wtdash

Doh! Shoulda/coulda remembered that! good job! the fans shoulda been cycling and all sensors clicking.

NO offense,....If this is an Automatic, are U sure it's the CEL and not the Power or AT temp light?? And '95 was the OBD1>OBD2 transition. I think all 1995 2.2 Subarus were OBD2,...but not 100%. I believe the '95 Impreza 1.8 was still OBD1.

And '99 Legacy could have two kinds...2.2 or 2.5? 2.5 is the same Green Label JECs/AUTECS MAF used on Subarus from '92-'98/'99. But yeah, the '99 2.2 was a unique year....did you look @ Foresters (2.5 but phase 2 electronics) and Imprezas?

To change plugs: A search found this: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/390178-how-i-changed-my-spark-plugs-ej25d-tips-future-readers.html It's a PITA on the EJ25D engine in you OB......done it, didn't like it. Your engine is in the '96-'99 OB/GT/LSi, '98 Forester and '98 Impreza RS Buy the NGK platinum plugs which are good for 60K or if you're cheap get the copper version and do 'em again in 30K miles. RE: the misfire? see Lucky's info above, but I'd also guess the valves have never been adjusted as that's also a PITA, or worst case scenario you have a burnt valve...been there, fixed that w/a 2.2 (EJ22e) swap.

Foz = Fozzie = Forester...google. Intake and it's wiring need to match the '03...so keep the '03.

Hmmm. not sure why no one has responded...although this is covered elsewhere. The Phase2 2.2 in your '99 should work if you swap the intake manifold from the Foz and the exhaust manifold from the Imp. If the Foz is an Automatic use its flex-plate. I'd also do the HG while it's out as that Phase 2 will likely have issues like the 2.5's.

1996-99 Forester, OB, GT, Impreza RS....easiest choices- direct swap and all 'hydro'/ hydraulic clutch. The RS and GT will have a gear ratio for 'shorter' tires. 2000--04-ish should work, but the FD ratio's get 'fuzzy'. Sometime around the 2004 year most Subes lost the gear-driven speedo - probably a work-around. The early '02-''05 (?) WRX (turbo) 5-speeds are a PULL type clutch and you'll need a PUSH as you noted...in case you were thinking. Whether the new FB-series engines' 5-speeds will work w/your EJ-series engine is not listed in my 'database' (memory). You live in freakin' Subie-central there in Vancouver - near Portland AND Seattle. No shortage of donors, I'd surmise. This chart may (or not) still be useful, as I've not personally reviewed it: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Here's a pic of parts you may also need for the clutch: http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_11/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ Unlikely you'll need the master or slave cylinders. .....- make sure you don't push the clutch pedal with everything disconnected....read that's a bad idea. Td

That. is. weird. Sounds like it's mis-aligned in there somewhere and it's 'bouncing off' the bottom 'stop' setting'. It then stops - maybe a self-reset or similar - to keep from burning out the motor. Pulling the inner door panel isn't too tough and you might be able to see what's going on.

Hi, Usually due to vacuum leak(s). Put a smoke / pressure tester on it to find them all and fix. Td

FWIW, the '05+ generation have a less stellar history than their predecessors, based on what I've read on here. Just a higher # of minor - .05&.10 - stuff. And they still had the potential HG issues due to the EJxxx series engine.... As SOA (subaru of america) got bigger their quality may have taken a hit about this time. Maintenance history? Get the heads checked regardless, and usually best to find a 'real' Subaru mech /tech - not a generic shop.

Probably wait for the Mechs to show up, as I've not done anything newer than an '04 XT. But since it's 'stil an EJ-series' it should (?) just come out like you see 'em on ebay. Remove the front accessory belts, and set the power steering and AC stuff off to the sides - Still attached to their hoses. Remove the Downpipe>Turbo and Up Pipe if necessary to get to the pass. side bolts....wait...does the '10 FXT have the turbo down underneath like the Legacy GT?? Like here: http://efilogics.com/customer/4 - Subaru Customers/AlexM_2010LGT/AlexM_2010LGT_10.JPG Still stock turbo? Maybe time to rebuild / replace that too.

