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GeneralDisorder last won the day on January 7

GeneralDisorder had the most liked content!

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About GeneralDisorder

  • Rank
    Elite Master of the Subaru
  • Birthday 09/12/1979

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    Performance / repair technician. Shop owner.
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  • Biography
    Superior Soobie and Import (SSI) LLC. Owner.
  • Vehicles
    91 SS, 90 L, 83 hatch, '69 GMC, '86 Trans Am

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  1. Yes. If there is no evidence of metal in the pan or in the filter (cut it), then just get new rings. NPR Japanese rings are a good choice. Make sure you check the end gaps. DO NOT HONE. Do not touch the cylinder walls. GD
  2. Don't mess with the bottom end - or if you do have it professionally line honed and assembled by a proper Subaru experienced engine builder. Trust me you don't want to attempt a block split without any experience. The chances of it ending up better than not touching it at all are extremely small. GD
  3. GeneralDisorder

    91 loyale fuel injector not getting enough power

    Are you testing across the injector or from injector power to chassis ground? These injectors are likely low impedance peak-and-hold units. GD
  4. No. The distributor is just an optical pickup. It has no ability to trigger the ignition coil. You need a carb distributor and matching coil. What you should have done is just go to a LINK standalone and use whatever sensors you like for the FI. This would have retained the fuel injection and gave it universal compatibility with a HUGE variety of sensors. GD
  5. There really is no significant performance to be had on the NA 2.5's. Volumetric efficiency is already quite high. GD
  6. Just tune out the code. Get a Tactrix cable and pull the rom off it. GD
  7. If they are pitted from rust, etc. then replace them. If they aren't just clean them in some mineral spirits. DO NOT wire wheel them. You will remove the anti-friction coating they have. Use Amsoil assembly lube (a LOT of it) for head bolt lube after chasing the block threads and making sure they are brain-surgery clean. GD
  8. A normal good-running NA engine will throw about 190 compression in the car. After sitting I would expect it to be lower. As long as they are even the number doesn't matter. If I pulled a cold compression from an engine that had sat on a shelf I wouldn't be surprised to see all of them around 100. GD
  9. The gaskets are only $100 retail from Subaru and if you buy them online it's probably about $80 or less. You can resurface the heads yourself with sandpaper and glass. On the EJ22E you can do the HG's without even pulling off the valve covers. I would absolutely do them prior to installation. GD
  10. Agree. Unknown rebuilds I would not trust. It takes a special eye for Subaru split-block rebuilding. This isn't your grandads small block (those aren't as simple as people think either). GD
  11. If it's got over 200k then you SHOULD do the HG's on that motor. The EJ22's will eventually blow. Usually between 250k and 300k. One of my loaners has 330k and it blew the HG's at 285k. Was never abused. One owner with meticulous maintenance and mobile 1 synthetic it's whole life. GD
  12. It's not for the un-initiated.... splitting the block that is. I don't even bother with NA engines though. Just get a reman block from Subaru and chuck the old one in the box for the $200 core. It isn't worth the time, effort, or money to rebuild them. The Subaru reman blocks come with a 3yr / 36k warranty. GD
  13. I'm just relating my customer's experience. And I hate to see anyone supporting PRE. I've seen them blow up a LOT of engines. Their builds are awful and their tuning is absolutely horrific. GD
  14. It's possible for a valve strike to crack a piston or break the valve off which will destroy the cylinder. GD