wtdash

maybe still on the stock 14" wheels/tires? but yeah, should be some lift w/the OB's.

"I am relatively new to the world of cars and I am in the market for a new one". Although you're an 'Automotive Service Technician Student', I'd still leave you this warning: Please don't buy a used Subaru Turbocharged car...until you've read about all their issues. Canada may have more options for JDM-based vehicles, so I can't comment directly, but note that you may have more issues getting parts.

Here is a good ECU pinout, probably what you're using: http://legacycentral.org/library/ECU_Landscape.htm Shows a couple of FI grounds?

The fender (and liners) may limit your tire size. Your lift kit may help with this. Also the lower spring perch on the front struts will rub it you go too big. Check subaruoutback.org for tire upgrade posts: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/what-is-the-absolute-largest-tire-you-can-stuff-under-a-stock-3rd-gen.123706/ I use https://tiresize.com/comparison/ to compare upgrades. Per Cars101.com your '05 i has 225/60 R16 tires. The front rotors are 11.5" dia. which will require a min. of a 16" wheel. 16" should still have some good options.

1998 Subaru Forester - Hydraulic Clutch TL;Dr: Skip down to the videos to see if the Slave Cylinder is functioning correctly. Edit: I replaced the Slave, bled it and made no difference...still wouldn't shift. Related to an earlier post about the Clutch Shudder after reinstalling engine. So I went ahead and replaced the clutch, etc. It was shifting OK before I touched the clutch etc. just the shudder. Work done: I replaced the Clutch, Presure Plate (PP), Pilot Bearing, TO (Clutch Release) Bearing, resurfaced the Flywheel (FW). I took off the Clutch Fork cleaned and regreased the pivot/contact points. Issues: -After I installed the clutch, TO bearing and its sleeve (Snout sleeve repair), attached the clutch fork, and reinstalled the engine, the 1st time I pushed the pedal it went to the floor, I pulled it back up and then after a few pushes it had mostly normal pressure. - I started the car and was able to go into 1st-with effort, but Reverse was a no go. Just grinding. I expected to grind a bit - I usually either double-clutch or shift to 5th then Reverse. But it was NOT going in this time. -It does shift to Reverse with the Engine Off. -- - I tried to adjust the pushrod - above the gas pedal - and it made no difference. - A friend and I bled the Slave Cylinder multiple - probably 20 ? - times and I think it's bled - no air in the bleed tube. But I've never actually bled one. I followed GD's advice from HERE. -Put it back together and started it up and .....still not able to shift into Reverse. - After a couple more days of avoiding it, I started thinking the clutch fork and related parts were an issue. - I pulled the rubber boot off the fork and looked down the fork (see pics linked below). I noted the TO bearing spring/Clutch Release Arm Spring was loose on one side, so I put it back. How important is that spring? - --- Still seemed like the fork+TO bearing, etc. had excessive play but I don't know if that affects the clutch engagement? - BUT after messing with the fork I started the car and Reverse worked for 2-3 shifts....before starting to grind too much to shift again. So something I did helped - temporarily. I posted some videos on YT of the SC's movement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjwpOP1Dqws&list=PLbqrvIFGwYNxroKppXHoq_OZUL-ucDo7y And here are 2 pics looking down the Fork's access hole: Before I pull the engine again, I'd like to rule out what I can do. Thanks for any feedback.

Kinda like this, huh? :-) I put some '03-'08 Forester struts and 215/70R16 tires wheels on my '98 Foz. Different Subie, but similar setup. The Foz struts will fit your OB 'as is'. Gave me 9.5" of GC and doesn't mess much w/the CV angles. Tires are tight and just rubbed the mudflaps but 5 mins w/a hacksaw fixed that. Your 27.7" is likely a 215/75R15, for the stock OB alloys, and may a better fit to start. Maybe run that combo and see b4 adding strut spacers, etc. Also, I'm not sure it's applicable to the '99, since it has the Phase 2 Transmission/electronics, but there are two mods I like for the 4EAT: Center Diff Lock and Power Shift Mod. Covered on here somewheres. GL, TD

http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart

Consistent, every time. Doesn't close UP regardless of using the Tilt or Open/Close button. I can push it up after closing and it'll fall back. Thanks for the reply

2003 Legacy 'SE' Sedan with Sunroof / Moonroof (per OM). EDIT: I was able to used the Tilt function to get it to stay UP and closed. I ran some electrical tape around it to seal it closed for now. Deal with it next spring. - Sunroof controls seem to work fine - tilt, forward, back etc. but the back edge of the glass drops down about 1" when closed. I can push it up, but it falls back. Like there is a spring, etc. that should hold it UP, but has failed. -Googling brings up lots of posts about motor-related issues, but that doesn't appear to be my problem.I also read about a 'calibration' option, but may only apply to '05+. - I know it can be closed manually using the hexheaded wrench, which I've yet to try....but doubt that will work since the motor does move it. - I don't really care if it opens, but DO care that it stays closed. Feedback appreciated. Thanks Sunroof diagram

The 'new' engine has its own mounts - and was previously installed w/out the clutch issue. But....I was wondering if the Transmission mount could conribute to this? It may be past its prime. I have a new one to install....just haven't gotten to it.

Thanks for the reply. Yes...hydraulic clutch. I've read horror stories of trying to bleed the slave/master cylinder on these. I just put another 35 miles on it, which included some city driving and it's totally inconsistent. Not sure why it would help, but will keep driving it 'as is' for another few days and see if it improves.

