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Found 164 results

  1. Hey guys, I got my 85 FrankinSoob GL with EJ22 swap. I have a few questions about some future build plans. Rather than have a bunch of posts I thought I'd only compile one. So here it goes A) Has anyone played with the gearing in the stock EA 5speed with the dual range? I really like this transmission, but it doesn't quite have the gearing for today's highway speeds. I want to lengthen the ratios for 4 and 5 to where I can cruise at 80 comfortably. Or is it just best to do the trans swap? B)Does anyone know the weight difference between the EJ and EA flywheels? I want to lighten the EA flywheel a little bit to get higher rpm without harming the engine. But also not enough to loose a substantial amount of low end torque. I read a build thread that mentioned using the XT flywheel, but finding one of those in my area might be a little hard. C) Lifting? I want to do a small suspension lift but preferably don't want to lift the body. What's the max height you can go before the CVs are at to much of an angle to cause damage? I found an old GL at the local UPull that looked to have a 4in suspension lift with a 3in body lift. But that's a little more than I desire. Thanks for reading!!! If you have answers please I would love to hear. Cheers.
  2. Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike
  3. I was considering forking out $$$ once again for a group N (STI) transmission mount for the Legacy, as I bought one a few years ago and fitted it to the Forester with very happy results. Then I found the remains of the windshield adhesive sealant I had recently used to toughen up the Vivio’s failing engine mounts, and I then dug out the Forester’s old soft transmission mount, still in one piece... ....So I am experimenting with... One original Forester SF trans mount, Two unused hard rubber bushes from a Fiat Panda’s trailing arms, 1/2 tube of windshield adhesive/sealant. - -Thoroughly clean and degrease the mount, and force in the bushes (bench vise did the trick): -Tape up one side to prevent seepage: -Squeeze in sealant from the open side as thoroughly as possible: -Do what you will with the excess, and leave to cure for a few weeks: When it is cured I shall remove the Legacy’s existing mount and compare them both in the hand, before fitting and coming back with an update. I am expecting a firmer mount, though not as stiff as the real STI component.
  4. So My 04 legacy jumped a gear pulling into a parking lot threw a p0866 engine code defined as a TCM Communication Circuit High. Also the flashing AT oil temp light. Is there a diagram I can see to find out if I’m able to access the issue or is it more internal and I’ll have to pull the trans for repair
  5. I've got a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback with a 5-speed manual transmission and I've been driving it for almost ten years. Just lately I've started having problems hitting the correct gears when I shift. I try to put it in 1st and I hit 3rd. I try to get into 2nd and I hit 4th. Sometimes I try to go into 3rd and I hit 5th. And there have even been several times when I've been shifting into 4th and I've hit reverse (which is really disturbing). It seems that all the proper gear positions are drifting to the left, so I'm now hitting one gear to the right of where I should be. The problem only started about a month ago, and it's definitely getting worse every day. Any idea what could be causing this? Is there some bolt that holds the transmission in place and could be coming loose? Or maybe the rods connected to the gear shift are starting to bend? Everything else is working and the car is driving fine, but changing gears is just going to be impossible if this keeps getting worse.
  6. Hello everyone. I’m new to the site . Just bought my first Subaru. A 1979 Brat I am attempting to resurrect. Anyways I picked up this transmission for $50. I was told it was a 5 Speed Subaru dual range. Can’t find any identitying marks on it. I need help, any ideas?
  7. Im looking to purchase a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i, however it, just like all automatic subarus before its time, is stuck with one of the worst automatic transmissions in the history of the planet. I also own a 1999 Nissan Altima, and it to has a 4-speed automatic. My question is, is it possible to swap in a 5speed transmission, like one found in the later legacy models, or is this a no go. I would like for the swap to be somewhat painless, obviously it will take some elbow grease and a few moments of pure frustration, but is it possible? Ive considered a manual, however, i just cant be bothered. I do a lot of highway driving and id love to just throw the sucker in drive and be on my merry way.
