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Found 58 results

  1. Hi, I recently replaced the heater core in my 2001 Forester L. Everything basically went to plan, but I'm having some issues. 1. There are several trouble codes: P0500 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction P1540 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction 2 P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input P1518 Starter switch circuit low input P0512 Starter switch circuit high input P0316 Misfire Occurred in the First 1000 Engine Revolutions 2. The gauge cluster is acting strange. Normally the lights behave but once I turn on the headlights only some of the gauges are lit and the backlights for the LCD displays turn off. I've inspected the wiring a bunch of times. I went to a salvage yard and tore into the dashes of 3 foresters to make some detailed comparisons. Took a ton of pictures. Long story short, I'm pretty sure the wiring in my Forester was properly connected. I checked the fuses and they are fine. There are two connectors I can't seem to find mates for. There's a single black wire that attaches to something somewhere around the cigarette lighter I can't find a mate for. In the same location there's a connector with 3 prongs in the same area I can't find a connection to. I have the cig lighter and whatnot properly wired up, though. I'm pretty stumped and any advice is appreciated. The service manual I've been reading is clear as mud as far where components are in the car that I can test. Any guidance with any of this is massively appreciated. The car otherwise runs and drives seemingly fine. TIA
  2. Brianmitchtay

    Fan Speeds

    Howdy all, recently my ventilation system started only blowing when the knob is turned to 4, so it's full blast or nothing these days. Anyone else seen this before? Browsing the forums I've seen some people run into this with the Legacy and they mention a wire or switch below/behind the dash, but I can't find anything similar on my GL
  3. Hello, everyone. I'm newly registered to this site and have an odd one to request some insights into: [*]One low beam bulb (9005) does not work. Swapped sides with the correct (and working), matching low beam bulb and the original side still did not work. Brand new bulb tried on both sides to verify as the same. [*]All fuses were intact and the lighting-related fuses were checked for continuity and swapped around. No change. [*]Swapped the high/low relays from one side to the other. No change. [*]No power to the side not working but that's sort of to be expected from the diagnosis. No visible corrosion or breaks in wires. [*]Front running, fog and turn signal lights all work. Here's where it gets stranger: [*]No high beams on either side. New bulbs (H11). All fuses/relays swapped with no change. [*]High beam indicator light on the dash works when the lights are flashed or set to "on" (forward and back positions on the switch handle). [*]Cycling through the lighting options/positions on the switch works (minus the dead low beam and both high beams). All of this occurred at once. My wife claims to have heard some sort of "pop" sound but didn't think much of it. I'm getting to wit's end as this just doesn't make sense. I'm going to retest everything with my multimeter up and down the wiring harness but that's the last thing I can think of short of not driving it at night. Thanks for any help you may be able to offer. -CMA
  4. Hello everyone, My first time over here. I have had my 2000 subaru legacy GT for almost a year now and there has been a huge problem that i cant find an answer for. everytime i think ive found it i find something else. ill get right down to it and hopefully someone on here could give me a hand. i would really appreciate it. in the car i have the battery light and the handbrake light on. my DRLs never worked and neither did my fog lights. now tonight i was outside playing with it once again and realized that everything works fine once i unplug the 3pin connector from the alternator. so the car is running off the battery. drls come on, fog lights work, and bat/ebrake light turns off. and STAYS OFF. once i replug the alternator back on the drls shut off and everything is back the way it was. ive tested the alternator and its charging at a constant 14.10V and the battery always stays at 12.30V and remember the car has been this way since i got it almost a year ago. if the alternator was really dead or overcharging i wouldnt have made it all through the winter dailying it lol. im really stumped with what it could be .. ive tested every thing all the way down to the ebrake switch and fog light switch (before i discovered the alternator plug). If anyone knows whats up id really appreciate the info. i dont have the money to dump into an alternator at the moment so i really hope that there is a way to fix this issue as it would suck to throw away a working alternator.
