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Thanks for the update. Interested what your Manual Trans ID was (TYxxxxxxxx) or the exact year Forester it came from? I may be needing one myself. I know there are many options, but nice to know 'for sure' what someone else installed.

Thanks...that's what this means: "I can put the Forester's keyless system into programming mode: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm" And FWIW, I did this on '99 Foz w/the same system last month and it worked (but with a different key fob).

Happy New Year USMB EDIT: Issue must be w/the under-dash wiring. While filling the tank, I pushed the button (for the heck of it) and the REAR hatch locked/unlocked and the lights flashed. The rear hatch was replaced after a break-in a few years back. So, something, something is amiss with keyless controller. No, I don't know why I didn't notice b4, thanks for asking. Edit#2: Well, it's now working normally for ALL doors. My guess? Is that the actuator was likely just dormant after all these years of non-use? Anyway, I'll take this off the the 'to do (aka Fix) list'. I have one of these CODE Alarm fobs. I'd like to get it to work in a '98 Forester. - I'm 99% sure the fob worked before and it has a brand-new battery - but I don't see any lights (on the fob) even when I tested with the case open so don't know if it's actually DOA or not. - I can put the Forester's keyless system into programming mode: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm - When in programming mode, holding the programming button and pushing the 'Lock' button nothing happens- no door lock cycle occurs to confirm. - Any insight on troubleshooting these fobs? Anyone have an extra they want to sell (I'd like to have a spare/test)?

Drain the fluid and reuse if it's not due to be replaced (every 30K miles ). And some will still have leak out. I don't recall how much but a quart of DEXIII should suffice to top it off. You'll need that rear section's gasket too, and I'd suggest replace the Duty C while in there. From here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/ (USMB won't allow bigger pics?)

Hi, Your '94 WRX is not USDM - likely JDM import? If so, I'm not sure we'd all have much knowledge about it. Evidenced by the lack of response. I googled your Trans ID and didn't get much. I'd google and it see what other Subie owners have done overseas and check other int'l Subie sites. My opinion: I'd be very surprised if that '02-'05 was Electronically compatible w/your '94. Yours is considered a Phase 1 trans, and although I'm not sure when JDM stuff converted to Phase 2, I believe it was '02ish. They won't play nice with each other - The '94 TCM (trans computer) won't know what to do w/that newer trans and vice versa. A newer TCM won't connect to your existing harness nor will it work w/that EJ20G under the hood. If wiring is your forte, have at it. EDIT: You stated you have VTD? In '94? Hmm...the below probably won't apply as US didn't get those 'til the '01 OB, AFAIK. I'd bet you could use another 4EAT from a US model. The downside is that there is no transmission (other than an SVX, but you don't want one of THOSE) built for your turbo's power, , esp. if you're WRX is running higher boost. The longevity of an NA/non-turbo trans may be limited. The best option would be to find a low-mileage 4EAT from a '96-'98 Legacy OB or GT, or '98 Forester or Impreza RS - you'll need the rear diff since those are all 4.44. Or better yet, convert to manual, but that may not be an option.

Also...I'd put it in 1st and see if it's as bad. If it's better than you can 'manually shift' when warranted. Not ideal but easier than fixing the clutch packs - unless you're bored and have a heated shop (I sure as heck don't). I had a '99 Foz w/a similar issue that was better in 1st than in D for starting out when slick. Only had 97K miles, but unknown previous ATF maintenance. I'd also do the 3x Drain>Refill>Drive cycles mentioned on here. It didn't help mine, but it was due for fresh ATF anyway.

Hi, If the CEL is on - even if you checked it - double-check it for codes. Does it miss/hesitate with your foot on the go pedal? Wondering if the DBW may be bugging-out. 2014 isn't too old, but how many miles/kms? Maybe you're due for a tune-up? Does this have a CVT or Automatic - either way check the fluid. Td

May have missed it but did you count teeth on the Tbelt? That's the 'safest' way to ensure timing (or so I've read).

1st: Post your Ride - year/model - A$$uming this is a '90-'98/'99 if you're running those heads. 2nd: Did it EVER run right after the engine install? 3rd: Hopefully the smart guys will reply as I'm not an engine expurt....but those #'s comp/LD all seem 'good nuf'. 4th: Those are the good gaskets (depending on STi-based year), but I didn't know they were that skinny. Did you double-check your clearance between pistons/valves etc? The '99 OB/GT/SUS use a similar engine (Phase 1 heads on Phase 2 block) but pretty sure the pistons are Phase 1. 5th: My guess (!) is that you have a vacuum leak - maybe the IM isn't sealed since you had to mod-2-fit? 6th: And if your CEL is on what are the CURRENT codes - after they're cleared/ECU reset? Edit:...I'm thinking 1LT is on track. If you had to mod the IM, the timing is likely suspect, but not sure how it affects the comp/LD tests if it IS off? Td

