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Found 6 results

  1. Spring is here and I'm tinkering with my 1989 XT6. It sat in the garage for the winter, with a trickle charger and a weekly startup. I recently did a complete reseal of the H6, timing belts, water and oil pump, etc. It runs like a top, starting right up and idling perfectly after a cold start. I let it warm up to the point the fan kicks in, cycling the cooling system. When I shut it down and restart it hot, the idle RPMs shoot up to 1,500 or so and stays there, something is convincing the ECU to do this I guess. I cleaned the IACV, MAF, throttle linkage and all the wiring to them. I get 3.2 volts at the CTS wiring plug (I replaced the original with an injector harness). The CTS seems bad, it's 30 years old! I read an open circuit between the two conductors, tested when warm and then hot. I will check again when cold and hot, but an open is bad when it's hot and should be talking to the ECU. I'll try a new CTS first, they're not expensive. Questions... Should I get a $15 aftermarket CTS, or the good old NOS Subaru CTS for $40? The original lasted 30 years, so I'm leaning towards NOS Subaru. Any other suggestions on this issue? I can drive the car all day after a cold start, idling at a stop around 750 RPMs but if I shut it down and restart it hot after a few minutes, the idle zips up to 1,500 and is reluctant to settle down. I could check for vacuum leaks, but figured if this caused the high idle, it would occur even with a cold start.
  2. I'm replacing the bent and corroded IACV pigtail terminals on my '89 XT6. I know someone here has repaired these things using aftermarket pigtails, other make/model pigtails, or knows the type of terminals I need to get the original done, it seems salvageable, check the pics and help please.
  3. I have a 1991 Legacy with code 24 and it would not fire on cylinder one as per the usual in limp mode with said code. I replaced the tps and now it fires on all 4 and it's a new pre-calibrated IACV. Is it possible calibration is off? All the wires have been rebuilt/replaced that got to the iacv. I put in a new ecu and it runs a tad smoother now at least. Symptoms: -Cold engine must be revved to about 1.5 to 2k for a few seconds so it's a tiny bit warm to run decently enough. Warm engine is fine. -Idle is higher than it usually is. -Automatic Tranny; Shifts to soon and makes it bog and struggle to speed up -Overdrive engages and stays engaged until under 40 mph which it never did before. [Symptoms are the same across both ecu's except the old onw just made the idle a tad rougher.]
  4. Hello! I have a problem with my IACV / unsteady idling after swapping my engine (from MT car to AT car), see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159399-swapping-engine-from-manual-transmission-to-automatic-transmission/ Everything is fine so far, but the engine is idling bad, alternating between about 400 and 1.400 rpm constantly. Sometimes, however, it works fine... The ECU throws me the error code 35 for the IACV. I already swapped over the IACV from the "AT" engine in an try to correct the problem, but it had the same part number and it changed nothing. I was searching the FSMs for any hint how and where to find the issue. But I didn't find any difference between AT and MT except that there should be some voltage with AT when testing it. However, I can't find any difference in the wiring diagrams. I also changed the spark plugs and the ignition wires just in case and to be sure it's not somehow related. Please, do you have an idea what this problem is caused by? I'm a bit stuck with this problem... Thanks!
  5. About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
  6. So i recently bought a 1999 Subaru Forester with about 178k miles on it, the car runs good, i was able to get the car for a very reasonable price. The only thing i don't like about it is when I am at a red light or when i first start the car it runs really really crappy at idle. I looked it up and out of all the information i had read it seems like i have to clean or replace the IACV in the car. I don't want to start taking things apart and then not have a certain part or need to replace a gasket so i was just wondering if anyone has a step by step process i could use? or any tips that will help me fix this problem? Thank you much -tye