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Found 7 results

  1. Ok so I've read many times recently on the forum to re-ring with a head gasket replacement. I've read the article provided by GD in another thread about why you don't home to "deglaze" a bore or to bed new rings in. What I'd like to know is the procedure of how to go about re-ringing the engine from the time the pistons are out. Basically in terms of: - What needs to be checked? - How is this checked? - Do you buy standard rings for the given engine and call it a day or is it more technical than this (eg, measuring bore to piston clearances with a wire gauge then work out required ring size from this?) I ask these as I'm about to do this to an engine to get one of my project cars going and want to be clear about how to do this properly. I know @GeneralDisorder,@Gloyale and possibly @idosubaru have done this before - if you have the time to share this information or the way you go about it, I and I'm sure other members, would really appreciate some guidance. Regards Bennie from Down Under
  2. Hello, At work right now so my full research will start when I get home, but figured it would be nice to have some pointers of where to look in the forum ( keywords, etc) and maybe where to look on my car to better assist my research phase. **my 1998 subaru Outback 2.5l auto with about 130k miles popped check engine light. -Drove it about 12 miles, checked fluids ( oil, Brake fluid, trans , coolant ) all looked good. - pulled battery Cable to try and reset light in case it was a one time thing. -Reconnected battery, Started car , idled until temp guage started reading, still check engine light. -Turned off car fluid check again . . . oil was way low, looked under car, 0.5 + quarts dumped right under the car. seemed to be coming from Driver side left of engine above the lower Radiator hose connection behind the plastic cover that is behind the belts. Wondering if it ends up being a big issue if swapping from the 2.5 to the 2.2 is a common thing ? The research and Adventure now begins! Any thoughts, questions or pointers would be awesome. ( will be doing a photo bucket account or the like to get plenty of photos flowing :0)
  3. Hey all, I finished a Frankenmotor build about a month ago. I used the short block out of a '96 OB, and the heads from a '96 Legacy. I surfaced the heads on my own via the flat board/sandpaper method. I used .056" thick Cometic MLS headgasket with their hybrid pattern. This is my third HG replace dealing with a Subaru motor, and I have other background experience with Toyota motors. I'm just trying to convey that I'm not unfamiliar with these things, nor to say that I'm an expert. I have found coolant seeping from the passenger-side head upon start up. It'll seep out onto the exhaust and smoke. After running to temperature/driving, the seepage stops and all is dry underneath. I have not seen any white smoke from out of the tailpipe; usage from the over-flow tank is not unreasonable. I followed the directions for headbolt tightening via the FSM. Doing this before, I've yet to see this seepage. But I was also using OEM headgaskets from Subaru. The MLS HG was pretty beefy. The rings surrounding the combustion chambers were aggressive. I've talked with some big-power-turbo Subaru enthusiasts, and they've mentioned different specifics for the torque. They use 30-60-90ft-lbs (I believe those were the numbers they referenced...) increment increases (first tightening is 30ft-lbs, second go around 60ft-lbs...). Is it possible that the FSM procedure doesn't squeeze the MLS HG enough? Can I safely tighten the head bolts now? Say another 25-45 degrees? Or is there an torque end-value that is actually achieved via the FSM process? Or is this a moot point, and I should be preparing for a HG replacement? I watch my gauges and fluids religiously, so I know that I could probably get away with driving it more without overheating. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg
  4. Searched with no luck. Anybody got the cometic part # for the gasket to put EJ22e heads onto the EJ25 block?
  5. Hello people. Long time no see So... I bite the bullet once again and bought another soobie with a known problem. This time a '01 Legacy L with 180K miles on it and leaking *everything* (according to the inspection the previous owner had a month or so ago). The P.O. mentioned the car overheated once, and the shop he went to charged him $300+ to replace a hose close to the back of the intake manifold but told him the left head gasket is leaking coolant, there's oil leaking, power steering, etc. Anyway... I'll be replacing the head gaskets and I have read a few threads about the components I can expect to be replacing, with the list varying from just head gaskets to a long list including seals and whatnot. Question #1: Since I plan on work on the engine outside the car, and the heads will be out anyway, I was wondering if it makes sense to buy one of the kits including valve seals. I'm guessing at 180K those may be close to the end of their useful life, but I may be wrong. Replacing valve seals implies replacing the valves themselves as well, right? Is there any other service that I should do/have done on the heads while they are out? How much can I expect to pay a shop for checking the heads and replacing the valve seals? Question #2: Beside the head gaskets I'll be replacing the timing belt-related stuff, including water pump. I installed a kit from ebay (Mizumo) on the EJ22 I put on the outback, but since the EJ251 is interference I don't want to take unnecessary risks. I'm considering buying the Gates timing belt components from Rockauto, but I don't know if there's a significant advantage in getting an Aisin water pump (WPF-002, probably from Amazon) vs just getting the one coming with the kit from Gates. Do you people have any preference, or are they all the same? Question #3: If it's not broken don't fix it. Except for... ? Maybe cleaning the EGR? What else? Thank you in advance!
  6. I don't really want to admit this here......but I thought it was good info to share to save others a headache. Espescially those of use with piles of Subaru parts lying everywhere. So.....the point. EJ25d heads use a shorter bolt than the EJ22e. About 8mm shorter. How'd I find out you ask??? Well.....my freshly rebuilt (rings, bearings, valve job, port and polish) EJ22 started showing headgasket signs Heater blowing cold, overpressurized system, coolant pushed out the resevior, and once enough lost, car runs hot/overheats. So I said.....damn......well......it's new engine with composite gasket.......Why not retorque? It's only been 10k miles or so, and the head bolts are outside the valve covers on an EJ22e so why not. Well when I put a wrench on the middle bolts on the drivers side the bolt turned, too easy, waaaaay to easy.....and just kept spinning and spinning. So did the next one. So did the middle ones on the other side. Outer bolts torqued down ok.....but I knew it was not good. Drove a few days more and now the headgaskets were worse. So yesterday I pulled it and dropped a EJ18 in for temporay use. Took apart the EJ22 and found I had used the short EJ25d bolts! NOOOOOOOOO!!! they were only catching 4 or 5 threads and stripped out the threads in the block. Took off both heads, dropped the oil pan, and took the shortblock into the machine shop to fit with inserts. Dumb mistake. Don't be a dummy. You've been warned.
  7. I have a 1998 Impreza that I'm thinking about buying, it only has 86,xxx miles on it with the 2.2L, The question I have is If I get it I was going to do the timing belt, water pump and tennioners on it since it's close to that 90,000 mark and with it being an interference engine I rather be safe then sorry.. Anyhow I was wondering since I have it apart should I do the head gaskets, or just leave them alone and run her