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Found 22 results

  1. I have 2008 Outback LL Bean with auto climate control and recently, it stopped blowing any heat on the driver's side. I figured a clogged heater core was to blame, but before I dove into a flush, I decided to also check the actuators in the dash and see if they were working. I found that the driver's side actuator (72131AG27A) does not move when the hvac system is run through the positions and heat setttings. The passenger's side actuators, (three of them!) visibly move through the same hvac cycles. Figuring the driver's side actuator must be dead and stuck in the cold position, I've tried ordering the part, but have a hard time finding it. As of today, it's discontinued if I call a dealership. Some sites list it, but they cancel the order when they can't find it. Does anyone know if it's possible to repair a non responsive actuator? Is there another place to search for hard to find Subaru parts? Can I manually bypass the actuator to get heat? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  2. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  3. On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer.
  4. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  5. Good afternoon, I have a issue with the power steering which I believe is expelling all the air from the system. This all started as the pump needed to be changed as it began to fail, probably because of a bad o-ring on the intake spout. Parts changed: Pump, o-ring and reservoir to pump pipe. The issue is that while the car is in the air and the wheels are being turned, there is very little to no noise. As soon as I lower it on the ground and repeat the process, there is whining when i turn the wheels. I have been through the whole air bleeding process time after time and it still wont get any quieter than this. Observation: I did notice that as i turned the steering wheel left there was a 'juddering' in the wheels which can be felt through the steering wheel as well as observed. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  6. Hello fellow Scoob owners! I'll cut to the chase: Impreza, 2.5i 2007 Sedan 150,000 miles. When I drive hard (ie hold revs to roughly 4000rpm), something will happen whereby when i begin to slowdown, or reduce revs, it begins to overheat, (even if i idle even when in motion). Maybe I'm being a little specific here, but it will begin to overheat. I got home and felt the lower rad hose (by the thermo) and it was cold. I then bled the system of air after and everything seems to be ok until I repeat the action again. The head gasket has been recently changed with all new seals and gaskets, along with thermostat and rad cap. I'm completely at a miss here, any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  7. HI, I was wondering if any could tell me if the 2005 Subaru Impreza base model wagon body style is the same as the 2007. I need to replace the two passenger side doors and the rear bumper so i was wondering if i take these parts of the 2005 model if I will be able transfer them to the 2007 model. Any information on this subject would be super helpful Thankss
  8. Hello, I would like to get information from actual Legacy owners who have Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks with either GT or Regular Legacy OEM springs. The questions I have are: 1. How does it ride? 2. Do you have any pictures of the car (before & after) installed. 3. Do these struts & shocks have any drawbacks? The KYB that are on it now are bouncy... I don't like them at all. Thank you
  9. Okay, it's a 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited. I have owned this car for about a month and half or so. It has 99,500 on it. Today I am driving and the engine loses power/stalls, I try to restart it, with no luck. I get the car home and want to make sure the timing belt was moving properly. When I remove the small part (driver side) I see metal shavings. I could press the timing belt down at least a 1/2" and I know that not good. I was honestly feeling a little sick/kind of depressed. I let the engine get cold before draining the antifreeze. Remove all the stuff (belts, alternator, harmonic balancer etc) I take the remaining bolts out of the timing belt cover, and there it is, the Timing Belt Tensioner bolt had sheared off.... the tensioner was just floating it its area kind of... I know the timing had to have moved, if you see the picture with the belt, the clip is to show you where it was... According to Carfax the car had a cam seal(s) installed and Timing belt tensioner & Idler check on 10/10/16 @ 96,764 miles at a NON Subaru repair place in Round Rock, TX... I won't say who YET but they should have seen the tensioner leaking, and they of course didn't. Now what to do next... I don't want a junkyard engine because - You get someone else issue. Thoughts
  10. Hello, I was talking with a reputable engine builder about my engine EJ25. He told to to look at my Oil Pump housing number in the upper left corner. If it is a 7 or 9 he recommends getting a better pump. Either the 11mm or 12mm pumps. Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm going to talk with him today in detail to see what happens to these pumps.
