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Found 28 results

  1. TheGageinator

    Idle issues

    I have been trying to fix my idle issue for a very long time. The engine was rebuilt before I bought the car and it's still pretty fresh. Can anyone take a picture of their throttle plate stop screw? I am worried that someone has adjusted mine. I am also wondering if the TPS is set correctly. I messed with the today. Didn't seem to help anything I have checked all the vacuum lines a million times
  2. Hi All, My manual 2000 Subaru Legacy has recently started acting up while idling over the past two weeks. It idles at around 900-1000 rpm and intermittently shakes. The shaking has gradually become more frequent over the past weeks and the CEL came on about a week ago. Just today, it occasionally started idling at 2000 rpm and increasing the rpms (accelerating) without me pushing the gas (this was mostly happening while I was moving). My assumptions after some research is that it is either the MAF or MAP sensor. I sprayed down the MAF sensor with MAF spray to no avail. I visually checked for leaks in the hose and sprayed the hoses down with carburetor cleaner to check for hoses and did not see any leaks or hear the engine rev. I just had the CEL codes checked today, and it came up with P0304: cylinder 4 misfire and P0113: intake air temperature sensor 1, circuit high input. Would totally appreciate any help as I'd like to avoid another costly mechanic bill Thanks!
  3. Video going over issues: http://webm.land/media/8vlo.webm Started having issues a while ago with some fairly extreme shaking and surging while at idle (including cold starts). To try and resolve this I cleaned my throttle air intake, and got a new air filter. After cleaning the throttle air intake the engine ran what seemed to be perfectly normal for a day with none of the previous issues. I then replaced the air filter and had some issues return (though still improved from before). Cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor trying to fix as well (no difference), and tried an idle relearn. Have visually checked for broken tubes and everything for a vacuum leak and didn't see anything. Starting cool the rpms go to about 1500 and it feels pretty stable. Switching gear drops the rpms to around 900-1100 and makes it pretty rough even if it goes back to park. Turning off AC/lights anything makes it feel smoother. Starting warm I get the same thing that happened before I cleaned the throttle (before I cleaned it this happened cool as well IIRC). On park it surges from 500-1000 consistently and surges but less so on drive/reverse. While driving it seems pretty stable and doesn't shake too bad except when stopping. However if I turn off and try to turn my car back on it sometimes fails to do so (starts after waiting 5 minutes or so though) (see failure video for example of this https://webmshare.com/rN9E4 ). For idle relearn I followed this http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/how-idle-re-learn-after-battery-disconnect-154161/ For the first 10 minutes of idleing it started at 1500 and slowly went down to around 700. (shaking more as it got around 700 but less around 1000) Second period of idleing was all around 700 shaking badly. Tried started car again right after and the car failed to start (was a hotter day) https://webmshare.com/rN9E4 The car did work well for a day period (90% sure of this) after cleaning the Throttle Intake so I'm pretty confused. Before cleaning the Throttle it shook really bad usually right when starting, but if not after driving for 30 seconds, worse then driving after 10 minutes as it is now. So that atleast helped somewhat. Any ideas of things I can check/try out? Have seen some stuff about the O2 sensor or cleaning the IACV but not really sure at this point. Any help would be most appreciated!
  4. Hey everyone. 1996 Legacy Wagon L 260k 2000 EJ 251 with EJ25D heads 2000 4.11 5mt I'm having some problems that I'm not sure where to turn to. I have an idling issue. When at operating temperatures, my idle will be low (around 500) but not rough. When the lights are on, and I depress the brake, the lights will dim and the idle will drop and stumble. Never shut off. This problem has been present with two separate motors. First with an EJ25/EJ22 frankenmotor, and now my current one. I have swapped out my alternator (both read 14v), removed the crappily-installed uhaul trailer package, and created new grounds/cleaned up grounds in the engine bay. No change. I had the battery checked at the auto store, and it is said to be good. I've also cleaned the terminals/cables. I have suspicions that I'd like to see if they are valid/relevant. IIRC, this problem surfaced a couple years ago after I had replaced the then dead fuel pump. I did not replace it with an OEM pump. This one came from the local auto store. Around this time as well, the aftermarket radio quick working. The cd player works, and I can also use the auxiliary port, but no radio. I didn't listen to the radio at the time, so I never bothered. All fuses are good. Could either of these be related? Or, since this only happens when the engine is warm, could it be the coolant temp sensor? I believe I transferred the Crank/Cam/ Temp sensors from the last motor... Sometimes after a long drive on a warmer day, at idle it will sometimes idle up and down for a short period of time then normalize. Computer related? Thank you for your time. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg
  5. haydenmtaylor

    EA82 Timing

    Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
