carfreak85

Oooooo, the accessories parts catalog would be a gold mine!

They don't carry it at the local auto parts stores, I can verify that! I ended up double clamping that hose as insurance.

Why not contact SJR directly?

Oil dripping onto the exhaust?

Do either of these blocks have a Subaru of America part number attached to them? I'm interested in one if they're compatible with the knock sensor.

Could it be unburnt fuel that flooded and washed out of the cylinder, left over from troubleshooting the initial swap?

etrailer.com has lots of good model-specific research. Look there if you have any other chain issues.

As I recall, the rear washer hose runs under the driver's side of the cargo area floor. I'm not sure where it runs forward and aft of the main cargo area, but you should be able to trace it from there.

What does your owner's manual have to say about tire chains? That should be the first stop on this adventure.

Depending on the year the button to activate this lamp said "Passing Lamp" or "Center Lamp." If anyone wants to add one to their EA81, I've got a spare lamp assembly. The only thing it needs is a replacement linkage to open the door/emblem.

Certainly is a nice, clean example! I do prefer the dual headlamps to the later quad-lamped face.

Just a thought on your installation based on my time working for a vehicle manufacturer. Applying a thermal barrier to a part will itself have some level of effectiveness, but if you design an air gap between the component, in your case the intake manifold, and the barrier, it will be MILES more effective at insulating from radiant heat. Once your thermal tape heat soaks, it will begin transferring the radiant heat from the block and coolant crossover into the manifold, albeit, at a slightly slower rate and over a slightly longer period of time than without it. This is why the exhaust heat shields either have a flame-retardant filling, or they encapsulate the exhaust pipe and have a 0.25-0.5 -in. gap between the pipe and the shield. I'm not trying to dissuade you from this project or trying to be critical, just trying to share some of the best practices we use in vehicle design and manufacturing to get the most out of your mods.

I think your efforts would be better spent isolating heat from the exhaust system and getting a clean, cool supply of intake air to the engine's inlet. The intake charge spends such a small amount of time flowing through the intake manifold that it really doesn't heat up that much, especially if it's already been compressed and heated by a turbocharger. Not that this idea wont help, but I don't think you would notice any difference on a dyno, for example. These engines aren't particularly efficient at turning fuel and oxygen into power, and the power levels are so low that we're talking 0-2 hp total for modifications at this level. A bigger radiator, some sort of high-flow water pump, lots of heat shields/ducting and a big intercooler would be more influential on engine performance and longevity.

It's certainly cheap enough to take a flyer on. Someone was fitting one of these to a HF Predator engine on one of the go-kart forums I'm on. Not sure how it turned out for him, but this application seems more inline with what that blower would fit. The listing does leave out a LOT of information that would be critical to know.

Well, not all exactly the same. The compressors changed at some point, and there are several P/Ns for evaporators, but if you didn't have A/C you should be able to swap in either of the systems.