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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Learning to drive a manual is really a waste of time for most kids now. Automatic transmissions can do everything better and with less maintenance. Unless the kid wants a future in the automotive industry or just wants to learn it for nostalgia purposes. As to the question. Always use the brakes in preference to the clutch to slow the vehicle. Don't ever leave the transmission in neutral while moving. Push the clutch in but keep it in an appropriate gear. The transmission, synchros, etc will be fine. Use the clutch to slow the vehicle only if needed when on steep hills, or if the brakes are insufficient. GD
  2. If you're going to the effort - get a clean body from out west. We don't have rust and those bodies are worthless to us anyway. Probably find something with a blown engine for $200 or less. I bought our 2000 Outback Limited for $300 with a rod knock. Black, leather, one owner, etc. It's the hiking/camping/outdoor activity vehicle. The 90's stuff - people are practically giving them away. And rust is never an issue. We have tons of 80's stuff without any rust even. Shipping will run less than $1500. But really when you consider the advantages and the lack of frustration - if that's what you want it's totally the way to go. Either that or scrap the whole idea. You WILL spend more than $1500 in time and effort dealing with corrosion. GD
  3. Well I don't know about any of that NASIOC stuff, but I can tell you from building engines, breaking engines, and running them on my dyno - plus hundreds of hours of research, discussion with respected engine builders, Amsoil's technical department, etc that oil viscosity isn't going to make any serious differences in the way the engine will run - you use light oil for light loads and MPG. You use heavy oil for heavy loads and take the MPG hit. Anything between an SAE 20 and an SAE 60 is going to run more or less the same - it will have some mild effects on oil pressure and temperature but for daily driving under light loads anything in that range will adequately lubricate the engine. Anyone that is obsessed with oil viscosity in their ho-hum daily driver factory engine is only doing so because of a lack of fundamental understanding. If they understood oil and engine clearances the way an engine builder does they wouldn't be concerned in the least. It just doesn't matter. I run all my engines hard - factory or not. So I don't run anything less than a 40 in my cars. Ever. Regardless of "manufacturer recommendations" GD
  4. Can't flush the system. The passages in the condenser are too small. Most likely will have to replace the entire system - failed compressor will send shrapnel through it and it's impossible to clean the condenser cores on modern AC systems. You'll be lucky if the evap core isn't also plugged and full of debris. I have seen one or two failures. Not common. Just get a used compressor. As to the cause - lubrication failure. "Why" is anyone's guess. You'll never know. GD
  5. 10w40 would be just fine. Even 15w50 would be fine. The 0w20 spec is for fuel economy. The clearances in the engine don't change AT ALL on a 0w20 vs a 10w30 engine. They change the oil recommendation based on fuel economy, and film strength depending on engine load (turbo vs non, etc). We run the same clearances in engines making 600+ HP on high boost. We just run them with 15w50 Dominator race oil instead of 10w30 because we need the film strength. Honestly we rarely run anything lower than a 5w40 because Subaru engines blow out their main bearing tolerance within a few tens of thousands. I tore down a 24k WRX engine (no modifications) and the main bearing clearances were already out of spec. Changing the weight will NOT throw any codes. We routinely run 40 and 50 weight oils in engines with AVCS, dual AVCS, and AVLS. Never had one throw a code from it. That's BS. The engine doesn't even have an oil temp sensor. And the duty solenoids use feedback from the cam position sensors, etc to adjust the duty signals. They do not rely on anything as crude as oil viscosity. Which often drops as the oil sheers from use when considering synthetics. GD
  6. A "regular" mechanic probably would conclude that from local pricing. But a Subaru mechanic - especially one familiar with modified turbo cars, etc would know that any old generic in-tank pump will easily fit with minor modifications and they cost much less. Even the high volume pumps are super cheap. Walbro, Deatschwerks, and AEM all make suitable pumps and it's likely someone in town has one. GD
  7. NTN, NSK, Koyo, or OEM. All are Japanese and made in Japan. GD
  8. No, it's done on a piston knurler. If you tried it on a lathe you would probably make the piston smaller. The idea on a Subaru is to leave indentations in the skirt like a golf ball. These hold oil and give the skirt a hydraulic cushion. GD
  9. 96 2.2 is non interference. 96 2.5 is interference. 97 All engines are interference. Period. There are no exceptions to this rule in the USDM. GD
