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Found 53 results

  1. Does anyone know if the short block from an 03 Subaru Forester 2.5 SOHC with the dual cylinder exhaust ports uses the same short block as an 04 Subaru Outback 2.5 SOHC with the single cylinder exhaust port? I have the short block that came from the Outback and the cylinder heads that came off the Forester and was hoping I could combine the two to make a complete motor. If anyone could tell me whether they are compatible I would appreciate it.
  2. Ok, I have read many forums with many conflicting replies with the following pursuit. A Ej25 block with EJ22 heads for higher compression. The following are my perameters of the build that I hope you guys can help me with. 1). I have limited room for this build. This is not going into subaru, so I have a maximum engine width to be 28 1/2", rocker cover to rocker cover. so I believe I will need phase 1 heads to do this. 2). I would like it to be SOHC. not DOHC not enough room and heavier. 3). It must be NA, so no forced induction of any kind please. 4). I would like it use existing available parts from donor. 5). Which ECU for up to 6500rpm? 6). Which head gaskets and will I need? And will I need to port the combustion chamber to match the cylinders? 7). Any other info that would help? 8). What would the estimated compression come to? What is the best way to start this project and with what phases,1 or 2 and years of these heads and blocks I would like the outcome to be around 185 crank hp or more if possible. And be a more mid range rpm. I don't require a high revving motor.
  3. Basically.... About 3 weeks ago car was intermittent no start. Cranking was rough/rumbly and gas pedal hadda be teased in order for it to sometimes start. Attached a missing ground strap and car was reliable for a few weeks. Still had a bit of a rough/rumbly start but at least started and drove. It ran fine, but I pulled the motor for HG job and no spark after re-install. Tested coil pack resistance, tested bad. Swapped coil pack....didn't help. Power to coil pack, no signal to coil pack. Crank sensor & cam sensors pass resistance tests. Checked wiring to ECU, passed. Reinstalled ECU, engine started and ran for 15 seconds including idling and revs but no issue was actually solved... But we reinstalled accessories. Again, no spark, no signal to coil. Fuses tested/examined, so not a fuse. It's a 2001 Subary Legacy Outback 2.5/EJ25. Any advice on what might be going on or how to test the ECU would be great help.
  4. Hey all, Recently I've been discovering posts about changing the location of the thermostat from the bottom of the engine, in front of the water pump, to the top radiator hose right after the coolant exits the engine. This is supposed to reduce cavitation, and I've been having problems with an ej25d overheating. Ive ordered new hoses, radiator, and thermostat, and I'm thinking about doing this inline thermostat mod. Am I wasting my time thinking about this mod? I've always had a hard time burping the ej25d system so maybe this would help? This would also be easier to replace, and in theory reduces cavitation at the water pump. Has anyone done it? What are some experiences with it?
  5. I have a rebuilt sohc ej25 sitting in my garage that I'm about to finish building out. I’m trying to figure out if it’s an ej253 or an ej254 or other. I do not have the VIN # from the donor vehicle. Is there a way to visually figure out which variant I have? Thanks, -bob
  6. I'm not entirely new to Subaru but I haven't don't much to an engine yet, however I am planning to rebuild my engine on my 98 Foerster limited, and I'm worried I'll botch it. Any advice?
  7. So last week my stock alternator died. I replaced it with my GM 1 wire alternator 60 amp , which i keep for just this type of circumstance. Since the tension bolt does not match up. I installed it with my Redneck wood shims method of tightness. Then on Monday i was able to get an JY alternator from a 2002 EJ25, $17.50 Below are the wiring diagrams I used. Now with everything on still have 14.1 at battery.
