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Found 12 results

  1. Hello! I have a 1993 Loyale with just over 90 on the clock that has just started acting up on me. i have been combing the threads and tried about everything i could find and am still having issues! The main big problem is that it seems to be in some kind of "limp" mode. Absolutely minimal power when you press the accelerator down. i can get it up to about 25 mph and then no faster. Engine is not over heating as far as i can tell but when i run it and it gets to temp and the idle settles down the exhaust manifold seems to overheat. It is burning off old crud and smoking a little. Background: Water pump and cooling fan needed to be replaced. While replacing found that master cylinder and brakes needed some love so they were replaced as well. I got car back and drove for about 4 days before it started doing this limp mode thing out of nowhere. So i started researching on here. I pulled the MAF sensor and it seems to be in good repair and clean. I pulled the exhaust of the engine and checked it doing a vacuum test i found on here. (hook vaccuum up to tail pipe and see if it struggles with manifold disconnected) It passed that test. So i read the code off the ECM. EGR, which seems like an easy fix right? Wrong! Replaced the EGR solenoid and still have the same issue. Back to the drawing board. at this point for some reason the car's idle has started acting very weird. Surgin to 2500 and lowering to about stalling, on and off without rhyme or reason. I read that the Engine temperature sensor can affect idle and fix the speed issue, so i replaced it today. Idle is back to normal and check engine light is gone BUTTTTTTTTT car still has no engine power!! I am at a loss at this point and would appreciate ANY help!! Thanks in advance! -Devin
  2. For at least a few months I have had this popping sound coming from what sounds like is inside the dash after decelerating from highway speeds. I am hoping that someone has heard this before or can help me pinpoint cause. I'd like to fix it if possible or at least know that something critical is failing or going to leave me stranded. This is a 1993 Subaru Impreza Wagon/Hatchback and has an EJ18 1.8L SOHC engine with manual transmission, AWD, and no ABS. This sound only occurs after the car as warmed up (it is silent when cold), after driving at 50+ mph for at least a few minutes, and then decelerating and driving around slower. Here is a video where you can hear the noise I am talking about: This video has the driving around cut out. This is after I have driven probably 5 miles at 55 mph and then slowed down into a subdivision. You will notice that it starts making a popping noise which sounds like it is somewhere in the middle of the dash. This is noticeable after getting off the highway but becomes even more noticeable once I slow down further from 35 mph to 20 mph. During the course of this video, I move the camera around between the drivers side and passenger side under the dash, and the on top of the dash. This noise is noticeably louder if there is a bigger difference in speed. Example: 70 mph freeway to an almost stop off an exit. This sound does not exist when the car is completely still. Or if it does, there are only one or two pops and then it stops. You will notice that the noise is not rhythmic and fairly random. I do not believe this is a problem with a engine rotating part, otherwise the sound would exist when revving the car in neutral; which it does not. This video was taken over a month ago and the noise has become louder/more severe when it occurs. This sound started somewhere around the time after I replaced timing belt (and other regular replacement parts normally done at this time), water pump, thermostat, flushed the cooling system and added brand new coolant. This may or may not be related. Has anyone heard anything like this before? Any hypothesis? Is my car dying a slow painful death? Thanks in advance!
  3. I picked up a 1993 Loyale wagon for 400$, expecting the best from it as i always have... well it just so happens i bought the only subaru that has ever given me problems! Mainly due to the fact that the previous owner had no idea what they were doing and messed alot of things up. looking for some advice and guidance for sure! Ive done head gasket jobs on plenty of my buddies chevys but never on a boxer. ive got a chiltons on the way and wanted to ask if theres anything i should know before ordering parts and diving in? any info would be greatly appreciated. My ultimate goal is to lift it 2' and turn it into an offroad rig.
  4. Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.
  5. Hello, I just joined this message board. I am having "problems" with shifting from first to second in my car. I suspect is could be solenoid, a sensor or a tired tranny. Here's some info. All of the car minus the engine has 250k on it. The engine is only at 130k. I come out of first gear with high revs between 4-5k at 30-40mph and it feels rough, forward to back rocking and then proceeds to run business as usual from second to third. It doesn't at all feel natural between the action of the shift and how delayed it is. I know something is wrong but trannys are not my forte so I can't quite put my finger on it. I hope for this to be a cheaper fix than replacing the tranny. Thanks for any help!