  6. Hi all/anyone Im brand new to subaru, i have a very well looked after 55 plate forester. had the timing belt done today and a blowing exhaust patched. the car now sounds like a tornado jet with a harley up its back end. its faster. and more responsive but the idle is shocking. the car visibly shakes. i put my phone on the car roof to show the motion as my phone rattled on the roof. the mechanic ive known for ten years said all timing is bang on and it might settle...hmmm. or to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery. it is very bad at idle , the shaking is ridiculous. any thoughts on what i should or could do? thanks ryan
  7. Hey gang, So my '89 DL wagon has recently begun idling very low. It's a new issue, which as far as I can tell began after taking her for a bit of muddy time. However, unfortunately, I cannot be certain about that, as I only noticed the low idle a few days after. I don't know how many RPM she's idling at as there's no tacho, but it's low enough to be rather rough, and also the engine has cut out several times during driving. You know, pulling up to the lights, put the clutch in, engine goes back to idle, oh no! idles down too low, stalls. Bye bye power steering, bye bye assisted brakes. It's a little concerning for me, particularly as one of the first times she carked it like this was going around a roundabout! Anyway, I think I need the to find the Idle adjuster screw. I've had quite the trawl to see if I can find a resource that'll help me positively identify it, but no such luck so far. I'm posting here as this morning I found out that the screw I'd been playing with thinking it was the idle adjust was, in fact, the throttle stop screw. Oops! Can someone please post some pictures, to help me find this little guy? '89 DL, Hitachi carb, Australian edition! Thanks in advance team!
  8. Vehicle is a 2002 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 SOHC 5 speed. 220,000 miles. Problem would only occur after 30+ minutes of driving on a hot day, as of last week. Now it occurs as soon as engine is warmed up. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, and a million other things have all been replaced in the past couple thousand miles. Once the car warms up, I'm getting a terribly low idle and hesitation/jolting so bad it isn't even road worthy. It's so bad that I can barely get it into 1st gear sometimes. The car won't cut out, but seems pretty close to it most of the time. At idle, it revs up just fine. Could this be a TPS issue? Injectors? Fuel pressure? I don't see why it would only do this once fully warmed, it runs fine (seems a little slower than usual) until it warms up. There is no check engine light. In the past, it threw a code for IAC valve, but it went away once I cleaned it. Thanks guys.
  9. I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
  10. About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
  11. its been a very long time since I've really worked on a Subaru so I'm hoping someone could assist me with the old school brat. the issue is , it will crank up fine when cold, then it'll warm up & raise the idle, then you hit the accelerator and kick the choke off and it idles good, for awhile! after it's warmed up it sometimes will idle and sometimes it wont? It's strange !! I have it set to idle at 1000 or so rpms sometimes it'll idle for awhile then it starts to choke down to idle at like 600 rpms and then it dies....I thought it was the idle stop solenoid, so I took out the needle inside, to no avail, it still would idle erratic or not at all. I know it's getting plenty of fuel, I've changed both filters and also tested fuel pump and getting plenty of volume to carburetor. SO can someone please advise what the issue may be ?? I'm kinda at a lose now?? anything else i can test or check for ?.. Oh yea.. don't think its a vacuum leak, I've sprayed brake cleaner and cant really tell a difference in the rpms
  12. Hey Subie forum members, thankfully it has been a long time since I've needed your help, however this is serious. I took my car in for a smog check (in CA) two days ago, no she will not run. Need help. Full sequence of events below. 2 days prior to smog check: attempted to pass with aftermarket intake on car which did not pass component check but emissions were beautiful, 10-15% of allowed limits. Removed aftermarket intake and replaced with stock dual filter setup and all PCV hoses routed accordingly, didn't remember to disconnect battery to reset ECM. Drove for two days, minus a few HP, with no CEL or performance issues. I have a A/F ratio gauge in the center of dash (removed dash compartment) which showed typical readouts with needle bobbing in optimal range during cruising throttle positions, rich when I stepped on it and lean if i cut throttle until idle stable then bobbed optimal again. Smog Check: take it into local full service shop (reputable both by report of others and historically as they have aligned many of my cars and done exhaust work). it took about twice as long as usual but I believe they ran it twice just to make sure of the result. It failed emissions as gross polluter with excess hydrocarbon (unburned fuel) at idle only, 2500rpm test was still clean as a whistle. I get back in my car and fire it up and let it idle and low and behold the A/F gauge is nearly pinned rich. Nearly pinned as in way higher than I can get it to go by stomping the throttle under full load up a steep hill. But no CEL. I plugged in my code reader and cleared the DTCs just as a precaution, checked live data for any clear signs of sensor failure but all looked good. I opened intake and checked to make sure no obstruction was lodged in the intake, checked MAF connections, checked PCV system, checked intake for leaks, checked injectors for leaks- all were clear. I pulled out the primary filter without resetting the ECM to attempt to trick it into leaning out a little, took it for a test drive with no luck. Pulled the secondary filter right near the throttle body and it wouldn't run. Reinstalled the secondary filter and it ran but still rich at idle like before. