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Found 313 results

  1. So My 04 legacy jumped a gear pulling into a parking lot threw a p0866 engine code defined as a TCM Communication Circuit High. Also the flashing AT oil temp light. Is there a diagram I can see to find out if I’m able to access the issue or is it more internal and I’ll have to pull the trans for repair
  2. Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice.
  3. I've got a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback with a 5-speed manual transmission and I've been driving it for almost ten years. Just lately I've started having problems hitting the correct gears when I shift. I try to put it in 1st and I hit 3rd. I try to get into 2nd and I hit 4th. Sometimes I try to go into 3rd and I hit 5th. And there have even been several times when I've been shifting into 4th and I've hit reverse (which is really disturbing). It seems that all the proper gear positions are drifting to the left, so I'm now hitting one gear to the right of where I should be. The problem only started about a month ago, and it's definitely getting worse every day. Any idea what could be causing this? Is there some bolt that holds the transmission in place and could be coming loose? Or maybe the rods connected to the gear shift are starting to bend? Everything else is working and the car is driving fine, but changing gears is just going to be impossible if this keeps getting worse.
  4. Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike
  5. so the other day when i went to park my 97 Legacy wagon, and put all the windows up, the Right Rear window would not go up straight. I've taken the door panel off to investigate what broke, and i found that one of the little plastic bushings where the window regulator arm snaps into and slides in the rail bolted to the bottom of the glass had broken in half, and so only one of the two regulator arms is actually attached to the glass. my question is, is this bushing available separately anywhere, or am i forced to just replace the entire regulator? a regulator is not too expensive, but two little plastic bushings have to be even cheaper, right?
  6. I’ve bought a 1991 AWD Legacy LS Special wagon for a teen driver’s first car. It’s got a leak in the front air shocks. What is the most cost effective way to repair/ replace? I’m $1500 in and this car only has 98k miles on it, so a lot of potential life, but an inexperienced driver. Can they be swapped out for regular shocks or is there an affordable aftermarket air option? Should I look for struts from a junk yard? Is it worth it to pay $600 per strut to Subaru for their replacement parts?
  7. I am in desperate need of a 1994 Subaru Legacy EJ22 Wiring Harness and ECU in order to do a Volkswagen Vanagon Engine Swap. I have a custom made conversion kit through Kennedy Automotive out of Palmdale California that is made specifically for a 1985 Automatic Volkswagen Vanagon and a 1994 Subaru Legacy EJ22 engine. I have the transmission conversion kit and the engine and everything else that came with the cutom conversion kit except for the wiring harness. Any help in locating the part would be MUCH appreciated. I am willing to pay for shipping handling and labor if anyone can find one in decent condition. I can't find any junkyards within hundreds of miles of my location that have this car in their yards. I need this specific engine wiring harness because the conversion company has a deal with the state of California that allows instant smog certification on these specific engines.
  8. Basically.... About 3 weeks ago car was intermittent no start. Cranking was rough/rumbly and gas pedal hadda be teased in order for it to sometimes start. Attached a missing ground strap and car was reliable for a few weeks. Still had a bit of a rough/rumbly start but at least started and drove. It ran fine, but I pulled the motor for HG job and no spark after re-install. Tested coil pack resistance, tested bad. Swapped coil pack....didn't help. Power to coil pack, no signal to coil pack. Crank sensor & cam sensors pass resistance tests. Checked wiring to ECU, passed. Reinstalled ECU, engine started and ran for 15 seconds including idling and revs but no issue was actually solved... But we reinstalled accessories. Again, no spark, no signal to coil. Fuses tested/examined, so not a fuse. It's a 2001 Subary Legacy Outback 2.5/EJ25. Any advice on what might be going on or how to test the ECU would be great help.
  9. Please help! I just bought a 99 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 2.5l H4 motor and automatic trans. Car has 46k miles. I used Seafoam through a vacuum line to clean the engine because I was told the car had been sitting for a while. I put 1/3 of the can in at idle and then shut the car off to let the product soak in for 30 min. Upon starting the vehicle back up I noticed the AT oil temp flashing steadily. I performed a 10 mile drive to clear the seafoam out as directed... and the AT oil temp was still flashing. I let the car sit overnight and started it cold... Light is still flashing. Trans fluid is very clean, however, when making tight turns it feels like the car is grabbing hard. When the wheel is straight the car moves freely with very minimal gas given. Now my check engine light is on and I’m getting a P400 code for EGR. Any ideas? Thanks!
  10. Any help or info would be a help. Thanks Isaak---
  11. We own a 2003 Subaru Forester XS 2.5L, VIN 6, 6th digit. Unfortunately, the engine heads and block cracked. We are searching for another 2.5L engine that would work. Main Question: What years/models come with a compatible engine for the 2003 Forester? For example, would a 2.5L from a 1999 Legacy work? Thank you in advance.
