wtdash

You can pop a fuse in the FWD socket by the front passenger strut tower. This will show you the difference, too....It's not recommended to drive around in FWD mode for miles and miles (although some do) and it doesn't help w/MPG either.

Per this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine The EJ203 is Phase 2 / II engine. You'd need a Phase 1 / I engine. So, your IM won't fit regardless. Easiest swap is the '95-98 USDM EJ22e. It's been covered on here a lot. There is a Phase 1 JDM EJ20D DOHC (NOT the EJ20G/K/R turbo versions), listed in that link too, which should work w/your IM, but not sure those were ever imported to the US for swaps. Not sure I've ever seen one.

There is the AVO kit, which is specific for the NA/Non-turbo Subaru and is your best OTC (over the counter) fix for an addiction to speed. Go read up on RS25.com, as that'll be your new home for turbo info....also look on NASIOC.com. READ before posting on either of those as your questions will be answered....by reading what others have already done. And, no oil cooler on the '99 2.2. On Subarus it's usually (always?) part of the oil filter housing.

HI, New: IMpreza (incl. WRX) from 2002-2007 will fit the '95+ Legacy, and there are 'quick struts' on Amazon (and likely Ebait)....can't comment on quality. You may need to get 'saggy butt spacers' due to front to back height differences. Used: Subaru struts usually last a while. You can find the lowest mile used set @ your local yard or online (watch out for shipping costs) from a '95- '99 Legacy or Outback. The OB will lift it about 2+" but there in CO you might like the added ground clearance for thost West Slope (?) snow storms. :-)

Some 'body' driving their Subie wagon in a less than responsible way? HERE

You've got a code stored in the TCM / TCU / AT computer. You'll need to search on here about how to read the TCM - AT computer - codes. May be under "secret handshake" . Yes, seriously. On the pre-'99 models it was a series of steps that would then cause the AT temp light to flash the stored code. Repeat - the flashing tells you there's a code(s) stored but not what the issue is. We can't help until you get the actual code. Or you find what needs reconnected??

NGK on the plugs/wires? Not sure if the '04 were as picky as the earlier models...but why tempt the fates. 2000-2004 Outback had NO MAF, so you're not blind. :-) It's an EJ251 vs EJ253 thing (kinda) Only the turbocharged models had a MAF in '04 - STI, WRX, FXT, Baja turbo...IIRC.

For future reference and others...you can put some tape (or similar) on the bolt head to get it to stick / wedge into the socket to hold it. Then use an extension to reach down and reinstall the bolt. Once it's snug the socket should release. Just be extra careful not to cross-thread it! There's probably an even better way that Mech's know. :-)

The '99 had an issues w/the gauges / dash cluster. Search on the fix, which I believe involves soldering. Also, the 5-speed may still use the same speedo sensor as older models that may wear out / break. It's on the passenger side near the gear oil dipstick. Looks like this and that tab on the end breaks off:

Hi, Most of the JDM stuff 'seems' to need to use the USDM's crank/Cam sprockets(gears). Maybe Japan Direct knows, too. And does your '03 have EGR? If so, you'll need to either drill and tap the head on the EJ20 or try a workaround. Likely other stuff...but I've not done this swap, but it's been done a LOT so search online, too. Remember - that same engine was used on the Impreza, Outback and Forester so any of those Subaru forums would be relevant.

Edit: What's your skill set and what's wrong w/the '05? If the heads are good on the '05 it should work on the '03 block. I'd do the HG on any used Subaru engine I bought regardless.

I've read that the cheaper versions are OK, too. Just need a long extension and 12mm(?) socket. Note its orientation when removing to install same. And if there's been any work done on the car around the KS area, it could be unplugged or damaged wiring....and be careful with those wires as they are 20+ years old and getting brittle. p.s. ...the '95 and older were known to crack, but was supposedly fixed on newer models.....so a used one will work too. A KS from a 2.5/EJ25D should work too.

Those LGT seats may sit really low since you'd sit extra high w/the reverse (Impreza>Legacy), but the LGT should have a height adjustment - on the Driver's seat. And for the generations of Subaru you're working on I've yet to see one that had bolted on rails...welded, I believe. But swapping seat belts isn't a big deal.....usually.

And if your OBS has the Automatic, then your 2.2 has EGR. The '94 won't. Here's an easy workaround LINK.

Also, the '96 was SINGLE-port exhaust; '94 was Dual...get the Exhaust header/y-pipe. And if the body is clean...that means the engine and/or trans are toast...but you likely knew that. :-)

I agree w/GD, but if you 'insist' there is the Neon / Mopar coil pack that is swappable..also MSD. Links all over the subie forums. That is, as long as you're referring to something like this:

Per the attached from opposedforces.com they should both be (G/R) 4.111. They're both running the EJ22 / 2.2. One thing is Subaru changed the rear diff's flange bolt spacing around '95, so that 'could' be a gotcha, too.

Interesting, didn't know the Dex III was a no-no on these. I thought the 4EAT used the same as the earlier models. From the OM (w/my formatting):

Quoted for truth: - Do Not take a dealer's/salesperson word. It means nothing after the sale. If the car needs a fix that they state they'll remedy it must be in writing in the PO (and good luck w/that). - 200-2004 4-cylinder - Any model really.. The 2005-2009 models have many more 'gotchas' - do your homework. NO USED SUBARU TURBOS. period. period. - Ensure HG were done; complete Timing belt kit and water pump- usually the pulleys fail, not the belt. - Get it inspected b4 you buy - preferably @ a Subaru non-dealer shop. - I'm a bigger fan of the '96-'98 Legacy / Impreza wagons/hatches with 2.2. But they are getting old and Subaru has officially (as of last year?) stopped supplying parts so fixing them could be a challenge.

see attached for the Jeep - but Autocheck - not Carfax. And two options for $6.00 or less . Jeep GC AUTOCHECK.pdf

see attached.

"flashing AT oil temp light" means there's a code stored in the TCM (vs. ECU/PCM). Search on here for a DIY to pull the codes. Then you can decide the next step.

HI, The driver's side and passenger sided (if equipped) are certainly MANUALLY adjustable. The 'mirror' portion will move left-right and up-down. I don't know what/how your wife was doing to break the glass? Also, on the '95 (and earlier) models the mirror housing - the plastic frame part that attaches to the car - is FOLDABLE - in or out only. If she was trying to adjust it up/down? maybe that was caused it to break.

Hi, '92-'94 Legacy were 3.90 FD ratio. That's the most important part. However, if you replace the rear diff you can use any '90-'91 '95-'98 2.2 or 2.5 Legacy , Impreza, or Forester Auto transmission. .. >>Caveats: you'll need to change the pinion flange on the diff to match yours....different bolt spacing. >>>Flex plate needs to match up, too. The 'seating' of the Torque Converter is also very important - search on here, and there are are a couple of seals on input/output (?) shafts to replace. Also, if buying one from a used parts yard, it may have been sitting on the shelf - for a long time and the internal seals may leak once installed- and the shop may not warranty that.

My '96 AWD Auto would only do 35MPH w/the front right broken CV. YMMV.