wtdash

I 'think' that the '99 had the issues w/the cluster wiring - surface solder joints get disconnected w/age. Read this...https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548. some of it may be relevant. I'd bet if you fix the P0500, the others go away.

1. Yes, if you plan to replace the ENTIRE harness, it MIGHT work. 2. You likely will have wiring, sensor and all kinds of other headaches. Have you been doing swaps for years and can do it in your sleep?Although everything should bolt together, the wiring is way different, both ON THE ENGINE, ON THE TRANSMISSION and between the ECU, TCU (trans computer), and DASH harness. 3. Likely won't pass emissions testing. 4. Likely will not run correctly. 5. It's just a bad idea. 6. Main issue is you're 'crossing phases'. '96 is a Phase 1 Subaru electronics; '04 is Phase 2.

HI...again, I didn't notice (or you've updated it in the last year) that you're in the UK.....so not something us Yanks know much about. Google: Transmission TZ102ZA5AA - Subaru Impreza 1997, 1998, Subaru Impreza, Outback Sport (Station Wagon) 1997, 1998, I think this for the 2.2. vs. TZ102ZR5AA SUBARU IMPREZA 2,0 4X4- 1998 Did the UK get the 2.2 AND the 2.0 - NON-turbo engines?

Check the injector's resistance. Should be about 11-12 ohms? Same injectors as on the '92-'98 2.2, too.

Well done. :-)

See this....if you have this code, likely a wire got cut:

Get the code from the TCU and that'll help. The fact that the FWD fuse does nothing indicates the Duty C is dead, but if it was fine b4 the HG repair.......should be good now. Yeah...I always use a 2x6 or similar now, too.

If you used a jack on the trans pan....did that once (and only once)...you likely dented it and damaged a wire, etc. on the valve body inside it. In my case, I managed to break a wire. Dropped the pan, Soldered it back together, knocked out the dent, and reinstalled the pan....no more blinking.

so...What was the 'missing link'? My guess is/was the CatCon..

You replaced this part: Is this an AWD? the '96 was the last year of FWD and it had Traction Control/TC that the AWD didn't. 100% sure it has ABS? Wasn't on all models that year, per CARS101.com. This site may help, beware it's PG-13 rated..

Phase 1 vs Phase 2 And search on 'frankenstein' or is that frankenstine?

We're responding to this comment....if you put in a VehicleSpeedSensor (the correct one for your car), this wouldn't be an issue.

Look on NASIOC and legacyGT.com for more info. I looked into this same swap on '98 Forester turbo project, but never got it done. 2005 GT 'should' be a 4.11 (OB XT was 4.44) and should match your stock rear diff...( the GT had VLSD). Very good trans from what I remember reading. 4 trans in 6 years???///WTH. These are not weak trans. And you '98 will run in 'limp' mode w/out the VSS hooked up....unless you're running a Megasquirt or similar EM? Not a direct swap, but some info: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5mt-replacement-questionsiii-subaru-transmission-gurus-needed-262690.html Here's one I remembered on NASIOC for a '97 GT.....99% same as your '98 (GT has different gear ratios, but same FD ratio) : https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22564870#post22564870

Dude! Phase 1 vs Phase 2 = no go. You don't state it, but the 4.44 was in the Automatic OB's so guessing their both AT. You''ll need to stick w/the '96-'98 2.5 cars LGT, RS and Forester would work, too.

.02: the wider the gap the better the combustion. From HERE: So, run the widest gap you can that doesn't cause issues - knock, etc. Remember the MFG recommends what works for all their vehicles and commonly available fuel....doesn't mean it's optimum for YOUR car.

As noted, go find another P2 2.5, verify history (not overheated, much), do the HG and put in the Roller. Sell that 2.2 to another EJ25D Swapper. We're probably seeing the decline of the swap popularity due to the age of these ol' Subies, but if the 2.2 is still 100% should be worth $350+ in CO?

Try searching...in here: http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Check the codes, because: power light flash - search on 'handshake' etc. to get the info. Or THIS> If the FWD fuse 'works' and TB goes away, it's just the clutches = Mechanical. If it doesn't - it's @ least the Duty C solenoid = Electrical.

don't know what '8 mm d flat profile' means, but the TPS are not all the same. Depends on year/engine, and since you're Downunder you might even have other options. From Wikipedia:

Hi, welcome to site. More searching here and online will get you an answer. But the short answer is No. Not 'drop in'. 2006+ had i-AVLS on the heads, so that means a no to. Also the wiring is different. And the intake manifold due to an older style...but technically it'll bolt up. I'd guess the shortblock might work, but I also just read on here that the 2009+ blocks may be different enough to cause issues. Best option is find 2009+ EJ2.5 - watch out for the PZEV versions as they're also different. And it depends on how much of the engine is toast - just the shortblock? Or the heads too. Remember the HG issue..any USED engine is susceptible.

P.s. Go look on LegacyGT.com (Legacy GT, OB H6 and others w/the integrated HVAC/HU share the same issue) for more info (or google it), but yeah...you're basically scre.....>>>unlucky to have this year and want a HU/receiver upgrade.

Just a side-note. the EJ18 EGR pipe may not work/fit right on an EJ22 (I've never had/worked on one). Here's how to bypass it on an EJ22, but not sure if the EJ18 'likes it'. Also, RS25.com is dedicated to Imprezas and may have this covered, too.

Hi, Just to add/heads up, SOME parts places will call it an 'Outback' whiles others note it as a "Legacy Outback". Depends on whom you ask. And each state has its own labeling method so titles are not always reliable sources. td

No issues buying on ebait if buying name-brand (AND Seller's feedback). KYB is the best. There are lots of online installs for these. Unless yours are clunking, the tophats (strut mounts) may be fine. Depending on your shopping skills (and patience) I recently bought all new for a different car. All KYB and found better prices shopping around on Amazon and Rockauto (RA). RA 5% code: 8605686777408527 and KYB's have a rebate per their site.

Disclaimer: have not driven any Subaru this new w/the 4EAT or 5EAT. Assuming this is a NON-turbo? Not an XT, correct? I'd start w/the AT service - up to date? You're in the high country so you're down on power anyway you look @ it, but I wouldn't expect 2nd to be 'that' bad. I'm confused as to why it wouldn't shift to 3rd in the mtns...see attached shows that 3rd should be good to 99 MPH (assuming that's Redline). SOHC Boxers have a pretty flat torque band, so it shouldn't have a high RPM 'kick' like a DOHC or turbo. You could try resetting the ECU/TCU by unplugging the Neg battery for 30 minutes (NOTE: you'll lose your radio presets, MIGHT have to re-program your keyless fobs, etc.). This doesn't 'fix' anything but If it runs better/different initially then you may a problem....it'll revert back to the same behavior after a few miles. But these are generally reliable transmissions. Go test drive another Subaru w/the same trans for comparison?