wtdash

That '03 'might' be compatible w/ ROMRAIDER and ECUFLASH, if you can find a Tuner that knows what they're doing. That's a unique setup - so might take some work to get it tuned. IMHO, really depends on how much boost you're running, whether a tune would be needed. That's also a MAP-based system (vs. MAF) and I've read those are finicky about running boost. I'd definitely run Premium - 91+ - Unleaded.

...and there is a post on here (?) or online about the '4EAT power mode' hack for the Phase 2. Not going to make more power but may make is seem more peppy. As noted above, ensure all the maintenance items are up-to-date. Low miles but 24 years old - replace on age if not miles. Plugs and wires - NGK /Denso only- may help. Also, if you're suspension is getting soft, it'll make it feel slower. From my experience these should have decent initial acceleration...off the line...but then reality of a non-turbo 4 cylinder moving a 3400+# wagon gets in the way...as do hills.

C.Fan - might be the front cooling fans, but would think that would be in fuse under the hood. Note: I just read that there can be one fuse for a Relay and another for the Power. Cargo socket would (likely) be the rear '12v' power socket. Personally, I'd just tap into the '12V plug' shown. I've installed 3 dash cams and never had an issue blowing it when I used the 12v and dash cam simultaneously.

Not sure on that. It might go into 'limp mode' and add extra fuel as a safety mechanism.

'96 is in Open Loop (ECU Programming) when cold - doesn't use the O2 sensors 'til it's warmed up and goes Closed Loop - from what I've read on here and other sites. I don't see in this thread where you changed the Coolant Sensor (there are two and you want the Sensor to the ECU not the Sender to the gauge). Mounted on the passenger side of the coolant cross-over under the intake manifold. Admittedly your temps sound right "engine coolant temp" 25>>180°F. Also, get another MAF - not sure how available used they are up in AK, but any non-turbo Subaru '92 -'98/'99 with the 2.2 or 2.5 will have the green 22680 AA160 JECS or 22680 AA160F AUTECS MAF.

1998 Forester, 267K miles. This part: -Edit: 12/3/23. It's the spade connector at the gauge. I pushed it (not sure it actually moved) and the gauge started to work. Weird as I'd done that before and no change at the gauge. About a month ago, It stop working consistently. Go up to the normal -just below half setting- and then drops all the way down. And this last week nothing - doesn't budge. I've tried two other senders - one used and one new - and they both worked initially, but then nothing the next day I checked it. I've visually checked the wiring which appears fine. Does the dash cluster gauge ever fail? I've never come across this issue and only pulled one cluster on a '96 Legacy, so not sure if the gauge section is even accessible? Maybe a solder joint has gotten weak, etc? Thanks

Everyone else on here must be psychic, What year and model you working on?

^Thanks for the reply. It's RPM dependent - cold and warm - it changes w/the idle speed - and isn't any worse sounding when revved - even to 6K. And is concentrated over Cylinder 4 area. Above (in my post) is cold start. Here is the warmed-up:

2005 OB. Original engine pulled*; installed an EJ251 (no history) with the proper parts from the '05 - Cam and Crank sprockets and IM, etc. Got this noise on the Driver's side: https://youtube.com/shorts/_SV_YqaVGrs?si=RR28wJ05PoxhatR5 and from underneath: https://youtu.be/Kv8IuDBbvFw - I set the valve clearance (on all the valves), which made no difference. - Pulled the injector's wiring on both Driver's side fuel injectors - no difference. Other info. - Drive's OK - power seems normal - for a 2.5. - Get a CEL for P0420 after 2 drive cycles, which I've not diagnosed. Using this for reference: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/p0420-diagnosis.49537/ I had a similar noise in a '96 Legacy that turned out to be a stuck piston ring. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154755-swapped-out-the-hlas-for-slasstill-got-the-tick/ Is that Rod Knock? Wrist Pin? Stuck Ring(s)? Etc. Thanks for the feedback. * Original EJ253's tensioner bolt broke and caused valve/piston damage.

^2005 was an odd year of the EJ253 (like the '99) as it was MAF-based (not MAP-based like the EJ251) but didn't have the i-AVLS (Active Valve Lift System). I don't know the history of the donor engine. I bought it from a mechanic that got it from a friend, etc. New Crankshaft Sprocket = Running Well! Thanks for the Assistance!

^Yeah...I never really noticed the 'solid vs open/slotted?' style. Wonder if that has something to do with 'crank balance'??

^Only the manual transmission engines have the guard. Autos do not....but it was a good thought. Thanks

Pics of Tbelt install. Look esp. at the Crank Sprocket 'teeth' - where they're near the Crank Sensor. I didn't look that close when I installed it, but now wondering if they're damaged and/or missing their 'triggers'? When the tensioner let go, it could have damaged the sprocket too?