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, let dry 5 min, reinstalled. CURRENT BEHAVIOR: Now car will not idle, can start it fires up to 1500 for about 2 sec then stalls out like but i can keep it going by pummping the gas and rev it up to 3-4k rpm, then if I hold the throttle at that position it will hold for roughly 5-10 seconds then drop off to stall unless I pump it back up, and repeat the dropoff to stall in 5-10 seconds. Thought I may have fried the MAF by not letting it dry, replaced, reset ECM, same status as above. My first thought is- WTF did these guys do to my car?! What are the next steps I should take? Check fuel pressure? (where is the valve?) Electronics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  13. Guys! there's so much info on here about this notorious tod. but i guess i'm curious because the videos i've seen to listen to the sound are all very persistent with a steady tick. i'm reading up on it because... well, i have it. i've had it for a few k's now. it is getting louder. it stops abruptly, then fades in. and sometimes, it doesn't happen at all, but does usually more and more so now. doesn't tick on the highway. the idle jumps up from 700 to 1200 and back down to 700 over and over. not always. it used to always, but i found a small hose disconnected from the charcoal filter with a mosquito clogging the end of it. removed the mosquito, replugged the hose, and the idle returned to normal. that was about 9k ago. now, it's doing it again, but the hose is still connected. i'm a little baffled. do these sound like TOD symptoms? i've read it might be a small exhaust leak? oh yes, also, it makes a delicate rattling sound from under the hood whenever i'm using lots of gas. for example: climbing a hill at a low rpm. as an after thought, my mechanic told me that this particular tick might not be the tick of death and could be something internal with the engine, in which case, paying to fix the TOD would render futile. although, he did not hear the tick, it's only been described to him as i have to you. i recently replaced the oil i use synthetic 10w-30 and used a little seafoam to see if it might help clean things up. but to no avail. anyways, i'd really appreciate some advice before i fork over the $500 to get the oil pump replaced. thanks dudes!
  14. I have a '99 Outback with about 186k that I bought for the kids. My daughter complained about it running rougher than usual at idle. I picked it up from her school and she was right! It tripped P0301 and P0303 codes (misfire on 1 & 3). I was able to limp home with it. Here's what I have done so far: 1. Changed plugs and wires 2. Changed Coil and Air Cleaner After doing this, I tried the car. It kept stalling (see detailed description below). I was able (barely by giving it lots of gas) to get it the 20 feet into my garage so I could work on it out of the rain, but that's about it). 3. Changed timing belt, hydraulic tensioner and all idlers (see below, they were past their expiration date) 4. Changed water pump (well, I figured since I was in there anyway...) 5. Changed upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat (again, since I was there..) 6. Changed alternator/PS belt and AC compressor belt, as well as idler on the AC belt tensioner (after all, my kids are driving it...) So, here's where the story gets interesting. When I opened the timing belt cover, I found a rubber-covered metal ring floating around in the sprockets. It ends up it is the ball-bearing cover on the idler wheel that has the teeth (don't know the technical term for this). So, clearly that idler was fubar and it's a fair assumption that this foreign body probably caused the timing belt to skip, resulting in the misfires. I put the car together and started it up. It started right away, sounded smooth, revved up to about 1500 RPM, and then died. Thinking that maybe the computer needed to relearn the idle, I disconnected the battery for a minute or so and then turned the ignition on for a minute or so, and then started it up. Some thing. No CEL and no codes came up, but it just doesn't run. If I give the car lots of gas, I can keep it running, but it tries to die every few seconds and I need to pump the throttle to keep it running. Don't think that I can move it like this, since every time I try to shift it into gear, it will stall. Suggestions are welcome! Thank you.
  15. So the other day my brat started idling super slow on me, like it was going to sleep on me. Sometimes it would idle slowly enough that it would quit. Before this started happening I had adjusted the idle speed so that it idled at a little below 1000 RPMs, but now it was idling around 200-300.. It's not overheating, but when it happened the engine was at normal operating temperature. I checked the oil and that is fine. I checked all the wires on the spark plugs and they were snug. I simply adjusted the idle speed screw so that it was back up to around 1000 RPMs, and it runs normally now, but at first (right after I adjusted it) the engine was hiccuping, or lapsing rather. What could be wrong with it? I fear that by simply adjusting the idle speed screw I'm only treating the symptom and not the cause of the problem.