  8. I'm new here and new to Subarus. I have a 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5 automatic AWD, and I think it needs a new transmission. The model number on the bell housing is tz102z2cba-dt. I've found a japanese import transmission that I'm told will work, model number tz102z1caa-dg apparently from a 1998 Outback. Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm looking for a direct replacement, if possible, and I'm having some difficulty finding these model numbers online to really compare them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. I have a 2010 Outback with 145,000 miles. In October the throw-out bearing failed requiring a clutch repair. a week following the repair the transmission would pop out of reverse. My mechanic determined that a replacement transmission was needed. Weighing the cost options (new, used, rebuild) I went with a used transmission (with a warrantee). The replacement transmission worked for a week then developed the same problem. I am on my 2nd replacement transmission and now after 2 months it pops out of reverse. What is causing this or is being overlooked here?
  10. I have a 2010 Subaru Outback 2.4L with about 144,000 miles. I was doing an oil change on Monday and saw some fluid leaking. The area I've circled had fluid on it with it 'pooling' on the bolt near the middle of the circle. It appears to be coming from the front differential but I am by no means an expert and was wondering if I was right. I'm only guessing this because of the 'Diff Oil' label to the right. Last winter as part of some scheduled maintenance I had a Subaru dealer replace the differential oil since it was -40c out and a couple of the things were beyond my comfort level. Over the summer the Subaru is our second vehicle so it didn't get driven much but I started noticing some small spots of fluid on the driveway. I wasn't too worried and was going to check next time I was under there as there wasn't any major spots and I couldn't see anything from the top. If it is the a differential seal/gasket, it seems like something that needs replacing before it destroys itself from what I'm read but I wanted to get some thoughts before running ahead and doing something. Thanks!
  11. I have a 2004 Impreza outback sport. I need to find a replacement for a manual transmission. I'm having no luck at finding one, so I'm looking at other Subarus. Locally I've found a 2003 legacy, a 2003 Impreza, a 2002 Forrester, and a 2004 Forrester. All with manual transmissions. Are any of these compatible with my car? Or is there a resource I can turn to to find out?
  12. Hi all, I am about to throw my SOHC 2.5/DOHC 2.5 frankenmotor into a '98 outback in pretty great (cosmetic) condition.... but it is 200,000 miles. I have gone through about 4 different 5mts in the past 6 years... All were cheap, but all were high mileage. I'm planning on purchasing a transmission that came out of the '05 Legacy GT wagons... Transmission code: TY757VBAAB... The gear ratios look to be a dream! With my wheel/tire choice, I can be at 3000 rpm and going 75 mph down the interstate and thus keep very good fuel economy. My problem though... In the picture of the transmission that I'm looking at, there doesn't appear to be a speedo-sensor installed... There is a plug circled in orange... Anybody have a guess if there will be a speedo gear in there when I take the plug out? If not, I'm assuming that I'd have to split the case halves to install? Just a matter of spending the time to do so? Unfortunately I'm not in a position to get this information as the transmission is coming from an online auction source. Supposed to be at about 50,000 miles. I guess I could go without a speedometer, and just memorize the tachometer-to-gear-ratio-to-wheel-size speeds off of a chart... I figure it'll last much longer behind a NA motor versus turbo... http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Thanks all, Greg
  13. IЯBaboon

    SVX Manual Swap Question

    I have a JDM SVX I imported from Japan that came with a dead transmission. So I am wanting to do perform a manual swap on it. Mostly because I don't have room between the engine harness and brake booster, and in the name of keeping everything as simple as possible I am wanting to go with a cable clutch setup. My question is since I am looking for a parts car so I can have all the parts I need in one place, and I am wanting to know which model Subaru's came with a cable clutch so I can narrow down my search to the cars I actually need.