^Yes, single cam sensor on drivers side. Unfortunately, this has one 3/4 cover on the passenger side and one on the driver's side. So, the everything on the front has to come off to see timing. If flashing cruise is my 'clue' to a misfire then I'll check timing and go from there. Thanks

Happy Labor Day! Edit: Fixed with a new Crankshaft Sprocket - see pics of damaged one below. What I'm working on this time: -2005 Outback, Automatic, base 2.5i model with EJ253, 180K - This is the MAF-based, non i-AVLS version. This is the newest Subaru I've worked on. -I bought it 2 weeks ago with a broken timing belt tensioner -the mounting bolt sheared off and very likely damaged pistons and/or valves. Shop had removed the timing covers and found the broken bolt. Owner said -'$pend no more' - and put it on CL. So, I never drove it or heard it run. -Replacement engine is a 2004 EJ251 (VIN confirmed from block stamping) - unknown miles and condition. Long-block only. - Both are EGR; '05 heads stamped Z25; '04 stamped L25. -Moved both Cam sprockets / Gears, Crank Sprocket, Intake Manifold, knock sensor, engine mounts, etc. to the EJ251 (did NOT move the cam or crank sensor - per online Subaru parts they are the same p/n). Installed a brand new T-Belt (Evergreen?? belt) - with Aisin Water Pump and GMB pulleys and tensioner (ebait Mizumo kit). Everything bolted up w/out issue. Brand new battery. New NGK plugs. Fresh oil and filter, and coolant. -The only 'surprise' to me was the newer style Crank Sprocket. I had to double-check online what alignment mark to use. But I'm 99% sure I got it and the Cams aligned correctly. I've done ~10 T-Belts on EJ-series SOHC and DOHC versions w/out a problem. - Used this for reference: - First Start: Starts up but runs really rough and smokes out exhaust. Did not hear any engine knock. I let it run about 30 seconds. Cruise light is flashing. turn if off and checking with OBD2 scanner Shows No Codes. Try it a 2nd time and same issue and no codes. - What would you Gurus check first? If I did mess up the Tbelt install, wouldn't I get a Cam, Crank or Misfire code? Thanks for any Responses!

Try here for the O2 wiring: https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ There are more Subaru wiring diagrams posted on other sites too. No offense, but you stated in the 1st post - that you swapped ECUs, and didn't mention that the EJ251 was no longer avl., so that led the USMB to the info above.

Not seeing a lot online when I helped a friend do this, so my .02 for posterity. Disclaimer - If you work on your own car, you're also RESPONSIBLE for what you do, as I'm 100% NOT RESPONSIBLE for you. Be smart and safe! - Started with an '03 Legacy wagon. The 'Special Edition' model that was actually the standard for the '03 MY, for the Sedan and Wagon - Cars101.com. This should apply to any '00-'04 model and as far as I've seen the sedan uses the same suspension setup. - I spent some time trying to discern if the strut body or the spring or both raised the REAR of the Outback/OB - along w/the sub-frame spacers. The online Subaru parts catalogs were no help as they showed the same part numbers for the strut AND spring for "L" and "OB", which was confusing. Not sure what - if anything - I was doing wrong. But I did note that KYB sold different part numbers for the L and OB strut. Here's a comparison of the the 'L' on the left and 'OB' on the right. Looks like it's the 'strut' that provides the lift - not the spring - although the OB is heavier, so maybe the springs are stiffer? - Originally thought about adding spacers to the OB front and rear struts/shocks, but the type the owner bought required spring compressors. ---------------------------------------- - Ended up with the OB struts front and rear - for now. May add the spacers later. - Owner bought some OB 'quick struts' for the Front, which I had my concerns as most of the aftermarket options are not high-quality. But KYB didn't make a set for the front or rear. - I grabbed a set of used OB Rear struts from the local yard. ---------------------------------------- - Installing the front struts is an easy process - just remember to mark the head of the top bolt's (at the hub/knuckle) orientation to keep the alignment (camber at least) close. ---Sidenote: Don't bother removing the brake lines on the older Subarus ('99 and older). Pull the retaining clip (note how it attaches!), dremel or hacksaw the bracket on the outer edge, bend it out of the way, remove the brake line, install new strut, install the line, realign the bracket, and pull the line's hose fitting into the bracket toinstall the clip. - The rears were more of a challenge, mainly because it can be a 2-person job to jack up the rear and align the bottom bolt at the same time. - A couple different ways to do it after installing the top and screwing on the nuts: -Jack up the knuckle just outside of the mount point, which worked for us. -Use the car's scissor jack between the car's body and subframe to spread it up and down at the same time. We didn't try this but worked for others. CAREFUL as the scissor jack could slip! -Torque everything down - look up specs online. Edit: With the 215/65R16 General Grabber tires installed. They are ~ 1/2" taller than the stock OB 225/60R16 tire. ---------------------------------------- For Tires, owner is looking at an AT tread - likely a Yokohama G015 or the ubiquitous (at least on Subarus) Falken Wildpeak. Looks like a 215/65R16 will fit best and it has the most tire options, but could go to either a 225/65R16 or even a 215/70R16, if they can find an AT tire in those size. But those do make a tight fit on the rear fenders. Spare tire- I brought along a 225/60R16 to use as a spare - IT DOESN'T FIT in the Legacy's rear tire well, and I'm guessing that means the OB must have a temporary spare, too. Kinda sucks.

