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  1. I had a leak, in a coolant bypass hose. I used dry ice in the radiator to pressurize the cooling system, and the leak became much easier to find. Video. https://youtube.com/shorts/gN2hKFJvt3M?feature=share
  2. Hi all, EJ251 shortblock, EJ25 D heads, STI gaskets I'm getting an unbalanced shake/hesitation from 1800-2500 rpm. I can't effectively accelerate until rpms are above 2500. Taking off from a stop, the car feels bogged down. Plugs, Wires are less than a year old. Fuel pump/filter/strainer within 6 months. Coil and ignition module are within spec according to an FSM that I read. There was a vacuum leak with the purge solenoid under the intake manifold. It was not operating. Before I found that, my STFT, and LTFT indicated (at idle) 3-10%, and 18-25% respectively. After plugging the vacuum line I have the numbers seen in the photo below. I just did a leak-down test. According to the gauges, I'm within 10% for each cylinder. ALTHOUGH, I do hear/feel air escaping through the intake, and the oil filler tube. I followed this for instructions: I have also done multiple compression tests. For cylinder #3 is 225 psi, the remaining cylinders are between 210 and 215 psi. Can one cylinder being higher than the rest cause an unbalancing/misfire/poor low-end acceleration? Even if the numbers are good, the fact that I have air coming through the oil filler tube and intake, does this suggest the motor is shot? Check my timing again? Is there any change in timing instructions when mating an EJ251 with 25D heads? The heads are closer together, and the bolt holes for the intake manifold needed to be filed down a bit in order to properly bolt it onto the long-block. I've done a smoke test in/around the intake/intake manifold/hoses etc, and don't come up with anything. Thanks for the help, Greg
  3. My '06 WRX failed to get me more than 1/3 the way to work this morning. Had a few drops or 'water' up on the winshield near left A pillar, then had a subtle hot coolant smell. Then a wisp of steam. Pulled into a lot, popped the hood. Wet all around front left. High enough that it was blowing back from the hood at the fender panel. Never saw any pinhole stream or active dripping. O'flow tank at mid level , never overheated according to gauge. Went back home. Haven't looked in rad yet - cooling off now. Pulled the snorkel and saw a little gel-booger with dried white-ish deposit 'blown-back' from center-ish area of top tank.(will try to post pic, I haven't really firgured out how to do that very well yet) Everything so far looks like a crimp leak or maybe a crack? in top of rad.? Fans are cycling so, I feel the temp gauge was properly reporting and there seems to be no sign of a headgasket issue . Kinda also wondering about best replacement rad. Denso? TYC? Other? Is there a brand I should prefer or, maybe more important, avoid? I wouldn't ming paying for quality. In Texas, I need as much cooling capacity as I can get. Not really wanting to modify the car so, drop-in prefered of course. Any other work I should do 'while I'm in there' ? I have original hoses so, I plan to replace those. Although it's been wiped away, the little 'gel-like' deposit was near that bolt-head, on the vertical surface of the front brace above the rad's front crimp area. To me, obviously associated with that white deposit. Couold have been seeping for some time.
  4. On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer.
  5. Motor: EJ 251 block, stock pistons EJ 25D heads, STI headgaskets Transmission: 5mt 4.11 ends Hey folks, I have a question about RPMs and oil pressure. I have noticed that if I am to drive with RPMs above 3k, say on the highway or if I'm accelerating aggressively often that my oil level will drop quickly. I know that I am leaking from the lower half-moons on each lower-rear corner of the heads, and the rear main is leaking as well. If I am to drive around like a grandmother, and stay under 70 mph (under 3k rpm) on the interstate, that the oil leak is very slow, and I can last a month (two fuel fill-ups) before needing to add any additional oil. Could I be at too high of oil pressure when I'm in the higher RPM ranges? If I'm running a #9 oil pump, would this have any effect? I've yet to check the PCV valve, as it's maybe three years old. I will have this motor out in about a month or two, and was going to re-seal (and mate to 5mt from '05 GT-t wagon) it, but I'd like to try and address the theory now. Are there PCVs that work better for high compression options, if this is a contributor? Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated. Greg
  6. Hi guys, I have a 2010 WRX thats only hitting about 9lbs of boost on 91 octane SF Intake stage 1 tune Cobb AP. I was wondering if this is normal or should i be seeing higher PSI Levels? I also have noticed a exhaust smell coming from engine bay on passenger side...
  7. I have a 2010 Subaru Outback 2.4L with about 144,000 miles. I was doing an oil change on Monday and saw some fluid leaking. The area I've circled had fluid on it with it 'pooling' on the bolt near the middle of the circle. It appears to be coming from the front differential but I am by no means an expert and was wondering if I was right. I'm only guessing this because of the 'Diff Oil' label to the right. Last winter as part of some scheduled maintenance I had a Subaru dealer replace the differential oil since it was -40c out and a couple of the things were beyond my comfort level. Over the summer the Subaru is our second vehicle so it didn't get driven much but I started noticing some small spots of fluid on the driveway. I wasn't too worried and was going to check next time I was under there as there wasn't any major spots and I couldn't see anything from the top. If it is the a differential seal/gasket, it seems like something that needs replacing before it destroys itself from what I'm read but I wanted to get some thoughts before running ahead and doing something. Thanks!
