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Yes indeed I do actually. Although I'm not sure they would be the correct tools for a vehicle, as far fetched as that may sound. By that I mean I do believe they would obviously would work on the car, I just don't have anything specific for car tools.

I am looking for quality Subaru shops around the Spanaway or Tacoma, Washington area. I have installed a new engine in my 93' Legacy LS Sedan 4spd-Auto. and I need a quality shop able to handle our financial needs of Middle if not Lower Middle Class. The car is used, and has been experiencing many a problem from the engine install. We need a shop ASAP. Thank you.

I appreciate both of your inputs here on my thread. If it is alright with you both, I would like to continue to keep this thread open, BUT, if this is a bad idea then let me know and I'll close it as soon as I can. I would like to see more answers here but it seems that I may need to go to a professional Subaru shop as previously stated. Thank you for your time and trouble.

I am new to this forum as of today, and I would like some feedback from what I wish would be a decent forum post (with hopefully correct tags): My 93' Subaru Legacy LS Sedan 4spd Auto. has been with me for ~3-4 years. It was bought used 260k. Long story, I had driven on the engine with out oil ironically on my way to an oil check up. It was unbeknownst to me that the engines oil was low, but I knew I was due for a check up. Anyway, engine died completely, no rescuing it (in my opinion) based on financial incapability and not a general car person anyway to know if it was fixable. Bought a new engine from an auto junkyard, working CORE. No problems, 105k miles 800 dollars for engine, 500 for install. Took it back to mechanic after install because old radiator had a crack in it same day of pick up. Figured he must have messed up and some sort of air pocket split the radiator (which was plastic). Got a new radiator for 50 dollars installed, all metal because mechanic said it was better. One day later I notice the idle is too low for OEM standards which is 700 (+-) 100rpm. It idled rough and I had multiple people tell me things ranging from cleaning the intake to a fuel pump gone bad. Take it back down to him under the impression that the idle timing belt was off. He redid it for free under warranty. Picked it up, it was running fine now, no problems... except the idle was too damn high; over the 1000 rpm mark, not even close to 700 (+-) 100rpm. I figure at least its running better than before. ~2-3 days later I have a check engine light come on, never happened ever before with the old engine so this is new to me. The day after, it goes away, I figure maybe some sort of sensor went off for a bit. Not sure, not a general car person. Same day now check engine light was on, I drove it on the highway at highway speeds 50-60mph. I got off the highway, had a low idle again, engine was rumbling the car and I was idling rough. The car had problems going into first gear, kept jumping the rpm's from 2000 to almost stall and hovered around 2500 when trying to get out of first gear. I had to accelerate to get it into second and going. Take it back down to mechanic, tells me that he couldn't recreate the problems that I had before after running highway speeds and that it was okay to pick it up. I had my doubts but I said fine and picked it up. ~2 days later my family is driving my car for their needs. They have the same problems I do, and we approximate that the distance traveled in the vehicle from home to past a good 100+ miles away was a source of the problem. They pull in the drive way and the radiator is smoking. We sit and wait for the radiator to cool down, pop off the cap and let it cool down more to fill up the thing. We notice that the overflow container is fill to over capacity full of radiator coolant. About 15-25 mins later it bubbles back down into the radiator and I figured it was an air pocket of some sort, not sure and as of now it still remains undetermined professionally. Another two days go by, another problem arises with the engine it may seem. The car did not over heat like it did before when my family drove it and brought it back home smoking, rather it's rpm's were at it again whilst the check engine light remained on. So far, as of right now during this post, the car is having a tough time starting up and after ward the rpm's do the same thing it did before except its almost gets to the point where it wants to shut off wherein I have to switch it into neutral and keep my foot on the accelerator to keep it from stalling or falling below the OEM idle. We were then TOLD and I repeat TOLD, not professionally checked, by that mechanic that he thinks the Fuel injection system on the car (which I believe is the 16 point one) needs to be cleaned out? I am looking for a definite opinion on this as I've listed the whole story behind the vehicles maintenance for a reason. I felt it necessary to give these details to those who need them as to add up the problems on the car and what may have caused them. Please do not think we are lazy or mistreat our vehicles, after all we buy our "new" cars used. We are not in anyway always financially capable to do vehicle repairs, and so far this was one of the largest of them all for us to do totaling around 1550 for buying, installing, and buying a new radiator.