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  1. Just picked up a 1995 Legacy Wagon with the 2.2 engine. Looks like the previous owner caught he lower radiator hose and overheated it and now the head gaskets are shot. Puffs white smokes and overheats. Question is this is my first head gasket job on a Subaru. How hard are they. Is it best to just pull the engine. Thanks. Any upgrades to do while I’ve got it out?
  2. I've had a few '95 Legacies with the EJ22 over the years. One made it to 386,000 (MT), another died of a freak headgasket problem a little after 200k, and my current one (AT) is at 387,500 or so. The transmission was replaced with a used one about 200,000 miles ago. The clutch pack started having problems a couple of years ago, so I've been running it in FWD for a while. The shifting has been getting wonky over the last year or so - i.e. sometimes won't come out of first gear, and the speedometer doesn't move, then suddenly will shift just fine. The problem is that I've been telling my wife for years that these engines never die, can go for 500,000 miles . . . I think it will be time to move on when the transmission finally goes. She says we should just put another one in. Given the age/mileage of salvage yard transmissions at this point, plus the cost and overall age of the vehicle, I think it will be time to retire the car. As much as I'd love to keep it going forever, I feel like it's reached the age where it's time to enact a DNR for anything major. What do y'all think?
  3. I got a P1133 code which is upstream O2 sensor gone bad I think. Anybody know where it's located or have a video. 99 legacy L 2.2
  4. So since a quick search revelaed nothing on " tow bar" figured it was OK to start a thread. Figured with plenty of friend's who have trucks, and genrally doing all sorts of stupid things it would be a good idea to have tow bars on my subarus. Seems like it would make it a lot easier to get home if a buddy with a super duty could just hook up and tow me home VS calling a tow. ( at 300 miles between major towns tows get expensive) So the question : Anyone use a harbor freight tow bar on their Subaru ? I plan to use one on my 1993 2.2 legacy and my 1998 subaru outback legacy. This is the product I am looking at: http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-adjustable-tow-bar-94696.html Thanks for looking and contributing. ( open thread so long as relatively on topic its good :0D )
  5. So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
  6. So i have all the stuff laying around the shop to do a 97 2.5 DOHC block, 96 2.2 SOHC heads Franken motor. Ive read that you either use the subaru 2.5 DOHC gasket and add some holes for the coolant jacket or get the Cometic gasket. The part that is unclear is what fuel are people using. Ive read a ton of threads and people are saying 85 is fine and others say that you HAVE to use 91. Can anyone with Frankenmotor experience please chime in here. Thanks
  7. Hey Subie forum members, thankfully it has been a long time since I've needed your help, however this is serious. I took my car in for a smog check (in CA) two days ago, no she will not run. Need help. Full sequence of events below. 2 days prior to smog check: attempted to pass with aftermarket intake on car which did not pass component check but emissions were beautiful, 10-15% of allowed limits. Removed aftermarket intake and replaced with stock dual filter setup and all PCV hoses routed accordingly, didn't remember to disconnect battery to reset ECM. Drove for two days, minus a few HP, with no CEL or performance issues. I have a A/F ratio gauge in the center of dash (removed dash compartment) which showed typical readouts with needle bobbing in optimal range during cruising throttle positions, rich when I stepped on it and lean if i cut throttle until idle stable then bobbed optimal again. Smog Check: take it into local full service shop (reputable both by report of others and historically as they have aligned many of my cars and done exhaust work). it took about twice as long as usual but I believe they ran it twice just to make sure of the result. It failed emissions as gross polluter with excess hydrocarbon (unburned fuel) at idle only, 2500rpm test was still clean as a whistle. I get back in my car and fire it up and let it idle and low and behold the A/F gauge is nearly pinned rich. Nearly pinned as in way higher than I can get it to go by stomping the throttle under full load up a steep hill. But no CEL. I plugged in my code reader and cleared the DTCs just as a precaution, checked live data for any clear signs of sensor failure but all looked good. I opened intake and checked to make sure no obstruction was lodged in the intake, checked MAF connections, checked PCV system, checked intake for leaks, checked injectors for leaks- all were clear. I pulled out the primary filter without resetting the ECM to attempt to trick it into leaning out a little, took it for a test drive with no luck. Pulled the secondary filter right near the throttle body and it wouldn't run. Reinstalled the secondary filter and it ran but still rich at idle like before. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, let dry 5 min, reinstalled. CURRENT BEHAVIOR: Now car will not idle, can start it fires up to 1500 for about 2 sec then stalls out like but i can keep it going by pummping the gas and rev it up to 3-4k rpm, then if I hold the throttle at that position it will hold for roughly 5-10 seconds then drop off to stall unless I pump it back up, and repeat the dropoff to stall in 5-10 seconds. Thought I may have fried the MAF by not letting it dry, replaced, reset ECM, same status as above. My first thought is- WTF did these guys do to my car?! What are the next steps I should take? Check fuel pressure? (where is the valve?) Electronics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  8. I have a 1999 Legacy GT with the 2.5L EJ25D (dohc, phase 1) and I want to swap the heads. Now I know that I'll need new 2.2L heads with dual port so I don't need to change my exhaust, and I've read that you need a new timing belt. (Donor car will likely be 1995 Legacy 2.2L) Now here are the issues: - Do I need to use the 2.2 head cam sprockets or can I use the ones from the 2.5? - Besides the previous question, do I need anything else other than the 2.2 belt for the timing system? - The bolt pattern for the 2.5 manifold I have has bolts in a straight line, however the 2.2 heads I've seen (1995 and older) have diagonal bolts. - Can I use the 2.5l head bolts? I have a new set which I will use. 14mm 12 point. - Is the bolt pattern the same? My current one has 6 bolts, 3 on top behind the top cam, and 3 down low behind the bottom cam. - If the donor engine (2.2L) didn't have HG issues should I still get the heads planed by a machine shop? - Should I get new valves seats/guides/valves/springs or is that overdoing it? Pics are here (2.5l head, block and manifold): http://imgur.com/a/ExhsZ
  9. I have a 2002 Legacy Wagon with a bad crank bearing. Has 290k miles and had a HG at 218k. What year 2.2 engine will swap easily and any suggestions as to where to find a good 2.2 engine? Love this car and don't want to part with if possible.
  10. Hey all from Spokane, WA! Im looking at getting my first Subaru And i found a guy wanting to sell his 2000 Impreza OB sport. Problem is, he says in the messages we have sent back and forth its a 2.5L but i havent found definitive evidence of an '00 OBS with a 2.5 liter. Iam new to Subies but like most of my interests i research the crap out of it before i buy. Am i misinformed or does he not know the difference maybe?
  11. bought a used 96 subaru legacy outback 300000 miles. when i bought it i noticed that when i turn the key to start i would hear a buzz from a relay under the dash, i would have to turn the key 2-3 more times before the car turned over. somedays it starts right up. i found the relay (starter relay) and replaced it. still does it. later i replaced the stereo and unhooked the battery to do so, and the keyless entry unit started making weird clicking sounds. not knowing it was also the anti-thief unti i just unplugged it and went on my way. same starting issue. after work the other day, i got in and tried to start the car and nothing. over and over again no crack. checked power at relay, replaced starter same thing. battery is good, finally found online to take the power lock fuse out after resetting the keyless entry unit and it started. ran it like that for a few days. now it wont start at all. the check engine light has been on since ive owned it. code say P0135 (O2 sensor) P0304 (cylinder 4 missfire) P0507 (idle air control) and ABS light is on. today after work i got in it and it will not start. we've tried everything. Need help! (im new to forums so please be easy one me veterans) ask any question. thanks
  12. Hey everyone, I just bought my first subaru a few weeks ago. Its a 99 legacy sedan L sedan. So far I like the car, I think I lucked out getting a 99 since its the base model but I still have the sunroof/spoiler/alloy wheels combo. Its a 5 speed standard too which is fun since I spent the winter in an automatic jeep cherokee. I paid $800 for the car which has 155,000 miles on it. When I bought the car the man who owned it told me the check engine light was on for a front 02 sensor. When I had the codes checked it turned out it had codes for front 02 as well as a knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor and it seems to be running more smoothly already. My main question and motivation for posting this thread is this: When I jacked the car up to change the oxygen sensor, the source of my exhaust leak became obvious. I have a fairly significant leak coming from where the header meets the manifold. It looks like the flange is pretty well rusted out. Is it possible that this leak before the 02 sensor could be causing the code? I was thinking of replacing the sensor to see if it would clear the light, but I feel like that might be a waste of time since the leak might be the reason for the code. I was thinking of ordering a replacement header, which runs about 140 bucks from advance auto in town, but they'd have to order it anyway so I'm looking around a bit for better prices. Should I replace the header & o2? or just one or the other?
