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GeneralDisorder

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GeneralDisorder last won the day on August 13

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About GeneralDisorder

  • Rank
    Elite Master of the Subaru
  • Birthday 09/12/1979

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    rick@superiorsoobie.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.superiorsoobie.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland
  • Occupation
    Performance / repair technician. Shop owner.
  • Referral
    LOL
  • Biography
    Superior Soobie and Import (SSI) LLC. Owner.
  • Vehicles
    91 SS, 90 L, 83 hatch, '69 GMC, '86 Trans Am

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  1. You probably just need ball joints, sway bar links, and strut/strut tops. Maybe tie-rod and tie-rod ends and boots. Stick with KYB for struts, and any parts you can get that are "555" brand are going to be OEM and are strongly preferred. GD
  2. There isn't one. I assume you either recently reset the codes on the computer or disconnected the battery. The ECU need to relearn it's idle. Clear the ECU or disconnect the battery for 15 minutes. Turn the key on, wait about 30 seconds, and then start the engine. Allow it to idle for 45 minutes. DO NOT touch the accelerator during this time. Then you may drive it normally. GD
  3. The button was installed by a dealer tech and not all of them are in the same place. Some aren't even mounted just tucked or tied. You will have to trace the wiring from the box. GD
  4. Problem is NOT fixed. The 2.5 sensor has a different connector because the 2.2 and 2.5 use different piezoelectric crystal frequencies and it will not correctly identify knock events. It has the right resistance to make the ECU diagnostic subroutines happy but it will not function the same and may lead to detonation and a premature rod bearing failure. Subaru engines are very sensitive to detonation. GD
  5. Replace the $65 rear input shaft bearing. Takes like an hour.... GD
  6. Yes we can and do offer re-ring services for short blocks, etc. It's about 4 hours labor for removal and reinstallation / ring fitting, plus the knurling which is $25 per piston and includes putting them through the parts washer till all the carbon is dissolved. Rings are $50. So it would be $546 parts and labor. As for adding power - you can do a cam grind which will likely not make "more" power but will move the peak power around, or you can shoot for a compression increase which in the case of that engine which already has flat-top pistons, would mean milling the heads and using eccentric timing idlers and slotting the intake manifold bolt holes. Plus running exclusively high octane. GD
  7. 99 should already have a 10mm oil pump I think..... definitely check. 642 gaskets are a slightly better fit to the head cooling ports. Though it doesn't matter in the least. The valve guide dropping issue is on the 2006+ heads. The stem seals are viton and you need not touch them. I would lap the valves though. Or have a 3 angle done. STI oil pan and dipstick (different length) will increase capacity, has better baffles, and this way you don't have to clean the old one when you do rings. NPR rings, NO honing. Drill the carbon out of the drain back holes, knurl the skirts and hand file them to a net-zero fit. GD
  8. 642 and 770 are basically interchangeable and we just use whichever best matches the head casting being used. GD
  9. I look at it. And if necessary I reject it. That's how I determine acceptability. How else would one do that? Ask for pictures before driving. GD
  10. We charge $2250 and we do remove the engine. Allows more flexibility in cleaning. We use OEM turbo gaskets, and we include new AVLS pressure switches. GD
  11. No. Long discontinued.... thankfully. GD
  12. Call a yard out here and have it shipped. But that's a $175 part from the dealer with no bearing, no hub, and no ball joint. So $100 used with a good bearing isn't a bad deal. And if you are buying parts from the NE then you can expect them to be rusty. Bead blast it. Paint it. Should be fine after that. GD
  13. There's tons of threads about it, but the issue with the gaskets is very simple for your model. They leak oil. They need to be replaced with 642's. End of subject. The biggest issue isn't the gaskets or the problem with the gaskets - it's the procedure that seemingly can't be done correctly by the MAJORITY of shops out there. Including the dealers (they use the wrong gasket entirely). From head bolts being replaced (not required and frequently detrimental), to head bolts being installed in the wrong holes, to stripped head bolt holes, to the wrong gaskets and surface prep. There are many places to go wrong on this job and THAT is the problem. If you don't know what you are doing you can REALLY screw it up. GD
  14. You need someone familiar with these engines. If you ask what HG they use on the phone they should immediately answer OEM 642 or 770. If that's not the answer you get then you immediately hang up and call the next place - they place you just called will F it up. GD
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