  8. I’m a car nerd and a hobbyist mechanic learning by getting my hands dirty. I picked up a 2003 Forester, Pacifica Blue with ~170k, bone stock, a great body and interior, and one big issue – overheating. After pulling the engine I found that some of the coolant passages were plugged solid. Mystery solved. It’s a bit crude but the attached picture features a flathead screwdriver stuck into the calcification – that’s how dense it is. I have to assume the smaller internal passages are just as bad, though the water pump itself was clean and the passenger's side passages aren't *as* bad. I was told phosphoric acid cleaner would eat away at it, but would it really get it all? I know the most effective way would be to pull everything and have the block hot tanked. I’m worried I’ll jump into a money pit of pistons / rings / bearings if I go that route. The engine ran well, and I can still see factory crosshatching on the cylinder walls. IMO they don't look bad but other people say they do. It might get headers and exhaust some day but it will most likely remain totally stock. I have head / intake / exhaust / oil pan / valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, head bolts, thermostat, timing belt, water pump, and more waiting to go on. I’m pondering my options before the heads go to the machine shop. Because of new circumstances I need this to be my daily driver, so I'm trying to save money. On the other hand, I want to do things properly and reliably the first time. Advice has ranged from “chip away what you can” to “buy a different block” ... what would you do? High-res images here https://imgur.com/a/eGBDm Edit: attached another image - is that oil weeping past the rings?
  9. Hey Everybody. Long time no write! It's been too long since I posted anything.. Busy with work and things. You know the drill. In the next week or so, I'll be performing the EJ20 swap in my 05 Forester. My engine has over 180 miles, has oil leaks, including the rear main seal, and has some really nice piston slap. If not for that last thing, I'd fix the leaks. I have some long distance driving coming up this spring - Death Valley for one - and I simply don't ant to get stuck somewhere with a blown engine. I decided an engine swap is the best solution. I tried finding another EJ25, but those are impossible to find, so a JDM EJ20 is on its way. I'm aware of the various thing that need to be swapped over from the old engine - cam and crank sprockets, sensors, intake manifold - but I have a question. Is the timing belt different between the two? I recently changed mine on the 25, and it would be nice if they were. If they are not, what car should I order from. All of the auto stores order according to vehicle, and since the Forester only comes with the 25, I know from previous experience I won't get the right part. Also, I'm curious how this swap has gone for others. I've read that the idle is smoother, but you do lose a bit of torque on acceleration. I can live with that.
  10. I'm attempting to turbo my N/A ej22, car is a 1999 Legacy L 30th Anniversary edition. I don't see why a phase 2 ej25 head won't mate up with the phase 2 ej22 block and they are both SOHC but I know that there is greater wisdom than I posses lurking in these forums. My ej22 block has single port heads and I want to swap them our for the ej25 duel port heads in order to run boost. what issues do I face? will the heads mate right up to the ej22 in a "plug and play" way? will my stock ECU know what to do with the ej25 cam? Any general advice? I will also be switching the full intake manifold so advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Are there different sensors I need to be aware of? Line placement issues?
  11. I changed out original 276K motor with used 76K . Outback is 5 spd manual. Did all wear point replacement and of gaskets / 5 Star HG. Car had been running great. Normal MPG 28 or so. No symptoms displayed before breakdown. Sold to my friend and has now come back to me for the repair. I did not use a genuine Subaru timing belt so that is in the back of my head. Compression is about 50% ~ 110psi. No spark with induction timing light. Car sounds different than I remember when turning over also. Oil is clean. So any other suggestions before I start disassembly? Any experience with premature timing belt failures? This was my 5th Subaru timing belt and easiest since I had the motor out. So could the belt have slipped one tooth and reduced the compression? Why no spark with an induction timing light? Any advice appreciated.
  12. Hello, I was talking with a reputable engine builder about my engine EJ25. He told to to look at my Oil Pump housing number in the upper left corner. If it is a 7 or 9 he recommends getting a better pump. Either the 11mm or 12mm pumps. Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm going to talk with him today in detail to see what happens to these pumps.
  13. My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc?
  14. Taylorhenson67

