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Found 199 results

  1. I have recently purchased a 1996 Subaru Outback with a 2.2 liter EJ 22 engine that I know very little about. so far I have replaced the clutch and the axles and just in time to blow a head gasket . So in lue of just getting another car i have decided to turn this car into an ultimate adventure wagon, ntm b4 I blew the head gasket it had quite a few problems with lack of power and failing gages . at this point i am ready to put a new engine in the gal and do a complete overhaul . being that i am not a mechanic and i have a limitted budget, I have a lot of questions. first of these is; what can i do to achieve 250 hpaw with a 2.2 l engine ?
  2. Can someone please tell me which knuckle will interchange with my legacy outback wagon I have a 2000 legacy wagon but they don't look the same or at least the brakes and stuff are different. Also the 2000 is non abs and the 99 lobw has abs.
  3. 2003 Outback H6 Taking a little road trip to the hill country next month. I rotated tires today. Took the opportunity to inspect around and try to get a little lube in the sway bar bushings - hoping to help an occasional 'groaning sound' from the rear when maneuvering/bouncing the car. some good news, some bad; tires evenly worn Centric PQ ceramic brake pads really last! So do OEM rotors. rear diff mount bushings look good, rear axle boots and everything back there actually looks OK to good. One or 2 suspension arm bushings look 'off-center/worn'. One of those could be source of noise I guess? No movement on rear wheel bearing up-down - side to side rocking test. No oil on top of (replaced, not original) struts. some wetness on the charcoal box ? - and, now I think, there may have been some wetness under the car from around there - will investigate further if it smells like fuel - haven't noticed that and it seems it would be quite strong in the garage if even a little gas were there??? Both sides of the front have about 2-3mm of 3-9 o'clock movement at the wheels(tires on) - appears to be inner tire rods. No apparent problems felt inside or tire wear but, I will put that on the 'to-do' list for this fall or more likely next spring. One front bearing test moved about 1mm up-down. I may let that wait...can't decide. If I diy that, everything I've read leads me to believe I should tackle it one of 2 ways - on the car with some 'hub tamer' type of device, or take the knuckle to a dealer/shop. thoughts? Still looks like the oil cooler adapter is weeping, not enough to spot the ground yet....I have read mixed reviews on success at swapping that seal so, I'm gonna wait. a front outer axle boot is ripped so, need to deal with that. I THINK I have an OEM spare axle, if not, I'll try to find a used one, reboot the inner and swap. No clicking yet so, I'm gonna let it wait too.Since it's the outer, an interesting experiment might be to try knocking the Rzeppa joint off and installing a new aftermarket one on my OEM axle...might do that and hold the axle in reserve for the other side or ??? for the money/hassle, used entire half-axle is still probably better. glanced at resevoirs and checked the oil. likely do that again before the trip.
  4. So the 401 is my rear differential makes a whining noise when brought up to speeds around 20 mph. it also likes to "clunk" at times. The whine I understand would logically come from bad diff fluid, or lack thereof. would pulling a differential off another legacy outback of the same year be a route to go if I don't want to risk draining and replacing fluid to find out its trashed? I would love to hear some opinions!!
  5. So I have a 1996 Legacy Outback, and it definitely needs to go lower. I have not seen a specific set of coilovers or springs made, probably because the rear load is different. any points in the right direction would be awesome!
  6. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  7. I'm looking to upgrade my 2007 Outback with a little stiffer suspension since I often haul a lot of equipment or tools in the back of the car. I believe I read somewhere a long time ago that one could install the struts and springs from a 2000 - 2004 Outback into these newer Subaru's to beef up the suspension a little. Does anyone have info on this conversion or anything that would help me get a stronger set-up on the rear suspension?
  8. My outback is saying misfire on cylinder 3 & 4. Shop says try unplugging MAF sensor while acting up, and that will tell me if that's the problem. Can't find it for the life of me. They sell MAF sensors for this year, but I see in various forums that there is no MAF sensor in this model. Please help. I've found the MAP sensor. I also replaced plugs and wires. Going to replace coil pack next.
