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Vehicles

Found 8 results

  1. 2003 Impreza Outback Sport 5 speed I recently bought the car and it’s really fun to drive! Some noise coming from the rear end area above 30mph got me thinking I should look at the rear drive shaft universal joints and carrier bearing. With the drive shaft off there are definitely sticky spots in two of the joints. Napa, O’Reillys, and the local Subaru dealer all told me a very similar tragic tale: The U-joints are not replaceable and have no part number, but I can buy a whole new drive shaft for 500+ dollars. Not to be so easily discouraged, I removed one of the “non-removable” U-joints using a dremel and a steady hand, and took it to Napa and O’Reillys, neither of which could find a match in their stocked parts. Has anyone dealt with this before and happen to know of a U-joint that will fit in the 03 Impreza Outback Sport drive shaft? Thanks for any help!
  2. Hi all! Just got my first Subaru it is a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport that I recently picked up. So far it has been going great but I will notice something and can't figure out what exactly is wrong or if there is a problem to begin with. When driving I will step on the gas to accelerate and get up to 30-mph the Tachometer will rev up to about 2500-3000 until i get up to speed if I let off the gas pedal it will immediately drop down to 1000 rpm then back on the gas and back up. Just wondering what is wrong if their is a problem I will be getting the transmission fluid swapped soon as well if that will help. It is an automatic transmission as well. Thanks ahead of time everyone!!
  3. Hey all from Spokane, WA! Im looking at getting my first Subaru And i found a guy wanting to sell his 2000 Impreza OB sport. Problem is, he says in the messages we have sent back and forth its a 2.5L but i havent found definitive evidence of an '00 OBS with a 2.5 liter. Iam new to Subies but like most of my interests i research the crap out of it before i buy. Am i misinformed or does he not know the difference maybe?
  4. I have a 97 impreza outback sport and yesterday the power started to cut in and out like a bad battery/ground connection. earlier that day I had swapped my battery with someone at the river that had left there lights on. and didn't have the proper tools to tighten it back up so that's what I thought was happening. but I start to smell soothing burning and notice a light from a fire by my feet. so I stopped to check it out at and notice it was my clutch cable arcing and almost catching fire. I do notice when I push down on the clutch just a nuff that the peddle meets the cable it stops and I regain power as if it is grounded
  5. Hi, I recently totaled my 2001 Impreza Outback Sport. Before accident it would have been "Very Good" by KBB description. Both interior and exterior had only minor wear that could only be seen up close. Never had any major mechanical issues, tires were new about 14,000 miles ago. I took it in for regular maintenance every 3000. Brakes were still at 60-70%. It was all stock, no additions, nothing missing, orig cassette deck/radio, orig mats, cargo cover and liner, spare tire, jack, etc. It has 142,000 miles on it now. The accident: spun out on some ice and front of car hit cement barrier. Front bumper, one headlight, and passenger fender are the only visual things that got hit, but there is probably interior damage. Insurance declares it a total loss. Auto shop estimate to fix was $2400. Insurance repair estimate was $3600, they valued the car at $4500. Car starts and runs like nothing happened, but the front tires are rubbing against something when you turn the wheel. I don't want to drive an uninsured salvage or rebuilt title car, so I'm going to take the partial payment from insurance and sell the totaled (unrepaired) car to a private party or mechanic, etc. Any ideas on how much I should expect or try to get for this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks for reading!!
  6. Ok I'm lost again. My husband and the subaru dealer said my car was acting fine now that they reset the computer. I drive it for about 5 hrs afterwards and the engine light turns on and we're having the same problem again. Guess the throttle position sensor didn't work. Here's what it's doing.... when I stop... sometimes not all times... I can depress the gas and no matter how much I push the pedal it will pull out at around 5mph. When it really acted up I even tried flooring it and the car crawls away 5mph then all of a sudden it acts like the gas kicks in or the engine realizes that I'm accelerating and it jumps. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Haven't run the codes yet but I will asap and keep you posted.
  7. I am completely lost... went to Advance and had it put on the computer and was told it was an O2 sensor, changed, pulling out and push the gas and pull out at 5mph regardless of how much gas I give it. Suspected throttle position sensor since Advance now says they can't check the codes cause it wasn't hooking up. We buy our own code machine and check again and get that the knock sensor needs changed, husband tries to drive it to see if the TPS is fixed and AWD locks down and there's a clicking noise he feels is the acuator now. This just seems like a total spiral to the death of this car and it's just under 150,000 miles! HELP!!!
  8. Okay, so I'll try to break this down as detailed as possible. I have a '97 Impreza Outback Sport that has seen better days. It is beat to Hell, and the wiring/interior is all messed up (previous owner on all fronts). It still runs like a champ though. So the other day I accidentally left the door ajar, and the battery died. When I recharged it, the security light was blinking. I did some research, and I haven't been able to get it to shut off no matter what I do. I don't have a remote, so the auto-lock option is a no go. I found the button under the dash, but it did nothing. Upon further examination I found that there was a fuse missing at one wire junction. I put a new fuse in, but now when I hold the button and turn the key to ON, the locks go a couple times, but the light keeps blinking. I've tried disconnecting the battery, turning the key to ON and reconnecting the battery. Doesn't work. I've tried turning the key to ACC multiple times as well. Pretty much everything I've seen as a possibility, I've tried. Nothing works. I haven't fully charged the battery, and I can't drive the vehicle right now, so the blinking light keeps draining the battery. So now I'm wondering, should I try to buy a replacement remote, and hope that works? Or, can I just remove the entire keyless entry module somehow, and just disable the whole system. The thing already doesn't have power locks, so I wont necessarily miss it. Also, could maybe cutting the cord to the light stop it from drawing power? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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