  12. Hello to all, I need some help with my Subaru Legacy Outback 2012. I live in Switzerland in an area where the winters can get rather cold but nothing under -15 Cel. My Outback at around 60K km after a winter where I opened and shut the windows several times has made all 4 windows loose in their rails. Some of the times I tried to open the windows they wouldn't budge so I should have just never touched them in winter if the car wasn't properly warmed up. I took off the front passengers side door panel and peeled back the plastic sheet and I believe it could be the bottom cable of the window regulator that is stretched. When I pull it the window has less play. Does anyone know if I take the motor and window regulator out is there a way to adjust the tension or tighten the cable in some way? Or should I just abandon this? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. I linked a video to this post to show you what I'm talking about. View My Video
  13. My 99 Legacy L 30th anniversary edition has 300K miles on it, shifter is beyond sloppy. I have not been able to find a shift rebuild kit for the Legacy, I'm wondering if the Impreza kits will fit or if anyone has experience with a Legacy kit. I'm looking for all linkages, arms and bushings. I know the bushings might come together but everything else may have to be ordered seprately.
  14. Sometimes I can be a scatter brain ... not thinking about it I just washed the undercarriage of my car almost immediately after getting a protective undercoat applied to my new Subaru . Did I just waste $600... ;(
  15. Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344
  16. Howdy, All. I'm hoping to get some guidance/advice on where to go next. I've got a 99 Legacy Outback (30th Anniversary edition) that just flat out died while driving on the interstate. No previous problems or symptoms. Car turns over, just never starts. Note: The check engine light is not on. I've run the diagnostics, and gotten no codes. Here's what I've done: * I believe it's not getting spark (by spraying starting fluid and still nothing, also I can hear the fuel pump switch on and I pulled the fuel line and am getting output). * I put on a new coil pack - no change to the symptoms or status. * I took my ignitor and put it into another car. Other car performed fine. * I took out the crank sensor and the cam sensor to test them. They appear to be functioning fine. * I took out the ECU and put in one that I know to be fine - no change to the symptoms or status. *** Note: I found it weird that the car had the same symptoms regardless of whether an ECU was hooked up or not. Now, where do I go from here? Timing? Also, please know that about every fifty attempts at trying to start it, it sounds like it gets close to catching at the initial key-turn, but then nothing. Please help.
  17. Hi all I've owned my Legacy for a couple of months now and I think it's a great car. Surprisingly capable off road, and despite its tendency to pitch and roll, pretty good on the black stuff too, even at speed. My only two gripes are the lack of power (this issue is further compounded by the stainless exhaust exhaust that came with the car; she's pretty loud, which makes it feel slower still) My other problem is the brakes. When i first got the car they were very spongy and the brakes were dangerously weak. I took the car to the shop and had the brake fluid change. This improved the braking a fair amount, however I am still not satisfied with the feel and efficiency of the brakes. I have fitted a switch to enable/disable the ABS system, and with the ABS disabled, i am still unable to lock the wheels on dry tarmac, and I struggle even on wet tarmac to lock the wheels. Changing the fluid has helped, but i'm far from happy with the brake feel and performance. There's also plenty of meat left on the pads, and the discs appear to be in good condition. What would you guys recommend? Thank you in advance for your reply.
  18. Hi! A few years ago my car was running even though it was off. I thought we took out the abs fuse but maybe I was wrong? Where the fuse was it was H/L Relay LH. Right when we took it out my ABS light was on? It has been so many years, we tried to find a replacement but couldn't find it. Am I going insane? Does a 95 have an abs fuse? I just wanna fix the light for my brother. I look online and it says its a head light fuse but all of my headlights work and in great shape, I'm so lost. Update I just found out my brother showed me the fuse box upside down over face time. IM looking for SBF no 7 fuse. Would that cause for abs like turning on? This is not the exact picture of my fuse box but its this on in the photo except I am missing SBF 7 and 6 http://allauto.biz/wp-content/uploads/mods/subaru-forester-2.0-mt--1993-26514-5.jpg
  19. Our 2007 Legacy Station Wagon (owned since january 2012) has recently started to give us intermittent rumbling sound/loss of power for 2-4 seconds only intermittently. It is not loud. On a 15 minute drive it may occur 2-6 times. It feels like maybe transmission/axle/all wheel drive related. (Computer or sensor related ?). Our mechanic, who we have had take excellent care of 9 different extended family vehicles over the last 15 years, is somewhat baffled but has experienced this issue himself on test drives. He just did replace the transmission oil in an attempt to resolve the problem and also looking for bits of metal at that time, but not found no bits of metal and said that the result often indicates that there is probably on transmission issue. We recently experienced a failing transmission on a 1996 Montero and the issue with the Legacy does not feel similar. The local Subaru dealer is a train wreck and dishonest. Our mechanic says he is getting no error codes (don't know if it is possible to check for diagnostic error codes for a long period of time during a test drive). I read one post on another site that seemed to be describing a similar issue and that 5 trips to the Subaru dealer yielded no error codes or resolution but that when the issue worsened, they happened to be near a Firestone dealer who immediately diagnosed a bad sensor, and they replaced the sensor and resolved the issue. Any ideas ? Thanks- Doug
  20. Hi All, My manual 2000 Subaru Legacy has recently started acting up while idling over the past two weeks. It idles at around 900-1000 rpm and intermittently shakes. The shaking has gradually become more frequent over the past weeks and the CEL came on about a week ago. Just today, it occasionally started idling at 2000 rpm and increasing the rpms (accelerating) without me pushing the gas (this was mostly happening while I was moving). My assumptions after some research is that it is either the MAF or MAP sensor. I sprayed down the MAF sensor with MAF spray to no avail. I visually checked for leaks in the hose and sprayed the hoses down with carburetor cleaner to check for hoses and did not see any leaks or hear the engine rev. I just had the CEL codes checked today, and it came up with P0304: cylinder 4 misfire and P0113: intake air temperature sensor 1, circuit high input. Would totally appreciate any help as I'd like to avoid another costly mechanic bill Thanks!
  21. Hello, I have a 2006 Legacy 2.5I Automatic When I am drive @ 65-75 MPH with Cruise Control on, and the car is between a hill and flat area, I can feel the car "accelerate" then "decelerating " more that I think it is suppose to. I run 93 octane fuel. Injectors were professionally cleaned and tested. New Plugs, Ignition Coil(Subaru), Ignition Wires (Subaru), Timing Belt New (Subaru) all new components (Subaru) The engine runs smooth. I just notice this when cruise is on going up a hill. Thoughts?
  22. First time forum post. Just bought my daughter a 2009 Forester (66K). Nice vehicle. Impulse buy as they seem to go fast here in Buffalo. Never owned a Subaru before but lI iike that they are AWD and that they have a good reputation -also seem to have good resale value. Great ride compared to Toyota Rav (4 cylinder) which was my other choice. I am impressed by the Subaru reputation so am advising my son to get a used Legacy. He has no money of course so I want to do a bit more research before he buys a Used 2008 Legacy 2.5L with 74K. I will get a full service report from dealer and am familiar with all the potential issues (head Gasket, Timing Belt, etc). I think having a mechanic throw it up on a lift will be a good idea as well. Any other advice? I think dealer is asking $8300. That seems reasonable based on KBB. Is there any other issues with that year I should be concerned with? I think I saw a recall for rusted break lines so will check that out-other than that, any other info would be appreciated.
  23. I've had a few '95 Legacies with the EJ22 over the years. One made it to 386,000 (MT), another died of a freak headgasket problem a little after 200k, and my current one (AT) is at 387,500 or so. The transmission was replaced with a used one about 200,000 miles ago. The clutch pack started having problems a couple of years ago, so I've been running it in FWD for a while. The shifting has been getting wonky over the last year or so - i.e. sometimes won't come out of first gear, and the speedometer doesn't move, then suddenly will shift just fine. The problem is that I've been telling my wife for years that these engines never die, can go for 500,000 miles . . . I think it will be time to move on when the transmission finally goes. She says we should just put another one in. Given the age/mileage of salvage yard transmissions at this point, plus the cost and overall age of the vehicle, I think it will be time to retire the car. As much as I'd love to keep it going forever, I feel like it's reached the age where it's time to enact a DNR for anything major. What do y'all think?
  24. As I have lost my original threads thanks to Photobucket's nonsense, we will start anew. I introduce my 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi, which I have for over a year now. The road to glory has been a good one so far and time will reveal more greatness for this car. Here is what was done to my car during the high compression EJ22D project in the past year: Engine: EJ20D heads, valves, and valve springs (1997). EJ25D big plenum manifold (1996 LSi stock). EJ25D wiring harness (1996 LSi stock). EJ253 water pump (2006). EJ222 block and head gaskets. EJ205 oil pump (detailed). EJ257 coolant crosspipe and sensor. EJ257 timing assembly and extra roller. EJ257 oil pan. EJ257 Moroso oil pickup. Gates blue teflon belt (DO NOT BUY THESE). Tomei timing belt guide. VMS lightweight crank pulley (1lbs). Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers w/bolts. All new seals and bolts. Self milled heads via sanding. Lightly ground intake ports. Refreshened and seated valves. 4 extra straight pins for head gasket and head security (Str8 mod). Custom head bolt torque sequence (2lbs tighter on the last 3 rules). 1st generation Subaru Legacy engine cover and brackets. EGR disable. Ignition: Started with Dodge 420A coil, then upgraded to MSD 8239, then further up to the Accel super coil for the SRT-4. Body: 1999 Outback SUS bumper covers, front bumper brace, and grille. Lights: JDM RS front headlights with HID system. Sequential front turn signal lighting. Rear USDM w/VNT red paint. Exhaust: Early UEL w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler (we'll call it the Noemi Spec C). Electronics: WRX radio. Raizin voltage stabilizer. New Sony xPlod rear speakers. Interior: 1997 Outback SUS Safari woodgrain trim (actual laminated wood). Steering: 2004 STi steering rack. L&E Fabrications steering wheel to rack conversion joint. Rallitek steering rack poly bushings. How the car looks today.
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