carfreak85

I might be willing to let go of one of my spare EA81T longblocks. Shoot me a PM.

Someone convinced a company to manufacture stiffer rear torsion bars for the EA81. I forget the company, but they're available today.

It's quite simple to lower an EA81, I typed the instructions out in the first post. The pictures would be nice to reference, but it's literally remove and replace the 4WD struts/shocks with 2WD parts. Re-clocking the torsion bar is the most difficult part and even that is quite straight forward, even if it takes some finesse to free the bar/trailing arm assembly from the torsion bar tube and rear height adjustment mechanism.

VDC-equipped have a native 50:50 split that can bias more torque rearwards, they are not FWD-biased.

If you're in SoCal, I think an annual inspection and relube would be sufficient, unless you find the bushings wearing out. If you off-road or drive in dusty conditions, check more frequently. Some anti-roll bar bushings have a "knurled" interior that helps retain additional grease and can help extend the time between inspections, so check for that feature.

I've still got photos on my Photobucket account, and I created a thread here, IIRC. Found it:

The ECU temp sensor doesn't trip a CEL based on temperature, all it's doing is telling the ECU that the engine is up to temp. If you're getting a Code 21, it's because: A) the sensor has failed, or, the harness is damaged/corroded.

Depends on where you install it. If its a stationary bushing, like for the rear differential, yes, poly is a great material for that. Control arm or lateral links though? Poly doesn't like rotational forces unless you plan to lubricate them regularly. I prefer SuperPro brand poly bushings, but I've also used Nolathane and Whiteline in the past.

I guess I should mention that when we camp with the Forester I remove the rear seat and cargo area floor and install a custom sleeping platform that I actually fit onto (6'1"). You have to slide the front seats all the way forward, recline them forwards to the dash, then flip out the headrests for the sleeping platform. Custom cut mattress topper foam (4 -in. thick) and custom cut window covers. Wish I had some photos handy...

My vote for a cheap, modern Subaru would be a 98-02 Forester, pick your flavor of transmission. I'm normally a MT kind of guy, but I'll happily take a 4EAT for off-roading and driving to the ski lodge.

You'll need to lengthen the arm on the EA81 clutch pedal to fully disengage the clutch. This doesn't get mentioned often, I hope I'm not an outlier in this, but after several years I began having trouble with shifting. I replaced the worn clevis pin on the clutch cable with no change. I ended up holding an EA81 and EA82 clutch pedal side-by-side and while they're very similar, the later pedal has a longer arm attached to the cable, hence, more "pull."

A branded version of Barr's Stop Leak was authorized by SoA to help limp EJ25 engines to the end of their powertrain warranty periods before the HGs finally let go and would have to be repaired on Subaru's dime. Had there not been HG issues with the EJ25 in the first place, be absolutely certain that SoA would NEVER recommend servicing the engine oil, or coolant systems, with anything other than the recommended fluids. I base the above knowledge on my experience as a senior design engineer at a vehicle manufacturer.

Two inches is fine for your 2.5. That EJ-turbo header you installed already killed any additional power you would have made from the exhaust.

Code 21 (on my '87) is for the coolant temperature sensor, passenger's side, behind the intake manifold. Either the sensor is going bad or the harness has corroded, probably some of both, based on my experience. You can buy replacement electrical connectors, it's the same style plug used for the fuel injectors on a MPFI EA82 engine.

I don't have the photos anymore, the hard drive was damaged years ago. @franbev this thread has nothing to do with the factory height adjustment.