1 Lucky Texan

yeah, not unexpected to be tight in there.....if you could get something in there, just do it blind, assemble and try, then pull it out and try some other spot. Not as ideal as someting with easy access and powered-up on the bench....just grasping at straws.....

' plunge shaft ' yeah baby

^^^ good point. It's always a problem for marketing/data-collection folks. Self-selection. It isn't always a true snapshot of reality. You don't get info from folks who don't 'select' themselves to participate. It is also a problem with perception and expectations. If someone's previous car was a Fiat, the Subaru may seem stellar (no pun intended) but, if they are coming from a Lexus, they may be disappointed. Subarus, in some respects, are also like Jeeps in that, they often get used in a manner that exposes them to more risk of damage and severe situations.

I assume you tried more than one CD? The only other thing I can suggest is wacky and even if it works, likely shrt term. TRy putting some pressure on the circuit board with, maybe a piece od rubber eraser or lump of plastic. Try between mount points along each edge, then maybe near the center somewhere....if there's a cracked trace or solder joint, you may get lucky and close it up.

the same companies make units that accept the mini-phono plug too. Or, hit-up the classifieds here and at subaruoutback.org for a WTB on an OEM unit. somebody might pull one from a wreck or know someone doing a part-out....check local craigslist and ebay, etc. ???

^^^^ yeah, Scosche (?) and some company ' i-something ' make BT devices that inject into the antenna.

I have read that proper 'clocking' (timing) of the joints at each end in relation to each other is important to maintain max angle capability. there are some special axles - HIRO ??? - or similar that claim to have more extension , maybe more deflection? but, I don't think they enjoy a great reputation. built like these; https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Axles-Polaris-Sportsman-Scrambler/dp/B07QM254C8

I have no experience with them, but I think I have seen some threads about them at subaruoutback.org there was a user 'botenredwolf' that was sorta the audio guru for a while, but others may have data sources for you...?

I can't recall all the grounds but certainly, with an engine swap, it would be easy to miss 1 or 2 so, double check the straps to the intake mani, the grounds on the dogbone at the firewall area, the strut tower, I think the frame under the radiator? Also wondering if a bad wire in the body to hatch gaiter could cause some weird ness?

I think they still list the flash-codes from '83 up at; https://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

would a '93 have a blink code?

well, Not sure my radiator has any specific ground wire. And yes, theory is not the same as practicality. But moving fluids do create friction and that can lead to static charge. Maybe measure from the battery or chassis ground, and a probe touching only the coolant. Maybe try with engine off, vs running at operating temps? Still, there are multiple formulations nowadays for coolants as well so, yeah - could be 'lost in the weeds' time.

cooling system electrolysis can be problematic I think.(haven't read-up on it, just seen it mentioned in the past.0 I could see where grounding the rad could be decent insurance to help maintain the coolant at ground potential.(relative to the engine)

yeah, came here to suggest refreshing grounds. if you could rig a vacuum gauge to observe when driving, might spot something when it misbehaves....?

you got it done so, movement forward is always good. the alignment numbers aren't horrible and they corrected the rear left quite a bit closer to in range, just couldn't quite get there.