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Found 10 results

  1. I have been marooned for months now, living by my wits, doing evertything to save my Subaru Brat and my practical life. I have now succeeded in getting carb rebuilt, replacing water pump & almost a dozen gaskets, and other parts/ewprk/etc. Same problem persists.| Some months ago mechanic rebuilt carb, used two carb gaskets instead of one, after that water was spewing into carb, blew out whole water/coolant stystem, caused all kinds of problems. It has been HELL, and any other engine, I could not have got this far. Got it barely/technically running, was able to come into town, gtet supplies and to use wifi and post this. Not sure when I willo be able to c heck this post/thread/etc again, maybe tomorrow or soon, depending on all too many things. How is water still going into my carburetor?!? How can I stop it? Engine runs, very hard to start, for potentially obvious reasons. I suspect something wrong where the intakje manifold is concerned. There is a small coolant hose, about the size of a fuel line in diameter, going from one part of the manifold to another ver near each other near the distributor. Could that be it? Can I plug them up without causing serious danger or problems for engine? I have to stop this water from coming into my carb!!! Help ?!?!?
  2. Hi all, I'm a newbie and have been lurking the past few days...... anyways I just picked up an 89 GL 4x4 5 speed for $600. I basically bought it sight unseen because it's a sweet old subaru and I'm looking for a winter project to work on. This thing leaks a lot of oil and coolant so I figured I would pull the engine and redo the seals and gaskets etc... I am by no means a mechanic but I figured fixing up an old car would be a good way to learn. Then I noticed this hole in what I believe is the cylinder head on the passenger side. It's right next the exhaust pipe connection. Do I need a new head? or is this repairable? I hate to get too involved in something that will end up being junked. Thanks in advance!
  3. Hello, At work right now so my full research will start when I get home, but figured it would be nice to have some pointers of where to look in the forum ( keywords, etc) and maybe where to look on my car to better assist my research phase. **my 1998 subaru Outback 2.5l auto with about 130k miles popped check engine light. -Drove it about 12 miles, checked fluids ( oil, Brake fluid, trans , coolant ) all looked good. - pulled battery Cable to try and reset light in case it was a one time thing. -Reconnected battery, Started car , idled until temp guage started reading, still check engine light. -Turned off car fluid check again . . . oil was way low, looked under car, 0.5 + quarts dumped right under the car. seemed to be coming from Driver side left of engine above the lower Radiator hose connection behind the plastic cover that is behind the belts. Wondering if it ends up being a big issue if swapping from the 2.5 to the 2.2 is a common thing ? The research and Adventure now begins! Any thoughts, questions or pointers would be awesome. ( will be doing a photo bucket account or the like to get plenty of photos flowing :0)
  4. I'm new to this board, but I'm on several other ones. I need to know the answers to this problem quickly, please help! I'm doing the head gaskets on my 1998 Legacy Outback EJ25 DOHC. I've rounded off several of the cam cap bolts on the passenger side head because the metal is very soft. 1. How can I remove these bolts without getting metal shavings in my head? 2. What can I do to prevent having the same problem on the other head? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hello guys, got a vehicle with no history. Overheats after 20-25 min of driving on highway, or 10-15 in the city. Subaru Legacy Sedan 2006 Automatic Non turbo. Pulled the engine, took off the heads and found the crack in two heads in "unusual place for cracks". Was wondering what you guys think, if it's a big deal or not; repairable or fixable, can I get just the top parts? 1A: looks like a crack, don't know if it's deep or not. 1B: looks like a tiny hole, don't think it's deep, also not sure how important it is.. Also, first of all I want to do it right without spending much money (as we all are), but.. How important is it to take the heads to machine shop overall? (adjusting the valves, checking the pressure, cleaning) In my case do I have to do it, or I can just clean them up carefully, change the valve seals and good to go? I guess I would say if you can put yourself on my place, and ask other questions if there is Any suggestions would be really appreciated! Thank you!
