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Found 14 results

  1. 1994 Loyale ( Leon?) I need to replace the external fuel pump, which was quite pricey, so I want to put a new fuel filter before the old dirty gas hits my pump. Anyone know where I can get one? I would prefer OEM , but generic would work? Can I use any in line filter? Appreciate any help you could give me Thankd
  2. 1984 GL-10 Hardtop Coupe FWD. EA81, Carter/Weber carburetor. Fuel pump isn't operating. If I provide fuel down the carburetor the engine will run properly until I stop fueling. Replaced fuel pump, and distributor (to provide proper ignition signal, the shaft had some play). I'm focusing on the Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU), but I'm not in a position where I can afford to experiments with a $150 new one without being fully convinced that it will remedy my situation. I need actual diagnostic information about this box specifically. Does anyone know the actual function of the FPCU? First off I'm a Subaru dealership technician, so I'm certainly not shooting blind, but I can't find any actual information about the operation of the FPCU. Using the factory service manual, Haynes, and Chiltons manuals I've been able to find almost nothing of what kind of output this module produces. The manuals all basically say " if power and ground are there, tach signal is coming in, then the pump will run." Yes, that's wonderful, but run how? From what I've figured the pump produces a pulsing power signal, since the pump does nothing and blows the breaker in the Powerprobe after a moment when I supply power and ground directly to the pump. A replacement pump (new) had the same result leading me to believe the pump needs a on-off pulsing power source to operate the plunger solenoid. Followup question: Has anyone ever found a way to bypass the FPCU? if it were as easy as a switch or a relay to provide bypassed power to the pump I would have done that, but that was not successful. Can any of the components inside the FPCU be replaced (resistors, capacitors, etc). I implore you USMB and your fountain of knowledge! ~Erik
  3. I am ready to put the engine in, but first I need to install the oil pump. "Keep Your Subaru Alive" says to not to use gasket sealant when installing the oil pump. The surface the pump will attach to is scratched, is "no gasket sealant" still the best course of action? Hopefully, picture below
  4. About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
  5. So... My brother has a 98 Legacy, I believe its an EJ25. Bare with me, there is a lot of random symptoms/info here. Occasionally it overheats, so I looked at it. Its spitting out trouble codes P0480 and P0483, which are both fan related. Fans seem to work fine, while watching them. With my scanner, I watched the temp rise (the defrost was on), the fans (and ac compressor) would come on for about 30 sec then turn off. And the temp continued to rise. At 215F I turned off the defrost and the temp returned to 185F. What? Thermostat opened? Extra load eliminated? Weird thing is, when its running hot the coolant doesn't 'seem' to be flowing... Top radiator hose hot, low cold. I can open the radiator cap even when hot, which seems no pressure. I can put my finger in the coolant and its merely cool or lukewarm. Haven't drained to check thermostat, but he says it was replaced 'last time.' Radiator cep he hasn't replaced. So... (In order of my personal unprofessional opinion and economical preference)... Rad cap? Clogged radiator? Failed pump? Thermostat? Head gaskets... I have but didnt use a compression/head tester due to the apparent lack of coolant flow. But theres no bubbles in the coolant reservoir. I dont thinknot will tell me anything. All input appreciated. Thanks all.
  6. 85 BRAT. Starting out by backing up there is a grinding noise that sounds like worn brake shoes against the drum, checking those they are good. the cv joints are original (103K miles) and no visable sign of grease leakage. No driving problems not in 4WD although there is constant noise from the rear. Also any way to reduce the sound coming from the fuel pump mounted to the frame?
  7. How long does the fuel pump on an EA81, 1984 GL Wagon usually last? My ride has 164,000mi on it. How long do you gurus think I have left? thanks all!
  8. I picked up a '92 Legacy Wagon Turbo a little while back, super cheap, low miles, (got it with 67,000km/41631mi) by an old guy go going blind which is pretty evident on the outside of the vehicle.... Anyway, I need a new water pump. Anybody know if the N/A engine water pump is the same as the turbo? Or is it different? His almighty holiness 'Google' hasn't been much help. In fact I'm more confused because there has been some mention of an oil cooler option as well... thoughts? Thanks.....