2003 Legacy Wagon (not an Outback / OB). Wanting to lift it UP to more or less match an OB and add taller tires. I have the OB struts for the front, but for the REAR not sure if the struts, springs or BOTH are what create the lift in the rear? OR is it just the subframe spacer back there (plus taller tires)? Finding conflicting info on Subaru's part sites. But do see that KYB has two different part numbers for the Legacy vs. the OB. I've searched, but most posts are for those lifting their OB with spacers, or for the newer models. On my '97 Legacy 'L', I bought KYB OB struts and reused the stock L springs and it lifted it up. Exactly what I was hoping to do w/the '03, but not familiar w/the newer multi-link setup. Thanks for any info....and Happy 4th of July!

2003 Legacy - wagon - 150K miles. Front Passenger electric window originally worked but would go up too far. Eventually stopped working altogether - from both the driver's master and passenger side switch. Replaced the window's regulator and motor and still not working. DOES work with 12v direct to motor. Switch is GOOD - works w/the rear window and the rear switch does not work on the passenger either. Assuming it must be the harness, but is there a common failure point? Maybe the harness under the boot / cover that runs between the door and body? Haven't checked that yet. Thanks for any feedback!

Not much to add, except GD doesn't like the grey injectors - as they're less reliable than reds, IIRC. I have two IM's hanging in the garage and one with greys and one with reds - both from mid-90s EJ22s.

Devil's advocate (and hypocrite*): A taller tire (larger diameter) will affect speedometer, gearing and possibly MPG (also depends on tire style - AT vs. All Season, etc.). If you regulary drive 5 over the posted speed, may put you 1-2 MPH faster and light up a radar gun. The Foz's stock gearing may change enough that it's already leisurely performance may become less tolerable (aka, slower) and you might find hills (are there any in Indy?) may cause the transmission to shift more often or 'hunt' for the right gear...although the 4EAT (or 5-speed?) may not be as finicky as newer multi-speed trans. If this is a commuter, then MPG may be a factor and note that different tread patterns, wider (235 vs stock 225), and tire weight will impact it. Our neighbors @subaruforester.org may have a thing or 2 about tire upgrades for your 3rd Gen. *My old '98 Foz - had stock 215/60R16 and I run a 215/70R16, which is a 1.7" taller (per https://tiresize.com/comparison/). Note: These won't fit on stock '98 struts (all 4 corners); require '03+ struts with the increased lower spring perch.

HI, EGR is generally part of the HEADS not the shortblock. Shortblock being with out cylinder heads attached. Are you using the Impreza (2.2?) Long block = short block + heads? Assuming you're using the Legacy intake manifold/IM since the EGR on the IM doesn't exist. Try the old engine's oil drain plug, IIRC that matches the EGR port. No, I don't know what size. Also, note that the Impreza's cam triggers may not match your Legacy and need to swap cam gears/sprockets. RE: the PCV, I'm not familiar w/the threaded version so can't help other than to MacGuyer something.

Related? Might want to consider replacing some of the shifter bushings and/or the linkage. Helps w/the sloppy shifter.: There's also the trans mount that can wear out.

Hi, I was getting that code and was told by GD on here to check my hoses: "Make sure the vacuum lines for the MAP sensor and MAP sensor switching solenoid are EXACTLY as indicated on the under-hood sticker. " It should be like this:

Hi, Edit: The '97 L springs work fine w/the new OB KYB struts I bought. The spring perch on the struts provides the lift. I'm guessing it's pretty close to the same as an OB. Here's the final product with the stock OB 205/70R15 Tires/wheels. Only 'issue' is that since I didn't install the OB rear trailing arms (?) the rear tire gets pulled in closer to the fender, but not a problem on the stock size tires. Picked up a '97 Legacy L Wagon for cheap to fix the engine. Has a 150K miles. It needs struts and I can buy cheap KYB's on Rockauto or Ebait for the OB, AND I'll be able to run a bigger tire (but just the stock-ish - 205/70R15 or 215/60R16). Will the Legacy Springs on the OB Struts provide any lift? Tangent: I put a 215/60r16 Forester spare on my Legacy and it clears the front and rear lower strut perch, but the back is close - both the top and inside of the tire. Also, I'd usually just buy the complete strut assemblies from the local PullNSave yard, but have had bad luck w/those as they all have a ton of miles.