  5. I have a 97 legacy that has no electrical power. No lights windows or any other circuits work. Battery tested good. My ground cables have a resistance of .5 amps and im getting power to my starter as well as my fuse box. I checked the fusable link and it seems fine. What main source of power can i check post fuse box? Any hidden fusable links or major relays, fuses i can check? Im tracing wires now but i was hoping someone can give me some guidance
  6. So I have a weird issue that I just can't for the life of me figure out. I bought my '92 Loyale a few months ago. 118k miles, and I had been driving it regularly. It got cold a few weeks ago and when I tried to start it I could hear what I think is the fuel pump (not sure that's what it is), but when I tried starting the car it wouldn't turn over the starter (I could hear the relay click). Not a weak battery sound (not the "click click click") just nothing at all. The next day it was warmer and started right up. A few days after that I got in to try to start it up and as soon as I switch the car to "on" I get a complete power loss. Dome light and dash lights go out. If I wait 5-10 minutes I'll get my dome light back. I've checked the batter and I get 12V+ on the terminals. I've tried hooking up my battery box (that will start my 4.0L Jeep that currently doesn't have a battery without an issue), but the extra juice doesn't do anything. We had a 50 degree day here recently, and I thought maybe my issue was temperature dependent, but even on that day it presented the same issue. I'm at a total loss here as to what could be wrong. I'm not even sure what to check next! Any thoughts as to what I could check to try to diagnose what is happening? The fact that I eventually get enough power back to run the dome light confuses me. Something gets energized which causes the problem, and it must eventually get discharged which allows power to return to things like the dome light. My thoughts: 1) Bad battery (internal components), so even though it reads the proper voltage something else is wrong once there's a draw on the battery 2) Bad alternator, somehow gets energized and shorts out the electrical? 3) Bad starter? I doubt this because it happens even though I don't even try to start the car? 4) Bad ECU?
  7. Hello, Back ground info: I have a 1994 Legacy Wagon. 2.2L, AWD, NA, 200,000 + miles. Conditions: 25 degrees for the past month. Snow on the ground. Recently replaced the Alternator. -- Problem -- Today I started my Legacy and it fired up like always. I drove about 3 miles. Motor warmed up like it should. All was running normally. I pulled into a gas station and filled my tank. Back out on the road, the motor began to run poorly. I could not accelerate, the motor lacked power. The check engine light NEVER came on. As I drove forward the car seemed to buck back and forth, yet the tach remained at a set RPM. Back home, I looked the car over. The car would run and Idle. The exhaust smelled sort of sour. There were some sounds of a miss fire. The motor did not bounce or vibrate as if to be running on 3 plugs. I could rev the motor up to 3K with no complaint. I let the motor cool. Then tried to drive it down the street. The problem had not gone away. Now, the motor will not fire up. When I turn the key to the RUN position, 3 seconds after I get a wild relay clicking sound coming from under the hood. While this sound is happening the fuel line going from the fuel filter to the motor (injectors) is pulsating to match. BUT, the lines coming from the fuel tank are not pulsing. Also, the check engine light comes on and matches the relays click sounds. And the tach needle bounces wildly. The motor will turn over but will not fire up now. I mentioned that I'd changed the alternator, just in case someone might have a connection. I changed the alternator two weeks ago and the car has run perfect since them. Also the cold weather has been on the ground here for the past month or so. I recall replacing the alternator in an icy cold wind storm. The pulsing fuel line from the motor to the fuel filter is a good clue. But I cant find any relay in the area that matches the clicks. I've felt the injectors and they are not making any sound or movement. If you might have a hint, please send it my way. Thanks for reading this. Rog