  16. I purchased the car used about 6 months ago and had $2,500 worth of work done on it to get it through inspection. It seemed fine after that other than the shaking issue, but a few months later I also began to have acceleration issues. I had an oil change done in October at which time I also paid $50 for a diagnostic test and was told that I needed a new battery. But other than that I was not told that there is anything wrong with the car. I assume that the mechanic probably thought that my issues were linked to needing a new battery, and I honestly thought the same. However I basically continue to have the same issues even with a new battery. That being said, does anyone have any idea why the car may be shaking while idling, for instance while stopped at a traffic light, or why it may have trouble accelerating, and/or should I even bother to have it diagnosed again? Note that the car does have about 177,000 miles on it. If any more information is needed let me know.
  17. hey everyone! just having an issue with my 94 loyale. I recently replaced the distributor cap and I will be installing new spark plugs and wires, however when driving, my car will have a very unsteady idle or even drop so low that it will die altogether. i have to feather the gas just to keep it running while its on the road and if i dont it will stall out and ill have to start it up again. I have sprayed around the lines for vacuum leaks and i have done research on wether its the fuel injector or maybe one of the sensors or the solenoid is stuck open. i am not sure where to go from here. I have a chiltons repair manual and have looked over what it could be, I would just like a bit more input and direction and hopes its not a big endeavor in both cost and time. thanks!
  18. So every once in a while my rig will start to get a sort of "pulsing" idle. It isn't fatal but it obviously isn't right, it will hang around 1k rpm, just above and just below. It almost sounds like a heartbeat if that was possible. Looking for suggestions to what it is! Thanks.
  19. I have an 03 Outback 2.5 A/T w appx. 184k miles. Trans has been replaced and the previous owner took good care of and maintained the vehicle well. The past several months I have had starting/idling/stalling issues. This general is worse when the vehicle is cold. It is hard to start without giving the accelerator a little help it most of the time will not start and keep running. It will stall if the idle is not kept up but when it does it runs fine. Sometimes it will idle and or start on its own without help, but that is generally only when it is warm, however can periodically do so on a cold start. When it stalls out, often the "AT Oil Temp" light flashes. The car is not throwing any codes. When these issues first started the symptoms where worse and the idle on a few occasions started to run high on its own, yes while driving which was quite dangerous! A few weeks back I ran some Seafoam into the intake into two different areas as per the bottles instructions to try to ensure that all cylinders where feed properly with the remains in the fuel tank. I also cleaned the throttle body out the best I could (air filter good, pcv valve iffy.) I did not get the standard heavy white smoke on start up that I normally do on other vehicles leading me to question whether the process took properly. I had a mechanic tell me to reset the computers values by disconnecting the negative lead & touching it to the positive side and leave set for 15 minutes or so. All of this seemed to do the trick. However, it started again and I brough it to my mechanic. The only thing they could find was a reported vacuum leak next to the intake. That certainly could do it and assumed that when I reassembled the air cleaner, I must have not made a proper connection and was gald that was the problem. It was not. THe car is still doing the same thing. I am going to try and replace the fuel filter and pcv valve next but if that doesn't do it, I am stuck! Suggestions!?! Btw: The TPS switch was tested and all that seems to be good. Please HELP!?!
  20. Alright, so I finally made the purchase of the 1986 GL coupe, however it seems like it doesn't want to idle now, even though it ran perfectly two weeks ago. I have to give it throttle or it will die. It's also running rich, but it was doing this two weeks ago as well. So far I've heard that the MAF and IAT sensors might be dirty and that it might be a vacuum leak. Any other ideas?