Hi, Those are super-cool cars and they also had other factory options - in Japan- that we never got in the USA. You'll want to search online for the 'valley of death' (turbo reference), and this site has some info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_(second_generation) The engine should be similar to any other EJ20G/K/R series engine: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ20 These should be Phase 1 versions, until about '98/'99 for the JDM versions. Japan usually got the next generation a year before the USA. The turbos are unique, AFAIK, to the twin-turbo models. So if they fail, it'll be a challenge finding a replacement. I've read that they can be converted to a more 'normal' single turbo setup, but that'll take some Googlin'. They'll also likely have a unique top mount intercooler setup. If the hoses/fittings/etc. fail they can be hard to find. I've had some success using ebay's UK site: https://www.ebay.co.uk/ Check with the SELLER before buying anything to see if they'll 'post' (ship) to the US. Also, there is a member on the Legacy Central site that may be useful for info, see here: http://legacycentral.org/ Joshua Colombo (Legacy777) knows the guy, too. Josh used to post on here but he's the Admin on Legacy Central. I think his name is Michael Block: https://shoutengine.com/CrankJournal/reengineering-with-joshua-colombo-40015 And there may be other online forums based in Australia for info...since they're also RH drive I think they got these. GL, Td

Check resistance on the injectors. Should be 10-12 ohms, IIRC. '92 'should' have the same red, side-feeds as every EJ22/25 until '98-ish - if you have a local used/salvage/wrecking yard. They are a pain to remove from the rails. I'd also 2nd the coolant sensor as suspect. On that year there's one for the gauge (single plug) and the actual sensor (2-wire) for the ECU, next to each other. Also, kind of a pain to access/remove.

OEM...and they show the R and L on the OEM parts. And yeah...they can be installed 'upside' down on the other side. Thanks 'wearever' brand: Pic is from website. Looks universal, from these angles. OEM: I'll take another look at them as this OEM image definitely shows differences in the casting on each end and the other side.

Edit: Had a 'super' senior moment: The brackets ARE labeled HTH did I miss them. Pins: Brackets labeled L and R THERE: I bought a set of Advance Auto Wearever calipers and brackets for an '04 WRX. Took 'em apart to install clips and pads and didn't note that the Brackets are left and right-specific - like the Calipers, until I looked 'em up online today. How do I tell if I put them on the correct side? They looked the same to me. And the Calipers mounted up fine. Thanks

Saw a real '79 FE Coupe today. Snapped a couple pics. NOT MINE. It was a barn find in MT. I was buying parts from the owner and he showed me the car. By no means primo condition out/in, but a 'survivor' if that term applies. A couple of interesting links: https://www.curbsideclassic.com/cars-of-a-lifetime/cars-of-a-lifetime-1979-subaru-fe-it-can-finally-be-told-and-shown/ https://www.autosspeed.com/10-of-the-rarest-subarus-ever/

FWIW, I've noted on a couple of my past Subarus - and anecdotally online - that changing the fluid on a higher mileage car can induce symptoms of a failed/failing transmission as the 'new' ATF causes seals to leak. The old ATF and accumulated sludge creates a seal that prevents leaking and other issues- until it's changed out. It's usually due to a chemical or power flush, so in your case - where it was just drained and refilled- I'm less confident it's related. Otherwise, you have useful info above to work thru. Good luck.

Tangent: Please see http://www.cars101.com/impreza_archive97_98.html '97 was the last year of the 1.8, per cars101.com. And the ebay pics are legit based on the part number 22611AC450. Back to topic: Yes, the EJ22 IM + ECU is good.

HI, Yes....they are...should be able to pull that part off and sand it down. There was/is a Great Post on here that I followed. I can't recall the 'poster' but likely Search will find it or maybe on YT. I did that on mine to repair the TB and delayed AWD. IIRC, you'll want to also replace the Duty-C ...it's easy to do with it all apart and they do fail.

The 1.8 isn't my forte, but I'd 'think' (!) that the ECU / ECM changed with the OBD2 implementation in '95-'96, since it did on the Legacy. Per Ebay....they did: Find the ECM harness plugs and match to the below links...the harness plugs will match the color of the ECM's. 1993-1995: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/aE4AAOSwgQ9ViZQn/s-l1600.jpg 1996+: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UesAAOSwcJtc2yb4/s-l1600.jpg

Hi Did you (not) reuse your original Intake manifold? That would eliminate a lot of the 'unknowns' - at least that's what others do....unless it incompatico w/the JDM version. Otherwise, go here for the FSM. I've not dealt w/any Subarus newer than '04 , so not any help on the ABS stuff...but if you have 0 codes before the swap, so may be those are 'phantom codes'? Older Subies were notorious for throwing a barrage of codes when really only one issue was occurring. Fix that one and the rest vanished. GL, Td

Oh yeah...What I refer to (mistakenly) as the Intake Manifold /IM harness for the '90-'91 (?) had round vs square connectors (or vice versa) and maybe 2 vs. 3 connectors? And don't forget ebait.