  14. Many posts in this forum re what ATF works in Subaru trannys; and other makes. Subaru says for my 2008 Outback, must be their ATF-HP. Please search site below for possible replacement with even better performance: https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf click on PI SHEET. Subaru ATF-HP and HP appear as backward compatible. I read thru the Valvoline specs, and it exceeds all those listed in the PI sheet in resistance to breakdown at high temperatures = life span. I first encountered the problem with a TOYOTA TUNDRA 2011 ATF change. Toyota changed OEM specs on approved xmission fluid to avoid penalties from Euro 'green' laws, extending the recommended miles before ATF replacement necessary to 100,000 miles. This is a fantasy. But to enforce the 'saving' of hydrocarbon usage, Toyota also took away the tranny drain tube/plug and replaced it with a stand-pipe in the sump that retains a high level of ATF even when the 'drain' (hahaha) plug is opened. You need special equipment to fully drain/replace the ATF. When I drained / replaced with Valvoline at 80,000 miles, the ATF was black as coal, and up-shifts were hanging and shuddering. At 100,000 suspect xmission would have been toast. Replacement with Valvoline restored smooth shifts, and added 2 MPG to efficiency. (Well, improved from 12 mpg to 14: but if ya gotta pull a 6000 lb trailer, you're gonna need a V8, right?)
  15. The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
  16. Our 2007 Legacy Station Wagon (owned since january 2012) has recently started to give us intermittent rumbling sound/loss of power for 2-4 seconds only intermittently. It is not loud. On a 15 minute drive it may occur 2-6 times. It feels like maybe transmission/axle/all wheel drive related. (Computer or sensor related ?). Our mechanic, who we have had take excellent care of 9 different extended family vehicles over the last 15 years, is somewhat baffled but has experienced this issue himself on test drives. He just did replace the transmission oil in an attempt to resolve the problem and also looking for bits of metal at that time, but not found no bits of metal and said that the result often indicates that there is probably on transmission issue. We recently experienced a failing transmission on a 1996 Montero and the issue with the Legacy does not feel similar. The local Subaru dealer is a train wreck and dishonest. Our mechanic says he is getting no error codes (don't know if it is possible to check for diagnostic error codes for a long period of time during a test drive). I read one post on another site that seemed to be describing a similar issue and that 5 trips to the Subaru dealer yielded no error codes or resolution but that when the issue worsened, they happened to be near a Firestone dealer who immediately diagnosed a bad sensor, and they replaced the sensor and resolved the issue. Any ideas ? Thanks- Doug
  17. Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
  18. I've had a few '95 Legacies with the EJ22 over the years. One made it to 386,000 (MT), another died of a freak headgasket problem a little after 200k, and my current one (AT) is at 387,500 or so. The transmission was replaced with a used one about 200,000 miles ago. The clutch pack started having problems a couple of years ago, so I've been running it in FWD for a while. The shifting has been getting wonky over the last year or so - i.e. sometimes won't come out of first gear, and the speedometer doesn't move, then suddenly will shift just fine. The problem is that I've been telling my wife for years that these engines never die, can go for 500,000 miles . . . I think it will be time to move on when the transmission finally goes. She says we should just put another one in. Given the age/mileage of salvage yard transmissions at this point, plus the cost and overall age of the vehicle, I think it will be time to retire the car. As much as I'd love to keep it going forever, I feel like it's reached the age where it's time to enact a DNR for anything major. What do y'all think?
  19. I have a 88(I think) dual range transmission with a blown ring and pinion. Instead of buying a new ring and pinion from subaru for $500 I picked up a gently used 93 manual push button transmission($100) with the intention of taking the ring and pinion out of that. The transmission is perfectly fine except that I would be better off with the dual range on my rig. So my question is, would it be possible to just swap the transfer case on the end of the transmission? They seem to be the same size, and it would make the project much easier. Thanks for the help. And just for kicks I have an 88 Gl-10 4" lift ej22 swap
  20. I have a weberized 85 Brat with the 3 speed auto transmission. After a couple months I finally got it running. It idles kinda rough and i have to keep the timing fully retarded (literally) or it will stall out, but it does idle. I believe that there are no vacuum leaks so it shouldn't be that. My main problem is that it idles at about 1K and revs fine, but as soon as its put in gear the RPMs drop to about 500 and it splutters and shakes. If i give it any gas at all while its in drive or reverse it dies, no matter what i do. It seems as soon as a load is being put on the tranny/engine it dies. Does anybody know what would be causing this?