  13. Ive been doing a little research about this problem I am having. On my way home from work the other day my 96 impreza 2.2 started to be sluggish. It doesnt seem as if the engine itself is the culprit, more along the air fuel mixture coming in. I have recently replaced head gaskets, upstream 02 sensor, as well as plugs and wires. The car doesnt have any problems revving, but as soon as power is put to the wheels you can feel it not pushing as hard as it should. Any other suggestions on what could be leading to the hesitation it has?
  14. Hey guys, I have a 1999 obs AT and ive been thinking about a rebuild until I read the forums on that. So I think I've found on here that the best swap is my ej223 to a ej251/3. Is this correct? My motor is burning oil and has less compression and power and still stock head gaskets at 280k miles and I'm starting to lose coolant somewhere so I'm thinking its time to upgrade the motor.
  15. I have a 96 legacy with 262k on it currently. It started doing the 16 flash A/T transmission light. It ended up being code 24 (duty solenoid C / Valve transfer assy) I put in the FWD fuse and it didn't work at first (no FWD light). I decided to leave it in and see if its working at all. I noticed it might work for a day or half a day or 20 minutes and then the FWD light will go off again. (my thinking is FWD works when the solenoid is working with the fuse in)... I looked into prices and it would cost me around $2-400 to do the solenoid and clutch pack myself. or about the same price for a used transmisison here in phonenix. I don't want to do this job and then have it break again soon with such high miles. And frankly its hard to spend more money on a car that is worth around $2000 these days... So here are my questions... 1. What is the life span of a 96 subaru/nissan 4EAT? 2. Is it worth it to change the Duty Solenoid C / clutch pack on a tranny with 262k on it... WIll another solenoid or someting else likely go out in my transmission soon? 3. Could it be something being plugged up causing the FWD mode to work intermentately... to which a fluid drain and fill could possibly fix my woes? Your advice is appricaited! Any advice.... I've been thinking of selling it and getting a newer suby... I'm just so use to the 2.2 reliability and have been afraid of the head gasket issues of any 2.5 legacy/outback till 2010 which is out of the budget for now.
  16. Does anyone know if you put phase II 2.5 sohc engine heads on a phase I ( 1997) 2.2 liter (using the 2.2 gaskets) will that engine combo work? I need to get a buddy out of a jam in his 2002 OBW by building him the most inexpensive engine i can and I dont have any good 2.5 sohc lower ends that I trust as is. If the 2.2 phase one wont work will the phase one 2.5 lower end work? Thanks
  17. Saw an interesting local ad for a 1995 Outback with the 2.5. Only 155k miles. I have not checked the car out yet but I have gotten conflicting info about whether or not that motor was offered for the '95. Is the owner mistaken?
