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Found 192 results

  1. My outback is saying misfire on cylinder 3 & 4. Shop says try unplugging MAF sensor while acting up, and that will tell me if that's the problem. Can't find it for the life of me. They sell MAF sensors for this year, but I see in various forums that there is no MAF sensor in this model. Please help. I've found the MAP sensor. I also replaced plugs and wires. Going to replace coil pack next.
  2. My 2003 H6 Outback transmission seems to work very well and shifting is very smooth but I have one complaint. When attempting to accelerate quickly it is very slow to respond and downshift. When starting from a full stop it's fine, but if I'm moving forward at much speed it seems to want to stay in high gear. If I floor it sometimes it's 2-3 seconds before it will downshift. This has caused me some embarrassment a few time when trying to pull in to traffic and merge and the car just does not go. There is no floor mat obstruction. I've seen a few threads where this is complained about but no real solutions mentioned. Ideally I would have the performance button to resolve this but this car is not equipped with that and it's apparently not feasible to add. My daughters Impreza 2.5i has very impressive throttle response even with the smaller engine. (electronic throttle) I've seen mention of removing the battery to get some algorithm to re-learn something. It that really a thing? Any suggestions or is this just the way it is? Thanks.
  3. On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer.
  4. Frustration! What’s the deal w/ the socket size for the 2018 Outback drain plug? 14mm is too big. 13mm is too small. Has Subaru decided to make us buy a special tool for changing our own oil??? Thanks.
  5. I'm new here and new to Subarus. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5 automatic AWD, and I think it needs a new transmission. The model number on the bell housing is tz102z2cba-dt. I've found a japanese import transmission that I'm told will work, model number tz102z1caa-dg apparently from a 1998 Outback. Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm looking for a direct replacement, if possible, and I'm having some difficulty finding these model numbers online to really compare them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Please help! I just bought a 99 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 2.5l H4 motor and automatic trans. Car has 46k miles. I used Seafoam through a vacuum line to clean the engine because I was told the car had been sitting for a while. I put 1/3 of the can in at idle and then shut the car off to let the product soak in for 30 min. Upon starting the vehicle back up I noticed the AT oil temp flashing steadily. I performed a 10 mile drive to clear the seafoam out as directed... and the AT oil temp was still flashing. I let the car sit overnight and started it cold... Light is still flashing. Trans fluid is very clean, however, when making tight turns it feels like the car is grabbing hard. When the wheel is straight the car moves freely with very minimal gas given. Now my check engine light is on and I’m getting a P400 code for EGR. Any ideas? Thanks!
  7. Good afternoon USMB friends: Purchased a new Subaru to add to the fleet. Picked up a 2005 Subaru Outback with 115k. Is the LLBean Edition with 3.0 H6 with Automatic Transmission. A needs some odds and ends. The major reason the guy parted with it was the Sport light is flashing causing the transmission to shift at odd points. Only code is C0108. I swapped out the left ABS Wheel Sensor. My questions: 1) How do you reset the TCM codes? Any recommendations on a scanner if I need to purchase a cheap one to do it? 2) Issue seemed to be resolved. Got on it hard to see if problem would occur and hit rev limiter. (Was in auto.) Sport light began to flash. Is this a related issue? (Did not know why I hit rev limiter.) Would having exhaust off cause the issue? Video here: Any help would be appreciated. Tom
  8. My 2007 Outback with 236,000 miles pings. It pings a lot. Anything off idle it makes pinging noise. Cannot hear it with windows up. Tried Seafoam SS14 three times, Sunoco 94, octane booster. First bottle of Seafoam seemed to help but three days later it was back. New knock sensor. New timing belt.