1998 Forester 255K miles - 5-speed manual. - Clutch kit and Flywheel resurfaced with 80K miles on them. - I swapped in another engine due to HG failure and transferred the flywheel and clutch, etc to the 'new' engine. I used a torque wrench on the FW and Clutch Plate bolts. Engine/Trans mated up without fuss. - After Swap, clutch shudders when engaging and accelerating from a dead-stop; otherwise engages OK. Seems worse after engine warms up. - Clutch worked fine - no issues prior to swap. WHAT DID I LIKELY MESS UP during the SWAP? If I have to go back in to 'fix' it I may just resurface the flywheel and install a new clutch kit. Are there any good (cheaper) options besides the Exedy or Act clutch kits? Thanks

And '99 EJ25D ECU won't work due to Phase 2 Trans - if Automatic....tried one in my '96 and got a CODE, that I can't recall, but it was 'trans related' I believe.

What are the codes ? Common issue is a cracked Knock Sensor, esp. on the <'95 models.

I used Evoscan on a '90 I turbo-swapped running both a '92 SS ECU and and an early EJ20G with a RobTune. Also, used it on my '96 Legacy NA-T, which still has the SSM connectors. I'd focus on getting the cable to work...sounds like that's your first hurdle. Post I found on NASIOC, but not sure how useful it is. Here are the parameters I used:

Thanks GD. I had the Cruise and a one-way valve (so the MAP wouldn't code in boost) in-line. Removed them both and back to stock and runs better and no Code. EM: Wiring sux and unless there's a 'plugNpray' option, it's not worth it (to me @ least) to go stand-alone. I had a Greddy EMU on this same Foz and had two tuners fail to tune it, so I gave up and removed it. If I keep the boost under about 8PSI and install my Vortech, it should be OK from what others have done.

Edit: I fixed the P0400 code after following GD's advice to check the vacuum hoses. I had some non-stock connections and one-way valve going to the pass. side pressure MAP sensor (so the MAP wouldn't 'see' positive pressure under boost). Fixed the stutter / stumble - Possible cause of stutter / stumble issues: Fuel injectors tested and cleaned. One was sticking a bit...but the shop thought it would have shown up during idle,too, not just during accel. The IAC / Idle air control valve has 3 bolts in the corners. Upper two are longer than the one on the bottom right corner. I noted that bottom was tight....but was too long and likely contributed to a vacuum leak???? '98 Forester with P0400 code: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow -Running an EJ22E block with EJ25D heads. Turbocharged (7 PSI). Stock ECU/ECM. (I've done this 2 times previously with NO issues.) - Engine stutter/stumbles until I get over 3K RPM. Cruises at 65 and idles just fine. What Causes the Stutter/STumble???? - Car seems to run rich? Black residue coming out of tail pipe. - Checked injectors' resistance - OK; new fuel filter; tune-up is current. What I've done so far: - Replaced EGR valve, BPT (common cause), and EGR solenoid from a used working IM. - Cleaned out the hard lines/ pipes. - Checked vacuum lines. At this point I just want to figure out What Causes the Stutter/STumble???? Thanks

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Finish up this thread. Everyone gets a Pleiades star cluster for naming the condenser as the cause. Replaced with a new one, charged it up and the cold air is back. For future reference, I found out during the diagnostic phase that I could jumper the connector at the AC Dryer to cycle the Compressor's clutch. I'd also read that connecting the green diagnostic connectors under the dash would cycle the clutch but that didn't work on my '98 Forester. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. I'll give the condenser some attention after the holiday (and the heat!) TD

AC Issue: The AC on my '98 Forester is not working. I changed the common failure point where the O-rings are on the low and high side pipes that connect to the compressor. (This has fixed every other Subie I've had. ) The AC light on climate control comes on. Fuse is good and I tried a different relay. I jumpered the Dryer's connector (by the pass. front strut tower) and the comp. clutch moves in/out. When I started to fill it with new refrigerant the clutch on the AC never turned on and then I got a really loud hissing/pressure noise coming out of the front of the car by the radiator. I’m assuming that’s the condenser but I don’t know whether that means the condenser is plugged or if there is a valve in that area that could also be broken? I don't have AC gauges or a way to pull a vaccum. Thanks for any insight.

Thanks for the info. I haven't been getting update notifications. I updated my password.....oops.

Hi, IMHO, the CR reliability reports are valid. Why the '10 Forester and OB are rated differently I can't comment. I'd also check the 'carcomplaints.com' site. It's more opinionated in that its title is the 1st clue - complaints vs. overall experience. People frequently share an opinion when it's broken and not when it's working properly. After the '11 FB25 issues, I'd still be suspect if Subaru actually fixed the oil usage. Their policy - in years past - has been 1qt/1K miles oil consumption was normal, which means you're out of oil well before the next oil change (OCI). But I've not kept pace with the current reliability of the new(er) FB-series engines. Ideally, you'd have a local independent Subaru mech- not a dealership tech- that you can trust for info, too. Good luck

Good Day! I'm suffering a leak from the passenger side (right ) rear camshaft cap. It was leaking when I installed the engine, so I just acquired the correct O-ring: Engine Camshaft Seal O Ring 806946030. When I reinstalled it, the cap installed a little more snugly then the last time I'd done this task, and I used the two 'wing' bolts to suck it in to the head. Still Leaked. So, wondering if it (or I did it) was possibly warped or whatever can happen to this part? Example: Any feedback is appreciated. And wondering If I can just use some RTV around it to stop the leak? Thanks P.s. FWIW, the engine ran great (I've since pulled for another engine upgrade), and other than the leak, didn't appear to consume oil.

And for maintenance history only, create a free account on 'mycarfax . com ' to look up what's been done.