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GeneralDisorder last won the day on February 15

GeneralDisorder had the most liked content!

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About GeneralDisorder

  • Rank
    Elite Master of the Subaru
  • Birthday 09/12/1979

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    Performance / repair technician. Shop owner.
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  • Biography
    Superior Soobie and Import (SSI) LLC. Owner.
  • Vehicles
    91 SS, 90 L, 83 hatch, '69 GMC, '86 Trans Am

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  1. I wish I could. I hate working on EVO's. But the owners are crazy and they bring in 50% more labor for virtually any job that isn't spark plugs. English Racing makes an absolute killing off those fools and I've witnessed their "work" first hand. No comment. GD
  2. Take the car to a competent shop. You have screwed the pooch. GD
  3. The 99 block will say EJ25 on it, it will have a square shaped dish in the piston, and it will have an 8 bolt bell-housing. A 98 will have a 4 bolt bell-housing, and a 2000 will have flat top pistons. 99 is unique having D pistons and an 8 bolt. GD
  4. Easily tuned out with a Tactrix cable. But illegal. GD
  5. GeneralDisorder

    Weberized ea81 stalls when turning left

    It does sound like the float needs adjustment - but also check your fuel pressure. With a gauge. GD
  6. That's too high. What pistons are you using? And what heads? There was many options discussed in this thread but you didn't specify what you actually are now using. GD
  7. Point in fact - it's absolutely too much trouble. For the same amount of work you could do something that's actually FUN. Like swap an LS into an older F body or even a C/K truck/blazer. And yeah - it's quite a bit of trouble. Very few people out there that can do this in a weekend and have it running (I'm saying this AS ONE OF THEM). For most that attempt it - they spend a month or more (sometimes years) getting them operational. The end result isn't that worthwhile. The rest of the car is mechanically unable to support the power of something like a 20G turbo. That would tear the Loyale in half like Jesse Ventura with a phone book. GD
  8. I vote for screwy sending unit. GD
  9. It depends on how you do it. Full swap with 5x114 or 04 axles, auto driveline, and keep the R160. I would say about $4500 on the low end, and upwards of 7-8k on the high end figuring wheels, tires, etc. GD
  10. Depends on what you mean by less power. The 2 liter makes power higher in the rpm range. Honestly the EJ25 turbo is a much weaker engine than the 207. And some 207's come stock with forged pistons. There are plenty of 2 liter engines that make a TON more power (somewhat reliably) than any of the EJ's. The 4G63 is easily capable of much more. 500 is a low number for the 4G. The 207 revs faster, climbs higher, and will handle more boost stock due to thicker cylinder walls. GD
  11. GeneralDisorder

    ECS Light

    There's three connectors under the dash - you unplug the pair that's plugged in, and connect the one that was free to it's mate from the pair. This resets the light for another 60k - then you swap them back again. You repeat every 60k. It's a reminder to clean the EGR. It's in the service manual. GD
  12. As far as casting differences - the 25D block (96 to 98, 4 bolt bell-housing) has some differences in the water jackets around the cylinder liners making them more prone to head gasket abrasion. You can easily tell these blocks because they say EJ25 and they only have a 4 bolt bell-housing. From 99 up to 2002, you find the block (251/253) will have 8 bolts and a 3/4" block breather nipple in the right rear corner (sitting in the car orientation). From 2003 on the block is essentially the same but the PCV valve is located in the block instead of the manifold so the nipple is threaded. Beyond that I don't believe there are significant changes to the block itself on up till 2012 after which the EJ25 was discontinued except for the STI. Then you have the 255/257 turbo block which differs in that it has cylinder wall support bridges at the 12 and 6 positions to reinforce the cylinders. Although this is (IMO) of dubious utility because the real problem is that too much cylinder pressure will crack the liner around the area of least support which is where the cylinder wall support has a relief for the head bolts (at about 10 and 2) (ask me how I know....). I doubt there is significant advantage to the "semi closed deck" and when we really want to put in more than ~26 psi of boost we install Darton sleeves and the closed deck bridges are superfluous at that point because the thicker liner handles the rigidity and pressure requirements of 27+ psi. Even the "closed deck" modifications that some people buy in on are really just a half-baked solution. The real solution is to bore out the liners and install heavy walled sleeves. Then you don't even need to close the deck - which has ramifications in that the ability to flow coolant is reduced. It is cheaper but again like the factory semi-closed arrangement it leaves the thin factory liners, and generally requires boring to the next oversize due to shifting of the bore to deck alignment in the process of installing the deck plating which leaves the liners even thinner..... don't get me started on this nonsense! GD
  13. Honestly the 5 speed is junk, the hail damage really sucks to repair, and an "STI engine swap" is meaningless. 90k on it just means it's almost ready or already has failed ring lands. It will need a proper forged piston engine build, a 6 speed swap, and a whole bunch of body repair. IMO that's worth about half what they are asking or less. GD
  14. Not worth it. You can find an nice STI from a private party for around 10k. Maybe less. Turbo upgraded WRX's are everywhere. I build them weekly almost. The trans is weak and with hail damage.... pass. Find an STI because what you really want is the 6 speed. They didn't swap any wiring. There's no reason to. It's virtually the same. GD