  8. I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
  9. The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
  10. The videos.... 22 and 24 seconds I am trying to fix an oil leak at the rear min seal, but it looks like the larger ring isn't the thing that is leaking. It looks like an inner, orange ring is leaking, and that is not a part of the clutch replacement kit What is the name of the orange rubbery part? I think I need to replace it, because it looks like that's the only place the oil could've come from. Suggestions?
  11. So first post and all, gonna try my best to not step on too many toes, thus I apologize in advance for any faux pas. Well to start I’ll state that this wagon has sat for well over 10 years, had water in the cooling system, gas left in the fuel lines, and amongst myriads of problems not been run or driven. Amongst these issues are that the blower doesn’t work, kinda, and I don’t have heat or A/C, well, till today. I just started the wagon as usual, except the rpms which normally idle at 1200-1400 (trying to figure this out too) dropped to 500 and there was a loud click from within the dash and suddenly the blower motor turned on. Interestingly it doesn’t turn after this first time. More so, whilst it was running I was estatic to find that the heater core was good and I was able to get heat, along with all 4 fan speeds. Fast forward 7hours. I went for lunch and upon starting the car for the first time after the blower suddenly worked, it no longer does. And after getting food and coming up to the wagon there is a large pool of coolant under it, figures... After returning from lunch I open my hood to find coolant sprayed across nearly everything. The source is, so far as I can discern, the manifold that connects to the heater core is spraying a jet of coolant onto the torque converter, thus spraying it across the engine bay and creating the large pool of fluid.For more specifics refer to pictures. Also as of taking these photos it has become twice as bad, rather 2 jets instead of 1. What I cannot figure out is threefold: 1- what part this actually is, as the number is covered by the intake, thus I cannot search it 2- if it’s removable without too much headache 3- why the blower motor suddenly works after 3 months and then just as suddenly doesn’t, yet the heater and A/C controls after an equal amount of time not working, are still working
  12. 1992 Loyale with 187K I poured water into the intake port on the head and found out that three valves leak. I am going to rent a valves spring compressor and address that. Should I do the fourth one? When I poured water into the exhaust port there were no leaking exhaust valves. Why? Should I do them too? I have never done that kind of work so any suggestions/recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sam
  13. I have been marooned for months now, living by my wits, doing evertything to save my Subaru Brat and my practical life. I have now succeeded in getting carb rebuilt, replacing water pump & almost a dozen gaskets, and other parts/ewprk/etc. Same problem persists.| Some months ago mechanic rebuilt carb, used two carb gaskets instead of one, after that water was spewing into carb, blew out whole water/coolant stystem, caused all kinds of problems. It has been HELL, and any other engine, I could not have got this far. Got it barely/technically running, was able to come into town, gtet supplies and to use wifi and post this. Not sure when I willo be able to c heck this post/thread/etc again, maybe tomorrow or soon, depending on all too many things. How is water still going into my carburetor?!? How can I stop it? Engine runs, very hard to start, for potentially obvious reasons. I suspect something wrong where the intakje manifold is concerned. There is a small coolant hose, about the size of a fuel line in diameter, going from one part of the manifold to another ver near each other near the distributor. Could that be it? Can I plug them up without causing serious danger or problems for engine? I have to stop this water from coming into my carb!!! Help ?!?!?
  14. My 2004 Subaru Outback wagon failed inspection today due to an oil leak. I saw the oily mess under the front end. They cleaned all the oil off the underside and put in UV dye to diagnose the leak. I'm supposed to go back tomorrow for a diagnosis, but I suspect they're going to "diagnose" something super expensive and possibly, totally unnecessary. Why? Because the very first thing they suggested was, "it's probably the head gasket." The head gasket was replaced at 140k miles in 2012 by a Subaru dealership I trust (in another state.) Since then, it's never overheated (never even close!) no white smoke, no coolant issues at all, no chocolate-milky oil goop, no head gasket symptoms. It's at 190k miles now, and the oil was changed just last week. (In another state at my parent's mechanic, he mentioned an oil leak but said it was "nothing serious.") Attached is a photo of the area they cleaned (I drove it 5 miles, took picture.) Can anyone point to a more likely source of the oil leak? I'd like to go in there tomorrow having a clue, but I can't even identify the parts in the photo. That's the oil pan, right? Could it honestly be the head gasket again? So soon? Help? Advice? Pity?