  9. Hello to all, I need some help with my Subaru Legacy Outback 2012. I live in Switzerland in an area where the winters can get rather cold but nothing under -15 Cel. My Outback at around 60K km after a winter where I opened and shut the windows several times has made all 4 windows loose in their rails. Some of the times I tried to open the windows they wouldn't budge so I should have just never touched them in winter if the car wasn't properly warmed up. I took off the front passengers side door panel and peeled back the plastic sheet and I believe it could be the bottom cable of the window regulator that is stretched. When I pull it the window has less play. Does anyone know if I take the motor and window regulator out is there a way to adjust the tension or tighten the cable in some way? Or should I just abandon this? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. I linked a video to this post to show you what I'm talking about. View My Video
  10. Hello all. 98 OBW 250K 2.2. Noticed the Front driver control arm rear bushing is leaking. I can buy the bushing for $23. Looks easy enough to swap. After 20 years on the salt filled roads of PA should I expect it to be rust welded in place and should I just replace the control arm? Can it really just be unbolted with control arm left on car? Link to the part below https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Bushing-Left-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Hydro-FEBEST-SAB-001L-OEM-20201-AC110/222331100045?epid=210174452&hash=item33c3f75b8d%3Ag%3AIdIAAOSwC-taHu~g&_sacat=0&_nkw=sab-001l&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
  11. I am replacing my 98 Legacy Outback 2.5 transmission - 96-TY752V2DCA. This is my first transmission project. Could the community here please provide input on what transmissions will work? I have been searching the forum, but am having trouble nailing this down. My goal is to find the least-used transmission I can afford. It will help if I can look at a broader selection of used transmissions. Thanks! Here is what I think I already understand: phase 1 engines like mine have 2 bolts up top and 2 nuts at the bottom holding the bell housing to the engine block phase 2 engines use 6 bolts and 2 nuts, but the holes match up and using just 4 attachment points is OK; I either need to match my current 4.111 forward drive ratio or install a matching rear differential with the replacement transmission; changes in other gear ratios may impact torque or freeway RPM and are engineered to match the weight and performance of particular cars, but if I'm a relatively boring driver I should not be impacted too much by these changes. my current front differentials use spring pins to secure the front axles. This may not be the case with a replacement; 5MT manual transmissions continue to be installed in Subarus to the present day and will still bolt up to my 20 year old engine. Here is what I'm pretty sure I don't know: what transmissions are compatible with my hydraulic push clutch? Are there other compatibility issues that need to be considered? Thanks for any help you can provide!
  12. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  13. When driving my Subaru outback 2002 the green power light will start flashing uncontrollably and does not stop. It comes on occasionally and goes away after turning the car off and on again. I topped up the transmission fluid after realizing that it was low. I have been experiencing loss of power at times and other times the car runs great seemed to run great after I topped up the fluid and thought that was the issue. Today the light came back on again on the highway. I have also been feeling some clunking while pressing the gas peddle and releasing the gas pedal. Which I don't recall being present when I first purchased the car around 2 months ago, after I topped up the fluid that seemed to help the clunky gas pedal a fair bit but occasionally it still occurs. I've noticed the steering becoming harder at times but most of the time it seems fine. I thought maybe a failing power steering pump or something like that or maybe that's an entirely different issue. Could the power light have something to do with power steering? or does it strictly refer to the transmission? The car has 170,000 km. Not a lot of info online about the blinking power light. Any info appreciated, Thanks.
  14. Howdy, All. I'm hoping to get some guidance/advice on where to go next. I've got a 99 Legacy Outback (30th Anniversary edition) that just flat out died while driving on the interstate. No previous problems or symptoms. Car turns over, just never starts. Note: The check engine light is not on. I've run the diagnostics, and gotten no codes. Here's what I've done: * I believe it's not getting spark (by spraying starting fluid and still nothing, also I can hear the fuel pump switch on and I pulled the fuel line and am getting output). * I put on a new coil pack - no change to the symptoms or status. * I took my ignitor and put it into another car. Other car performed fine. * I took out the crank sensor and the cam sensor to test them. They appear to be functioning fine. * I took out the ECU and put in one that I know to be fine - no change to the symptoms or status. *** Note: I found it weird that the car had the same symptoms regardless of whether an ECU was hooked up or not. Now, where do I go from here? Timing? Also, please know that about every fifty attempts at trying to start it, it sounds like it gets close to catching at the initial key-turn, but then nothing. Please help.
  15. Hi all I've owned my Legacy for a couple of months now and I think it's a great car. Surprisingly capable off road, and despite its tendency to pitch and roll, pretty good on the black stuff too, even at speed. My only two gripes are the lack of power (this issue is further compounded by the stainless exhaust exhaust that came with the car; she's pretty loud, which makes it feel slower still) My other problem is the brakes. When i first got the car they were very spongy and the brakes were dangerously weak. I took the car to the shop and had the brake fluid change. This improved the braking a fair amount, however I am still not satisfied with the feel and efficiency of the brakes. I have fitted a switch to enable/disable the ABS system, and with the ABS disabled, i am still unable to lock the wheels on dry tarmac, and I struggle even on wet tarmac to lock the wheels. Changing the fluid has helped, but i'm far from happy with the brake feel and performance. There's also plenty of meat left on the pads, and the discs appear to be in good condition. What would you guys recommend? Thank you in advance for your reply.
