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GeneralDisorder

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GeneralDisorder last won the day on June 24

GeneralDisorder had the most liked content!

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About GeneralDisorder

  • Birthday 09/12/1979

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    rick@superiorsoobie.com
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    http://www.superiorsoobie.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland
  • Occupation
    Performance / repair technician. Shop owner.
  • Referral
    LOL
  • Biography
    Superior Soobie and Import (SSI) LLC. Owner.
  • Vehicles
    91 SS, 90 L, 83 hatch, '69 GMC, '86 Trans Am

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Elite Master of the Subaru

Elite Master of the Subaru (11/11)

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  1. It's all here in the forum all you need do is use the search function. Whole PDF documents have been written on the subject.
  2. The SPFI is quite reliable. I would adapt it to an EA81 if you have the engine and spare parts to do so. It's been done and documented 15+ years ago. GD
  3. They usually paint mark the drain plug and put a tamper sticker over the dipstick - thus you unbolt the TUBE and lift it and the dipstick out of the pan and suck out an (alarming) amount of oil and then take it in. Instant short block replacement on Subaru's dime. In no way is this an admission of having done this or assisted in doing this I'm ex-military. Someone says "Test" and my brain instantly starts down the path of how to rig the test. Especially when they send me out unsupervised...... all the tests in the military were open book. If you can't pass that kind of test you aren't trying at all. GD
  4. Disconnect it and ground the lead - does the gauge go all the way to hot? You got the right thermistor. If it doesn't try the other one. If it still doesn't you have gauge or wiring problems. GD
  5. I would have had just pulled the dipstick tube out of the pan and vampire pumped a quart of oil out of the thing for their stupid test. They want results.... no problem I got this. Hold my beer. GD
  6. Can you post a video of the noise in question? Valve guides can drop and stem seals can leak - it's certainly something we do see. Generally doesn't make noises though....... More prevalent on the later EJ engines - 2006 to 2012 engines seem to drop guides on the regular. We have seen some of the early FB25's that bend/burn exhaust valves due to this behavior. Just replaced the engine in a 2013 Outback that suffered a burnt valve from severe oil consumption (bad rings). Rebuilt the heads and replaced the short block with a reman from Subaru. The reman engine lasted 13,000 miles and then threw THREE rods. Subaru replaced the engine for free on that one. The customer elected to install a low mileage CVT transmission which unfortunately came with the pilot stub cut off the torque converter by the junk yard so he had to buy an additional $700 TC for it. We just delivered it back to him after it lost all the front control arm bushings and both rear wheel bearings at 164k. Super nice guy and doesn't deserve the grief that POS has put him through. GD
  7. Yeah everything has been increasing in price. Biggest difference is these engines rely heavily on RTV sealant. Parts of the head gasket require it, the entire timing chain cover system requires it, etc. It is labor intensive to clean all the old sealant off and it must be applied correctly - if it's not done properly on the HG's you will get oil in the radiator and milkshake in the oil. The early FB engines including your '14 Forester also had some unfortunate engineering issues with the machining of the front timing cover. We have had several occasions where we have had to get shim kits and re-shim the cam sensors after doing HG's on these early engines after they exhibit stalling, idling problems, misfiring, etc and start throwing bunch of codes after we take them apart and put them back together: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10052498-5734.pdf Starting to see why we don't like this junk? GD
  8. Used engines are a huge gamble for those years. They all had bad rings so unless you can verify from the VIN that the engine block was replaced under the oil consumption campaign..... not worth the gamble. Honestly a new short block from Subaru is only about $1800 retail. Best option by far. Do a head gasket job and swap in a new block. Typical cost is about $6500. Rebuilding is WAY not economically viable given the costs of labor. And there are zero performance options. Not a thing for NA powered Subaru's. Wouldn't be a good idea if there were - glass transmission and all. And then you have to consider what happens when the CVT goes out. Just did one on a 13 Outback. 134k - total catastrophic failure. Wouldn't move forward or back. Replacement cost about $7500 with a Subaru reman. GD
  9. You don't seem to get my point at all. Your perception of a "Toyota Driver" is irrelevant. It has no factual basis in reality, and is not a comment on the suitability of the product, it's quality, or reliability. It's entirely non-sequitur. This type of thinking will make you poorer. Are you ok with that? You are aware that Toyota owns a controlling interest in Subaru right? You pretty much already are the guy in the Toyota that you think is an A$$hole..... Trust me everyone that drives anything but a Japanese car sees you exactly the same as a Toyota, Mazda, or Infinity driver. While each year and model does need to be judged somewhat on it's individual merits, the whole Subaru product lineup has gone in the trash starting gradually in about 2005 and accelerating to terminal velocity after about 2010. The FA/FB engines are junk with worse problems than the EJ's, and the CVT transmission problems have cost of ownership far in excess of their fuel economy benefits over the life of the product ($8,000 transmission replacement buys a lot of fuel). And now Subaru has dropped the STI - about the only thing they had that was unique - and Toyota is eating their lunch with the Corolla GR. Once all the manufacturers go near fully EV Subaru will be left in the dustbin of history. Gone is the boxer engine, gone is the symmetrical AWD (all EV's with wheel motors already have this), and now they are going to lose what little credibility they had left with the long heritage of the STI and it's huge following. Honestly I think Toyota means to turn them into a puppet brand where they just badge engineer a Toyota as a Subaru and milk any remaining brand loyalty out of the husk before they toss it. GD
  10. It's not about being a loyalist to any brand. And Toyota's hold their value in the US as well - at least some of them anyway. Avalon's are cheap because no one looks at them. Camry's and 4-Runner's are expensive. Like I said though - do you research. Every make has problem children. Every model has problem years. Don't buy the first generation of anything. Stick with older stuff that has been proven. GD
  11. You can run anything with a LINK - including that TT. That said, I would suggest ditching the TT's for a single. Turbo technology has come so far since they made that junk it's not worth the trouble. Just get a larger single and simplify your life. GD
  12. I am continually amazed at (and derive exceptional levels of profit from) Name Branditis as I've come to call it. Lets get this straight: 1. Subaru is a Corporation. Not a person except in the eyes of the law where it is a special person which has no body to imprison nor soul to save as the saying goes. Corporations are ONLY interested in profit. 2. Profit is nowhere to be seen in fixing your 2014 Forester - especially if people such as yourself continue to "love" a corporation (a statement I would consider profoundly uneducated in the least) despite being handed a bag of $hit and being told to suck it. I think you should re-evaluate your brand alignment. In fact I would suggest you make every attempt to disregard brand entirely and judge each product on it's individual merits and known historic statistics with regard to reliability and cost of ownership. Honestly anything made in the FB era is hot garbage and that includes the CVT's, etc. I would look at Toyota who is eating Subaru's lunch in pretty much every category. GD
  13. You're in New Zealand - the home of LINK ECU. Get a LINK ExtremeX or P&P board and ditch the stock ECU. GD
  14. Once it starts down the path of eating the gears - no amount of setting the lash is going to fix it. You would have to get a new ring and pinion and that's not economically viable. Replace the transmission with a used one. GD
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