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Tims Toy 500

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About Tims Toy 500

  • Birthday 04/12/1970

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Phoenix Arizona
  • Vehicles
    1980 DL

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  1. Sitting at the computer, I'm at the point where I'm about to pull the trigger on purchasing my lift kit. -=BUT=- The SJR website says their 4-in kit "fits EA71, Gen1 1978-80 all body styles"... I thought my 1980 wagon (with the 1600) still fell into the EA81 category? (Plus, the SJR kit for EA81 is about 50 bucks cheaper.) I also have a 1981 parts car with the 1800 motor I plan swapping into my 1980 wagon when I do the lift. Thinking that would be easiest when everything is already apart. I've been told I'll need to use the crossmember from the 1981 to make the swap. Is there any truth to that? Can somebody set me straight on which car I have and will a crossmember swap make any difference as to which lift kit I buy? - I appreciate any insight/experience you folks might have.
  2. Thanks for the tips on how to identify the transmission! That's a huge help for this novice. If its not already out of the car (like the boat anchor I just bought) and I need to pull it - Is there a way to identify what trans it has before climbing under the car to see? Fender badge, Trim level, etc?
  3. Well carp. I got overzealous and apparently bought me a new door stop. I might try to tear it apart anyway, just to see what all the fuss is about. I appreciate all the input! The hunt continues... Did all the 4WD 1985–1994 come with dual range?
  4. Is there such thing as a tag or casting number to help me identify what transmission this is (see pic)? I'm not sure what car came out of, it's a wrecking yard special. I was told it "should" fit any early '80s Subaru. My intention is to put it in my 1980 DL wagon. Also - I'm aware it won't bolt up to the 1600. I have a '81 wagon parts car with the 1800 I plan on swapping in. However, it's only a two-wheel drive. Hence the wrecking yard special. Thanks in advance for your help!
  5. I'll admit, I'm old school. Gimme a Carburetor any day. But I need to keep up. I bought a scantool and as mentioned, it came up with nothing... Google says: "When a car's Engine Control Unit (ECU) senses a problem or malfunctioning within the vehicle, it triggers an ECU fault code that will turn on the check engine light. ...ECU fault codes, also known as diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are part of the on-board diagnostic (OBD II) system in your car." So - wouldn't it "turn on the check engine light" - even if the're "pending codes stored"?? Do scan tool's not normaly "scan the ECU for DTCs"? What am I missing? (Don't get me wrong. I know Google is not the expert. I had to look up "DTC".) Thanks for your help.
  6. Like the title states - I have a 2008 Impreza (auto trans) with a cruise control problem. After about 5 to 10 minutes of driving the cruise stops working and the "cruise" light flashes until I turn the car off. Wait few minutes for it to reset. Wash, rinse & repeat. I've read several other threads with similar symptoms. But mine -There's no check engine, or other idiot lights in conjunction with... Plugged my scan tool in anyways (just in case) and it says everything is ok. Clearly not. Any Ideas? Thanks!
  7. Hi Folks!, Any one got a line on where to get new front struts for my 1980DL? All the usual suppliers (RockAuto, Summit Racing, AutoZone, Napa & O'Reilly's) have only rear shocks. Thanks in advance for your help!
  8. I like the idea. But, my concern is that there may be something else directly taped into the old regulator that I haven't found yet.
  9. That makes sense ... So, whats the fix? Attach the old wire or delete the old regulator?
  10. This is weird and at first doesn't seem related, but bear with me... Earlier I said: What I didn't mention is; the motor died after the "few revs" and I didn't think anything of it. I turned off the ignition switch and moved on to wiring. After finishing up the wiring side of things. I got in the seat, hit the starter and the engine cranked, but it didn't start. I squirted some starter fluid in the carb, it fired up (as expected) and died shortly after. A few more times and the same result. It's running off the starter fluid so I can conclude there's spark at the plugs. Then I noticed that there was no fuel visible in the sight glass of the float bowl... Yep. The (new) fuel pump isn't pumping. In effort to fault isolate, I attached the pump wires directly to the battery. The pump works! Back to the terminal... Nope! So, it's not the pump. After tracing the pump wires I found that they lead directly back to the old voltage regulator. By eliminating the original (white) alternator power lead to the battery I killed power to the fuel pump. This is where I need your help folks. My question is: Can I attach the old (white) alternator power lead to the alternator in conjunction with the new (red) alternator power lead to power everything else and (possibly) not blow the fusible links? Or should I be asking... The new alternator has its own internal regulator, right? How do I delete the old one and keep everything working? What are your thoughts? .
  11. Oh, and because the alternator is now a bit outboard of its original location I had to get a new belt. 2 trips and 8 belts later I found that 38 5/8 inch was a tight fit but the best option. On to wiring. Got it; and made an easy "L" bracket to mount it to the trans bell housing... Ok. I'm not sure what "8B+S" is but my guess, that's 8 gauge here. Found some left over from a previous project. Done... Easy: done... Wha? That's odd. Mine's labeled differently than that. Top of my "T" is "N" and the bottom is "F". Oh well. Easy enough. Done and done. That should be it. .
  12. Thank you. The alignment appears to be spot on. I fired up the motor, gave a few revs and the belt didn't jump-off... yet. It took some time to figure out but the jig I made allowed me to square-up the crank pulley and water pump pulley to the alternator pulley. Then I made LOTS of measurements. More to come... I still need to follow ANIM_Hooneru's wiring instructions. .
  13. On to the alternator adjuster bracket: Two things had to happen here. Since the new mount pushed the alternator a little more outward, I had to make an extension for it. Yes, that's the... Was the "L" shaped bracket that attached the garage door to the opener. It was late and I was determined to get this thing done. Secondly; The adjuster doesn't mate to the alternator. I had to make another bracket with along bolt to go through the alternator and a short bolt ninety'd to go through the adjuster bracket. .
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