  16. Sorry.. I'm sure this is covered somewhere, but the system won't let you search 'ecm'.. not enough letters... Our 04 Outback, 2.5L, auto, AWD, wagon, 140k ish. Started missing last week.. became worse and worse. Had trouble pulling hills... helped to shift into 3rd or 2nd to spike the rpms.... Became to bad to continue and I parked the car. Now.. it cranks, back fires sometimes out the back, sometimes up thru the throttle body. This afternoon I could not get it to start at all.... AND... the biggest clue I guess... my scan tool would not come on when plugged into the obd port. Just a blank screen at first. Then after bit it flickered on, then off. Once it stayed on long enough to read the codes, but it only showed p0032, which it's shown for years, even after I replaced the 02 sensor. So where do I start here... is the ECM plug and play for a swap in my car... it's an 03. Any likely culprits for something shorting out the ECM? I saw another post similar which turned out to be a corroded air pump sensor? Ideas? Thanks! Mike
  17. My 2006 Subaru Outback expired yesterday--broke down on the side of the road amid a huge spill of oil under the engine block. Have no idea what went wrong...my ex was driving it, I wasn't in the car and she's not the most clinical in terms of observing symptoms just before a car goes to that great garage in the sky. The oil was not overdue to be changed...cold weather, maybe? Anyway, this car has been nothing but a headache in the three years I've owned it so I'm happy to move on. But I'm interested in seeing if I can get value for the parts, which I can then apply to the down payment of another Subaru (a more recent one!)...I've never done this before and am a complete newbie. Is it possible to get value for parts from a car that is no longer operational? What do I need to consider? Thanks, Joe
  18. Ok, car in the discussion: 2007 Outback Wagon 2.5i basic. Meaning, this thing literally has no options. It's essentially a new age Brighton model. Manual, no traction control, lucky to have AC and power windows. Also, 16" wheels, not the standard 17" wheels literally every other trim level got. Anyway, onto the point! I have been researching and reading up on anti-sway bars, new springs, possible lift kits, and adjustable sway bar links, all in the goal of getting my car to stop lifting the inside wheel on hard cornering. A couple times (ok, more than a couple) I've had issues with the front inside tire lift and skitter when planting around a corner at WOT. This is a royal pain, as the onramp onto the freeway from my work is a hairpin with almost no run up. So, if I might pick the brains of my fellow Subaru enthusiasts, would an adjustable rear anti-sway bar with matching adjustable links solve my problem? Or would it be recommended to get new springs and struts with it? And then comes the snowball. Should I lift it while I'm down there replacing all the bits? Because the cost of a lift kit over factory replacement isn't much more, and I'd like the extra height. Nothing insane, but Rallitek's 2" lift sounds nice. Especially with the stiffer springs. So, thoughts, ideas, shoutings of "you moron" or "stop driving your car so hard"? Twitch
  19. Hey y'all. So I own an 06' Impreza Outback Sport, and for like the past year or 2 there has been a constant rattling coming from what seems like the driver's side of the car. It happens when I hit any sort of bump, especially small ones. If I'm on a rough road it sounds like my car is literally falling apart. It sounds like metal on metal CLANKING, that's the only way to describe it. It's not dull, it's loud and metalic. It drives me absolutely insane, and I'm not super good with cars so I don't know what's causing it. A few winters back, a snow drift at the bottom of my street had a channel cut through it by running water. My car, being low, slammed the front end and cracked my front moulding to the point where it was falling off the car. My dav thought of a good fix using sheet metal strap to resecure it which worked well and doesn't really stand out either. but after months of this constant rattle I thought it might be metal on metal contact with the straps and so we redid it. This didn't work. The rattle continued. I recently took my car in to replace all my tires because the last alignment I got was apparently crap and made the insides of my back tires completely bald. They aligned it, and I asked them to try to find the source of this rattle, which they couldn't find. Though I don't think they even really tried. He said something vague about it probably being my front molding because i told him what happened. I highly doubt this is the cause, the sound is a semi-metallic clanking while the moulding is plastic. When I redid the strap with my dad, we noticed the engine cover/splash guard had a tiny bit of play when we pushed it. And conceivably if not secure could rattle. I think a few of the clips are missing and I plan on replacing them, however, I don't know the correct ones to get. This would make sense because I think it started around the time my front end fell apart, and a scrape like that could strip a clip from the undercarriage. But everywhere I look online, it always ends up being something else like a sway bar causing front side clunking, though I don't think any of them have the sound I have. It is not a clunk, it is a CLACK. Either metal on metal or hard plastic on metal. It is going to drive me insane. It's to the point where I don't even wanna roll my windows down because I'll hear it. Even with them up I can sometimes hear it in the cabin. Any thoughts on what it is? Also, I don't know when this started, but when I cut my wheel hard to the right (to pull into a parking spot or something), there is an obvious grinding noise that is most definitely the tire. I checked my wheel well and I don't see anything out of sorts. This doesn't happen when I pull in to the left. It seems to abate when I slow down, so if I'm going like 2-3 MPH I usually don't hear it. But I absolutely hate it, I should be able to cut the wheel with no grinding. It sounds like if you've ever stopped a bike wheel with your shoe as a kid If anyone can help me I would really appreciate it. I have a nice car, I hate it sounding like it's falling apart going over bumpy roads or pulling into a parking spot. Otherwise, I'm to the point where im going to take it to the only Subaru service in the city and pay OUT THE NOSE it get it fixed because i am not leaving until it is. Thank you very much