  18. 1996 Legacy L with 2.2 L motor, 163K on it. Intermittent problem with restarting engine after it has been run a while (half hour or more) and then let sit about 1/2 hour. If the car is stopped for just 5 minutes, no problem. If the car is stone cold like it is at 7AM, no problems. Starter replaced about 30K ago, alternator about 3K ago. Plugs about 10K ago, just checked, look good. Air filter good, fuel filter new. Starter turns, engine just won't start. Except if I pump the gas like once or twice, then it starts. Normally I don't do that as I was taught to never pump gas when starting a car with fuel injection. Two out of three times it was a wet/rainy day. The other time, I don't remember it was a wet or dry day. Temps when this happened were about 40F or thereabouts, which is typical temp this time of year in Portland. Other than this, car runs like a top. Once started, runs like a top. Problem hasn't gotten me too upset yet, because I pumped the gas, and she turned over. But this happened to my wife when I wasn't with her, kinda freaked her out. Any leads regarding stuff to get checked or replaced would be helpful. Thanks!
  19. I'm going to be doing a trans swap in my 97 Impreza sport and would like to know if it is easy to pull the trans without pulling the motor. I have had a number of Loyales over the years and have always pulled the motor to get the transmission out. Have already had the motor out of this Impeza once to do the clutch, now the trans is on the way out...sigh.... if it is possible to pull the trans out from under the car how much room do I need? I don't have a hoist and will be doing the work on the floor off jack stands. Thoughts? Thanks.
  20. Hey Subaru Nation - I have a 1992 Legacy 2.2 (non-turbo) and I'm trying to diagnose some idling issues. The car runs fine but once its warmed up it begins to surge idle at stops (sometimes stalling). I had a cracked air intake and I replaced it with no resolve and I've cleaned out the throttle body and I'm currently replacing the Idle air control valve with a new one (new gaskets all around). My next option is replacing the mass air flow sensor. My current sensor has 5 pins and all of the replacements I've seen online have 5 slots but only 4 pins?? Does it matter? Will the 4 pin work the same? Also if anyone has any further ideas or sollutions for idling issues - I'm much appreciative. I've also changed out the coolant/thermostat. Thanks for the help!
  21. I am planning on replacing the stock radiator. Which brands would you recommend? There are a huge range of brands and prices from generic, no name for $65; to NISSENS for about $145. Thanks for your input
  22. I have a 1998 Impreza that I'm thinking about buying, it only has 86,xxx miles on it with the 2.2L, The question I have is If I get it I was going to do the timing belt, water pump and tennioners on it since it's close to that 90,000 mark and with it being an interference engine I rather be safe then sorry.. Anyhow I was wondering since I have it apart should I do the head gaskets, or just leave them alone and run her
  23. New member here. Don't own a Subaru at this point, but have loved them since I learned to drive stick on my dad's '81 GL hatchback. Have lurked a bit before joining --gathered some intel on what to look for in buying a car from the mid-late 90's era, so thanks for the info all. From what I read, it looks like the EJ22 is the motor I want to look for, especially if I go for a high mileage car. Two questions: Was that motor ever put in an Outback or a Forester? Or was is mostly the Imprezzas and Legacies? Also, how do you tell the difference between the EJ25 and the EJ22 visually? Many thanks!
  24. So a little while ago I was having idling issues on my legacy and it would stall out on occasion. However it I found out there was a rubber plug missing on the casing for one of the air filters, I sealed the hole (why they put the hole there in the first place I don't know) and it stop stalling and now works fine, however it still bothers me that it idles really low, only about 200 rpm, and somewhat rough too when the engine warms up. It doesn't cause any issues however its clearly to low, so im thinking about cleaning the idle air controller (there's about 172k miles on the car) and sooner or later getting new plugs and tips for i, will this up the idle and make it smoother? any other suggestions?
  25. So i bought this car last weekend and there were no problems with it. it sat for a few days while it waited to get registered. I drove it a little the day it got registered and the next day it started having problems. It drives great with 172,xxx miles on it but it has a really slow rough idle. it idles between 200 and 250 rpm and the interior and dash lights flicker and it shakes. it has stalled out twice at red lights but i had no problem starting it up again. PLEASE HELP. I have no idea whats wrong with it but I have very little money to spend on fixing it. All input is appreciated im feeling like this right now.
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