EDIT: Attached pic of actual spoiler mount for posterity. >>Never mind - incorrect: If the top is anything like a Forester ( and it should be similar), they do screw into the top of the rear hatch. You'll maybe find a template online. Look over on rS25.com or NASIOC where the Imprezas roost. Because of the angles, I'd be very hesitant to just 'guess' on that one. The attached is for the 1st Gen Forester...not going to be the same, but might help (or not). FORESTER SF5(98-02) Rear Spoiler Instructions SOA.pdf

HI, that remote picture is for the '99+ models. Sometimes that brown button is still tucked up under the dash. As I 'think' this was a dealer-installed option, the actual keyless and security boxes should be under the dash, too. Trace the wires for that button from there. Per Cars101.com it was an option: Keyless Remote entry - $225. with alarm $350. (made by Code Alarm) You need this fob: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm We need the actual CODE to help w/the Evap issue. Td

All the Phase 1 trans TCUs for USDM should interchange, but w/JDM??? Good question. What's the Trans ID on top of the bellhousing - should start with "TZ...." like, TZ102Z1CAA. Also, look on the rear diff, as it may show the ratio. It was shown on older Subarus...not sure when it stopped.

Read this: Car and Driver Review Specifically: Did you test drive any other cars first (not a criticism)? Subarus are 'laggy'.....You might consider a tune, but it'll probably 'null and void' your warranty. TD

...can you just swap in a different rear diff w/the 3.9 since you're RWD? ebay will show ratio....Not 100% sure as it has a weird 1.1:1 center diff, but the '02-'08 (?) WRX or STi should have a 3.9 or 3.54. Also, the old SVX had a 3.54, if you find one, but be aware that around '95 the bolt pattern on the pinion flange on the rear diff changed on Subarus - @ least in the USA. The flange can be changed...with the right tools/puller (?).

Go to NASIOC.com and read the Unabomber posts for newbs. Here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787 Don't return 'til you've read them all. :-) Good luck, Td

Your Speedo's not working? Or just the Odo? And/or the Tach? And the CEL light does work (key On/Engine off), but there are no codes, correct? I'd suspect maybe a clogged CC, too...if you can Remove the exhaust - yeah Loud AS Heck - you could test it...probably a better way, though. And this is the Phase 2 2.2, not the EJ25D, correct?

+1 I 'believe' all the EJ-series interchange? In this case EJ22 >>EJ253.

I 'think' that should still have the FWD fuse - moved to the fuse block by the battery. If the owner is willing, I'd put in the fuse and try the same tests as b4.

Using car-part.com I see that the 2011-2013 should swap. Nothing about the 2016 or newer for an interchange. But looking @ the 2016 option shows that they ALL are PZEV (see attached) so I'd doubt they'd be an option anyway. Remember that there were PZEV (Google it) and NON-PZEV versions in 2011 and you need to confirm yours matches. Also, the 2011 oil consumption was a recall by Subaru, so you should be able to tell by the VIN number of the donor car whether the engine was replaced/fixed before you buy. The VIN should be stamped on the engine - usually on the back?

No, the light only comes when low....have you used the Tripmeter to check # of miles per tank? Like I stated above, could be the fuel sender reading "E" when there's still over 1/4 tank.

Suggest a search on http://www.car-part.com/ as it shows interchange.

I'd vote Yes, as all the early and mid-90's I've had did. Doesn't sound you've run it low enough, and remember that these have a tendency to show the fuel level wrong once they get into old age. Tangent: My college-aged step-son ran his low so often that he and his wife burned OUT the low fuel light, and guess what? They ran out of gas once.

Yes...one is a single spade to the gauge; the other is a plug connector to the ECU.