  20. 2003 Impreza Outback Sport 5 speed I recently bought the car and it’s really fun to drive! Some noise coming from the rear end area above 30mph got me thinking I should look at the rear drive shaft universal joints and carrier bearing. With the drive shaft off there are definitely sticky spots in two of the joints. Napa, O’Reillys, and the local Subaru dealer all told me a very similar tragic tale: The U-joints are not replaceable and have no part number, but I can buy a whole new drive shaft for 500+ dollars. Not to be so easily discouraged, I removed one of the “non-removable” U-joints using a dremel and a steady hand, and took it to Napa and O’Reillys, neither of which could find a match in their stocked parts. Has anyone dealt with this before and happen to know of a U-joint that will fit in the 03 Impreza Outback Sport drive shaft? Thanks for any help!
  21. Help!!! Had a severed wire in trans when pan pulled. Blue wire going solenoid in bottom when pan was pulled. Reconnected the wire connector broke but have rechecked since and is fine, was reading the torque convertor solenoid voltage code, went away when vehicle started. Have EGR code now but trans only drives in 1st and 2nd gear. If it shifts to 3rd which is rare, slips all the way. When lifting car letting it engage 1st or second gear when hitting brakes (all new hardware) torque convertor. Sounds like a bunch of bolts rattling around or a heat shield loose type of sound. Where do I start? Pulling trans now, but need fixed now and have very little money. 96 outback 2.5 4eat. Also gear shifter does not line up with gear selected. Reverse is N, drive is 3 no real click between 1 and 2 on shift lever.
  22. Hello all, My 2002 Outback has developed a very strange misfire recently, and while it probably inst a Subaru specific issue (I don't think at least), I wanted to ask y'all for help since y'all haven't done me wrong yet. The misfire started last week, it wasn't too bad at first, but got progressively worse and worse up to the point where it was feeling down on power, and stuttering to the point where it would almost stall out when moving away from a light. There was and still is no check engine light, it stuttered like crazy moving off from a standstill, it backfired like crazy, and it developed a small tapping noise that sounds like either an injector, something else top end, or even a small exhaust leak when I was moving/accelerating. I started running through the procedures of figuring out what the issue was, and I had narrowed it down to bad gasoline since I had filled up from a station that ran its tanks dry and had their pumps sitting for a few days. I threw a can of Sea Foam into the tank later in the week in the hopes that it would help fix any weirdness in the fuel. It did help, so over this past weekend I refilled from about half a tank and drove 300 miles round trip to my hometown and back to run out the tank and squeeze out any junk in there. While I was in town I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side as well as the injectors. They were acceptably clean upon visual inspection, so that sealed the deal for me that it was a fuel issue (I didnt get a chance to flow test the injectors since I didn't really have the time/money to see if they were up to snuff however.) I also checked the plug wires and there were no breaks in them, they haven't been shorting on anything, and the contacts looked clean. When I returned back to town I refilled from very nearly empty, and drove it around town a bit. It was a night and day improvement, it didn't stutter anywhere nearly as bad, (the coupled of times it did stutter it was quickly killed off by adding more gas when moving away from a light), and even the tapping noise had either gone away or had quieted down to the point that I couldn't hear it. So, I thought everything was fine and dandy, I went ahead and poured another can of Sea Foam into the tank to stabilize any bad fuel left in the system, and called it a day. However this morning when I got in to drive to class, the stutter and tap had returned in force. What was interesting about this round is that it subsided quite a bit once the motor got some heat in it, and the noise was either very quiet or non existent. There still isn't a check engine light either. I'm pretty thoroughly stumped by this. I'm good with a wrench, but I cant diagnose to save my life so any help will be greatly appreciated. Just a little background on the car to make things easier (hopefully), it has 177k miles on it, it has had head gaskets done in the last 20k miles, O2 sensors replaced in the last 5k miles, and I just put a new catalytic converter on it less than 1K miles ago. It's also had the fuel filter replaced at some point, although I have no idea when. This thing has seen a pretty hard life, so honestly anything on this thing breaking wouldnt surprise me at this point. Thank you all in advance, -A
  23. Do I have to pull the door panel off, or can the switch cluster be prised out of the armrest without buggering everything up? One cracked window switch button, hopefully can be 'glued' so I don't have to replace entire cluster.