  8. So this is going to be kinda weird and may take a special type of person to want to help solve. Everything I am interested in getting further input on is from a 1991 subaru legacy....it just so happens to live in a 1983 VW vanagon. I Purchased this van with a 2.2L Subaru swap by Kennedy Engineering. Drove van from Sacramento to San Diego. Did a trip to Nevada, then the van began to have idling issues and when I went to replace the IAC valve, found oil in the intake. Turns out the rings were toast on the old engine. Took it to S&S performance and they put in a new engine. The engine is the only thing that was new. The wiring harness, ecu, intake, exhaust, and all sensors were from the old engine. After a couple weeks of driving the van, the idling issues came back. This is what I am trying to diagnose/fix. Symptoms · New engine ran perfectly for 450 miles · Rough idle developed · Cylinder 1& 2 not firing · Code 24 displaying on OBDI readout o Code for IAC valve New/recently serviced items · New motor from S&S performance o 450 miles on engine · New IAC valve · New TPS sensor · Recently serviced injectors o Done to see if injectors being clogged was the problem o 3 serviced, calibrated flow rates o 1 new o All OEM injectors for 1990-1991 manual Subaru Legacy Diagnosing · Injector #1 and #2 not pulsing o No ticking when listening for pulse with long rod o Injector #3 and #4 can be heard ticking from same test · Swapped connectors from injector #1 à injector #3 and injector #2 à injector #4 o Result: injector #1 and injector #2 began pulsing, injector #3 and injector #4 stopped pulsing. Engine ran worse from only getting power from two improperly timed cylinders. · With ignition ON, measured voltage at (+) ECUterminal for each injector o Result: § Injector 1: 12V (connector F47.13) § Injector 2: 12V (connector F47.12) § Injector 3: 12V (connector F47.11) § Injector 4: 12V (connector F47.26) · With ignition ON, disconnected injector connectors, measured voltage at (+) ECU terminal for each injector o Result: § Injector 1: 0.35V (connector F47.13) § Injector 2: 0.45V (connector F47.12) § Injector 3: 0.0V (connector F47.11) § Injector 4: 0.25V (connector F47.26) · Check Continuity between (+) wires for each injector from ECU pin to injector (+) terminal o Result: § Injector 1: Continuity (connector F47.13) § Injector 2: Continuity (connector F47.12) § Injector 3: Continuity (connector F47.11) § Injector 4: Continuity (connector F47.26) · Check continuity between ground wires for each injector and common ECU ground pin o NOTE: Seems the previous owner or someone had modified ECU. All injectors ground to one pin on the ECU, rather than the way it was originally designed where the injectors had two ground pins. The pin they are all connected to now was originally for the “Backup Power Supply” o Result: § Injector 1: Continuity (connector B48.15) § Injector 2: Continuity (connector B48.15) § Injector 3: Continuity (connector B48.15) § Injector 4: Continuity (connector B48.15) What I think may be the case: · Bad crank or cam sensor causing ECU not to pulse injector #1 and #2 · Faulty ECU Would anyone have any insight on this by any chance?? Any input would be greatly appreciated!
  9. Hello, I've bought a damaged Forester XT Premium 2015 and I'm starting the recovery process. While I'm waiting for the body parts I'm focusing in putting the engine to run. First I sent the car to an mechanic and he told me that the engine ecu is not responding, because his scanner wasn't able to connect to the vehicle to read any fault codes. After that I sent the vehicle to the Subaru dealership and they confirmed that the ecu is damaged and needs to be replaced. I think that diagnostic is weird, because the crash didn't affect much the engine or any electronic parts. Does anyone know about something that might be 'blocking' the access to the ecu, maybe due to the crash? Something like the air bag system blocking the engine or something? The dealership is asking me $2000 for a new ECU, while I found an used for around $600. Is it possible to just replace the original ECU by a similar from another car? Is there any kind of locks, keys, passwords or something that might block the communication between the ECUs? Regarding the ECU partnumbers, mine is: 22765AH011, while the used I found is 22765AH010. All the other parts I found in the stores are not equal, but similar partnumbers: 22765AG970, 22765AG973, 22765AH510. http://parts.subaru.com/ http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/oem-subaru-parts.html Are all these ECUs the same, but with different 'software versions'? Is it possible to know if they are compatible? All of them are for the same vehicle version: Forester XT Premium 2015. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment!!