  21. First I would like to say hello and thanks. I have been using this forum for years but this is my first post. I bought this car 2 years ago with close to 200,000 miles. I was told it had a bad MAF but when I got there to test drive it (with an untested junkyard replacement MAF) it had a huge hole in the plastic next to the MAF. I duct taped the hole and tested both MAF and got the same results (crappy but better than before duct tape). The car was throwing solenoid codes that were not MAF related...so I thought maybe she took it to a mechanic that did not understand Subaru's and mis diagnosed the MAF. The guy who said it was the MAF also missed the giant hole in the plastic. How is beyond me, but his credibility went to zero! So far I replaced: - The plastic/rubber housing that the MAF (and most vac hoses) mounts into. (whats that called) - PCV (new) - O2 Sensor (new) - 2 solenoids (EGR and purge control) - IAC - Plugs, wires, d cap (new) - MAF (junkyard) and cleaned the original - Fuel Filter (new) I also tried: - Seafoam - Alcohol and water into vacuum lines - Alcohol in the fuel PS... The alternator was brand new. First I did all of the above to clear a bunch of codes. The codes returned. I re-replaced both solenoids and IAC again (new, not junk yard this time). Codes are now gone again but the car has no change in performance. NONE. The car continued to idle poorly, surges really bad when trying to maintain a slow speed (parking lots), has a hesitation when accelerating (rpms drop when clutch is released...then after a 1-3 second delay it kicks in...it feels almost like a power band kicking in ...but it goes from crap to normal not normal to overdrive). I tried to drive the front wheels up on a curb but could not get the low end power to climb up onto it. When I start it, it usually idles between 1000-1500 sometimes between 2000-3000 and sometimes it fights to stay between 200-1000 or just dies (200-1000 is more common when warm). I have been playing with the throttle cable constantly to keep it from stalling so all of these RPM values may be irrelevant. I have found cracked vacuum hoses but no matter how many I fix nothing changes. I also removed several vacuum hoses (on purpose...as a test) but it does not get worse (removed charcoal canister, removed vac hose to pcv...one at a time...no response). It runs fine at highway speeds, gets pretty good gas mileage and starts instantly on even the coldest nights. I am at a loss! - I suspect a vacuum leak but my heater vents and 4x4 button work properly. Then again, my brakes have been acting up but introducing a major leak does not make it worse?!?!!?! - Maybe a fuel pump or sock issue. - Maybe a computer issue caused by playing with the screw on the carb (I read not to do that...it was too late) - Maybe I need a new battery (lots of corrosion on one tower) - Maybe my fuel filter got clogged instantly after replacement. - Knock sensor? IDK anything about this but it came up in other forums. - EGR...I can't get it off Random stuff that might matter: - I noticed a hose that does not go anywhere. It is a 1/2 inch hose that sticks through my passenger side firewall. It is about 9" long but does not connect to anything. It is dangling onto my exhaust pipe. Its a foot below the windshield wiper apparatus. - Charcoal canister also has a 1/2" hose on the bottom that goes nowhere (I think thats for water... is it not) - Charcoal canister has 4 nipples on the top. Only 3 have a hose connected, one is capped. If we call the 4 nipples a,b,c,d and c and d come from the riser then its a (If I'm not mistaken thats the one from the gas tank...this seems like it could be bad....No gas vapor odors though). - The lady I bought it from said she took the belt of the AC compressor - I keep hearing a clank that I suspect is a broken motor mount - Has the tick of death PS I am not a mechanic but can follow directions well enough that I do most of my own work. This is my 7th sub $1000 Subaru and I keep learning. Things like hoses, alternator, oil change, cv joints, and everything I mentioned above are easy for me. I don't have many tools or gadgets (vac or compression test stuff) but I have a muti meter. Things like clutch, tranny, head gasket mean its time to sell.
  22. all of the sudden I started my 82 gl yesterday and the tac was viciously jumping up and down but it wasn't revving the motor all the way. I could kind of hear something under the hood making kind of a slipping/skipping noise. I thought it could have been frozen coolant because its mostly straight water and it was freezing outside. so I let it warm up while doing this then went on my way. it would stop for a little bit but even once warmed up and driving it was still fluttering even in 4th gear going 55. its really not wanting to stay idling now either. when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it idles down and dies if I don't rev it in time. Anybody ever experienced this? Please help! THANKYOU!
  23. A few weeks ago my 1992 Loyale Automatic started idling funny. It would fluctuate constantly. My mechanic told me that I needed to replace the Idle speed control solenoid. So, my question is: Does there need to be any timing done before it will function correctly? I've put the part in, but now the RPMs jump up, and then drop to zero after a few seconds.
  24. Have a ea82 turbo when cold it won't idle no matter what idle adjustments .If throttle screw is wound in to let it idle cold ,it idles at 2000 hot . this is a 2nd hand motor I brought heaps of power uses no oil but seems to have a miss at low rpm's . Remove a spark plug lead doesn't seem to make much difference . Could timing belt be out , injectors cracked ends HELP ARJ
  25. So i bought this car last weekend and there were no problems with it. it sat for a few days while it waited to get registered. I drove it a little the day it got registered and the next day it started having problems. It drives great with 172,xxx miles on it but it has a really slow rough idle. it idles between 200 and 250 rpm and the interior and dash lights flicker and it shakes. it has stalled out twice at red lights but i had no problem starting it up again. PLEASE HELP. I have no idea whats wrong with it but I have very little money to spend on fixing it. All input is appreciated im feeling like this right now.
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