  6. A few weeks ago I noticed a coolant leak, and tracked it down to an intake manifold gasket -- no problem, just pull the manifold and replace the gasket (or so I thought). I wound up busting a stuck bolt, and had to drill it out, unfortunately I managed to drill through a head mounting stud in the process -- I didn't notice this, however, until I tried to turn the engine over and wound up filling my cylinders with coolant. Now, I need to replace a stud, and probably the head as well -- I put a small divot in the bottom of the thru-hole while drilling through the stud, I assume that it is this combination of busted stud, plus divot, that led to coolant in the cylinder. Does anyone have any advice, or a head (left side, ea81) they can sell me? I'm in Albuquerque, NM
  7. Ok so I know I could have avoided this by running coolant. So really i just let the cold kill my car.. But my radiator has had a mean leak so I've been topping it off with water almost daily. It's a ea81 82' GL. Below freezing temps hit and froze all the water. Yesterday it happened aswell I started it up and the belt was squeeling on the water pump pulley so I shut it off then topped off the radiator with warm water and let it sit for a minute. I turned the pulley by hand to make sure it was not frozen and started it up. Warmed up fine and drive me to work and back. Today I start it up and same thing, all frozen. I let it run for about 30 seconds with the belt slipping on the frozen water pump pulley. Shut it off and added some warm water to melt the ice. It took a LOT of water this time. All the ice seemed to be melted. Turned it over again and it ran very rough the while motor was vibrating like it never has. I shut it off for a minute and turned it over again to have it start very rough and make one or two terrible knocking/clanking noises then die. Then it just wouldn't turn over at all like its seized/locked up. I pop the hood to find oil/water mixture oozing out of the intake!?? Into the air cleaner box. The water in the radiator had oil mixed in aswell. I know this is bad but my question to you is what's my damage?? I'm fairly new to cars so please bare with me. Thanks in advance !
  8. I have a 96 Legacy L Wagon with an EJ22 in it. I have 120,000 on the car, I bought it 3,000 miles ago. Now I have a head gasket leaking coolant from the passenger side under the timing belt cover (according to my mechanic). The car runs fine. It has not overheated. I brought it in to have the cam and crank seals done because they were dumping oil. I am reading more and more about how uncommon this head gasket issue is on the 2.2. I am starting to wonder if this guy has it wrong. Is there something else I should check out? In order to do this, I need to cut some of the parts costs. Do I have to get OEM head set? Is there something more reasonably priced available that will hold up for the many miles I have left on this engine if I can get it on track again? Quoted parts: $440 That seems higher than it has to be from my searches around the web. Do I have to put in a new head bolt, too? I know some are designed to expand once. Is that true on this? Quoted: $125 I have checked out few videos showing how easy it is to plane the heads, too. Easy enough for me to do on my own without messing it up? That would cut a significant cost for me, too. Quoted: $150 I would love to dig into it myself, but without a lot of experience, I need a big confidence boost or someone who knows more than me to help me out with it. Thanks for you help.
  9. Does anyone know where I could get a set of head gaskets for my (EJ253) 01' lego with the 2.5 SOHC, But I want to get a set of head gaskets for the turbo'd 2.5 and need to find a place to get them that would my 01' lego
  10. Hi all, Current vehicle of question: 1999 Outback Wagon, 2.5l DOHC, 120k, Second owners... This is a friend's car that I'm helping out with, and am hoping to get some good insight. Knew that this would be the place. Story: The car was bought last October, and has had 9000 miles put on it by a very calm and defensive driver... They started noticing the thermostat indicating it getting hot. After watching it, they noticed the coolant was low, and that they needed to add. Then they noticed air being forced into the coolant reservoir. They took it to a few independent subaru shops, and got the same answer: Blown Head Gaskets, and bad Viscous Coupler (for a different post....). So we pulled the motor, and started getting the heads off. It had the old style HG (http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/), and they were both bad My question has to deal with the driver side head in particular... While taking the intake camshaft retainers off, a pressurized aqueous solution squirted out at us from under the retainers. Also, two of the camshaft retainer bolts were heavily corroded. Is this a sign of a cracked head? I plan on submerging the head in a tub of water, and spraying compressed air into the retainer bolt holes. If there are bubbles from anywhere, I'm assuming the head is bad? Should we be concerned with the block internals being compromised? How much should another head cost, and should they just slap a 2.2L in there (I'm in favor...)? The oil that we drained from the pan is not chocolaty/frothy. And there was maybe a gallon of coolant that drained out of the system. Thanks, Greg
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