  10. Hi! No Electrics other than door ding, baja wont start with new battery? Help? Any ideas? thx Bajababe
  11. My Forester has a P0327 code. I checked the voltage on the shielded wire coming from the wiring harness to the sensor and it is 0.01 volts, not 2.5 or 5 volts. We have a recurring problem with pack rats getting into the engine compartment. I kill them within a day of discovery, but they do a lot of damage just overnight. The wire coming out from the ECU/ wire harness to the knock sensor pigtail has several rat bites in it, so I assume the 0.01 volt reading is due to another cut in the wire somewhere upstream of where I found the cuts. The harness is very tight and seems largely inaccessible from the knock sensor back toward the firewall, so was thinking of adding a new wire back to the knock sensor from closer to the ECU. Any thoughts or suggestions about adding a new shielded wire? The car has 176,000 miles and runs great, I've owned the car since it was new. The Subaru dealer suggested not worrying about it, but if I can get the sensor working again and get rid of the check engine light without completely disassembling the engine to get to the whole wiring harness, I'd like to fix it. Thanks.
  12. I was working on my A/C system recently and I noticed this loose wire in my engine compartment. It ends in a metal loop and it's positioned near a screw hole in the engine compartment wall. (There are two views of the same spot in the image below - one with annotations and one without.) I can't imagine that normal driving would make a screw work itself all the way out. But I did have the clutch replaced a year ago and maybe the mechanic forgot to reconnect that wire when he put everything back together. But that would mean that I've been driving with the wire disconnected for the past year (without any noticeable problems). Questions: Is this a ground wire? Should I get a screw and (re-)connect the wire to that hole in the engine compartment wall? Part of me says that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But part of me says that the ground wire probably serves a safety function and I'm risking an electrical short or a fire if I leave it disconnected. What do you think?
  13. Hi all, I've posted this on nasioc but gotten nothing so far, so I figured i'd post here. I am almost done replacing the engine in my 2000 legacy outback wagon after an engine failure (metal scraping noises!) I have everything back but the thing won't start I have been troubleshooting all week after work and all day last Saturday but still haven't fixed the problem. Here is the full story.... After not getting a start I started doing the basic checks. Fuel, check. Injectors firing, check. Good battery, check. Timing(just did it during install) check. Crankshaft sensor test and replaced, check. While checking the spark I found that it was non-existant and or weak and inconsistent so I tested and swapped in a spare coil pack I had from the donor engine...no change. I tried checking power to the coil, that was good and did NOT dip during crank. I checked coil pack signal, I got some pulses but I do not have a good enough oscilloscope to really see what I was getting(OC is from the 50s...) After this I started reading through the FSM religiously I found some info about the crankshaft sensor which I know drives the timing for spark, which might explain my spark issues. So I went through the troubleshooting steps for that sensor. The sensor checked out via a resistance check, but I replaced it anyway simply to rule it out. Next, the manual said to check the wiring by unplugging the sensor and checking resistance to ground. Pin 1 (left most pin) is supposed to read between 10ohm and 100K ohm. I tested it at 90K ohm...so a little bit high. Pin 2, supposed to be < 10ohm to ground. Tested, 1.5k ohm. So bang out of tolerance. For this the FSM says to "In this case, repair the following: I Open circuit in harness between crankshaft position sensor and ECM connector I Poor contact in ECM connector I Poor contact in coupling connector (B21)" Going off this I figured it was best to isolate parts of the wiring and test them individually. So I tested E10 to E2 AKA the connector to the sensor that then runs to the gray connector that is on the intake manifold wiring said. This circuit checked out A-OK with both wires showing 0-ohm resistance from both ends. Next, I check the other side so B21 to B135 AKA bulkhead side wiring to ECM wiring(middle connector). This also checked out a-ok. After this, I deduced that it must be the connectors, so I connected everything back together, and unplugged both ends, ECM and sensor side (B135 and E10). Then I tested resistance from end to end and across the wires to make sure there was not a short. Again, everything checked out a-ok. At this point I was beyond stumped, I seemingly had checked everything and it still wasn't working. As soon as I would plug the wire back into the ECM my test results would be bad. I began trying different ground test points, start, battery, intake manifold, ECU housing, intake manifold. All tested the same or within the margin of error. I even checked the same measurements on a 04 legacy outback I have and the readings I got off that working car for the sensor wire to ground measurements were well within spec. By now I am pretty convinced that it is a