  10. $225 is not fair for a used pump. I sell them for $20. I usually have a few WRX/STI take outs and they aren't worth beans. $120 would have been fair for a used pump with install. I get new high volume AEM pumps for about $55 wholesale. They retail for about $100. GD
  11. OBDII is much easier. I have done dozens of each. You will not have a permanent CEL if you do it right. 95/96 are easy. GD
  12. $225 for used? That's nuts. That's a 1 hour job and you can easily get a new pump for $100. You need a new mechanic. GD
  13. Probably - you buy it and return it with their permission. But those aren't any better quality than the HF versions typically. GD
  14. Well I use the Snap On tester, which is (I think) a Stant product. They have both a hand pumped version, and one that connects to shop air. I use the pneumatic one but both are quality and should work the same. I have used the harbor freight version but I don't remember them being particularly cheap and the gauge wouldn't come back down to zero after a few uses so it's hard to say what pressure you are testing exactly. I wouldn't buy one but it would likely work for occasional use or you could just return it when you are done. GD
  15. Fortunately we typically can find used prop shafts around here that are in decent shape. But nothing rusts. But really I don't know that it's economically viable to do this at least in a shop environment. I can get a new driveshaft from Subaru for around $600. By the time I replace all three u-joints, spend an hour on each one (with them being staked in and all), and then I still have a used DOJ, and a used carrier bearing. So figure I'm going to charge the customer 3 hours at least with R&R, and replacement of all two or three u-joint assemblies (if one is bad, might as well do them all), then plus parts, etc..... I'm within a couple hundred (maybe less) of a brand new shaft. As a budget repair it's certainly feasible to replace only the failed joint and save quite a bit. GD
  16. I'm sure you mean fuel temp sensor - the 95/96 doesn't have one. None of the 90's cars have fuel pressure sensors. And for the secondary O2 you just put in a 90 degree spacer for the sensor and weld a bung into the mid pipe. GD
  17. Put a pressure tester on the cooling system - pump it up to 20 psi and you'll likely find the leak. GD
  18. No one makes a harness. You have to pull one from a scrapped car. And the 90 to 94 stuff isn't worth having. Use a 95 or 96 harness, computer, and manifold. GD
  19. The performance sucks. GD
  20. Yeah I mentioned that in post 6. GD
  21. GeneralDisorder

    Moronic ignition coil question EA81

    Guessing that a year and a half later it's probably been dealt with one way or another. GD
  22. Use the donut spare. Flip it around backwards if you need to. Drop or drive it on set of ramps. GD
  23. Once upon a time I was a younger man and made an honest mistake that cost the company more than my monthly pay. A crusty old shop foreman swept it under the rug for me and kept me from getting fired. I try to return the favor. It would depend on the tech of course. If they made a regular habit of fastener abuse or hammer & chisel apprentice work they would be pushing their toolbox down the sidewalk. GD
  24. I mixed up the intake and exhaust cams on a 25D a few years ago - of course it had to be the driver's side head. Distractions abound when you are trying to run a shop and wrench at the same time..... The engine did not run well at all this way but was completely undamaged - of course I rotate them over by hand to ensure there is nothing binding so no interference took place. I had to swap the cams around after it was in the car and we had attempted to run it. That's a frustrating event for sure. Put a major F*ck in my day and the schedule. Customer was a good friend though and didn't mind the delay. Because I we do it professionally though.... not many mistakes get made around here. Half the jobs we are on auto-pilot because repetition. Most of the "problems" we run into are getting the wrong parts, or not being able to get the parts in a timely manner. I had a friend/customer who installed a short block I supplied to him and called me saying oil was everywhere and it was flowing out of the block like a faucet. He installed the head gasket upside down with the oil port hole on the wrong end. Oil was erupting from the joint between head and block like a volcano. I had a block come in from another shop with THREE stripped head bolt holes. I guess they accidentally bought DOHC bolts for a SOHC engine. What I don't understand is who keeps torquing the bolts after one of them strips? Let alone THREE of them? Just a single bolt hole being stripped will ensure a blown gasket almost immediately. Let alone three. Why keep trying to go through the sequence? It's not an easy repair - I charge $100 per hole for the pleasure. I would have demoted that tech back to sweeping and mopping if he worked here. GD