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GeneralDisorder

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GeneralDisorder last won the day on April 16

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About GeneralDisorder

  • Rank
    Elite Master of the Subaru
  • Birthday 09/12/1979

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    rick@superiorsoobie.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.superiorsoobie.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland
  • Occupation
    Performance / repair technician. Shop owner.
  • Referral
    LOL
  • Biography
    Superior Soobie and Import (SSI) LLC. Owner.
  • Vehicles
    91 SS, 90 L, 83 hatch, '69 GMC, '86 Trans Am

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  1. There's no knowledge to gain here. You might get away with it and you might not. Depends on the surface condition of the block and heads, and how accurately the gasket is located with respect to where it was the last time. The gasket is there (obviously) to take up imperfections in the surface of the block and the surface of the head. That's it's job. If the surfaces were *perfect* then no gasket would be required. In fact many nitro-methane top-fuel engines don't use gaskets - they use highly accurate and highly engineered mirror finish surfaces instead. So if the gasket surface is uniform, the gasket is located exactly where it was the previous install, and the gasket did not experience plastic deformation - you will be successful. If one or more of those qualifications is not true you won't. There is NO mystery here. It's a bad gamble, and one that you might win or lose. But a gamble not worth the $100 savings for the loss of two days worth of work if you lose. There's no significant data to be gathered from one trial of this hypothesis. You would have to repeat the experiment many times over to have any useful statistics - which you clearly are not in a position to perform. One anecdotal success or failure does not a scientific theory make. It would therefore be a waste of time. GD
  2. Who's time is worth this experiment? You are going to risk ~16 hours of labor for $100. What's your time worth exactly? GD
  3. GeneralDisorder

    EA81 Won't Idle When Warm

    Highly suggest you toss the Hitachi over the fence. Put a Weber 32/36 DGEV on it and be done with it. GD
  4. We have used Foreign Engines Inc. in Lynwood, WA on many occasions. GD
  5. Amsoil Break-In oil: https://www.amsoil.com/p/break-in-oil-sae-30--brk/ GD
  6. Me either. But common sense would say that if you have *never* heard of someone not adhering to the new car break in procedure and thus causing some kind of failure or voiding some kind of warranty then clearly there isn't one. With millions of cars sold annually there would be a LOT of problems if a specific break in procedure were required on the part of the consumer. GD
  7. We don't break them in at all anymore. Now that we have a chassis dyno in the facility we run them about 10 miles on the dyno (after several heat cycles during start up testing) and then we tune them at WOT and hand the keys to the customer. We do this with break in oil in them and ask the customer return in 500 to 1000 miles for the first oil change. We give no stipulations on how they should be driven other than they should not be timid with it. There's no "break in" on a new car from the dealer is there? Why should my engines be any different if they are built to the same or better quality? GD
  8. The blue filters made for Subaru of America are made by Honeywell. The parent company of Fram. WIX is made by Affinia. GD
  9. It's more labor than a 4 cylinder - which currently goes for $2500. The H6 would be more in the realm of $3500 - $4000 when you consider cylinder head machine work, labor, etc. You can frequently get the H6 JDM engines for half what a typicaly H4 goes for. Usually about $1200. They are cheap and low mileage. Due to lots of supply and relatively low demand. The math is easy from there. GD
  10. My shop, as is the case with most dealerships, will not perform HG's on any H6's. Replacement JDM engines are CHEAP. Much cheaper than we would charge for a HG job. In our opinion, the EZ30's are good for about 175k to 225k and then they get replaced. GD
  11. 10 shouldn't have a filter IIRC. They stopped doing the filters around 07/08 or so. The Amsoil EA15K12 works in place of the stock trans spin on filter and is half the price. GD
  12. The engine makes about 175 brake HP. That's from a 2.5L 4 valve-per-cylinder engine. Scale that up - that's the equivalent of a 5.0 (302) Mustang making 350 brake HP - the Fox Body era 302 made between 245 and 300 HP in stock form. On those it's common to change the exhaust and cam and get up to around 350..... as you can see the Subaru engine is basically already there. You have only 14.7 psi at sea level to push air into the engine..... the little 2.5 is about as volumetrically efficient as it's going to get (well above 90% at WOT). Thus gains to be had are minimal and VERY expensive. Cams could move the power up in the RPM range and you might show an increase in brake HP - probably wouldn't be able to feel it. You would have to tune the computer to take advantage (more cost) and the higher RPM wouldn't be accounted for in the transmission or rear end gearing limiting it's use. To turbocharge an NA model is going to start at about $20,000 to have it done at a shop. Vastly easier and more economical to just buy a turbo model of the same chassis. But honestly the turbo 05/06 OBXT is a pile of dung. They had severe reliability problems unless upgraded at huge expense. The NA models aren't much better - being early CANBUS cars they have..... problems. GD
  13. Well - we can both agree that the thread lubricant goes in as a liquid. After many years of heat cycle it definitely doesn't come out as a liquid anymore. It dries out. So whatever lubricant is used loses it's ability to condense back out into a liquid. Not being a chemist I myself I'm not sure of the exact property that defines this phase change and inability to go back but it ends up "dried out" and that means that some component of it turned to a gas and whatever was left wasn't able to absorb it again. Leading to the hissing and foul smell that we experience. At least that's my theory. Rod bearing failure - was the block main-line honed to restore the clearances? The biggest issue I find is that the main line (especially on #2,3, and 4) gets compressed along the axis of the cylinders and the resulting excessive clearances end in rod bearing failure when the excessive main clearances drop oil pressure to the rods. GD
  14. Likely - and essentially what I always assumed was happening. You have 35mm of thread engagement on the head bolts and oil is used to seal the threads so the bolt is acting like a piston that is compressing the air in the blind hole beneath it. In some cases it leaks past the threads, and in some cases it just waits many years till someone loosens it. There may be additional off-gassing of the thread lubricant/sealant that further raises pressure over time as it changes from a liquid to a gas and expands in volume once the engine is heat cycled and it's vaporization temperature has been exceeded. GD
  15. There is no additional performance to be had. They are already as volumetrically efficient as they are going to get. GD
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