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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. GeneralDisorder

    KYB Shocks & Struts Question

    2WD fronts seem to be around still. Probably not manufacturing them but still sitting in warehouses. Don't see any rears and the 4WD fronts are long gone. GD
  2. How did you determine it isn't working? The auto's are 90% FWD till the TCU sees a difference in the two speed sensors. Scope the signal to the duty-c solenoid. GD
  3. GeneralDisorder

    KYB Shocks & Struts Question

    They are no longer available. KYB isn't making them anymore. GD
  4. Neutral safety IS the inhibitor switch (Subaru's terminology) . They are no longer available from Subaru. GD
  5. Rocking the car moves the transmission which is probably causing slight motion of the shifter cable which actuates the inhibitor switch on the side of the transmission. Sounds like you should start by adjusting the switch/cable for the proper park position engagement. The switch assembly is NLA from Subaru so if you must replace it, a used one will need to be sourced. GD
  6. I agree that misfire is most likely. But I just had a 97 in the shop that surged and sputtered due to mostly a dirty MAF. It was pulling 10% fuel before cleaning and adding 0.8% after. GD
  7. Yeah could be a fluid issue too. Or the hydraulics pumping up after a period of use and warm up. I've definitely seen both. Best to use the Subaru HPGO or Motul Gear 300. Both shift well at low temps. GD
  8. The POR15 degreaser works well. https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser One thing about plumbing the hot water heater to your pressure washer.... most if not all consumer grade pressure washer pumps are not rated for hot water and it will destroy them. Not immediately but it doesn't take terribly long. You can get pumps that are rated for it after you kill the first one but they aren't cheap. GD
  9. Check live data for fuel trims and MAF sensor output. Should be around 3 grams/sec at idle. Fuel trims should be +/- 5% or less. Dirty MAF, dirty intake filter, or sometimes a loose airbox can cause similar symptoms. If you hadn't already done a tune up that would be the likely culprit. Change the fuel filter on principle. GD
  10. This is a clutch hydraulics or fork problem. Check for leaking slave hose, or deflection in the fork. Does it squeak? It is very common for shops to not grease the fork pivot or not notice a cracked fork leading to premature failure. GD
  11. Poor quality parts were used if this is failing 9,000 miles after replacement. Replace it all with Japanese parts. If that's the quality of water pump used..... I would be questioning all of it including the head gaskets and the labor. GD
  12. You have a bad water pump. That leak is from the "weep hole" which is not visible till you remove the pump. You don't want to run straight water in the system as it has no shaft seal lubricating properties like coolant does. The pump was likely on its way out already though. GD
  13. The D pistons don't have valve reliefs because of the dish. The 2.5 turbo pistons similarly have a dish (with a dome in the center) and don't need valve reliefs. All the others have them. GD
  14. D pistons have a square dish in them. 251 pistons just have valve reliefs without a large dish. GD
  15. Yeah they do that. Piston slap that is. Are you running 251 pistons? Cost for knurling is $120 per set. You will have to file them down to fit each cylinder. GD
  16. If it's producing heat on one side of the car then the core isn't the problem. It's some type of flapper door actuator problem. And yes depending on the problem it may require substantial dissasembly of the dash. GD
  17. Replace the PCV valve. And stop using 20 weight. Run 5w40 synthetic. GD
  18. Check the seat on the radiator filler neck. If that's not it, then I would suspect the coolant cross over o-rings. Pressure test it well above operating pressure. Like 20 psi or even 25. You'll find the leak.... GD
  19. It doesn't work like that. The crank will be trashed besides. We never reuse cranks. 100% new replacement. DO NOT split the block. The skills required to be successful at it are hard won. Without hands on training the first time is sure to be a total failure. GD
  20. GeneralDisorder

    Need some advice on my Hatch

    Failing to idle but having enough power to drive is not a indication of fuel pump problems. Fuel delivery problems would get worse as demand for fuel (engine load) increases. Idle is the least load/lowest fuel demand condition. GD
  21. That combo runs fine using 25D management. GD
  22. Should be closer to 1 bar. GD
  23. GeneralDisorder

    Rotary Powered BRAT?

    It's been done. But Mazda rotary engines are garbage for reliability so it's really a pretty poor idea to put one in..... anything. GD
  24. GeneralDisorder

    Valve spring recall

    Timken doesn't make wheel bearings for Subaru's. They buy them from NTN or NSK - one of the Japanese manufacturers that makes them for Subaru. They do this to "fill out" their catalog. What you bought is most likely just an OEM bearing in a Timken box. GD
  25. I wish I could. I hate working on EVO's. But the owners are crazy and they bring in 50% more labor for virtually any job that isn't spark plugs. English Racing makes an absolute killing off those fools and I've witnessed their "work" first hand. No comment. GD