sirtokesalot

3 hours start to finish engine trans diff driveshaft axles mirrors ecu tcu fuel pump radiator and condensor out. nothing els worth keeping. and thats including driving it out of the woods and cleanup time.

well i started i opted to just unbolt the trans and pull em seperatly. stripping a car is so much quicker when you dont care about the car the parts are coming out of.

i do not have a lift im honestly not opposed to cutting the subframe and radiator support ither. as far as junk yards not many left. chuck and eddies is prety much the last pick and pull i know of. boyds in norwich will still give a good price on a stripped out car. there wont be much left in this one thats still good. the driveline was the only good part of the car.

im pulling the engine trans and diff from a part car and sending the car off to the yard. i dont want to lay under the car and manipulate the transmission down. will it come out the top still bolted to the engine? 2001 legacy sedan

well for an update ive been driving it with the sensor on the intake manifold the car has been driving great. still not hearing any knocking by ear. seeing as no one has any input im guessing it must be fine to leave it like this.

im prety sure its related to the knock sensor i have questions though. as the title says it has no power until around 2500 rpm then like a light switch bam it takes off full power. if i unplug the knock sensor it has normal power at all rpm. i did some experimenting and moved the knock sensor onto the intake manifold and with the sensor mounted on the intake it does not pull power away and i can drive the car normally. i do not hear any knocking occurring with the sensor here. would it be safe to run the car with the sensor mounted to the intake? im 95% sure the sensor is reporting piston slap as the engine does do that. i do not hear any real knocking though beyond the piston slap. it is a 2001 outback with the 2.5 i have a small collection of used oem knock sensors and aftermarket ones they all work normally on a 2001 forester i have and have same issue when installed on the 2001 outback.

i dont understand why the brake is tied to that circuit could something in the brake section be causing them to come on?

the car had a reman one when we got it we tried a used one from a car i know it worked on first then bought another one from part store.

ive been trying to figure this one out for a couple months now. battery and brake light come on and go out together intermittently sometimes stay on for a bit before going out. has brand new alternator and brand new battery when the lights come on it is still charging at 14 volts. have taken engine grounds apart and cleaned all grounds on block took grounds off firewall and cleaned those did the ground next to the battery to the body what els can cause these lights to come on and go out together? its a 2004 outback

i use this style. it is an o2 spacer can be found on ebay.

its a 2001 outback. it was a firestone. i know the rear only has a tow adjustment. do they make an aftermarket cam bolt that can add more adjustment? as far as i can tell its never been in an accident. and aside from buying adjustable camber arms is there a cam bolt i can get for those? i know the front camber is adjustable my buddy said they wont touch it unless u ask specifically. i did buy a lifetime alignment so i can get it redone free anytime. as far as front caster i saw a video the other night where someone loosened the subframe and shifted it to get the caster to even out left to right. im gonna guess this is my only option to try and even out caster unless i got expensive adjuster plates? all in all the car does drive amazingly i kinda just want to see it all green on the chart

i just finished replacing every control arm and bushing on the suspention front and rear and got an alignment. i dont think they did the front camber adjustment why would caster be out of spec 3.0 on drivers side witch is in spec and 3.6 on passenger out of spec. and the rear passenger tow adjustment was maxed out and could only get to 0.24 drivers side rear is 0.01 rear camber is also out at 2.0 and 2.2.

so does the lack of an answer mean it wont work?

currently waiting to have my cousin buy the transmission until were 100% sure it will work.

here is the code for the possible replacement transmission. i can get the rear diff with it as well would the trans function in a 1998 outback? also would i need the flex plate or would the one on the outback currently work? TZ102ZA5AA-GN