1 Lucky Texan

read this; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/37399-vibration-idle-after-replacing-front-axles-solved-6.html#post5831287

is that a fan connector?

what if valve guides are shifting ?

it seems counter-intuitive but is a known fact - aftermarket axles will cause that vibration you noticed. perhaps extremely worn original axles will but, typical rebuilts from a parts store definitely do. may not be cause for alarm - other than parts store axles have a poor reputation for longevity. MANY folks would run used OEM over typical rebuilts. the older ANY car is, the less important it's brand/model become and the MORE important is its prior care and present condition. if you have the time, shop very carefully - try to get a one-owner with documented, proper maintenance/repairs - have a prepurchase inspection done at a subaru-friendly shop. Indeed, finding a mechanic first can be helpful. In addition to asking about the cost of an inspection, he may know of a customer that is planning to sell. subarus are often abused as they are passed along to 2nd-3rd-4th owners. Easy to cheap-out on repairs and get confused about fluids, run with mismatched tires, etc. the 'sticky' threads at the top of these 2 forums mention some common problems; Gen2; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/ Gen3; https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/ you might also consider a Forester and maybe a Crosstrek

new PCV valve can sometimes help reduce oil leaks.

did someone install an LED light? that's 'hyper flashing' needs a resistor to simulate the impedance of an incandescent bulb.

I know nothing about it but, the other day , I stumbled across some places that claim to offer carbs or carb exchange services. https://www.carburetorexchange.com/search.php https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtM5CF5w0QlS1vKEp75_LEePH42166SNfr9mzKCeIXzggnUk2GdbH-RoCFcAQAvD_BwE https://www.carbs.us/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtCEVZWqjQ-3oWvtCgAA9aaJqqtYovacfy0RHmlihPinSyCQkWEqnURoCf3kQAvD_BwE just fyi

you might consider grabbing an extra coupla bands. I discovered it's easy to break one if you've never used the tool before.......

even 2010, axles are interchangeable AFAIK. One part number for front axle.

could you get it to Portland? even if you can't call http://superiorsoobie.com/ that is General Disorder's shop - maybe call him anyway, he may be able to suggest a good shop near medford

knock sensors have been known to be bad without setting a code. Plus, many folks have had good luck with cheap sensors from ebay or wherever.

many folks upgrade springs, struts, bushings and make other mods for off-road adventures - but, they should probably consider upgrading trans or oil coolant system as well. I've seen rally car with oil coolers on the roof......

got a google map of where it went?

true - you likely will be in something like 'limp' mode. if there wasn't a recall for stuck air-cut valves, they aren't gonna do one for this. stupid air-cut valves

I'll offer some thoughts; the hydraulic pressure on the trans side of it's coil is higher than coolant pressure - is it POSSIBLE for coolant to get in the trans? yeah - but more likely for trans fluid to get in radiator. Very ,very uncommon failure from my years of reading Forums. debris,dead bugs, dried grass,etc, trapped between a/c condenser and radiator is not uncommon on older soobs. Probably MORE common when driven off-road a lot. maybe try downshifting to keep rpms up? see if that helps bring temps down. In our 03, I experienced overheating in high temps on a trip once, moderate cargo(suitcases) and 3 adults - temps 113 to 116*F (45-46*C) , temps creeped up on hills, cam back down to normal on the flats. I guess extremes just tax the cooling system - maybe some kind of supplement radiator could help? maybe a supplemental oil cooler? (that also gives you more oil volume - not a bad upgrade)