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kanurys last won the day on June 14 2019

kanurys had the most liked content!

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About kanurys

  • Rank
    High Altitude GL
  • Birthday 12/18/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Durango, CO
  • Occupation
    R&D, Production, Control Systems, Brewing
  • Ezboard Name
  • Referral
    My mom, 1982.
  • Vehicles
    1987 GL, 1998 LOB, 2004 Imp

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  1. Gotchya. Thanks. I did further research and came to the same conclusion.
  2. My other thought was to pull the shaft assembly, shim the bearing housing and pour 3M window weld to make a poly bushing in place.
  3. Thanks for the information. I'm not sure EJ shafts are compatible with EA shafts. Anyone know about this?
  4. That seems about right from my own research. Thank you for the advice. I agree about the staked in u-joints and increased power handling. With our remote location (Durango, CO), it's hard to find a decent driveline shop. I'll explore the options of a custom single piece shaft as well as replacing the carrier bearing and post back.
  5. I was affraid someone would post this. Of course its GD... It might just be better with a single piece, anyways with all the vibration issues, etc... What does it cost? I'm supprised there isn't a compatible bearing. Does anyone know the diameter of the bearing journal of the drive shaft at the carrier bearing? If there's something available it wouldn't have to bolt up to the car. That can be adapted.
  6. Hi everyone, It's been a long time since I posted. I have been hearing a clunk that has been getting worse over time. The other day i got under the car and shook down the drive line to find the rubber around the support bearing has been mostly chewed up. I searched high and low for a proper part number or instructions for replacement for this specific vehicle, but with no luck. Does anyone have any direction on replacing this bearing on our cars? Does anyone have better searching capabilities than me for a quality part? Here's a video I took when I noticed it: This GL has a 4" lift and an EJ swap. I will be making a better bracket to drop the bearing mount when I pull the drive shaft.
  7. For now I'm just running a diode pointed toward the VSS reed switch. This seems to be working well. I don't really need the speed conversion to the ECU. I'm just curious, what advantage should having it sense the real speed be for you? From my testing, the computer just needs to know it's if the vehicle is moving or stopped to change rpm controlled by the computer. This supposedly reduces clutch wear when moving and drops the idle down to save gas when stopped.
  8. Here we are, almost 2 years later. I've solved a few problems and am ready for another phase. Here's the solved list: 1. Nicked wire, as stated in last post 2. Mass Air Flow sensor went bad. A cheap new one fixed that. 3. Simple diodes (1n4007) with the annode facing the VSS reed switch in the cluster made the cruise control work and the 1999 ECU get the proper ground signal from the VSS. 4. Resistor network to fake Fuel temp, pressure and vent solenoid circuits. This results in NO check engine light (CEL) Moving forward I'd like to do the following: 1. Fabricate universal transmission mounts to get rid of bounce and play in the drive line 2. Struts and maybe swap original springs back in for softer ride - any recommendation on parts? 3. GPS/Nav/Diagnostics system - android tablet type to OBDII, speed readout 4. Cut, weld/box-in front strut top mount points for more camber adjustment I hope everyone is getting along well and life is treating you fairly. Keep on modding!
  9. kanurys

    '87 GL 4WD wagon-czny

    Hella FF series are so sweet. I have them on another car and they're very effective.
  10. It has been a long time since I got on here. I was having major issues with the car dying and could not figure it out. Today I pulled the HVAC airbox out and found the offender. One of the wires in the harness bundle going to the ECU had a nick in it from a sharp piece of metal under the dash. It would ground out in certain circumstances and kill the engine. These circumstances tended to be when driving up hill, on rough road in moderate to high ambient air temps. This wire was the Brown/White wire going to the Throttle Position Sensor. When it grounded out, it would not throw any codes. IT's FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  11. Pressure is less in that scenario. I then put compressed air (about 90psi) on the return line. It builds pressure and is completely pinched or plugged. Any ideas on how to resolve that?
  12. Signals look good form MAF. It's clean, too. I just yanked the fuel pump and ran it in the engine bay with a little 1 gallon fuel can. The fuel pressure stayed way more consistent and under 40psi. I think two things are happening: 1. The Walbro pump is a little too much pump for the rail regulator. 2. The hard fuel return line has too much restriction. 2.5. There may be some strange pressure/injector problems resulting from the over-pressure on the rail. How do I regulate the rail pressure down to 30-35 psi on this engine? Thanks
  13. What about using a puller and pulling them through towards the front?
  14. Thanks, Fairtax4me. Can you be more specific about the "cone type idle valve" or it's variants? Thanks for the numbers and behavior description on fuel flow.
  15. Hi guys, I have a healthy 1999 Impreza EJ22 with about 180,000 miles running in my 1987 GL with a good aftermarket fuel pump. It's pumping a consistent 38 to 45 psi. My questions is: When the vac line to the fuel regulator on the fuel rails is disconnected, is it still supposed to flow fuel back to the tank? I have a steady stream and pressure with it connected. When I disconnect it, the stream reduces very slightly but is still strong and the pressure rises a few psi. I'm trying to diagnose if it's not regulating properly - also temperature dependent... I'm having stalling issues when the car is hot and it doesn't throw any codes. Thanks, SK