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carfreak85

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carfreak85 last won the day on October 22

carfreak85 had the most liked content!

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About carfreak85

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    Temple of Fuji

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    Instagram: @templeoffuji

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    Cascadia
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    EA81T Sherpa
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    Service Liasion Engineer
  • Ezboard Name
    carfreak85
  • Vehicles
    I <3 my Turbos!

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  1. I'll say it again, for those in the back: Generally speaking, there are no Subaru engines that have an inherent weakness or Achilles heel regarding the cooling system. The radiators are large enough (for any non-racecar engine), the water pumps move enough fluid (even for 800+ hp race engines), the blocks flow well enough to keep things from melting. The only reasons you hear about Subarus overheating is 100% related to either: head gasket failures, using non-OEM thermostats, old cracked/plugged radiators or electrolysis due to lack of maintenance. I will say this, however. It has recently come to my attention that factory turbocharged EJ engines can benefit from installing a coolant tee between the driver's side head and the HVAC heater (GDT Cylinder 4 Chamber Cooling Kit). This modification doesn't have anything to do with overheating engines, but everything to do with balancing thermal loads between the cylinders.
  2. I've never heard of this mod on a Subaru engine, which don't really have issues with cooling (blown HGs not withstanding). To burp the system properly, I usually raise the front end of the car as high as I can, turn the HVAC temperature to hot and run the engine while occasionally squeezing both radiator hoses. You need to wait until the thermostat opens and the radiator stops bubbling before the burping is complete.
  3. Just looked up the price for a high-amp '07 STI alternator, good golly, $411!
  4. I used straight up CRC engine assembly lube on the OEM Subaru head bolts (after a thorough cleaning of the threads and three lubed passes) and had zero problems with torqueing the heads. I don't think the brand of assembly lube matters too much (for bolts at least) as long as its chock full of moly and graphite.
  5. carfreak85

    Shifting in and out of 4wd

    In the EA81s they wanted you to make the shift from 2WD to 4WD at less than 50 mph, IIRC.
  6. Engine is back together and dropped in. The car starts and moves under its own power and didn't overheat or leak any precious fluids in the time we left it running. I'll be doing shakedown runs this evening to ensure all is well. Thanks for all the advice!
  7. carfreak85

    My new XT6!

    My reading comprehension is on holiday today...
  8. It should, as I've read, but I can't confirm it myself. I've got the parts to do it though.
  9. Pulled the Gates pulley, replaced with OEM. I'll see if I can return the Gates. Now after I get the engine back in the car and try bolting up the torque converter, we discover that I've got a cam 180* out of phase, so it all comes back apart. Oh joy... Otherwise things are going back together pretty well, though going on a two week vacation in the middle of the repair ratchets up the difficulty.
  10. Well, that really sucks to read, but its too F**KING late for this engine, TB covers are back on and the pulley has been paid for and installed... Maybe when the TB is due for replacement we'll switch back to OEM.
  11. Based on everything I've read, even the SPT intake should only be installed with a tune. Besides that, why make an intake out of cast metal? Hello, radiant plus conductive heat into the IAT... Literally one of the worst aftermarket intakes I've ever laid eyes on is the SPT GD intake.
  12. OK, great progress this weekend! Got the seals replaced, heads torqued on (with zero bolt creaking!). I did notice late on Saturday that my dealership parts guy forgot to include the toothed timing belt idler pulley, so had to go with a Gates Chinese pulley from NAPA on that one. Now I just need to do some cleanup around the engine bay and drop the engine back in!
  13. Why not just buy a Subaru instead of spending the time/money to install all this into a Saturn?
  14. My EA81T with power steering has a rubber rag joint in the steering shaft. The EA82 w/ PS uses a u-joint instead of a rag joint.
  15. The rear diff bushing kits from Whiteline and TiC both have unused urethane washers that I've burgled for my EA rear diff mounts. Photos to come.
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