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Found 7 results

  1. 1997 Legacy Outback Limited EJ25 5-spd 4-wheel discs 4.11:1 finals limited slips '04 Forester strut assemblies 1-1/2' lift 215/65-16's swapped a freshened-up EJ25 with 90k last summer @ ~260k mi capped and plugged everything but fuel pressure, brake booster, and PCV Y-pipe header with straight 2" flex all the way back to a single muffler. One O2 sensor. removed A/C and jumped sensors so 2nd fan runs when button is on (Assisted Cooling) Dual alternators and dual batteries, isolated systems. Starboard battery just starts the engine. The port battery is deep cycle, and runs everything in the car, as well as connecting to the solar camper to double the power bank. Overhead off-road lights wired to the former seat heater switches on the center console, roof basket, full-size spare, CB/WX radio system, bluetooth 6-speaker stereo, 10" sub behind the seat, all LED lighting, classII trailer hitch, etc... New Stuff: CV axles, driveshaft/center bearing, brake pads/parking shoes, tires, carbon clutch/flywheel set, control arms and bushings, balljoints and tie rods, strut assemblies, ignition coil/wire/plugs, batteries and all cables, all drivetrain fluids, radiator/pump/thermo, timing system/pulleys, F/R main seals, cam seals, turbo MLS head gaskets, pan gasket/pump seals, all cover gaskets, motor/trans mounts, fuel pump unit, and all belts/hoses/filters/fuses.... I Love Lucy <3
  2. ---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! This is a car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana and its my camper project.To be clear I haven't started this car in 2 years. I'm taking every preventative measure that I know of before I start this thing so I don't cause any extra damage. I was the last person to drive it 2 years ago and it was overheating a bit (or the gauge was saying it was), bubbles coming up through the overflow tank, we only drove it about 2-3 miles pulling off every few hundred feet to let it cool down and pour water in the radiator since its all we had. without having turned it on yet the head gaskets appear to be in tact and they were changed to MLS about 3 years ago, so I certainly hope I haven't blown anything from that small drive. Nothing crazy happened that I could tell, no loss of power or anything abnormal while I was driving it all seemed normal other than bubbles coming up through the overflow reservoir.Anyway my goal is to not damage anything else when I turn it on. When I changed the oil it was not milky and showed no signs of coolant mixing with the oil, it looked like normal oil and I don't quite know if I can say that that means I didn't blow a gasket so if anyone could tell me what else I should be worried about and from a visual inspection, the Valve/Rocker cover gaskets seemed to be dripping oil or maybe it dripped from somewhere else I'm not sure but again I'm taking every precaution I can other than super expensive overly involved repairs like a water pump, timing belt and head gaskets.other than advice for my general goal of getting this thing running without extra issues or at least turn it on and have it running well enough that I can identify bigger issues that require me taking it into the pros, I need help with the replacement of these valve/rocker cover gaskets.I am changing these valve/rocker cover gaskets, grommets and bushings out along with the spark plugs since ill be down there anyway.The owner service manual says I should put "fluid packing sealant" on the corners of the semi circular part of the covers and a couple other places. I have no clue what an appropriate amount of sealant is, and I'm not confident enough that the diagram from the service manual shows all of the right spots.So if someone could help me out and maybe provide a thread, video or personal advice on how to do this properly.Other precautions I'm taking before turning the key for the first time in 2 years (please help me add to the list or let me know what steps to do something properly:1. Oil change and oil filter change2. Drain old fuel from gas tank3. Drain old coolant and add new, as well as bleed system of air with radiator funnel kit.4. OEM thermostat replacement5. Replace spark plugs.6. Fogging oil sprayed in cylinders while spark plugs are out.Tell me what I'm missing and feel free to ask me to clarify anything I left out
  3. Hey all!!This is a continuation of my 1999 Outback camper project.I want to raise the overall ground clearance by 1"-1.5" inches, whether that is achieved by Tires, struts, springs or spacers im not sure yet and recommendations are welcome.I also want to increase approach and departure angles by adding tube bumpers and a winch down the road.My goal is to have this vehicle be ready for everything, to me this means that i want some practical back up gear to repair things that break mechanically, Extra coolant, extra motor oil, full size spare, portable battery jumper the list goes on.I want to know what are the most common failure points when offroading this old wagon? I want to have a back up tucked away just in case I ever break a tie rod or control arm or if something goes wrong in the engine.I dont have a good idea of what would be the most common failure points are and id rather not carry a backup of every piece that would go wrong but if i can have some practical backups to anticipate breaks it would be nice that if i ever snap a "this" or break a "that" i can replace it with an onboard back up parts that i have stowed away.please let me know what are things i can practically keep onboard for that inevitable "rainy" day where I bent a control arm or something...