  9. My 2003 H6 Outback transmission seems to work very well and shifting is very smooth but I have one complaint. When attempting to accelerate quickly it is very slow to respond and downshift. When starting from a full stop it's fine, but if I'm moving forward at much speed it seems to want to stay in high gear. If I floor it sometimes it's 2-3 seconds before it will downshift. This has caused me some embarrassment a few time when trying to pull in to traffic and merge and the car just does not go. There is no floor mat obstruction. I've seen a few threads where this is complained about but no real solutions mentioned. Ideally I would have the performance button to resolve this but this car is not equipped with that and it's apparently not feasible to add. My daughters Impreza 2.5i has very impressive throttle response even with the smaller engine. (electronic throttle) I've seen mention of removing the battery to get some algorithm to re-learn something. It that really a thing? Any suggestions or is this just the way it is? Thanks.
  10. On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer.
  11. Frustration! What’s the deal w/ the socket size for the 2018 Outback drain plug? 14mm is too big. 13mm is too small. Has Subaru decided to make us buy a special tool for changing our own oil??? Thanks.
  12. I'm new here and new to Subarus. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5 automatic AWD, and I think it needs a new transmission. The model number on the bell housing is tz102z2cba-dt. I've found a japanese import transmission that I'm told will work, model number tz102z1caa-dg apparently from a 1998 Outback. Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm looking for a direct replacement, if possible, and I'm having some difficulty finding these model numbers online to really compare them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Please help! I just bought a 99 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 2.5l H4 motor and automatic trans. Car has 46k miles. I used Seafoam through a vacuum line to clean the engine because I was told the car had been sitting for a while. I put 1/3 of the can in at idle and then shut the car off to let the product soak in for 30 min. Upon starting the vehicle back up I noticed the AT oil temp flashing steadily. I performed a 10 mile drive to clear the seafoam out as directed... and the AT oil temp was still flashing. I let the car sit overnight and started it cold... Light is still flashing. Trans fluid is very clean, however, when making tight turns it feels like the car is grabbing hard. When the wheel is straight the car moves freely with very minimal gas given. Now my check engine light is on and I’m getting a P400 code for EGR. Any ideas? Thanks!
  14. Good afternoon USMB friends: Purchased a new Subaru to add to the fleet. Picked up a 2005 Subaru Outback with 115k. Is the LLBean Edition with 3.0 H6 with Automatic Transmission. A needs some odds and ends. The major reason the guy parted with it was the Sport light is flashing causing the transmission to shift at odd points. Only code is C0108. I swapped out the left ABS Wheel Sensor. My questions: 1) How do you reset the TCM codes? Any recommendations on a scanner if I need to purchase a cheap one to do it? 2) Issue seemed to be resolved. Got on it hard to see if problem would occur and hit rev limiter. (Was in auto.) Sport light began to flash. Is this a related issue? (Did not know why I hit rev limiter.) Would having exhaust off cause the issue? Video here: Any help would be appreciated. Tom
  15. My 2007 Outback with 236,000 miles pings. It pings a lot. Anything off idle it makes pinging noise. Cannot hear it with windows up. Tried Seafoam SS14 three times, Sunoco 94, octane booster. First bottle of Seafoam seemed to help but three days later it was back. New knock sensor. New timing belt.