    2003 Impreza RS engine swap

    My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc?
  15. Taylorhenson67

    2003 Impreza RS engine swap

    My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc?
  16. I have a 2003 2.5l Impreza rs that recently blew its sohc ej25 engine. Would I be able to direct swap a 2.5l ej254 dohc engine without having a buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, sensors, etc?
  17. Hey everyone. Have an interesting puzzle here. EJ25 in a '99 Outback. Its been running great, but a week or so ago the check engine light came on, and the codes said P0303 and P0304 (cylinder 3 and 4 misfire). My wife said the car lugged a bit at low RPMs right when it happened, but it was running fine after that as well as when I was checking it later that day. Since the two codes came at the same time, I thought it might be the coil at fault. I didn't know how old the plugs were, so I figured it was time for a tuneup and gave it a new coil, new wires, and four new NGK plugs. (The old plugs looked fine.) It ran well after that, just as well as before. But a day later the CEL came on again, this time for misfire codes for the OTHER pair of cylinders- P0301 and P0302 for cylinders 1 and 2. I was along when it happened, and the engine continued running seemingly normally. We monitored it for a few days, and it still idles smoothly, revs, and accelerates under load completely normally. The only observable abnormal thing it did is kick up to a fast idle a few times while we were stopped in traffic waiting for a train to pass. (AC/defrost was not on.) I've done some searching, and found quite a number of things that could cause misfires... But the fact that my misfires were always in pairs, and that the pair moved to the other two cylinders after the coil/wire/plug change, has me stumped. Any thoughts on what I might check next? Thanks
  18. Hello! I have oil leaking from front of engine and would like to remove my oil pump to check for pump and seal failures. I am wondering if anyone has had experience performing this without removing the engine or if this would even be possible. I would love to hear any advice/steps involved in the process if so. I drive a 99 Subaru legacy outback Wagon with the ej25 engine. To me it looks like it can be done, but I wanted to get an experienced second (or more) opinion before diving in. Thanks in advance!
  19. Hey There! My names Happy. I am a suburu lover with little mechanical skill asking some navigating questions. BASIC STORY: My car crashed, 98 Legacy L, 218,000 miles EJ22 Automatic tranny Needed too much maintenance on top of the raidiator and body work (new brakes, axle boot....more), though the engine and core components seemed fine. Sold it, eventually letting it go to good people for $400. Engine and Tranny seem great. My friend has a 98 Outback, 260,000 EJ25 Manual tranny As I read is common to those, he has burnt valves (not sure which). He's selling the car. Pretty good shape, needs a starter soon, clutch soon maybe. Big story summed up in a few words: these cars have history together, I got the one partially because I liked my friend's, they are the same color, there is some special spirituality stories that go with each of them them and make them like soul mates (long trippy story), and even my buyers had a link in the tale. TURNS OUT, the people that bought my car goofed and needed a different engine. They are waiting to sell it or part it. I believe my EJ22 can go in the 98 outback in place of EJ25. My basic navigating questions: Possible? Practical with those mileage levels? Any random things that might discourage me from trying to make that happen? If you could be hired to do that job, what would you estimate the labor charge? Thank you for your time :-)
  20. So since a quick search revelaed nothing on " tow bar" figured it was OK to start a thread. Figured with plenty of friend's who have trucks, and genrally doing all sorts of stupid things it would be a good idea to have tow bars on my subarus. Seems like it would make it a lot easier to get home if a buddy with a super duty could just hook up and tow me home VS calling a tow. ( at 300 miles between major towns tows get expensive) So the question : Anyone use a harbor freight tow bar on their Subaru ? I plan to use one on my 1993 2.2 legacy and my 1998 subaru outback legacy. This is the product I am looking at: http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-adjustable-tow-bar-94696.html Thanks for looking and contributing. ( open thread so long as relatively on topic its good :0D )
  21. Engine type EJ251AXBWL in a 2002 Outback, the AC belt jumped and was wound up behind the timing belt cover and the crank pulley. Part of the timing belt cover was melted by the crank pulley which was rubbing on the timing belt cover. I removed the crank pulley and the timing belt cover. The timing belt seems to be a good condition with only 40K miles since it was last replaced. The timing belt cover is slightly bubbled near where the crank pulley would be. The crank pulley itself has a couple places where there are tiny notches broken away. My first question is, has anyone seen this before? I am trying to figure out the cause of the AC belt failure. Looking at the Alternator Belt, this belt is well worn with cracking and a couple of missing pieces of splines. Now I am in the process of ordering replacement parts. Besides the Alternator and AC belts, and the timing belt cover, do you think I should replace the timing belt cover gaskets? I could take a file and smooth out the tiny notches in the crank pulley or should I replace it too? Thank you in advance for your comments!
  22. Hi all, so a lot has happened since I last posted, right now I'm up to my neck in rebuilding my engine. Sort of. Long story short, my last oil change I decided to try synthetic blend because my buddy kept bugging me about how good it is and how much better it wears and blah blah blah. I know it's good stuff, just when it's used in the right situation. I put blend in and then unknown to me, my engine started leaking oil a lot faster than I realized. One day coming home from work the engine died on me and when I started it again I got a terrible knocking noise. My oil had gotten way too low, and the damage had already been done. All my rod bearings were shot and I just found out my crankshaft is toast. Due to time and money restrictions I've got a reman'd short block on it's way as well as a new clutch and a master seal and gasket kit that has new oil and water pumps. The only thing left is I would like to replace the timing belt and all its paraphernalia. I've looked at the stuff direct from Subaru and I've also looked at kits on eBay and Amazon and I'm not sure which would be better. Can anyone recommend one or the other? I'm not afraid to just get them from Subaru but are the cheaper kits on eBay and Amzon any good? Thanks for any help in advance David
  23. Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
  24. I've been working on swapping an engine from a 99 legacy outback (manual transmission) in to a 98 forester (automatic transmission) I finally went to put the engine in the forester today and noticed the one of the studs on the engine wasn't protruding through the transmission bell housing. So I looked over the old engine I had pulled from the forester and noticed that it only had two studs on the engine whereas the one from the outback had four. After many creative searches and reading many threads I had decided to see if anyone in this community of knowledge has any light to shed on this for me. This seems like an uncommon configuration for the studs on a EJ25 as most pictures I have see only have the two bottom studs. So can I pull the stud from the engine and just use the old bolts off the forester as I was planning to do? If so how do you remove the stud? Are they any other weird problems that I am likely to run into and should gear myself up for? It seems like 99 was a magic year for the EJ25...... Since I am writing this up I had one question regarding the lining up of the drive plate with the torque converter. Is there an easy way to line up the bolt holes or do you just have to guess and then move the drive plate by rotating the engine. I have it lined up now, and I doubt it will get out of line when I pull the engine, I'd just like to know if there was an easier way in the future. This is a picture of the engine I removed. I did find a picture of the an engine with the stud configuration like mine.
  25. So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.