  15. OK. 2000 Outback with 2.5 and 4eat. Son thought it was an off-road vehicle and did some mudding and crashed the transmission pan on a rock. Sloow leak from tiny hole in dent, eventually would not engage drive and that's when I was informed. Lots of mud removed, pan replaced, internal filter while I was there, new fluid. Runs super. Couple weeks later son complains car not engaging drive again. See posts about leaky seals and bad pumps etc. So decide to get Trans-x. At Autozone with Trans-x in hand find out atf not registering on dipstick! In with Trans-x and nearly 2 qt of atf and all ok again. NEXT DAY it is 1qt down again and I CANNOT FIND A LEAK ANYWHERE! Are there any mystery places atf can go???
  16. I recently got a 1996 Legacy Outback as my first car, and it has driven great for the first 5000 miles that I've owned it. A couple days ago, however, I noticed some what I think is coolant below the engine. Then yesterday I noticed some more pooling beneath the engine. After checking again today, none has leaked. It seems to me that the location of the leak is next to a radiator hose and timing belt cover (but not on the hose itself). You can see the two shiny drops of fluid in the attached picture. There is no overheating, "off" smells, or any other behavior out of the ordinary-- just the leaking. Any idea what may be the cause of this leak, and what I should do about it? I'm not too mechanically savvy, and this my first car, so any help is much appreciated!
  17. I have an oil leak (maybe multiples) coming from my 96 subaru impreza outback 2.2L (268,000 miles). There was gunk and dirt and oil pretty much everywhere so to help find the leak we cleaned everything up with degreaser. After driving it around I found no signs of dripping but I am getting lots of smoke off my exhaust especially where the connector is. I'm thinking it could be a main seal or separator plate or perhaps even a differential leak but nothing is obvious so I'm quite unsure without any real knowledge of what to do next. In the last 4k miles I've only had to add a quart of oil to the car which doesn't seem like a lot given how much it has been smoking. The diff oil was slightly low as well as the tranny fluid but both within range. Any suggestions on what to do now?
  18. Hi, I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy L Sedan with the stock engine (2.2L EJ22/E), and occasionally, thin white smoke will seep out of the passenger side of the hood. I'm also leaking oil (but who isn't?), and I think oil is leaking onto the exhaust header and burning off. I don't really have any clue where the leak is actually coming from, though. I've already replaced the valve cover gaskets, and that didn't really do anything. I've kept her filled up with oil, so the engine still runs fine, but I would some day like to actually have it fixed.
  19. Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam
  20. Well I have put the motor install on hold since it has been raining since Tuesday. Today I was grabbing a tool and noticed the foot well on drivers side is wet. Car is on jack stands and tilted back. Would this be the windshield seal? Just re-seal with more silicone? 1995 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
  21. Like the title says, I have an automatic 1983 GL turbo wagon. I had it towed to my house due to a "massive" transmission leak. The tow truck couldn't fit up my driveway, so we (meaning my boyfriend and I) filled the transmission fluid and started it up. After a few seconds white smoke came billowing out of the exhaust but we had to get it up the driveway and behind the house. It went into 1st gear and reverse (but only briefly) so those gears appear to work. After consulting the repair manual we pulled the vacuum modulator and it had definitely given up the ghost. It was full of ATF, as was every vacuum line we checked. After replacing the modulator and a few bits of vacuum line (though in hindsight maybe we should have done all of it?) we started it up and the amount of white smoke was reduced, but still pretty bad. We let it run for a minute or so, then drove it around the block, hoping to purge the ATF from the lines. It still smoked, and with renewed gusto every time you hit the gas pedal. The woman I bought it from quite possibly drove it over 100 miles sucking ATF into the vacuum line so my suspicion is that there is a reservoir of ATF fluid somewhere in the vacuum system (maybe the evap canister?) that is causing it to continue to smoke even though the modulator is now working as it should. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am tempted to see if I can just "drive" it out but the car is not legal to drive yet so cruising down the road billowing white smoke is not something I want to do unless it's a sure fix. A few more relevant details: All this went down yesterday. Today, all the fluid levels look good and there is no cross contamination. There isn't even a drip of ATF under the car. Vacuum lines are not pouring out ATF like they were before the modulator replacement, but there is still some residue/vapor in them. Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!
  22. I drove to work. Everything was fine. Then I'm told there's oil under my car. I checked the dip stick and I only have a bit less than full. That said, my car has a drip or few every couple days. It isn't dripping oil in this huge spot anymore. Does anyone think this released from the oil pressure relief valve or do I probably have a bigger problem? I will update the post as I find out more. I have to get my car to level ground at the end of the day and check other fluids. (The second small puddle in the back is AC condensation. Water.)
  23. I have a 1987 subaru gl AT-4WD-1.8 LITER The transfer case keeps filling up with fluid from the transmission.I took it to a mechanic and he did not know how to fix it.Need a subaru man who knows whats going on. Help!
  24. I have 1987 subaru gl 1.8 liter 4 wd The transmission fluid is leaking into transfer case.My mechanic had it apart but could not fix it.Says i need to replace tranny and case.There has to be something else to do for now.. before that. Need help ....
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