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GeneralDisorder last won the day on January 21

GeneralDisorder had the most liked content!

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About GeneralDisorder

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    Performance / repair technician. Shop owner.
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  • Biography
    Superior Soobie and Import (SSI) LLC. Owner.
  • Vehicles
    91 SS, 90 L, 83 hatch, '69 GMC, '86 Trans Am

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  1. Clutch life varies greatly depending on driving habits. $2300 is a little high but you are in CA and at a dealership...... so likely about right. Find an independent Subaru specialist. Probably cost around $1500. There's no magic in replacing a clutch. GD
  2. GeneralDisorder

    Service manuals

    Factory Service Manual (FSM). GD
  3. GeneralDisorder


    Kinda depends. Yes in many ways they are better - but for raw low end torque the Weber still wins. GD
  4. Just have the Subaru dealer order the entire knuckle or the bushings if it's the bolted style. GD
  5. GeneralDisorder

    1988 1800

    The distributor contains the crank and cam optical pickups that the ECM uses to sync up and fire the ignition and injection. Make sure it had power, ground, and check the square wave output with a scope. Likely a power or ground issue. Check all the power and ground circuits for the ECM. GD
  6. GeneralDisorder

    Loyale Transmission MT5 FWD

    The best bet for fluid is the Subaru HPGO. It's about $12 a quart. Shifts excellent. Motul Gear 300 is better but at $25 per liter - it's fairly expensive and unless you are throwing your STI around a track you are unlikely to notice the difference. GD
  7. GeneralDisorder

    Hydraulic lash adjuster placement

    That's as far as they go. The snap ring is there to keep them at the proper height. GD
  8. GeneralDisorder


    Why not just fix the EFI? They are quite reliable and simple systems. GD
  9. GeneralDisorder.

    Hi I was reading an older post for high compression issue with your comments, but my car have some differences.

    I have 1 Impreza 2008 automatic, without turbo 2.5, this is the car of my daughter.

    Before the fail 1 fan#1 start to keep on, all the time

    Fan #2 never turn on, inclusive when the a/c is turned on

    The boyfriend of my daughter had the idea of connect directly the fan#2, using 1 cable from sub fan relay #2 fan to failing fan #2

    1 day after this, the engine don't start.

    Then my simple OBDII send me errors P0038,P0301 & P0303, and the unique way to keep on the engine was accelerating the machine with the pedal

    I've verified the belt time was old and the belt time jump some dents.

    I've replaced the bearings and the time belt.

    Ive replaced the sub fan relay #2 

    Verified the voltages from ECM to injectors and are ok according manuals

    Changed crankshaft and camshaft sensors, and the issue still

    Changed the 2 oxygen sensors frontal central and left bottom sensor, issue still

    After change the time belt ,and adjust the marks of time ,the engine turn on without accelerate the pedal, normal turn on, but shaking and rough idling

    The actual symptoms are:

    1)Injector 1 & 3 are not receiving pulse was verified using a simple bulb light (auto zone is selling this bulb),injector 2&4 are working ok with the bulb

    2)Turning the key to on position the fan #1 keep all the time on

    3)I've verified the compression with the engine warmed to normal temperature: 240,235,230,230

    4)Rough idle and shaking when the machine is turned on, is worst when the machine reaches normal temperature

    5)Removing injector connector 1 & 3 not affect the shaking condition

    6)Removing injector connector 2 & 4 the machine fail and turned off

    Please give me some recommendation, this error is rare for me.



  10. GeneralDisorder

    Loyale Transmission MT5 FWD

    You need a hydraulic press and bearing splitters to disassemble the shaft for inspection. You can't determine anything with it together. GD
  11. Nope. The sensor generates a voltage input to the computer via a single wire. You can read this voltage with any meter. But the data is useless as I explained above. GD
  12. It's a narrow band sensor. It only reads 14.7 AFR and has an EXTREMELY non-linear response. "Spec" and "Book" and all that nonsense is to be considered but only within the confines of what the manufacturer's motivations were for publishing it. First and foremost and in some respects the ONLY thing that mattered to them was Emissions. NOT Economy, NOT Performance, NOT NOT NOT. The FIRST rule of tuning - Give the engine what IT wants. It might idle nicely at 14.7 - but it might not. It might want a richer idle - especially if it's worn (likely at this age), or modified. It EASY to tune idle speed and mixture - you alternately adjust speed, mixture, and timing till you hone in on what the ENGINE wants - NOT what you want, NOT what the spec says, NOT what other people say it should be - NOT NOT NOT. Additionally - you won't be able to get any transitionary data from it - your DVOM is too slow and you aren't recording it - your pump shot and your WOT mixture will be WAY too rich to be anything meaningful on the narrow band sensor - it will just be 950 mV and then swing to 50 mV when you decel. It will be a useless swinging pendulum of meaningless data. Because the non-linear response of the sensor means at anything that isn't between 14.5 and 14.9 the readings change so rapidly with such tiny changes in mV that there's no resolution to the data and it's useless. The sensor was designed for a high speed computerized closed loop - wherein the computer responds by counting cross-counts through 0.5v and it is desirable for the mixture to "dither" above and below 14.7 in order to "charge" the catalyst. The computer only cares about the sensor telling to add fuel or subtract fuel - in a dance it calls closed loop. This results in the dithering behavior and is by design. The narrow band sensor was designed SPECIFICALLY for this purpose - to facilitate closed loop operation by computer. It was NOT designed to be a tuning tool. That's what Wideband Sensors are for. GD
  13. Not true. A single wire narrow band sensor will create it's own 0-1v signal. It won't be useful in any real sense of the word, but it will not require power. GD
  14. Correct. Only Honda (and maybe not all of them) that I'm aware of has the trans fluid checked with engine off. GD