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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. GeneralDisorder

    ea82 front wheel bearings...

    Why buy electric motor bearings for the auto parts store? These are just 6207-C3 bearings. You can get them for like $10 at any bearing house. GD
  2. You need to put it under a load. Drive it on a lift with the brakes applied to simulate a load on the drivetrain. It is most probably front axle inner DOJ's. GD
  3. I usually just throw them away and get a new one. They are like $115 for the STi pan, $37 for pickup tube, $15 for baffle plate, and $11 for the dipstick. Upgrade to the better baffling and no cleaning or worrying about it being bent, etc. They are almost too cheap to spend the time cleaning them. GD
  4. I have a friend that's a really good welder and I also own a TIG so I just called him over last time it happened and had him weld it after-hours with the engine in the car - this was a D/S head so it was pretty accessible. We too were uncertain if the crack was already there or not - we were doing HG's due to excessive oil leakage from both heads and after everything was cleaned and put back together the crack came to the fore as the only remaining leak. It was likely part of the original problem but I elected to not charge the customer for the welding because I really don't know if my tech over-tightened it or not. Fortunately it only cost us having the car an extra night. Everyone here is now extra cautious and often asks me to make the final torque personally. We use Loctite 545 to seal the threads. If it's done properly, JB weld might do the trick. Though I wouldn't do that on a customer pay job. I might try it on one of my own vehicles if I didn't have a way to fix it properly. In any case I wouldn't replace the head over it. Get it welded with some extra filler and it will be stronger than it was originally. GD
  5. Ignition. Loose plug wire, bad wire, bad plug, corrosion, etc. 2009 fuel filter is in the tank with the pump assembly. Rarely a problem. Never seen it in fact. GD
  6. It would crack around the pressure switch, yes. You should be able to see it. If it's an automatic, you can power brake it in gear and maybe get the AVLS to engage.... GD
  7. Well the pressure switch tells the ECU that it's PWM signal to the solenoid was recieved and effected a change in the oil pressure going to the AVLS rocker assembly. So until there is a load on the engine above a certain RPM, the AVLS pressure switch doesn't receive oil pressure. That's also why I think the head got cracked. I don't use any torque wrench on them. I use a short ratchet and choke up on the head.... but years of industrial machinery taught me 1/8" NPT sending unit torque values and the various strengths of soft materials like brass and aluminum. My hands are calibrated instruments of torquing. GD
  8. Subaru. Part number 11044AA642. GD
  9. You should thrown the fail-pro's in the fuckit bucket and buy some proper Subaru 642's or 770's GD
  10. The AVLS pressure switches leak from the electrical connector - that was your first leak. And then I bet you cracked the head over tightening the new one. Seen it done a couple times. GD
  11. Might be a different number of pulses per rotation. I haven't looked into it that closely. I just know that the last 2.5RS I was asked to fix the wiring on after an auto to manual swap I had to wire up the MT sensor to a 12v switched source. It did not function with the 4EAT sensor. It's probably a square wave for both. And of course you could use like a Dakota Digital box if the pulse frequency was different. It's been a while and I don't remember the exact reason, but we had to get the MT sensor and matching connector and wire it up to get a speedo. GD
  12. I'm about 75% on getting them off by hand. The 06+ cars with the pretzel header are a bit tighter but I'm 6'2" and hands to match. I've worked with this same pair of hands extensively over the years - indeed it's rare that I use any other pair. They say the average grip strength of 25-35 males in the US has decreased by something like 25% since 1980. I guess with the combination of video games, software engineering, Army, heavy industrial, and automotive I have the hand strength equivalent of your average super hero. And later in life probably a scorching case of carpal tunnel. GD
  13. You can use a drill on high speed with the block surface setup vertically. But we use 90 degree air die grinders. GD
  14. Don't think so. One is a powered (12v switched) sensor, and one is passive. Doubt their signals are compatible . GD
  15. The "factory" filters are junk. Made by Honeywell (Fram) for the US market because SOA is too cheap (or too greedy) to buy the Japanese Tokyo-Roki filters. We use WIX because they have an up-front bypass valve design. The "blue" filters are just cheap rebranded parts store filters sold at a huge margin. We put all our filters on hand tight only. NO TOOLS!! Trust me they will come back and you will need pliers to get them off even with this much torque. Mind you we are all MEN and we don't limp-wrist them on either. But using a filter wrench or strap wrench is just asking for trouble removing it later. GD
  16. Decalcification? This would imply (I assume) a source of calcium. Now I'm no chemist or even metallurgist, but this seems unlikely. I call BullSh1t. Show us a picture. GD
  17. The white bristle discs are pretty soft. I've never had any of my tech's damage a block with one. GD
  18. The last car in here I had to do an ignition upgrade on was an EVO and we had to go to a CDI box because the plug gap was intolerably small (0.020") to get us to 500 WHP. We were blowing the spark right off the plug at 35 psi. After the CDI box we got it up to 620 WHP. Now he needs more turbo..... The factory ignition systems on modern cars are quite good is our point here. If the factory COP ignition could support a full 250 HP over stock I think it's plenty over-engineered for the stock application. And waste spark systems are already very high voltage - this is because their secondary circuit is just a coil around the primary with either end connected to a spark plug. So every firing event they are required to fire two plugs. GD
  19. All this garbage and back n forth and the guy never answered my simple question. Why? What problem are you trying to solve? I have no time for games. I'm here to help people solve problems. It's my only real function here. It's not as if I need to ask many questions in this town. So what's the GD problem you are attempting to solve with swaptronics? GD
  20. Subaru calls for the use of the 3M "white" bristle discs. They will take all that off no problem. That's all we use on block surfaces. GD
  21. I don't see there being a significant difference on a Toyota. All your vast experience aside, OEM's don't pass government mandated emissions testing with engines that misfire. You may have (probably did) experienced an idle improvement by installing new performance ignition parts where old or poor quality aftermarket parts weren't entirely up to the job. Also I might have more experience than you. Toyota included. Username checks out. GD
  22. Yes but you will probably have to swap the rear diff to match. GD
  23. You can make any waste spark 3 wire, 4 cylinder coil pack work. But the question is why? What are you trying to accomplish? The stock ignition system is capable of igniting the air fuel charge with 99.99999% reliability. Ignition either occurs or does not occur. So I question what you need this for. If you have some form of supercharging and are blowing out your spark under boost and have already reduced your plug gap beyond reasonable levels then you might want to look into capacitive discharge ignition boxes. GD
  24. EGR is not the issue. It is not on a specific runner. Internally the EGR passage comes up as a stand pipe in the center of the plenum. Obviously the EGR gasses must be distributed evenly to all cylinders. Your buddy the mechanic clearly doesn't understand how this functions. #4 cylinder is about 70% of the burned valves we see. The other 25% is cylinder #2, with 5% being either #1 or #3. GD
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