  16. Hello to all, I need some help with my Subaru Legacy Outback 2012. I live in Switzerland in an area where the winters can get rather cold but nothing under -15 Cel. My Outback at around 60K km after a winter where I opened and shut the windows several times has made all 4 windows loose in their rails. Some of the times I tried to open the windows they wouldn't budge so I should have just never touched them in winter if the car wasn't properly warmed up. I took off the front passengers side door panel and peeled back the plastic sheet and I believe it could be the bottom cable of the window regulator that is stretched. When I pull it the window has less play. Does anyone know if I take the motor and window regulator out is there a way to adjust the tension or tighten the cable in some way? Or should I just abandon this? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. I linked a video to this post to show you what I'm talking about. View My Video
  17. Hello all. 98 OBW 250K 2.2. Noticed the Front driver control arm rear bushing is leaking. I can buy the bushing for $23. Looks easy enough to swap. After 20 years on the salt filled roads of PA should I expect it to be rust welded in place and should I just replace the control arm? Can it really just be unbolted with control arm left on car? Link to the part below https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Bushing-Left-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Hydro-FEBEST-SAB-001L-OEM-20201-AC110/222331100045?epid=210174452&hash=item33c3f75b8d%3Ag%3AIdIAAOSwC-taHu~g&_sacat=0&_nkw=sab-001l&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
  18. I am replacing my 98 Legacy Outback 2.5 transmission - 96-TY752V2DCA. This is my first transmission project. Could the community here please provide input on what transmissions will work? I have been searching the forum, but am having trouble nailing this down. My goal is to find the least-used transmission I can afford. It will help if I can look at a broader selection of used transmissions. Thanks! Here is what I think I already understand: phase 1 engines like mine have 2 bolts up top and 2 nuts at the bottom holding the bell housing to the engine block phase 2 engines use 6 bolts and 2 nuts, but the holes match up and using just 4 attachment points is OK; I either need to match my current 4.111 forward drive ratio or install a matching rear differential with the replacement transmission; changes in other gear ratios may impact torque or freeway RPM and are engineered to match the weight and performance of particular cars, but if I'm a relatively boring driver I should not be impacted too much by these changes. my current front differentials use spring pins to secure the front axles. This may not be the case with a replacement; 5MT manual transmissions continue to be installed in Subarus to the present day and will still bolt up to my 20 year old engine. Here is what I'm pretty sure I don't know: what transmissions are compatible with my hydraulic push clutch? Are there other compatibility issues that need to be considered? Thanks for any help you can provide!
  19. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  20. When driving my Subaru outback 2002 the green power light will start flashing uncontrollably and does not stop. It comes on occasionally and goes away after turning the car off and on again. I topped up the transmission fluid after realizing that it was low. I have been experiencing loss of power at times and other times the car runs great seemed to run great after I topped up the fluid and thought that was the issue. Today the light came back on again on the highway. I have also been feeling some clunking while pressing the gas peddle and releasing the gas pedal. Which I don't recall being present when I first purchased the car around 2 months ago, after I topped up the fluid that seemed to help the clunky gas pedal a fair bit but occasionally it still occurs. I've noticed the steering becoming harder at times but most of the time it seems fine. I thought maybe a failing power steering pump or something like that or maybe that's an entirely different issue. Could the power light have something to do with power steering? or does it strictly refer to the transmission? The car has 170,000 km. Not a lot of info online about the blinking power light. Any info appreciated, Thanks.
  21. Howdy, All. I'm hoping to get some guidance/advice on where to go next. I've got a 99 Legacy Outback (30th Anniversary edition) that just flat out died while driving on the interstate. No previous problems or symptoms. Car turns over, just never starts. Note: The check engine light is not on. I've run the diagnostics, and gotten no codes. Here's what I've done: * I believe it's not getting spark (by spraying starting fluid and still nothing, also I can hear the fuel pump switch on and I pulled the fuel line and am getting output). * I put on a new coil pack - no change to the symptoms or status. * I took my ignitor and put it into another car. Other car performed fine. * I took out the crank sensor and the cam sensor to test them. They appear to be functioning fine. * I took out the ECU and put in one that I know to be fine - no change to the symptoms or status. *** Note: I found it weird that the car had the same symptoms regardless of whether an ECU was hooked up or not. Now, where do I go from here? Timing? Also, please know that about every fifty attempts at trying to start it, it sounds like it gets close to catching at the initial key-turn, but then nothing. Please help.