  4. Hey yall!So I've got a 1999 Legacy Outback Limited, This was my fathers car before he passed away and I want to make it more off-road capable for camping and above average trails. At first I was wanting to go hard with a big 2.5 inch lift, however from what I've heard because I have a 2.5 automatic I'm going to be losing power and more prone to breaking things because of the larger wheels and transmission / cv being angled different from stock.My buddy has a 2017 Jeep Wrangler and it got through this trail in Nelson Nevada no problem completely stock with 8.3 inches of ground clearance, the trail really isn't too bad but towards the end its got some pretty funky dips and rocks, that the better approach angle of the jeep makes it easier to go through.https://www.lasvegasjeeptrails.com/jeep-trails/Lake-Mohave-Area/Fire-Mountain-Cove/I basically want my Subaru to be capable of running the same road for camping and stuff.I'm thinking since the stock Subaru comes with 7.3" inches of clearance already, besides the approach angles being worse because of the front and rear bumper of the outback, would a 1" lift or forester struts and stiffer springs and going from 26.3" tire diameter to 27.7" tire do the trick and get me to over 8.5" clearance?I figure if I can at least get to where the jeep is stock ill be golden.any advice on if I should even lift it or not is always welcome and how much should I lift? what kind of tires? what kind of struts and springs, is it worth swapping to an H6 for more power?also when it comes to power how much do I have to worry about losing power when lifting the outback, I want to throw camping gear in here and a full size spare as well and roof rack and all that. do I have to worry about that?I've read that the extra weight / Rotational mass affects the power quite a bit. what should I expect power wise from stock to 1 inch up to 2 inches, how much less camping gear or weight can it handle and still make it down the trail without ruining my transmission?thanks yall anything helps!!
  5. Hey everyone, im new to the Subaru community and wanted some advice. I've got a 99 outback that was my fathers before he passed away, and i want to turn it into a tough and reliable off road camper. im willing to put money into it over the years and it going to be my daily driver here for a while. once we are past the head gasket issues what can i do to make sure this thing is it excellent mechanical condition for road trips and camping i dont want to get stuck on a mountain because of engine trouble. aside from the engine what other upgrades can i make to make this thing a tank off road? i want to be able to keep up with my buddy's jeep wrangler, i know i cant go everywhere he can go when he has a 3.5" lift with 37 inch tires. but i want to go as far as i can on a reasonable lift like 1.5-2.5" that wont make the car underpowered because of the extra weight, nor make the axels and joints more prone to breaking. can i upgrade the axels and joints? should i? what should i upgrade it to? this thing is going to be a dedicated daily driver and camper so i want to cover any potential failure points before they fail and beef them up. any suggestions or people to call other forums i should post on or whatever you think will help.
  6. Hey all, I've got a beatufiul 78 subaru brat, and looking for a snugtop for it. The weather has been a bit inclement here, and would really enjoy having a camper top to haul my dog / equipment worry free. Would be willing to pick one up in OR, WA, ID, and CA. Also, has anyone heard of anyone homemade campers on brats? thanks!
  7. Since Betty White the Loyale is going to become my home away from home this winter I need to figure out how to make it a little more cozy. The wagon will become a two seater with a permanent 'bed' in the back. The mattress will not be permanent but the seats will be gone and replaced with a sheet of plywood and storage underneath. I would like to insulate it for sound, cold and if I could get some padding out of it that would be great. I will be insulating behind the panels with Roxul (mold resistant bats of fibreglass insulation). The footwells, seat area and back section of the wagon need something. Dynamat would take car of sound but not the cold or give any padding. Dynamat and Roxul could work but I worry about the Roxul holding water from gear, etc. Is there a thicker dynamat type product that has any sort of insulating value? Any ideas.
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