  21. Trying to tighten up my shifter on four speed 85 BRAT. Wear seems to be shifter attaches to rod connected to transmission. I see a roll pin connecting to the rod. number 15 in image has the connection. Any suggestions for tightening this connection?
  22. Hi All, My 2014 Subaru Forester has been hesitating when cold and at low speeds and now hesitates, shakes and sounds like I am driving over a washboard under a variety of different conditions, especially at high speeds or when engine is under strain. I have read about this problem for other owners and am surprised I cannot find anything on this topic on this forum. I need help! I have enjoyed this car up until now, but now I am really worried! All comments and thoughts will be appreciated! Rob
  23. Hi, The transmission in my 2008 Outback 2.5i LTD is completely shot. (It failed as soon as I arrived here in Redondo Beach, CA after driving from New Orleans with my two kids!) . My trusted mechanic is back in New Orleans. I am told that this transmission is hard to find, and that it will run about $3,300 to rebuild it, but that he doesn't recommend doing that. He recommends getting a new transmission from the dealer and having him install it for a total of about $4,200. Does this make sense? First of all it seems really expensive, and I am also not sure how much longer I should expect to be able to drive this car, although I have loved it so far.
  24. I have a 1991 Subaru Legacy L with the standard 4-speed automatic transmission with lock up. Duty solenoid B within the transmission is responsible for the lock up however it's been failing or not working at all for a little while and when it does work it is weak. The transmission could probably use a good flush but I don't know if that would solve my problem at all Maybe the weak problem but I'm not sure if there is a short or something causing the transmission to not lock up or if Duty solenoid B is just dead.
  25. 1991 Subary Legacy - I used to ski and thought the Legacy AWD would be a real boon to driving up. It acted odd > When going up hill under power (freeway or near freeway speed) the front wheels would lose traction, spin way up (verified by the tach), and SUDDENLY the AWD would kick in. Traction would be good, then just as suddenly the AWD would dis-engage and the process would repeat itself. I thought it was poor tires, never having had AWD before. I was not sure HOW AWD should act. My previous ride was a 4WD Toyota Tercel that you engaged with a lever. Personally I thought it was great and worked quite well but was obviously different. Quit skiing so the car seldom gets in snow anymore, but occasionally in our driveway on a slope one tire will end up on wet grass. When loaded (I scuba dive now so the load is not trivial), when trying to take off it will spin > then suddenly engage. Engagement is not smooth, more like revving up the car a middling amount and putting the automatic transmission in gear. Now I have GOOD tires and fairly new all around. Recently I took it in for it's first CV joint replacement (160K). The shop (Subaru only) indicated the transmission had a problem with the rear not engaging correctly. Well, how about that. They also said that otherwise it was fine and probably not worth the trouble of tranny repair. I agreed since the AWD is about 95+% not necessary. If I didn't know there was a problem, there is almost nothing other than this odd and occasional behavior to indicate it. Then talking with a dive buddy that runs a Transmission shop indicted it could be electrical with the throttle sensor providing input to gradually engage the AWD. I did some searching and find there appears to be a bunch of such sensors. Anyone know where to start on this issue and what to check and where? I don't have anything to check computer codes nor do I have any CEL issues. Note-While researching I found out about the FWD fuse. I JUST put it in and will be taking it on a 100 mile test trip this afternoon. A trip around the block indicated normal driving behavior and a new FWD red icon on the dash. Appreciate any help. Fritz