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Mike104 last won the day on May 3

Mike104 had the most liked content!

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About Mike104

  • Rank
    Subaru Fanatic!
  • Birthday 06/24/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    N KY
  • Occupation
    Field Service Rep
  • Referral
    From Outback forum
  • Biography
    Lives in Northern KY. 1999 OBW 2.5 DOHC 4EAT, 2003 Forester JDM EJ20 5MT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L SOHC 5MT
  • Vehicles
    99 OBW, 03 Forester, 08 Impreza WRX

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  1. I remember reading a multiple page thread on another forum about a misfire (#4) that the guy changed every part in the car. Car had the head gaskets changed previously by some shop so the shop was reluctant to take the heads off. Eventually they did take the heads of and found a burnt #4 exhaust valve. Definitely something to remember if you get a misfire that isn't solved with NGK/OEM wires, NGK Plugs and an OEM coil.
  2. But all those diagnostic plugs, that’s a whole new world to look into. Boy they put a lot into these cars. There are lots of people when working on their cars see those two plugs not connected and assume that they should be then get very concerned when fans start running, clicking noises in the passenger compartment and the Check Engine light comes on
  3. Sounds like my wife's 2004 Ford Explorer 7 seats or luggage, pick one
  4. I ended up buying 4qts of the Subaru ATF-HP as I figured the cost difference between that and a generic fluid was way cheaper than a new transmission. I've heard some people use an Amsoil or Valvoline product but I don't have any good references to say they are compatible. I believe the Subaru ATF-HP is made by Idemitsu Type HP Automatic Transmission Fluid that is available at some Auto Parts stores but is same price as Subaru ($8 a quart)
  5. I use the Raybestos coated rotors as well (I hate when the uncoated ones look rusty). Thanks for the tip on the Bosch pads and the new calipers
  6. I think they are generally called locating dowels rather than piston pins.
  7. Try looking at http://opposedforces.com and look for a European version with the EJ20
  8. Here are the details from Subaru https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru 100k miles/8 years
  9. Did this job on the wife's 2004 Ford Explorer and the rears are available as an assembly (knuckle, brake backing plate and hub). Wish I had known that before I bought all the parts individually.
  10. Interesting. Had my son do this job at the dealer and he said they only use the Hubshark for the rears? I have done the job on about five or six bearings with the Harbor Freight tool and other than one misfortune with trying to press the bearing out the wrong way that wrecked the bolt it works amazingly. The car involved is a 99 with 540k miles so when it dies again probably will scrap the car since it has a number of body issues and rust.
  11. What side is it? I have a rebuilt drivers side including new bearing, seals, ball joint and wheel hub. Also has ABS tone ring installed. Should fit 95-99 for sure
  12. Only thing I have found that works is either a oxygen/acetylene torch or a special ball joint puller. http://www.company23.com/products/subarutools/532 You can try soaking it with AeroKroil or other rust penetrant but your success may vary. Sometimes using a chisel to open up the split assuming you got the entire pinch bolt out. Some have had good luck using an air hammer.
  13. Swap the coil. Had a similar issue on two other cars and in both cases the coil change fixed it. Don't use an aftermarket one though.