ground issue so I look up all the ground points on the ECU as defined by the FSM. The only one that did not test 0 ohm to ground was ground on pin 6 of B135 ECM connector(middle orange for me). I got a reading of about 320ohm to ground which, is not high, but I think higher than it should be. I chased this wire using the FSM to pin 16 on B22(big brown connector engine bay) I tested from ECM to B22 and got about the same reading again. Which when you think about it is actually interesting. Why between two points that are "supposed" to be directly connected is there the same resistance as there is to ground...that's weird! I started digging through the FSM again checking the wiring diagrams and finding all the places this wire connect. According to the FSM I have this wire connects to the, fuel gauge sub-module, neutral position switch, vehicle speed sensor, check connector, and data link connector. That is where I am now, I'm trying to identify all the places it runs and start testing parts of the circuit. But, I figured it was finally time to ask a question on a forum or two and see what you guys think. Am I missing something super obvious? Any tips for tracking this issue down? The weird thing about this is that the car ran before I pulled the engine and dropped in a new one. I started the process about 3 months ago, and have been slowly working on it till now. During the swap I made sure to keep my intake manifold, and crankshaft pulley. It was an auto to manual swap so there was actually quite a few parts to switch over...so maybe I missed something? ANY help would be truly appreciated, below is a link to the relevant sections FSM if anyone wants to take a look and double check my findings. I am reallllly stumped at this point. FSM: Look at engine sections for crankshaft sensor testing and Wiring diagram for plug locations and wiring diagrams. https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UE&usp=sharing P.S. Hopefully it didnt take you as long to read this as it did for me to write it!
  14. Hello all - 1996 Legacy L sedan with 218,000 miles and an IN-CAR head gasket job completed last month (oh my back! ). Car has been running through 2 tanks of gas with no problems. During mile 38 on 40 mile freeway drive at 2:30am, the electrical system on the car suddenly shut down and I coasted the car to a stop on the road shoulder. Hazard blinkers were functional, along with interior lights and power locks. High beams would turn on brightly, but since the headlights/parking lights are tied to the ignition, these were not operable. I could only conduct a few quick checks roadside: - bang on fuel pump - directly since I took the access plate in the trunk off. Done this routine before on several cars . - check tight battery connections - recently cleaned during head gasket replacement last month - this was fine. - timing belt intact - all fuses in engine bay and under dash continuity checked ok - starter cranked the engine, but the engine simply would not start Then the car got towed home the last 2 miles of my intended drive. Fortunately a flatbed tow truck showed up in 10 min via AAA and I was home only 30min after the mess. - I had to help the tow truck driver get into the shifter plate to manually override the shifter interlock so he could put the car in neutral. With the key-On position, the solenoid for the shifter interlock would not move......no elec power going to it. I have since conducted these tests: - battery voltage in good standing is 12.65V - alternator removed, tested and passed - ohmed out coil pack - pass. No burn throughs. - grounds confirmed good - removed and cleaned again anyway - checked all fuses and the main fusible link with ohm-meter - none blown - pulled and checked all engine connector harnesses (bell housing, MAF, igniter, ECM under the passenger floor). - checked continuity on all positions of the ignition switch - pass. Getting 12V to the backside of the switch by probing the solder points. - pulled and cleaned crank and cam position sensors - not much interesting there. Here's the fun part : - none of the warning lights on the dash will light in the Key-On position - this is what I find very disturbing. . - Starter/solenoid happily cranks the engine, but won't start. I have experienced bad start contacts before - this isn't the what is going on here) - cannot read ANY CEL codes because there is no power to the ECU when Key-On - fuel pump will not turn (can't hear a click from the pump relay anyway) - shifter interlock still not operable because of no power going to its solenoid - tied to ignition key-on. I could start changing out crank/cam position sensors, coolant temp sensor, MAF, etc.....but none of these single point items can easily explain why the entire power circuit is not operating. Even if the ECU died, I should still get direct power up to it. In looking at the wiring diagrams, I am thinking the ignition relay (the brown, really-hard-to-reach-one under the dash) might have conked out. This is the only way I can think of that I can still crank the starter, but hot have any electrical controls that drive the fuel pump, the warning lights, and the ECU. I'm going to attempt to get at the ignition relay today to pull and test it - that will take me all morning and lots of scrapes on arms. Any other suggestions are most welcome as I try to figure this out.