  11. Hello, My question is this. Is there a certain mile interval in which head gaskets should be replaced even if they are not showing any symptoms of leaking etc? I have heard some people say do it at 100k whether it needs it or not. Thanks for any advise
  12. Hello, I am wanting to take out my Instrument Panel Pad. Has anyone ever did this? Is there a procedure for it anywhere? Thanks for any help, Mike
  13. Hello, I read a article from a builder that recommended using a water pump that cooled better because the fins were more closed off than most that you see. He said that with the Closed Fin style, the cooled was forced into a more narrow patch/direction, versus the open style with allows the coolant to kind of cavitate and stay stagnant. Do they make a Closed Style for the 60 Legacy 2.5i non turbo? Thoughts? See Images below
  14. Hello, Well this is my first post on this site. I purchased a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5 and few days ago with 98,000 miles on it. It needs a new a new battery (old one has a date sticker on it of (Nov 2012) When I take it out I don't want it to have to relearn, and loose things like radio setting, etc. I recently purchased a Schumacher DSR Pro Series Model INC-7A-OBD memory saver. http://www.batterychargers.com/inc-7a-obd/ I was wondering if this WILL or WILL NOT hurt my system? Thanks for any help you can give. Mike
  15. Hi All, I was referred here from the CarTalk forum to seek advice on my to-be-crippled 2007 Forester. I'm the third owner of the vehicle, and the used dealer that I bought it from did a number of services to it before I purchased it, including new head gaskets. Well, his have started to fail now, and the Subaru specialist in town here has quoted me $2k for parts&labor. One person on the CarTalk forum suggested that it may be cheaper at a dealer, so some feedback on this would be appreciated -- is this a fair quote? The other thing I'm thinking about is selling the car, as I've been getting the P0420 engine code on and off for the past year now, and don't want to buy a new cat converter. How much is a fair price if I were to sell this to a dealer, and if I'm selling it privately? The car has 131k miles, a new radiator, all belts/hoses in good shape. Thanks so much! Ryan
  16. Hi All, We've just created an in-depth tutorial on changing the oil on your EJ201 2007 Subaru Impreza. We thought the members of USMB would find it useful. Tools Required Socket Set Flathead Screwdriver (To remove clips) Trolley Jack and Axle Stands Oil Pan See the guide in full here!
  17. Greetings! I have a 2007 2.5i Ltd. with 95K miles on it. I'm a DIYer interested to learn about what to watch out for on this car, what preventative stuff to do, and what the essential resources are (forums and other sites, parts sites, manuals, ...). I'm starting with swapping in a new passenger axle (torn boot) and doing a timing belt service (got the axle and a timing belt kit from FCP). Thank you for any advice! Best, Mark
  18. Hello, hello! I'm looking at a 2007 Impreza 2.5i Hatchback. I've never bought Subaru before so I'm asking for some guidance and help with my decision making. Are there any red flags I should consider before moving forward? Any typical problems I should be aware of during certain mileage markers? Any comments, positive or negative would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  19. Hi! im new to this forum, please help! ok so im 16 and i really love subarus.. specifically the 2006-2007 STi models. iv always wanted an STi since i was 12 and now that im older and going farther in life i just need to know certain things. i plan on buying a 2006 or 2007 WRX STi in the future..like when im 20+ years of age. ( please do not ask why i dont like the newer models of them because i just dont lol ) i want to know what kind of yearly salary or job do you think i ( or someone ) would need to be able to pay off an STi? specifically one thats used but still in good condition under 20-25k. give examples.. like a police officer? mechanic? engineer? etc.. or needs atleast 30-50k a year? i just dont know! i know that STi's are more costly to maintain than a WRX but still. please help.. give me details about everything. i do plan on getting mods
  20. Anyone else experience a turbo-induced blown engine? Our 2007 Sports 2.5XT suffered a blown engine last week as I was driving from San Francisco to Long Beach, and I'm wondering if anyone knows of similar events with other Turbo XT's. The dealer's mechanics where I had it towed to had to do an engine tear-down, and found that cylinder 4 was trashed, with a big chunk of it loose (Picture attached). Their opinion is that, since this cylinder works most closely with the turbo unit, the cylinder was constantly overheating. (Note: I'm not a car techie, so I realize my description may lack proper details, but I'm going by what I've been told over the phone.) Metal fatigue due to over heating apparently is the specific cause of the failure The engine block is not repairable. The dealer has quoted me a total price over $6000 complete repair. I am talking to Subaru America, as I am disappointed that the engine design may be partially responsible for this massive failure. Does anyone know of other turbos causing engine block failure? This Sports 2.5XT has got 136K miles, and has only been serviced by Subaru garages. We got it new in 2007. All driving has been on streets and highways. We still have a 1999 Forester (non-turbo), which chugs along nicely with about 150,000 K.
  21. I have a 2007 Subaru Legacy 2.5i, and there are barely any performance parts for it. Will any parts made for the GT fit my 2.5i? Like exhaust and coil overs? Also, do you need to buy aftermarket caster and camber kits when lowering a Subaru? Thanks.
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