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kanurys

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About kanurys

  • Rank
    High Altitude GL
  • Birthday 12/18/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Durango, CO
  • Occupation
    R&D, Production, Control Systems, Brewing
  • Ezboard Name
    kanurys
  • Referral
    My mom, 1982.
  • Vehicles
    1987 GL, 1998 LOB, 2004 Imp

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  1. kanurys

    '87 GL 4WD wagon-czny

    Hella FF series are so sweet. I have them on another car and they're very effective.
  2. It has been a long time since I got on here. I was having major issues with the car dying and could not figure it out. Today I pulled the HVAC airbox out and found the offender. One of the wires in the harness bundle going to the ECU had a nick in it from a sharp piece of metal under the dash. It would ground out in certain circumstances and kill the engine. These circumstances tended to be when driving up hill, on rough road in moderate to high ambient air temps. This wire was the Brown/White wire going to the Throttle Position Sensor. When it grounded out, it would not throw any codes. IT's FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  3. Pressure is less in that scenario. I then put compressed air (about 90psi) on the return line. It builds pressure and is completely pinched or plugged. Any ideas on how to resolve that?
  4. Signals look good form MAF. It's clean, too. I just yanked the fuel pump and ran it in the engine bay with a little 1 gallon fuel can. The fuel pressure stayed way more consistent and under 40psi. I think two things are happening: 1. The Walbro pump is a little too much pump for the rail regulator. 2. The hard fuel return line has too much restriction. 2.5. There may be some strange pressure/injector problems resulting from the over-pressure on the rail. How do I regulate the rail pressure down to 30-35 psi on this engine? Thanks
  5. What about using a puller and pulling them through towards the front?
  6. Thanks, Fairtax4me. Can you be more specific about the "cone type idle valve" or it's variants? Thanks for the numbers and behavior description on fuel flow.
  7. Hi guys, I have a healthy 1999 Impreza EJ22 with about 180,000 miles running in my 1987 GL with a good aftermarket fuel pump. It's pumping a consistent 38 to 45 psi. My questions is: When the vac line to the fuel regulator on the fuel rails is disconnected, is it still supposed to flow fuel back to the tank? I have a steady stream and pressure with it connected. When I disconnect it, the stream reduces very slightly but is still strong and the pressure rises a few psi. I'm trying to diagnose if it's not regulating properly - also temperature dependent... I'm having stalling issues when the car is hot and it doesn't throw any codes. Thanks, SK
  8. I think I get what you mean from your English. The thought of making my own bushings has crossed my mind. I'd like to do this more substantially, due to the condition of the car. It's a great vehicle. Any other advice?
  9. It's been a long time since I've posted. Ahhh, this feels good. Anyways, my diff support bushings are toast. I'm looking into options to replace them. Does anyone have any advice on specific products or procedures to do the job? If I have to drop the differential, I'd like to do the diff mount bushings too, pending time and money. Here is what I think can be installed; please correct me if I'm wrong: Support bushings (ones on the outrigger near the outside edge of the vehicle): Whiteline W91379 and for the diff mount bushings (ones at the rear of the diff): Whiteline W91380 Do these look like the correct parts? Thanks for verifying. Here is a vid of a similar procedure that I have found. This guy pulled the entire support bracket out to do the job. Is this how you guys have done it or is there an easier way? Thanks, SK
  10. Thank you. I'll check it out. I got the new battery cables in as well as a new main power cable and engine ground. Testing is still commencing.
  11. The MAF is more round and the plug and hump is on the side, not the square one on the top.
  12. The field coil (exciter, note the spelling) is powered through the battery light indicator bulb on the dash in most Subarus. This is a 100 ohm load, typically. With the key on and a good battery, the disconnected exciter wire from the alternator should read near battery voltage. When connected it should drop a bit. You could jump the exciter terminal on the alternator to the positive side of the battery (MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH TERMINAL TO CONNECT TO!) and test the output. if that works, then trace the bad wire until a fault is found. I've been haunted by a similar problem as the OP and am going to try new battery cables on my 1999 phase II EJ out of an impreza outback sport. It's swapped into a 1987 GL, so I have been reluctant to have anyone else look at it, as I know it best. Good luck on yours!
  13. I'll double check. I believe it's a phase II EJ22 from an outback sport. I'll post back when I can check on the car. There seem to be very similar symptoms to what is described here.
  14. So what was the final verdict on this (3.7 years later)? I have a 1999 engine that has been doing the same thing for two years and it's, ironically, driving me crazy.
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