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Found 1 result

  1. Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.
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