I'm not clear on what you have vs. what you need. The car is MISSING A HARNESS??? You have a turbo engine in a non-turbo chassis? Suggest you go look here: bbs.legacycentral.org It's specific to the '90-'94 Legacy with the EJ22E, including the SS/ Sport Sedan and Touring Wagon / TW with the EJ22T engine. The SS/TW were all made in Japan; the non-turbos were built both in the US and Japan (I think). The VIN of the car will obviously tell you that. I don't believe the older stuff has the VIN on the engine - there may be a serial number on the back of the bellhousing? But I can't tell you if helps ID the engine. The EJ22T has the 'cross hatching' (?) on the rear bell housing, which I believe is one way to ID it. Also, there are two ports on each valve cover vs. 1 for the NA/non-turbo. Assuming, somebody didn't just put turbo heads on non-turbo block (like me). The harness for the turbo vs. non-turbo has only a couple of differences. See this: https://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=45769 - pinout link included - You'd need to add the wiring for the turbo sensors...and source those - if not present. The ECU for the turbo from '91-'94 works in BOTH the MT and AT cars. There's a pin @ the ECU that ID's the tranny type. You cannot 'flash' the ECU of any '90-'98 USDM Subaru. Unless maybe you have access to Subaru's SSM tool? Aftermarket EM is the only option for the '95-'99 cars. The ECUs from the overseas stuff are very different and would require a lot work to re-pin to make work. There was a chip for the EJ22T ECU - but those are no longer made and very hard to find. The EJ20G ECU from the '92-'96 JDM/EDM/ADM is also VERY similar to the '90-'94 ECU pinout. It does have a few more tuning options, but those are also questionable to source - see robtune.com and look up ESL. And you're crossing the OBDI vs. OBDII AND the Phase 1 vs Phase 2 barriers, so the '01 would be a bad idea. Wiring, electronics, sensors, etc. are not going to play well - if at all.

What I know 1st hand - this applies to US and Canadian models only and only the front seats: All Legacy (Brighton, L, LS, LSi, GT, SUS) and Outback (Limited, H6, LL Bean, etc.) seats from '90-'04 will interchange as will the '92-'07 Impreza/WRX/Sti and '98-'08 Forester. These will all interchange - bolt-up - between models. You may need to use your existing seat belt buckles. See below for caveats. I put '00 Legacy OB seats in my '96 Legacy L. - Bolted up, moved over the seat belt, and found a 12v under the seat as the '00 seats were power. Great upgrade, IMHO. I put '04 WRX seats in my '04 Forester - same fit and airbag connectors. I only did this as the stock were leather, and slippery as heck; the WRX were much more supportive. I put '02 WRX seats in my '93 Legacy (common upgrade) - but they sit too high, IMHO. I could adjust the driver's height to an acceptable level, but the passenger was not adjustable. They bolted in just fine. Some models had more/extra bolts on the inside of the seat frames - by the center console, but the 'feet' were all the same, if I remember correctly. I tried to put '08 Legacy GT seats into a '93 Legacy and they will NOT fit. Bolt holes don't line up. So, '05+ Legacy/OB won't fit older stuff.

Who said the EJ205 is more reliable? They spin bearings and blow headgaskets (yes, I had one) as well as the next one. I'd go look on NASIOC for more info as that EJ25 is essentially the same as the '06+ WRX EJ255 (slightly higher CR), which I would prefer. If that XT has the 4EAT you'll want the displacement as the Auto's suck the life out of the turbo'd engine. I had an '02 WRX AND an '04 FXT w/the 4EAT, and it was 7.5 seconds 0-60. People w/the 5-speed manual could do it <6 seconds. RE: the non-avcs EJ20, You'll need to either use RomRaider/ECUflash or get a Cobb AP to tune out/around the AVCS...I'd check w/a tuner BEFORE you pull the trigger on that, as I'm NOT an expert. Also, a tune can help w/the crappy stock tune and performance w/the 4EAT. I don't know your budget, but if you got the car cheap and want to keep it, I'd get a new shortblock for about $2K. Rebuild your heads and assuming YOU can do the labor, you'll have a fun car for cheap. I really don't trust any used Subaru turbo engine (except the old EJ22T), plus you never know how hard it was driven/maintained. Ps. That stock TD04 is likely toast, too. Get another turbo (VF39/43/48 from an STI) as an upgrade. NASIOC has those, too.

Tangent for VLSD. Avl. on '00+ 'S' trim models: All Weather Package: larger outside defrosting mirrors, heated front seats, windshield wiper de-icer, limited slip rear differential Limited slip new for 2000. (not available on L)" Per Cars101.com

Yes....as long as it's single.