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carfreak85

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carfreak85 last won the day on May 15

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    Cascadia
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    EA81T Sherpa
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    Service Liasion Engineer
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    carfreak85
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    I <3 my Turbos!

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  1. Grab a long screw driver, put the handle against your ear and start touching the engine all over to find where the knock is coming from. I have a few running EA81T longblocks, if you need a replacement.
  2. Driver's side lower radiator hose is unique to the AT radiator as well.
  3. Yes, @Suber Dave is still selling the axle parts. If you don't hear from him I can shoot him a text.
  4. Are you a big Sam Firstenberg fan, or does the username reference something else?
  5. I thought I read an End Wrench article or a TSB at one point that discussed the AWD-engagement and Slope Control implementation on Phase 2 4EAT transmissions. As I recall, you could take the TCU from a 2003 AT and install it on the earlier Phase 2 4EATs to take advantage of the calibration improvements. I tried finding that link, but it has been a long time and End Wrench articles aren't as easily found as they once were. I sourced a 2003 TCU and installed it in our '99 Forester, but threw a CEL for "AT Communication Error," or something like that. Old TCU was reinstalled and the code cleared. Am I remembering a fever dream, or was this actually a thing at one point?
  6. I could be convinced to sell my one remaining BNIB OEM EA81 front strut. Shoot me a PM.
  7. Oil drain hose is a bear to replace. IDK if you could do it with everything still in place (from below, obviously) but you would need tiny hands. I replaced mine when I was swapping 5MTs, so everything was already out of the way, but it still wasn't "oil change easy."
  8. Sounds like the timing chain cover has sprung a leak. I'm not sure how expensive it is to repair, but based on the number of bolts, it will require a full front-of-engine teardown. @GeneralDisorder or @idosubaru might have some other pointers...
  9. I think it's either the lower radiator hose, or the small angled hoses connecting the water pump to the oil cooler. Coolant scuzz is building up in that area, but not fast enough to show a definite leak, or to have wisps of steam to trace back. Just the occasional whiff of coolant and the aforementioned scuzz on the hoses.
  10. While dealing with the replacement of our failed 4EAT I addressed a few oil leaks that had developed on the remaining original seals on the back of the engine. Should have done it from the start, but oh well. New rear main seal installed with a bolt-down tool vs. a PVC pipe fitting. New DS rear cam seal and the DS wrist pin access O-ring. Still chasing a coolant leak off engine, likely from the oil cooler or lower hose, but too cold and slushy to work outdoors on that for now.
  11. OK, took the Forester to our local ski hill and it shifts and moves the car just fine. The MPT clutch pack is just as FWD-y as the last transmission, so the basket is obviously worn. I'd like to address that at some point, but will probably hold off until Spring, since this is our ski car/dog taxi. But hey, at least it's back on the road!
  12. Not really interested in tearing into the original transmission, I'd rather get my core refunded and they don't accept disassembled components. Might zip off the oil pan for a peek, but probably won't. If this reman transmission fails, or makes me nervous at all during the next 12 months, I've got the warranty to go back and try again. Sounded good on the initial test drive back to my place. It did slip once pulling onto the main, steep, uphill road, but that was before the ATF was topped off and it hasn't done it again since. Only have maybe 8 miles on the thing because we were out of town and I didn't want the test drive to leave us stranded 150 miles from home. Updates to come once we've got some more road miles.
  13. Old transmission has been removed, new is being cleaned and inspected. Waiting on a few parts as there were a couple oil leaks from the back side of the engine.
  14. Don't use an impact driver on the oil pump, you'll likely break it, then you're engine will be dead in the water. Find an appropriately sized phillips SOCKET, and use a breaker bar to apply steady torque while pushing the bit down into the fastener. Maybe use a dab of valve lapping compound to add bite, since you're starting to strip out the fastener.
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