  15. Ok, slight annoyance. So, I hopped into the monster tonight, to go get some chocolate milk down at the AMPM. I was Craving it, don't ask me why. I get her cranked and turned the light switch and NUFFIN'. The lights marking the light and wiper switches were on, the lights for the heater/fans came up, headlights came up, but no instrument lights. The Left Turn Indicator light has been acting up, not coming on, that kind of thing. But, now, the blasted instrument lights are Kaput. Any ideas, before I start pulling things apart and cursing under my breath?
  16. So previously i had some headlight and blinker issues, and after taking 'grumpy car', as ive dubbed it, to a subaru dealer, they told me theres a short in the wiring harness and didnt fix anything. Yet somehow havent had blinker problems since. Anyways fastforward 3 months to now, my headlights completely stopped working, along with the horn, hazards (blinkers still functional), cooling fans and memory power for the dash clock. Did a fuse blow or a wire come loose or hopefully not some carestrophic short? From what ive seen any fuses i know of are still good, so im a little baffled
  17. So I got a new battery after I had my old one tested at Auto Zone and they said it was bad. New battery is good and worked fine, but after three days I went to start it and I got nothing that time. It can't be the starter cuz that is new too, I had it put in some months back and didn't even run the car that much, plus I had my brother tap it while I tried to start car and still nothing. Anybody got any idea? Could it be the alternator?
  18. 1986 GL 1.8L 2 Door Hatchback - EA21 Car starts fine. When I turn the ignition switch to the 'Acc' position (Maybe 'on' it's dark out.) I'm hearing a steady clicking sound. I don't notice it when the engine is running, but the sound of the engine could mask it. I traced it for a bit and it seems to be coming from just behind center towards the rear of the vehicle, centered somewhere near the drive-line or so. Just curious as to what this could be, I'm assuming it's not supposed to be there, as the engine isn't even running (not to mention it's a clicking sound). I'm not even sure of anything electrical in that area. Are there relays under the rear seats somewhere? Thanks for any help, prior.
  19. Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
  20. Hi everyone, It has been years since I posted anything here, given that we traded our venerable 1996 Outback in on a 2014 model a couple of years back, and I had gotten to the point where I knew just about all there was to know about that old car. But now I'm presented with a new problem, and I'm feeling kind of ignorant all of a sudden. My daughter recently acquired a 2002 Outback H6 VDC sedan, and recently (after a turn signal bulb change) neither the turn signals nor most of the indicators on the instrument cluster are working. I downloaded a service manual for the new old beast, and dutifully traced my way through the wiring, fuses and switches to the point where I'm 90% certain that the Ignition Relay is the culprit, but I can't find it on the vehicle. The manual makes reference to a "relay block" where a number of similar relays seem to be aggregated, but for the life of me I can't find that anywhere. Can one of you guys enlighten me - where can I find the "Ignition Relay" in this H6 VDC? Gracias in advance!
