wtdash

That '03 'might' be compatible w/ ROMRAIDER and ECUFLASH, if you can find a Tuner that knows what they're doing. That's a unique setup - so might take some work to get it tuned. IMHO, really depends on how much boost you're running, whether a tune would be needed. That's also a MAP-based system (vs. MAF) and I've read those are finicky about running boost. I'd definitely run Premium - 91+ - Unleaded.

...and there is a post on here (?) or online about the '4EAT power mode' hack for the Phase 2. Not going to make more power but may make is seem more peppy. As noted above, ensure all the maintenance items are up-to-date. Low miles but 24 years old - replace on age if not miles. Plugs and wires - NGK /Denso only- may help. Also, if you're suspension is getting soft, it'll make it feel slower. From my experience these should have decent initial acceleration...off the line...but then reality of a non-turbo 4 cylinder moving a 3400+# wagon gets in the way...as do hills.

C.Fan - might be the front cooling fans, but would think that would be in fuse under the hood. Note: I just read that there can be one fuse for a Relay and another for the Power. Cargo socket would (likely) be the rear '12v' power socket. Personally, I'd just tap into the '12V plug' shown. I've installed 3 dash cams and never had an issue blowing it when I used the 12v and dash cam simultaneously.

Not sure on that. It might go into 'limp mode' and add extra fuel as a safety mechanism.

'96 is in Open Loop (ECU Programming) when cold - doesn't use the O2 sensors 'til it's warmed up and goes Closed Loop - from what I've read on here and other sites. I don't see in this thread where you changed the Coolant Sensor (there are two and you want the Sensor to the ECU not the Sender to the gauge). Mounted on the passenger side of the coolant cross-over under the intake manifold. Admittedly your temps sound right "engine coolant temp" 25>>180°F. Also, get another MAF - not sure how available used they are up in AK, but any non-turbo Subaru '92 -'98/'99 with the 2.2 or 2.5 will have the green 22680 AA160 JECS or 22680 AA160F AUTECS MAF.

1998 Forester, 267K miles. This part: -Edit: 12/3/23. It's the spade connector at the gauge. I pushed it (not sure it actually moved) and the gauge started to work. Weird as I'd done that before and no change at the gauge. About a month ago, It stop working consistently. Go up to the normal -just below half setting- and then drops all the way down. And this last week nothing - doesn't budge. I've tried two other senders - one used and one new - and they both worked initially, but then nothing the next day I checked it. I've visually checked the wiring which appears fine. Does the dash cluster gauge ever fail? I've never come across this issue and only pulled one cluster on a '96 Legacy, so not sure if the gauge section is even accessible? Maybe a solder joint has gotten weak, etc? Thanks

Everyone else on here must be psychic, What year and model you working on?

^Thanks for the reply. It's RPM dependent - cold and warm - it changes w/the idle speed - and isn't any worse sounding when revved - even to 6K. And is concentrated over Cylinder 4 area. Above (in my post) is cold start. Here is the warmed-up:

2005 OB. Original engine pulled*; installed an EJ251 (no history) with the proper parts from the '05 - Cam and Crank sprockets and IM, etc. Got this noise on the Driver's side: https://youtube.com/shorts/_SV_YqaVGrs?si=RR28wJ05PoxhatR5 and from underneath: https://youtu.be/Kv8IuDBbvFw - I set the valve clearance (on all the valves), which made no difference. - Pulled the injector's wiring on both Driver's side fuel injectors - no difference. Other info. - Drive's OK - power seems normal - for a 2.5. - Get a CEL for P0420 after 2 drive cycles, which I've not diagnosed. Using this for reference: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/p0420-diagnosis.49537/ I had a similar noise in a '96 Legacy that turned out to be a stuck piston ring. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154755-swapped-out-the-hlas-for-slasstill-got-the-tick/ Is that Rod Knock? Wrist Pin? Stuck Ring(s)? Etc. Thanks for the feedback. * Original EJ253's tensioner bolt broke and caused valve/piston damage.

^2005 was an odd year of the EJ253 (like the '99) as it was MAF-based (not MAP-based like the EJ251) but didn't have the i-AVLS (Active Valve Lift System). I don't know the history of the donor engine. I bought it from a mechanic that got it from a friend, etc. New Crankshaft Sprocket = Running Well! Thanks for the Assistance!

^Yeah...I never really noticed the 'solid vs open/slotted?' style. Wonder if that has something to do with 'crank balance'??

^Only the manual transmission engines have the guard. Autos do not....but it was a good thought. Thanks

Pics of Tbelt install. Look esp. at the Crank Sprocket 'teeth' - where they're near the Crank Sensor. I didn't look that close when I installed it, but now wondering if they're damaged and/or missing their 'triggers'? When the tensioner let go, it could have damaged the sprocket too?

^Yes, single cam sensor on drivers side. Unfortunately, this has one 3/4 cover on the passenger side and one on the driver's side. So, the everything on the front has to come off to see timing. If flashing cruise is my 'clue' to a misfire then I'll check timing and go from there. Thanks

Happy Labor Day! Edit: Fixed with a new Crankshaft Sprocket - see pics of damaged one below. What I'm working on this time: -2005 Outback, Automatic, base 2.5i model with EJ253, 180K - This is the MAF-based, non i-AVLS version. This is the newest Subaru I've worked on. -I bought it 2 weeks ago with a broken timing belt tensioner -the mounting bolt sheared off and very likely damaged pistons and/or valves. Shop had removed the timing covers and found the broken bolt. Owner said -'$pend no more' - and put it on CL. So, I never drove it or heard it run. -Replacement engine is a 2004 EJ251 (VIN confirmed from block stamping) - unknown miles and condition. Long-block only. - Both are EGR; '05 heads stamped Z25; '04 stamped L25. -Moved both Cam sprockets / Gears, Crank Sprocket, Intake Manifold, knock sensor, engine mounts, etc. to the EJ251 (did NOT move the cam or crank sensor - per online Subaru parts they are the same p/n). Installed a brand new T-Belt (Evergreen?? belt) - with Aisin Water Pump and GMB pulleys and tensioner (ebait Mizumo kit). Everything bolted up w/out issue. Brand new battery. New NGK plugs. Fresh oil and filter, and coolant. -The only 'surprise' to me was the newer style Crank Sprocket. I had to double-check online what alignment mark to use. But I'm 99% sure I got it and the Cams aligned correctly. I've done ~10 T-Belts on EJ-series SOHC and DOHC versions w/out a problem. - Used this for reference: - First Start: Starts up but runs really rough and smokes out exhaust. Did not hear any engine knock. I let it run about 30 seconds. Cruise light is flashing. turn if off and checking with OBD2 scanner Shows No Codes. Try it a 2nd time and same issue and no codes. - What would you Gurus check first? If I did mess up the Tbelt install, wouldn't I get a Cam, Crank or Misfire code? Thanks for any Responses!