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1986 GL 1.8L 2 Door Hatchback - EA21 Car starts fine. When I turn the ignition switch to the 'Acc' position (Maybe 'on' it's dark out.) I'm hearing a steady clicking sound. I don't notice it when the engine is running, but the sound of the engine could mask it. I traced it for a bit and it seems to be coming from just behind center towards the rear of the vehicle, centered somewhere near the drive-line or so. Just curious as to what this could be, I'm assuming it's not supposed to be there, as the engine isn't even running (not to mention it's a clicking sound). I'm not even sure of anything electrical in that area. Are there relays under the rear seats somewhere? Thanks for any help, prior.
subbybot posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...So I have had a recurring problem with my 1990 loyale not wanting to start. It was intermittent but got worse as time went on. Symptom: When car was hot or from a cold start, when I turned the key I would hear a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment. I would turn the key over and over again until it would finally turn over (sometimes it would take 50 times!). Car would run fine after starting. Attempts to Fix: Replaced coolant temperature sensor: A lot of posts on these causing hot starting issues. Did not fix the problem. Replaced starter: nope. Cleaned all battery connections and connections to starter: didn't fix problem Changed out battery and replaced with new one: still had same issues Actual Fix: After reading up on the USMB forums and on other toyota forums I discovered that the early Subarus do not have starter relays. As the wiring gets older and more worn out, the power going to the starter diminishes. The fix is to put a relay in between the starter and the ignition. Some people recommend buying a cheap headlight relay and wiring it in yourself. You can look up starter relay or ignition relay yourself to find instructions. Not being a mechanic myself, I chose this kit: Bosch WR1 Starter Relay Kit http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR1-Starter-Relay/dp/B001COAX78 The kit comes with a relay, all the wires, and easy to follow instructions including a wiring diagram. It took me 20 minutes to wire up and made the whole process a breeze. Mystery Solved! Starts up without hesitation. For $25.00 this was a cheap and painless fix (once I figured out the actual problem) Hope this helps some of my fellow vintage sub owners. Peace!
Hey guys. I'm pretty sure I know the problem but wanted a 2nd or 3rd opinion before I spend more money on the problem. 1983 Brat. Past month or so, it would sometimes not start right up, just a clicking sound. If I turned it a few times, it would start up. It's been getting worse and now I have to turn it like 50 times. It hasn't let me down yet and sometimes it gets a little juice and tries to start but then doesn't and goes back to the clicking. When I was doing tune up a few months ago, I noticed that Ignition coil was seeping some oil and my battery cables were mangled. So, I bought new ones and put those in this weekend (thinking mabye it was some bad connections) I also took a wire brush to the connection to the starter itself. Still the same problem. I know the battery and alternator are good, now I've got good connections but still just get the clicking and it's getting worse. I read through the forums that I could find and one question that came up is if the clicking is coming from the Dash area, or from the Engine bay. I'm pretty certain it's coming from the Bay. So, I think it's the starter?? Anyone else have any input? I'm new to working on my own cars so please give detailed troubleshooting steps if needed. Also, any recommendations on Starters?? It's a Fuji in there now and I can't seem to find a replacement Fuji. Thanks, guys.
I am completely lost... went to Advance and had it put on the computer and was told it was an O2 sensor, changed, pulling out and push the gas and pull out at 5mph regardless of how much gas I give it. Suspected throttle position sensor since Advance now says they can't check the codes cause it wasn't hooking up. We buy our own code machine and check again and get that the knock sensor needs changed, husband tries to drive it to see if the TPS is fixed and AWD locks down and there's a clicking noise he feels is the acuator now. This just seems like a total spiral to the death of this car and it's just under 150,000 miles! HELP!!!