  6. I am new to this forum as of today, and I would like some feedback from what I wish would be a decent forum post (with hopefully correct tags): My 93' Subaru Legacy LS Sedan 4spd Auto. has been with me for ~3-4 years. It was bought used 260k. Long story, I had driven on the engine with out oil ironically on my way to an oil check up. It was unbeknownst to me that the engines oil was low, but I knew I was due for a check up. Anyway, engine died completely, no rescuing it (in my opinion) based on financial incapability and not a general car person anyway to know if it was fixable. Bought a new engine from an auto junkyard, working CORE. No problems, 105k miles 800 dollars for engine, 500 for install. Took it back to mechanic after install because old radiator had a crack in it same day of pick up. Figured he must have messed up and some sort of air pocket split the radiator (which was plastic). Got a new radiator for 50 dollars installed, all metal because mechanic said it was better. One day later I notice the idle is too low for OEM standards which is 700 (+-) 100rpm. It idled rough and I had multiple people tell me things ranging from cleaning the intake to a fuel pump gone bad. Take it back down to him under the impression that the idle timing belt was off. He redid it for free under warranty. Picked it up, it was running fine now, no problems... except the idle was too damn high; over the 1000 rpm mark, not even close to 700 (+-) 100rpm. I figure at least its running better than before. ~2-3 days later I have a check engine light come on, never happened ever before with the old engine so this is new to me. The day after, it goes away, I figure maybe some sort of sensor went off for a bit. Not sure, not a general car person. Same day now check engine light was on, I drove it on the highway at highway speeds 50-60mph. I got off the highway, had a low idle again, engine was rumbling the car and I was idling rough. The car had problems going into first gear, kept jumping the rpm's from 2000 to almost stall and hovered around 2500 when trying to get out of first gear. I had to accelerate to get it into second and going. Take it back down to mechanic, tells me that he couldn't recreate the problems that I had before after running highway speeds and that it was okay to pick it up. I had my doubts but I said fine and picked it up. ~2 days later my family is driving my car for their needs. They have the same problems I do, and we approximate that the distance traveled in the vehicle from home to past a good 100+ miles away was a source of the problem. They pull in the drive way and the radiator is smoking. We sit and wait for the radiator to cool down, pop off the cap and let it cool down more to fill up the thing. We notice that the overflow container is fill to over capacity full of radiator coolant. About 15-25 mins later it bubbles back down into the radiator and I figured it was an air pocket of some sort, not sure and as of now it still remains undetermined professionally. Another two days go by, another problem arises with the engine it may seem. The car did not over heat like it did before when my family drove it and brought it back home smoking, rather it's rpm's were at it again whilst the check engine light remained on. So far, as of right now during this post, the car is having a tough time starting up and after ward the rpm's do the same thing it did before except its almost gets to the point where it wants to shut off wherein I have to switch it into neutral and keep my foot on the accelerator to keep it from stalling or falling below the OEM idle. We were then TOLD and I repeat TOLD, not professionally checked, by that mechanic that he thinks the Fuel injection system on the car (which I believe is the 16 point one) needs to be cleaned out? I am looking for a definite opinion on this as I've listed the whole story behind the vehicles maintenance for a reason. I felt it necessary to give these details to those who need them as to add up the problems on the car and what may have caused them. Please do not think we are lazy or mistreat our vehicles, after all we buy our "new" cars used. We are not in anyway always financially capable to do vehicle repairs, and so far this was one of the largest of them all for us to do totaling around 1550 for buying, installing, and buying a new radiator.