  24. Four days ago I returned to my 98 Subaru, it having been parked in Yosemite Valley for sixteen hot days. Not only did the car start without complaint, but I used the front wipers to wash away a lot of dust. No problems. Two days ago, while hanging with a few friends, I gave the car to my friend and her car mechanic brother to not only drive to the market, but also to get his impressions on the overall health of the car. He reported back that it ran well, sounded good, etc . . . Last night I went to use the wipers and they didn't work. Back one works fine, fronts, not---I can flick them on and hear the motor running, but there's no action from the wipers, which are bolted down snug. So who broke my wipers? was it my friend, or maybe her nervous mechanic brother, or maybe--as things do just break---the wiper mechanism just decided to die? Should I no longer allow mechanics who I am not already paying, sit in my car? I stopped wondering if I could fix it when told to remove or check under the "cowling" which took me a few trips through the index to figure what that is . . . . Could I have blown a fuse? unhooked a wire? flipped a switch? Thanks for any insights.
  25. ayykimber

    2002 Subaru Legacy Outback

    Hello All, I finally am getting around to telling the story of my daily, and laying out my plans for what I want to do with it in the future once daily duty is over. I am currently the proud owner of a 2002 Subaru (obviously) Legacy Outback Wagon Rocky Mountain Special Edition (I don't know what "Rocky Mountain Special Edition" is either don't worry). It has the base EJ251, and while it's a factory 5-speed car, it now has the 5-speed from a Bugeye WRX added by a long past owner. I'm not entirely sure what the rear diff is, one would assume it is WRX as well, but I have yet to check. As far as other mods go it's pretty tame for now, it has a polyurethane transmission mount that was put in when the original unit wore out, and my stepfather for what ever reason put on an exhaust from a Blobeye STi that has a sloppily welded cannon suck on the end and a dying catalytic converter. Everything else that has been done has been general maintenance, my stepfather did the head gaskets, timing belts and water pump when we first got it, I did the O2 sensors last year, and some more thorough suspension work the year before that (replaced both ball joints, and a new passenger side control arm and bushes). Everything else is fairly stock, stock wheels with Subaru recommended BFG's, stock interior with a new head unit, a body with some rust in the rockers and passenger side rear quarter, and its fair share of dents and scratches from daily driver duty for the last 15 years or so. This car was my family's gateway into the world of Subaru, my parents bought this car 5-6 years ago from a transmission shop for $1.5k, put a new clutch in it and tires on it. At the time they were going through bankruptcy, and needed something to drive while my stepfather was going back to work. It served as a daily for my stepfather for 4 years until they got back on their feet, and were able to trade up to something newer. He got himself a widebody Meaneye WRX hatch, and my mother got herself a later model Outback 3.6R. Rather than letting this car be wholesaled by a dealer, they kept it around and sent me off with it to college, which is what it has been doing for the last 2-3 years. It's currently sitting at 174k and change miles, and I absolutely have no intention of getting rid of it. My plans for it right now consist of making it the best daily it can be until I'm finished with school in another 2-3 year's time. Once I have the job and the time to do it, I very much intend to modify it. I'm leaning towards a rallycross/WRC offroader build with either a frankenengine, or just going the more expensive route and building an EJ257 from the ground up. Either way I will be bolting a 6 speeder to it, and uprating the suspension for high speed use and offroad duty. Expect more posts on this thread with updates, and posts from me asking questions as I'm still somewhat new to the intricacies of these cars. The last car I dailyed (and still have) was a '92 GMC so I have a ways to go and lots to learn before Im a Subaru pro. I hope y'all enjoyed my ramblings and this story. I look forward to posting more and reading more about these cars. -Ayy
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