carfreak85

If the vehicle wasn't offered from the factory with some sort of two-tone look, my personal opinion is to follow that template. If I were doing a BRAT, I'd be looking at the white/orange one SoA owns, and recreate that color scheme with my accent color of choice.

SOHC EJ253, 4EAT. On the third pair of HGs, but the last set is EJ257 MLS gaskets and the first HG repair that wasn't done at the dealership.

1999.

Just fixed our rattles. Parts still available, and cheap!

There are little clips that need to be removed to get the plug off the injector. Use a small pick (And a magnet!) to remove the safety clip.

Our SF Forester has 243k miles on it and is fairly reliable.

Shouldn't take too long in the Florida sun. Do it over a weekend, or source a spare subframe?

You are correct lonstorm66, I just popped outside to look at the twins and, while the difference is less than a half inch, you are correct. The clamping surface in the stock mount IS the lowest point of the mount, where the camber plate doesn't sit quite as far below the strut tower. My statement stands for OEM EJ front strut mounts, but OEM EA82 front strut mounts are indeed different.

Got it. Just fill it with 3M Window-Weld.

Jackman was an aftermarket company that had zero affiliation with Subaru of America. They made wheels for all sorts of 4x4s back in the day. We're talking OEM, Subaru-sourced wheels in this thread.

I'm still not clear what bushing we're discussion here...

Not in the United States. None of the factory photos, or official documentation that I've seen shows ANY EA81 chassis having factory 14 -in. wheels.

This style of camber plate RAISES the front of the car. The OEM strut mounts protrude up into the engine bay, while these plates are flat and actually don't protrude into the engine bay at all.

End up actually reducing the output of said bulb, since only blue spectrum can escape the blue tinted glass globe. Some bulbs, like the Sylvania SilverStar Ultras use a thin strip of blue tint specifically placed so that it reduces bulb output and glare.

The water dunk helps blow off some of the carbon and oxidization that inevitably occurs during the heating process, but the main purpose of quenching copper is to quickly cool it, as copper doesn't harden when quenched (unlike some other materials). It's not required, but it results in a better finished product, and less chance of a burn. Same goes for the sanding, it just knocks down the high spots from the previous installation, giving you a better surface to seal with. If the washer has ridges that catch your fingernail, that is a good candidate for a quick post-anneal sanding.