  7. I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!!
  8. Hey everyone! New to the forums but I thought I would start out with a great mystery for everyone that I still can't seem to figure out I have a 93 Legacy L, just a hair over 200K and just did an oil change and a battery pull roughly 30 miles before this incident. I'm driving about 4 miles, cold car, doing a little under 30mph. My AC is on but engine temp is low and no cel or anything. I slow to turn and clutch in to shift into second, when I suddenly lose power steering part way through the turn! I safely pull over and notice CEL, Battery, and maybe one other light (Oil?), I really can't remember because I shut it off so quickly. I stood there for 20 minutes just inspecting the engine trying to figure out what could possibly cause all those symptoms. Turned the AC off and it started up like nothing had happened and drove the 1/2 mile home. The idle was erratically low but it has been all week because of the battery negative pull. The car is also showing no data for the check engine either. Now I know my negative terminal clamp needs to be replaced, but if it fell off it would be totally dead and not partial. All fluids were normal, no power steering leaks, and the belts were perfectly fine (no burnt smell either indicating seized AC compressor). I've heard suggestions of an alternator, but the alternator is somewhat new and tests fine for voltage. I really have no other problems with this car besides a chattery clutch when cold So here's where it gets weird...This was my dad's car previously (Bought New), and he said it's done this once or twice randomly before with the exact same symptoms and no lasting effects or symptoms. Now he also owns an 08 Outback that he claims has done this once before too, which adds to my utter bafflement. Now take his claims with a grain of salt; I wasn't there and it they could have been different enough to just be another matter entirely, but still odd nonetheless. I've been over this a thousand times and I just can't make heads or tails...If anybody has any insight it would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully I didn't break any rules already by making such a huge wall of text, but thank you all for reading/submitting, and I look forward to posting some of my own responses around here in the future!
  9. I need some help with an odd electrical issue. (I could not find any existing threads on this, but please point me toward them if they exist!) This is a 1993 Legacy L Wagon with 226k. About a year ago, during the cold Chicago winter, I started noticing the following behavior. At random times, the entire electrical system in the car experiences what seems to be a pulsating voltage change, like a sine wave, at around 80-120 Hz. All the lights pulsate bright-dim bright-dim in unison, and I can hear the cabin fan spin faster/slower in unsion with the lights. Sometimes, the Brake warning light on the instrument cluster will flash on and off in unison as well. I know that the Brake light coming on is a failure mode for the alternator. The alternator is quite new and I had it and the rest of the charging system checked last year - it's all fine. I replaced the battery (needed it anyway) and also the plugs and wires (was having a starting problem). No change. Over the summer, I did not notice this issue. This week, as the cold sets in again (30-50 F), I see the same issue. The only suggestion I've heard is to check the grounds, but since the issue seems related to cold weather, I'm not sure that is the issue. I will have them checked at next service. Any ideas on this? Thanks!
  10. hey guys, just had a question. Buying a car on vancouver island, going back up north soon, and found what seems to be a good one. 1993 legacy ls with 124k kilometres on it. only real issue i see is the subaru mechanic working on it says it needs a computer, because overdrive wont work. seems to drive kinda meh without it. seems tranny is working irratic without the new computer, but with one, could be good. they want 2200 for it with comp, but would probably have to buy the car first. tranny fluid and oil have been checked/changed and are clean. Just when you step on it, it over revs, seems to want to switch to overdrive. Do you have any suggestions about what else might be wrong with car? as i said, seems to be all good, i just want to know if thd computer will make a definite difference to the shifting ability and all. they are also selling a 98 forester with apparently new gaskets, with 190k, but he also wont budge on 4000 for that one.
  11. Hey Subaru Nation - I have a 1992 Legacy 2.2 (non-turbo) and I'm trying to diagnose some idling issues. The car runs fine but once its warmed up it begins to surge idle at stops (sometimes stalling). I had a cracked air intake and I replaced it with no resolve and I've cleaned out the throttle body and I'm currently replacing the Idle air control valve with a new one (new gaskets all around). My next option is replacing the mass air flow sensor. My current sensor has 5 pins and all of the replacements I've seen online have 5 slots but only 4 pins?? Does it matter? Will the 4 pin work the same? Also if anyone has any further ideas or sollutions for idling issues - I'm much appreciative. I've also changed out the coolant/thermostat. Thanks for the help!
  12. Searched forums but can't find answer...I’m not very technical or mechanical(yet!).. Looking to buy Loyale and I think I found a 1993. Wondering about compatibility. I think I know the answer, it is the 88-94 subaru loyale parts are mostly compatible, right? What about 87’s and older GL’s? My long term plan is to convert to D/R 4wd and maybe engine swap down the road. I would think the lift kits and shocks are same for year range too? Thanks!
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