  21. So I am new here today and I will start by saying I have good mechanical skills and I hate cars. I got married in December and with that came a step-daughter with 1998 outback approaching 300K(she bought it about a year ago). I know nothing about Subaru. I have replaced the clutch and associated hardware in the car. I apologize for the length of this post She called me a little over a month ago to rescue her from a parking lot. I found that the alternator on her car was not charging. I charged her up and ordered a new alternator. She drove the car for two days charging the battery and then taking the short drive to work. On the second day when she was going to bring me the car she called to say it would not start. I drove to her and installed the alternator while charging the battery. After installing the alternator I tried to crank the car over, it cranked but would not start. I checked the spark and it was good, so I started checking fuel, no books, no drawings. I tried to hear the fuel pump but nothing. Now is where it gets weird to me. I stopped to remove a fuel line and check for any sign of pressure or flow and then tried to crank again, nothing....I load checked the battery and it was solid. I went looking for fuses and found none. Did not know where to find fuel relay but that did not matter as the electrical was not getting to the starter solenoid. As the sun was setting I decided to have it towed to my house. The next morning before I left for work I tried it and it started right up. I left a message for the daughter to try it later and she did and it started. She drove it around for a day and the next day she went out and it did nothing again, no crank. That night it cranked but did not start. I found online some information and went in search of the fuel pump. Testing showed voltage on the blue/yellow wire, so I ordered a fuel pump. Her brother and a mechanic friend installed the fuel pump while I was away and it ran fine. 3-4 days later, turn the key no crank. Her mechanic friend said it needed a starter, I disagreed and checked the starter with a remote start switch. All fine there. Next morning it cranked and she drove the car for a couple of weeks with no problem. Monday of this week she drove the car home from work said she was having what sounded like fuel issues to me. She tried to restart it and it would not start. I checked the blue/yellow wire thinking the new pump might be crap and found no voltage. Went and bought a Haynes and looked for answers. I now know where the fuel relay is but i have not dug it out yet as I have not had time. Went out this afternoon and wanted to recheck voltage to pump. Had my wife depress the clutch and hold it down I had her crank it a couple of times. I had her hold the clutch to the floor to try to eliminate a neutral start switch. Without ever letting off the clutch, after 6-7 times cranking, tried to crank again and nothing there. I had it hooked to a battery charger the whole time. Any of this make sense to any of you dear readers? I could use some advice, I noticed when I started to dig for the fuel relay that Subaru's have lots of wires and switch and boxes. Last item. As I was closing up the car I heard a relay clicking on and off. It was flashing the four ways but at half speed of what the 4 way button flashes them. I move the blinker control and it stopped for about 10 second and started again. The daughter has mentioned that sometimes when she parks the car the lights do strange things. Would this have anything to do with the anti theft device? I locked the car up and retreated up to my home office, they were still flashing and then just stopped. Help please
  22. I have a 2003 Outback and suddenly all of my instrument panel lights have gone out (except odometer light and PRNDL light). Along with these, the bright headlights do not work with the bright on switch when pushed forward, but do work when switch is pulled to flash them. The fog lights aren't working (but I honestly don't know if that has anything connected, as I never use them anyway). The over head light comes on with door opening and by using the light switch itself, but does not come on with the dash dimmer switch. I've checked the fuses and all is well. Any ideas of a source to begin my probing? Thanks
  23. The horn in my red 1986 Subaru GL wagon has never worked, ever since I purchased it years ago. I have put up with it for a while, but the need to... communicate... with other drivers is no longer able to be ignored. I have checked fuses: They are in good order. I have not dug into the wiring too much: However everything appears to be plugged in as it should. I took apart the steering wheel's horn button/pad: I did not see anything out of the ordinary, and it appears the horn pad makes contact as it should. Taking the horn wire that comes out of the hub and grounding it to metal does nothing. In other cars I have tried this on, it would make the horn sound. The only thing I sourced up from searching was this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18736-two-problems-with-subaru-leone-1800-gl/ thealleyboy and MilesFox's posts in that thread were most helpful to my case, but only a tad. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Here is a pic of my wheel for reference: Thank you in advance for any advice.
  24. Thanks for reading! I replaced the light bulbs in my instrument cluster (speedometer) today, and I noticed a wire harness (male end) pretty much right next to my rear defrost button, which is located on the dash just to the right of the ignition. It appears to be the same size and type of harness plug that the rear defrost uses, however, it is a yellow-brownish color, rather than white like the defrost. (I can only assume that was done purposely to be able to tell which was which) There is no button on the dash besides the rear defrost, and I was unable to find a factory service manual anywhere locally. Does anyone happen to have an e copy of the wiring diagram, or even know off the top of their head what this might have once powered, or can power? If possible, I would like to utilize the plug by adding a switch on the dash, which would control the fog lights I have yet to install.
  25. I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost