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Found 43 results

  1. Hello, I am trying to hook up a 4 pin trailer light kit to my 93 Subaru legacy. I have Probed out: Break light Turn indicator ( both sides) and Running lights. The questions I have ( and have searched for) are : -The 4 pin setup lists the break and turn signals as the same single connection, but when I probe the plugs to the tail lights, The brake light and the turn signal wires are not on together for either function. How would one go about wiring this ? ( right now I have it wired for running lights and turn signals) -Is there a wiring harness somewhere further back I should be tapping into vs right at the tail lights ? The Wiring kit I have simply says : " Wiring guide Green wire to right turn / stop Yellow wire to left turn / stop Brown wire to tail lights White Ground" Thanks for any help with the issue directly or being pointed to a thread video or image I was not aware of,
  2. I've had my '79 Brat for a year or so and, as you'd expect, things occasionally go wrong and then I yell at the car with a wrench and then it's okay again, generally. Right now my biggest headache is a series of minor electrical issues, which for a while had my headlights not working, but since I got them on I've been mostly ignoring. My horn won't beep, though, and that's going to be an issue come inspection time in February, so it's time to deal with it. In my adventures around the guts of my car I've found lots of electrical dead-ends and strange fixes to issues that must have come up years ago, so this seemed like the time to trace out my full harness and see what's actually going on. I diagrammed out all the wires between the battery and the firewall, so now I need to get into the cabin and track the dumb wires around under the console. Does anyone have any sage insight on any of this? Particularly if there's a good way to get under there without making pulling the dash apart and reassembling a major project on its own? Should I just give up and run more wires as my whims suggest and leave vestigial cabling everywhere like people have been doing for nearly 40 years?
  3. My fiance has a '79 Brat that was left to her, and it's having a fueling issue. That is, it was running fine then sat for several years. I put a new battery in it and nothing. If I hot wire the fuel pump it comes on. All I have been able to find is something stating that the alternator sends signal to the voltage regulator which then tells the pump to kick on. I cannot find an actual wiring diagram. It had a new alternator and regulator just before storage; it has another new regulator and the alternator was tested as being good. Tested twice, actually. Nobody can tell me if there is a relay or something, and as I said, I cannot find a wiring diagram anywhere. Does anybody out there have one? Or have any ideas? It would be most appreciated as she is most vocal about this being running ASAP. I should also note that I have power at the fuse. Thank you!
  4. My '03 Baja failed inspection for a passenger side front blinker light being out. I replaced the bulb and thought all was good, took car back to have re-inspected but was told the tail lights were out. went to replace the bulbs in rear, but none appeared to be blown so checked the # 5 fuse and that was blown. I replaced that fuse and it blew immediately. checked bulbs again and also checked sockets for corrosion, all appeared fine So I tried Having the front running lights with the sockets not hooked up but back lights fully intact, and the back lights worked. If I then plug in driver side front light socket the fuse doesn't blow, however, if I add a bulb to that socket, or have passenger side socket installed at same time as driver side, the fuse will blow. My question is: Has anyone had this type of issue and how did you resolve it?
  5. - Fixed - I'm almost positive this has been discussed but after hours of searching the boards, I'm at a loss. I swapped a 95 ej22 into a 95 ej18 car. These 2 electrical connections remain unattached and I'm uncertain if they were ever attached to anything. Any help would be appreciated.
  6. I know there is tons of threads on this but I couldn't find anything talking about doing the wire harness swap. From what I understand there is a harness merge you do with the auto loom to make the manual drivetrain work normal. What I am looking at doing since my manual (2002 Subaru Forester S) got hit by a drunk driver is to swap everything besides the motor over to an Auto Forester (2001 Subaru Forester S). What is needed in terms of electrical to make it fully function (reverse lights, cruise control, abs, speedometer, key lock)? Links are greatly appreciated too!
  7. Yesterday I removed the blower motor for diagnostics and replaced its relay near the in-cabin fuse box of my 2004 Outback Limited. Replacing the relay solved the problem with the blower motor. When putting the blower motor back in place, however, I had to really pull and mush on a large mass of wires that runs directly below the blower motor. It was not a simple task to take the motor out or put it back due to this large group of wires (roughly 1-2 inches in diameter) running right under the blower motor with very little room to budge. Immediately after getting the motor back in position, my car would not start and the fuel pump relay would buzz madly with the key in ignition. The stereo receiver died and the lights on the dash were dying. After turning my car off, a part under the hood began to buzz and all the electrical equipment began to rhythmically click and turn on/off. I disconnected the battery and went to bed. I messed something up when getting the blower motor back in. I pulled wires loose or damaged them. The wires branch off after passing the blower motor, some running to the blower and the rest running up the passenger side of the car. When getting the motor back in I pulled on a small black circle with three little holes in it, above where the passenger would rest his feet. It appeared to feed into the group of wires and run out to the engine compartment. Maybe this is important. Any information regarding troubleshooting or what could be wrong with my car would be very helpful. Thank you. Attached are pictures of items I mentioned in the post: the fuel pump relay, the part under the hood that buzzes, the group of wires under the blower motor, and the black circle with the three holes in it.
  8. Hello, so I bought a '92 loyale 6 weeks ago off craigslist, 240k mi on it. Its my first car and I'm really excited but a couple weeks ago the tail running lights went out and I got pulled over. I replaced the bulbs, still out. Brought it to a mechanic and after checking some stuff he is hesitant to start checking wires for shorts. He doesnt have a wiring diagram and cant find one online. I know little about cars and less about car wiring, so any help is very appreciated!! More info: -All fuses were checked by the mechanic and are good -Headlights work -Mechanic removed headlight switch and all four of those copper switch things move and get power -Mechanic also checked tail sockets for voltage, brake light side works but tail light side doesnt, he said. -Hazard lights work (besides front left) -Car battery is from 2014, has lower but okay voltage according to walmart battery test. One of the two O clamp things on the battery is cracked and I'm going to replace it. -Went to start car a couple mornings and battery was dead, but could start up immediately after jumper cables were connected -Dome light is out -Front left blinker is out -Dashlights just failed a couple days ago -Cigarette lighter doesn't convert power or heat up. This is important because I need to plug a converter in.
  9. Hey guys, I have a '98 Legacy Wagon that I'm trying to read some CEL codes from. The problem that I am finding is that the black connectors are not anywhere to be seen under the dash. Also, when I connect an OBDII reader, nothing happens. No power. I've checked all fuses. I've been searching the internet, and it appears that my OBD port isn't the same as everyone elses... I've attached pictures of what my OBD port looks like. Pin 16 is supposed to be the power lead, but I don't have a wire there. Any suggestions?
  10. Hello there, This is my first post to the forum and i'm hoping someone can help me. While installing a reversing camera and parking sensors in my Subaru Impreza 2012, I had to remove the small front right (drivers side) kick panel. While running the reversing camera wire, I found two unconnected wires, one male and one female connector, hanging close together. mauve?/white (male) and black/yellow (female) (see attached photo) Given their proximity and the fact that they would easily connect together, i'm wondering if they should be connected and have somehow come apart. I'm hoping some kind person with the necessary knowledge or a similar age vehicle can take the time to check and advise me if I should connect them or not. Thanking You John Wex
  11. I was working on my A/C system recently and I noticed this loose wire in my engine compartment. It ends in a metal loop and it's positioned near a screw hole in the engine compartment wall. (There are two views of the same spot in the image below - one with annotations and one without.) I can't imagine that normal driving would make a screw work itself all the way out. But I did have the clutch replaced a year ago and maybe the mechanic forgot to reconnect that wire when he put everything back together. But that would mean that I've been driving with the wire disconnected for the past year (without any noticeable problems). Questions: Is this a ground wire? Should I get a screw and (re-)connect the wire to that hole in the engine compartment wall? Part of me says that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But part of me says that the ground wire probably serves a safety function and I'm risking an electrical short or a fire if I leave it disconnected. What do you think?
  12. Hi all, I've posted this on nasioc but gotten nothing so far, so I figured i'd post here. I am almost done replacing the engine in my 2000 legacy outback wagon after an engine failure (metal scraping noises!) I have everything back but the thing won't start I have been troubleshooting all week after work and all day last Saturday but still haven't fixed the problem. Here is the full story.... After not getting a start I started doing the basic checks. Fuel, check. Injectors firing, check. Good battery, check. Timing(just did it during install) check. Crankshaft sensor test and replaced, check. While checking the spark I found that it was non-existant and or weak and inconsistent so I tested and swapped in a spare coil pack I had from the donor engine...no change. I tried checking power to the coil, that was good and did NOT dip during crank. I checked coil pack signal, I got some pulses but I do not have a good enough oscilloscope to really see what I was getting(OC is from the 50s...) After this I started reading through the FSM religiously I found some info about the crankshaft sensor which I know drives the timing for spark, which might explain my spark issues. So I went through the troubleshooting steps for that sensor. The sensor checked out via a resistance check, but I replaced it anyway simply to rule it out. Next, the manual said to check the wiring by unplugging the sensor and checking resistance to ground. Pin 1 (left most pin) is supposed to read between 10ohm and 100K ohm. I tested it at 90K ohm...so a little bit high. Pin 2, supposed to be < 10ohm to ground. Tested, 1.5k ohm. So bang out of tolerance. For this the FSM says to "In this case, repair the following: I Open circuit in harness between crankshaft position sensor and ECM connector I Poor contact in ECM connector I Poor contact in coupling connector (B21)" Going off this I figured it was best to isolate parts of the wiring and test them individually. So I tested E10 to E2 AKA the connector to the sensor that then runs to the gray connector that is on the intake manifold wiring said. This circuit checked out A-OK with both wires showing 0-ohm resistance from both ends. Next, I check the other side so B21 to B135 AKA bulkhead side wiring to ECM wiring(middle connector). This also checked out a-ok. After this, I deduced that it must be the connectors, so I connected everything back together, and unplugged both ends, ECM and sensor side (B135 and E10). Then I tested resistance from end to end and across the wires to make sure there was not a short. Again, everything checked out a-ok. At this point I was beyond stumped, I seemingly had checked everything and it still wasn't working. As soon as I would plug the wire back into the ECM my test results would be bad. I began trying different ground test points, start, battery, intake manifold, ECU housing, intake manifold. All tested the same or within the margin of error. I even checked the same measurements on a 04 legacy outback I have and the readings I got off that working car for the sensor wire to ground measurements were well within spec. By now I am pretty convinced that it is a ground issue so I look up all the ground points on the ECU as defined by the FSM. The only one that did not test 0 ohm to ground was ground on pin 6 of B135 ECM connector(middle orange for me). I got a reading of about 320ohm to ground which, is not high, but I think higher than it should be. I chased this wire using the FSM to pin 16 on B22(big brown connector engine bay) I tested from ECM to B22 and got about the same reading again. Which when you think about it is actually interesting. Why between two points that are "supposed" to be directly connected is there the same resistance as there is to ground...that's weird! I started digging through the FSM again checking the wiring diagrams and finding all the places this wire connect. According to the FSM I have this wire connects to the, fuel gauge sub-module, neutral position switch, vehicle speed sensor, check connector, and data link connector. That is where I am now, I'm trying to identify all the places it runs and start testing parts of the circuit. But, I figured it was finally time to ask a question on a forum or two and see what you guys think. Am I missing something super obvious? Any tips for tracking this issue down? The weird thing about this is that the car ran before I pulled the engine and dropped in a new one. I started the process about 3 months ago, and have been slowly working on it till now. During the swap I made sure to keep my intake manifold, and crankshaft pulley. It was an auto to manual swap so there was actually quite a few parts to switch over...so maybe I missed something? ANY help would be truly appreciated, below is a link to the relevant sections FSM if anyone wants to take a look and double check my findings. I am reallllly stumped at this point. FSM: Look at engine sections for crankshaft sensor testing and Wiring diagram for plug locations and wiring diagrams. https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UE&usp=sharing P.S. Hopefully it didnt take you as long to read this as it did for me to write it!
  13. Hi, I know this question has been asked a lot on this forum however I aim to do as much research as possible into everything I do so I get it right the first time. I am on a fairly tight budget and would like to know a few things. 1. Will I be able to use the ej18 intake runners on the ej22 P2 block to get it to work 2. Will I be able to use the ej18 flywheel and clutch on the ej22 for the time being 3. Will the transmissions bolt up or will I need to install a different transmission 4 can I just get rid of the knock sensor and it (ej22) run fine Kind regards~Abid
  14. Hi Guys, I have a 1990 Liberty that's just started having an odd problem. The high beam light on the dash (that little blue one) has seemingly stopped working. Nothing has recently been installed, or changed. The high beams still work and nothing else dims or stops working. I can't seem to figure out whats happened to it. There also doesn't seem to be a light specifically for it on the back of the cluster? Hopefully somebody will know or have ideas of where to look?? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  15. Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
  16. So I recently took my car into the shop to have the fenders shaved and new fenders put on so I can fit wider tires. The car came back with the battery indicator light on. SO my best assumption is that a wire was cut during the shaving process. The car runs fine if it has jump leads connected to another car but once I remove the leads after about a minute later (when the juice runs out in the battery) the car shuts off. I assumed this was an alternator problem but after replacing that with a brand new one the issue was still occurring. So I replaced the battery, but the battery indicator light is still on so no/not enough power is getting from the alternator to the battery. Ive contacted the shop that did the work complaining that they must have down something but they are refusing to help. So what I thought about doing (as a temporary solution) was to run a large cable between the alternator and the battery. Is this be just a completely ridiculous idea that's going to short out my system or could this be a temporary solution. If it is a solution, should I put some kind of fuses between them or not? I am fairly uneducated when it comes to the electronics in a car so any help would be much appreciated. Thank you, Keon
  17. Looking for a wiring diagram for 94 impreza awd for my hopefully soon ej18 swap. Can only find the RHD fsm online. Anyone know where I can find one?
  18. OK- so I finally got my 1987 BRAT (big blue) running good and hooked up with a working alternator from a 94 pathfinder (seen here) and I've still got a few wiring issues and would really appreciate some help figuring them out! Problem 1: Fuel sender wire got burnt off during some welding, does anyone know where the 2 wires come out of the cab from? Wanna just take them back on a set of new wires anyway, stuff on the rear end isn't too pretty. Problem 2: Does anyone know where the power wire for the Dash/Heater control back lighting is? Power to those are out, while the headlights and stuff all work. Minor problem: The dash voltmeter ALWAYS reads full volts, no matter what. Even if the battery is pretty much dead, it just pegs itself at maximum voltage++ Thanks in advance- I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel with by BRAT. -CL
  19. My legacy brighton doesn't have a tachometer. So I went to pick and pull and pulled a cluster out from another vehicle with a tachometer. I installed it and everything seemed to go okay until I drove home and had no speedometer. So I pulled my old speedometer out (thinking it was a loose connection in the back) and switched it with my new one. The speedo worked but now the tach did not. I'm wondering what the problem is with the wiring? Do I need to wire the tach through the speedo? Or should I try putting the tach in my old cluster?
  20. Thanks for reading! I replaced the light bulbs in my instrument cluster (speedometer) today, and I noticed a wire harness (male end) pretty much right next to my rear defrost button, which is located on the dash just to the right of the ignition. It appears to be the same size and type of harness plug that the rear defrost uses, however, it is a yellow-brownish color, rather than white like the defrost. (I can only assume that was done purposely to be able to tell which was which) There is no button on the dash besides the rear defrost, and I was unable to find a factory service manual anywhere locally. Does anyone happen to have an e copy of the wiring diagram, or even know off the top of their head what this might have once powered, or can power? If possible, I would like to utilize the plug by adding a switch on the dash, which would control the fog lights I have yet to install.
  21. I am swapping cruise control into an '01 Legacy L / Brighton, and I need some help troubleshooting the completed install. What I've done so far: - Install cruise main switch, steering wheel controls, actuator and cruise computer - Wire cruise actuator through firewall to cruise computer - Wire cruise computer to all respective wires in the vehicle according to the wiring diagram (this was quite a procedure) - Wired in new 4-wire brake and clutch pedal switches and confirmed it has continuity when no pedals are pressed - Tested and verified all switches, bulbs, ignition power sources, etc - Then I plugged in the cruise module and tried it out, and the light on the cruise control main switch will not come on when I press it (I'm assuming it means 'enable the cruise system'). - I have checked fuse 18 and 15, and backprobed all points from the switch and the bulbs to check that the module genuinely isn't responding, but is otherwise powered. My issue is as follows: The cruise enable switch on the dash does not light up when pressed. Bulb works, switch works, power goes to the cruise module, what else do I check?? UPDATE The cruise module wasn't enabling because the sub-switch output to pin 10 of the cruise module was wired at connector B68 by wire-color and not by pin number. On my particular vehicle (Legacy Brighton L), the wire colors on the steering-wheel side of that harness are incorrect and/or mislabeled in either the vehicle or the wiring diagram. Doing this by pin number means that the cruise module now powers on, and the correct 12v signal is seen at the module when the set, resume and cancel buttons are operated, respectively. The issue now is that it will not set cruise, when driving over 40km/h - the switches do not do anything. I need to troubleshoot whether something is inhibiting the cruise system from setting, or whether it is trying to set the cruise, but the actuator is not working. Any ideas are welcome. Please let me know what you guys think is the best next-step to take to get this working. Some photos of the progress Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5
  22. I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
  23. Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.
  24. Hello, I got an 84 brat and it ran awesome, however within 2 days the fuel pump went "out" replace it and still nothing. So a kid my age had it before the owner I got it from and kind of messed with it all. I'd like to rewire is so I know the pump is betting proper voltage and everything. Does anyone live in Vegas or near that would possible help or just schematics for a good rewiring. Also any other help for a restore would be helpful. This will be my first restore. V/R
  25. Hello people, I'm -finally- putting together my '01 Legacy L summer project, which I started too long ago. So long ago, in fact, that I forgot one or two things already :/ Among those things is where the ground wires/straps go on the engine. I know there are at least two of them: one going from the firewall to the engine (intake?), and one on the passenger-side suspension tower that probably goes directly to the block. But where? Thanks!
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