  9. Hello Subaru Lovers... Read at bottom to help top is just about car. I have a question for you guys that maybe you can help me with. I have been a Honda and VW (old ones) for years but new to this car. So for quick story traded some work for an 86 Subaru bra rust free AZ car, (fixed his Honda) and got it home and just loved it and want to keep it! T-tops 4x4 and boxer motor that I have worked on for years before on type I-V VW got it. IT's the same but not cause there is water in violved. So I ask you as a community to help restore this great car to it glory. And to all the haters I say "It's Got T-Tops"! ok, The tags on car are AZ 97 so last time was on road. Guy before he got it gave it to him for some job, so been sitting for while. I found it and was from the last guy he said had bad pistion (#3) got it and have it here now. Did compression test 170 psi pass right was 160/165 +/- which I think is good. I have restore old VW Westfalia and they big $ now, but as they are cool I still want to keep this car alive. Also I know what that means and to come on getting it running. So car is rust free AZ car title search is AZ all the time no rust, other than little expected litle in bed, easy fix and everything is there and works. So you read about car, Quston of car, I knew was sitting for 10+ under cover that gas would be bad and turn to you all know what into, so I pumped it all out. Put new gas in (4+ gal) and now with new pump and or and pump or suck a drop. The gas that came out wasn't that bad, I've done old 911 that sat for 30 years in rusty area and this was clean. So my question to you all, help me get this car back on road. Yes there could be plug somewhere which I will check, or tank is that gumed up, which will take and get tank cleaned. But what I don't understand it's a carbarted system with 4-8 psi why doesn't goop break fee? Question I have to ask that subi may know. tank has 3 hoses hanging down next to fuel pump so when it was parked there was a problem with getting fuel, I have ran the car under starter fuilded and sounds fine, what is that cyclender (small) thing on the 3rd hose and is it a air thing that's keeping the fuel from flowing if not blockage? Anyone have pictures or digramas to show how that old fuel system works, and or do I have to take real end out to get fuel tank out to get it cleaned? To be more clear, 3 lines come from tank - ones goes to fuel filter, which I get nothin, 2nd goes over in loop, 3rd goes to small capsal thing and back. Any Pics or ideas would be great. Thanks for any help
  10. I have a 1991 Subaru Liberty which was owned by my Great Aunt from new. Its first fuel pump lasted about 19 years. We have had the car since 2009 and it has had 4 fuel pumps in that time, now requiring its 5th. I've used original and non-original parts and nothing seems to make any difference. Between 12 and 16 months the fuel pump stops working. The car does approximately 4000kms a year and has done 137,000 in total. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? One faulty fuel pump I could understand. But I cannot understand 5. This is my first ever post on any type of forum so I apologise if I've posted in the wrong area or done something else that's incorrect. Many thanks. Zara
  11. hey guys, I just bought a new loyale. I cant get it to start. the fuel pump is only getting 1.00 at the fuel pump when cranking, and nothing at on. Would this problem be in the ignition switch? thanks
  12. Hello to all, So my 83 GL has a cracked oil pump about 2 weeks now, I noticed that my oil is extremely milky, could the cracked oil pump cause this? I would like to think so, as the head gasket is harder to replace. C.W.
  13. Hi guys. I redid all my brakes a year ago and bled the lines (first timer) and my brakes came out almost non-existent. Pedal to the floor and no action. The garage rebled my brakes and it was much better but they weren't terribly strong. Before me changing them, the pedal would not got to the floor like this (the brakes were worn badly but pedal travel and strength was normal). A year later of having quirky brakes that I have managed fine, another garage tells me the master cylinder is gone. The brakes are definitely worse now. 1st pump typically gets nothing, second pump is fine. Pedal travels to the floor the first time and the second time when it engages, the pedal travel seems right. The garage says he can't find a master cylinder. A lot of chatter on here says the MC hardly goes. Any thoughts? Thanks
  14. Okay, so about two weeks I swapped my EA82's longblock. It came with a brand new water pump. The first day, I noticed some coolant loss, but it was a combination of bleeding the system, letting coolant pump through every hose, and I didn't fill up the overflow tank. By the second day, she was holding coolant nicely. About a week later, I notice the temp gauge is reading a bit higher than normal (not overheating though). Up until then, I noticed no coolant loss, and I was checking it every day. However, the radiator went dry and there was no coolant in the overflow tank. I noticed no visible leaks. Filled her up and wanted to double check the coolant to make sure. Wasn't noticing any problems, until I turned the car off when I got to work today. As always, I look back at my car when I walk away, haha. But this time, I noticed coolant was dripping pretty fast out the bottom of the car. I crawl underneath, and find it's dripping from the oil pan onto the skidplate onto the ground. Pop the hood, and notice no visible leaks. Completely dry of coolant, but yet it's still dripping out onto the ground. I had to clock on, so I left the car sitting. Nine hours later, I need to get home. First thing I did was adjust the metal pipe that fits in between the driver side radiator hose and the water pump. Adjusted it so it sits better on the water pump. I start adding some coolant, and it starts dripping out the bottom again. Again, no visible leaks. Luckily, I only live 5 minutes from work, so I was able to drive it home. Got home right as the temp gauge reached its normal readings, so it didn't overheat. Turned the car off, and noticed smoke coming out of the grill. Pop the hood and find coolant sprayed around the water pump. At this point, it is NOT dripping coolant on the ground. So anyways, anyone have tips? I searched topics on water pumps, but there aren't many threads about it. Best solution I could find is that new water pumps will do this, especially if there's debris in the cooling system, and it'll eventually fix itself. I can do some work in the morning, but should I just run the car a bit more and see if it fixes it? Oh, I forgot to mention that I've noticed no other problems. No overheating, no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, etc. Here is video of it dripping out, and what happened when I got home: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs_l8KwI0I4&list=PLWKW712Na2Z5uYMhUIrlkcgGSaNQ8ozGA&index=1 Thanks for any help! 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 (swapped exactly 400 miles ago, has 116K on the motor, new water pump, longblock)
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