  22. Hi all I've owned my Legacy for a couple of months now and I think it's a great car. Surprisingly capable off road, and despite its tendency to pitch and roll, pretty good on the black stuff too, even at speed. My only two gripes are the lack of power (this issue is further compounded by the stainless exhaust exhaust that came with the car; she's pretty loud, which makes it feel slower still) My other problem is the brakes. When i first got the car they were very spongy and the brakes were dangerously weak. I took the car to the shop and had the brake fluid change. This improved the braking a fair amount, however I am still not satisfied with the feel and efficiency of the brakes. I have fitted a switch to enable/disable the ABS system, and with the ABS disabled, i am still unable to lock the wheels on dry tarmac, and I struggle even on wet tarmac to lock the wheels. Changing the fluid has helped, but i'm far from happy with the brake feel and performance. There's also plenty of meat left on the pads, and the discs appear to be in good condition. What would you guys recommend? Thank you in advance for your reply.
  23. Sorry.. I'm sure this is covered somewhere, but the system won't let you search 'ecm'.. not enough letters... Our 04 Outback, 2.5L, auto, AWD, wagon, 140k ish. Started missing last week.. became worse and worse. Had trouble pulling hills... helped to shift into 3rd or 2nd to spike the rpms.... Became to bad to continue and I parked the car. Now.. it cranks, back fires sometimes out the back, sometimes up thru the throttle body. This afternoon I could not get it to start at all.... AND... the biggest clue I guess... my scan tool would not come on when plugged into the obd port. Just a blank screen at first. Then after bit it flickered on, then off. Once it stayed on long enough to read the codes, but it only showed p0032, which it's shown for years, even after I replaced the 02 sensor. So where do I start here... is the ECM plug and play for a swap in my car... it's an 03. Any likely culprits for something shorting out the ECM? I saw another post similar which turned out to be a corroded air pump sensor? Ideas? Thanks! Mike
  24. My 2006 Subaru Outback expired yesterday--broke down on the side of the road amid a huge spill of oil under the engine block. Have no idea what went wrong...my ex was driving it, I wasn't in the car and she's not the most clinical in terms of observing symptoms just before a car goes to that great garage in the sky. The oil was not overdue to be changed...cold weather, maybe? Anyway, this car has been nothing but a headache in the three years I've owned it so I'm happy to move on. But I'm interested in seeing if I can get value for the parts, which I can then apply to the down payment of another Subaru (a more recent one!)...I've never done this before and am a complete newbie. Is it possible to get value for parts from a car that is no longer operational? What do I need to consider? Thanks, Joe
  25. Ok, car in the discussion: 2007 Outback Wagon 2.5i basic. Meaning, this thing literally has no options. It's essentially a new age Brighton model. Manual, no traction control, lucky to have AC and power windows. Also, 16" wheels, not the standard 17" wheels literally every other trim level got. Anyway, onto the point! I have been researching and reading up on anti-sway bars, new springs, possible lift kits, and adjustable sway bar links, all in the goal of getting my car to stop lifting the inside wheel on hard cornering. A couple times (ok, more than a couple) I've had issues with the front inside tire lift and skitter when planting around a corner at WOT. This is a royal pain, as the onramp onto the freeway from my work is a hairpin with almost no run up. So, if I might pick the brains of my fellow Subaru enthusiasts, would an adjustable rear anti-sway bar with matching adjustable links solve my problem? Or would it be recommended to get new springs and struts with it? And then comes the snowball. Should I lift it while I'm down there replacing all the bits? Because the cost of a lift kit over factory replacement isn't much more, and I'd like the extra height. Nothing insane, but Rallitek's 2" lift sounds nice. Especially with the stiffer springs. So, thoughts, ideas, shoutings of "you moron" or "stop driving your car so hard"? Twitch
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