on using ball joints or rod ends instead of bushings, I'd get rid of the forward/lower lateral links completely, they'll just cause the suspension to bind. So in that case you'd just have to make the top links with ball joints or rod ends and about as long as the rear links. We just mocked up some links, I took a few pictures but it's nothing you'd want to drive on. I just got a set of bushings yesterday so I'll be making the real links in the next few weeks. I'd like to get those done and the shocks lengthened in the next month or so. Should be a good upgrade for you, it'll also give you bolt on rear wheel bearings. Will you have a different bolt pattern front and rear?
  7. Yes, same struts on both cars, slightly softer springs on the rear of the Forester. Need to do some suspension tuning, make the shocks softer on the Forester since it's lighter.
  8. Worth it? You're definitely not going to earn money with it somehow, so no. It does make the cars a lot more entertaining to drive though and you can cover more ground in a day and see more things so in that sense we think it's worth it. Would I do it just for crawling? If you really want a lot of articulation for crawling with a Subaru, it seems like the way to go is to use Toyota transfer case(s) and axles (there are a few build threads on this forum like that), so why not just buy a Toyota?
  9. If you removed your shocks and bump stops you'd have more wheel travel and articulation. Your ride quality and ground clearance would be terrible though. I'm not aware of any shocks that would bolt in that would give you more travel but there must be something. You could start here: https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/dimensions/ There are definitely better four wheel drives than a Subaru for crawling but I'm not aware of anything that can go as fast, ride well, and hold up on rough terrain. Maybe an old full size car, but those are just rear wheel drive. Unless you're talking about something like Ford Raptor, but those are still $30,000 used.
  10. With longer links and shocks, which I'm working on, it will have 11-12" of travel, about the same as my 99. You could remove the shocks and bumpstops, that would give you more travel for zero money. Removing the swaybar doesn't give you any more travel, it would help the articulation but not much considering how soft that swaybar is. There are probably some cheaper shocks than what I'm using that would give you more travel but you have to make longer links or figure something out with the axles to get much more travel than stock.
  11. Yes but I've heard they don't hold up well. Plus as I said the stock links are so short you can't get much more travel even without the axles.
  12. pontoontodd

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    I was just thinking the other day about using old radiators or condensers as traction mats.
  13. We did some mockup for more travel with the rear multilink suspension. The limitation in droop is the inner CV bottoming out since most of the lateral links are much shorter than the axle. Made some slightly longer than stock links to get a little more droop. Here you can see it's a couple inches more droop than we had before (old on left, new on right). Full droop: Full bump: This is 11-12" of wheel travel. I need to get longer shafts and bodies for the shocks and make the longer links. I'll also need to stick the top of the shock inside the car. Thought about making a drop mount at the spindle but it's already the lowest point of the suspension. Got a complete multilink rear crossmember/suspension/axles which helps to look at. What's really limiting the rear travel (even with the struts) are the inner CV joints bottoming out since the links are shorter than the axles, the wheel pulls inward at droop. Even if the CV had more travel, the links are getting pretty vertical at full droop and really pulling the tire in. Thought about making longer links, which would probably require making a new rear subframe. Some of the axles we've gotten have 30 degrees of angle capacity at the inboard CV. If you had links about as long as the axles and plenty of body clearance, 22" of wheel travel should be possible. I think the easiest way to do that would be a body lift. For every inch of up travel you wanted to add, you'd have to add 2" of body lift with the same strut top mounts though, the compressed length of the spring/strut is going to be about 1" longer for every extra inch of travel. Also at full bump the bottom of the wheel is about even with the bottom of the body now. The tires get fairly compressed when landing so at some point you'd just start bottoming out on the crossmembers. I already hit the front skidplate on the 1999 Outback occasionally on the face of a jump.
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