1 Lucky Texan

seems like a 6202

I try, I've read a lot but really only have experience with my 2 subarus. And I also live where there's very little in the way of subaru-experienced shops. Until the last 5 years or so, Subarus were uncommon here. No snow, no mountains, etc, I guess. And, I either have 2 very long drives to get to a shop I trust, or would need to go to a dealer.

can the bearing be pressed from the pulley? any numbers on the bearing like 6203-rs or similar?

at NASIOC there are some regional sub-forums concerning vendors and shops - --,too bad, it does seem like you did proper diagnosis so, good luck on the trans swap. I think I have seen some users at subaruoutback.org from your neck of the woods - maybe ask for a shop recommendation over there?

I would have no hesitation using Timken on an older car. Indeed, Subaru wheel bearings fail often enough that I'm not convinced there's all that much special about OEM in this application.

get it diagnosed, maybe it's a front diff side-bearing?

if you pull a plug, is it wet with fuel? have you tried starting fluid?

from reading/participating at subaruoutback.org, I'd say 2016+ are the years you want to look at.

run the heater on full?

my car has something similar - could they be involved with centering the hatch as it closes?

is there a pic of this thing anywhere? could there be someway to use 3M WindoWeld to create a bushing?

maybe check youtube for some similar body work? my 'gut' says, cut out any rot if needed, weld in some sheet that is close to the shape you need, grind/file it, beat/pull it 'close' to shape, clean meticulously and smooth it with Bondo, primer then , paint.

obtw - nitrous, you should get a moderator to change your user name from e mail , some unscrupulous types might harvest it for spamming purposes.

weird - what is the history of coolant additives? was it Subaru Coolant Conditioner?

just some wild ideas..... if it 'clicked' without any noticeable reduction in power to lights or anything, I'd suspect the contacts in the solenoid. but, with the power drain, it could be anything from a shorted brake wire to a seized engine I guess....? you should be able to test all the brake lights and marker lights. If they are all good, maybe there's shorted wire in the boot from the body to the rear hatch - try starting or test brake lights with the hatch up...? you may need to charge the battery independently to do any testing. You might consider a new thread, asking for a shop recommendation near Asheville. Someone may direct you to a subaru-friendly independent mechanic.