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Found 179 results

  1. Hello, I need to pass emissions in California with my 1994 Loyale. When I took it in to get tested it passed everything except for the visual of the EGR system. The tech said that when he pushed the diaphragm on the EGR valve, the car should stumble and/or die, but it didn't, which he said was a symptom of clogged EGR passages. I took the EGR valve off, cleaned it, the stem moves well, even when on the car and I increase throttle to 2500 rpms. The carbon deposits didn't look too bad. I tried to clean the passages with a speedometer cable and some carb cleaner. I found that I couldn't get it around some of the bends in the passages. I knocked some carbon loose and vacuumed it up and tried blowing air down the passages. When I reinstalled the valve again, the car still wouldn't change its idle when I pushed the diaphragm in to open the valve. In fact the car ran fine without the EGR valve on (it was louder since it was blowing exhaust gases out of the lower hole). The EGR valve moves when applying vacuum and holds it when I keep the vaccum applied, so it doesn't leak when it is closed and is not seized. Also, the vacuum hoses don't seem to have a leak, since it opens at higher RPMs. I also have a 35ohm resistor mounted on the purge valve solenoid instead of the old stuck solenoid in order to clear the CE light. Would this effect the car and keep it from dying when pushing the EGR valve diaphragm? Or is it a completely different system? The EGR solenoid is brand new. What do you recommend that I do? Is the tech right? Are the EGR passages clogged? How do I get at them? I unscrewed the flare nuts that hold the 90º EGR pipe in place, but seemingly couldn't remove it without taking the intake manifold off. Also, I remember cleaning that pipe 10K miles ago when I did the head gaskets, so I imagine it is other passages? Does anyone have a diagram of how the passages run? Any other tests I can do? Many thanks!
  2. Hi all! Just recently purchased a 1993 Subaru Loyale Wagon from a single owner. The beautiful green box is a 5 speed manual (which is very new to me). I have only had 3 hours of seat time, but have already fallen in love with the car. There is currently a check engine light on and I cannot figure out how to the check codes! I have done a moderate amount of searching to find out that the diagnostic connectors are green and on the drivers side in the engine bay. When I plug those green connectors together the check engine light goes away and does not flash. I was under the impression the light would start flashing at me. I have only done moderate car work on 2005 saturn ions. So I am new to most mechanical endeavors, but cant wait to put some blood, sweat and tears into this ea82. Im sure this is some simple issue, but my mind is all over the place. This OBD1 business makes my head hurt Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me some average idle RPMs for the 1993 loyale manual transmission. It was stable around 1k the first week I drove it but sometimes sticks closer to 500. Thanks!! Sorry if this is readily available information.
  3. Evap/egr system is bad enough to make replacing the efi with the weber look like a good idea, but how's the ea82 to rebuild when its time to do so? Are any of the newer engines candidates for transplant/drop in instead of rebuilding the ea82? By the way, thanks for all the help I've gotten so far from your forum.
  4. Alright boys, this ones got me scratching my head. Leaving work last night, I went to fire up my 1992 Loyale and every thing was fine at first. Being winter, I sat and let it warm up a few minutes. It was running a little rough, but I live in Anchorage, Alaska and its pretty chilly. Maybe 20 degrees. When i say it was running a little rough, it's normal steady rhythm was off, like it was missing a beat or two. Typical for a cold start. I went to pull from thr curb. About a block down the road, still running rough, right after shifting into second, the engine quit. No extra noises. After trying to restart immediately failed, i pushed it to the curb. Popped the hood. I found nothing obvious. I improved the battery's ground and the ground off the transmission (by the way, i do not understand this wires function. It runs from the top of the trans housing to the upper framework that would hold the spare. If it is disconnected the car still operates, but at 8 volts not 12-14, and fluctuates with the clutch. If someone could explain that I'd really appreciate. Ive owned and turned wrenches on this thing for 10 years and still dont understand that wire. Its a manual. There should be no electrical in the gear box, right) Anyways. It was pretty darn low on fuel, but the gas light wasnt on yet. To be sure I put a few more gallons in. Checked the oil, also low but not terrible. Topped it off. It still won't fire up. It turns over, theres good power. It tries to start weakly. It sounds like it wants to. Its dark so I'll check it out more tomarrow. I just dont understand what it could be. It was running good, then just quit just like that. Ive done a lot of work to this ride. Timing, alt, new batt, throw out bearing, valve cover seals, etc. Any help I'd deep appreciate.
  5. Question: do all 4x140 Subie wheels fit the 90s Loyales? I was chatting with a fellow a while back about older gen DL/GL wheels not fitting newer Loyales due to brake clearance, etc. Being I have zero experience here, I thought I’d ask the experts. Ive got a lead on a sweet set of 13” “H” style wheels (from and ‘85 I believe.) Any known issues fitting these on my ‘90 Loyale Wagon? Also, anyone know where to score 2 matching center caps?
  6. Hello all, hope you're having a good night (or day)! My '92 Loyale has run well for the past couple months I've owned it. No overheats, no stalling and good, smooth power (for a Loyale). A couple days ago I got bored and decided to drain and replace my coolant which was brown and a little chunky. I'm very very new to auto maintenance and I don't really have anyone to tell me what's what, so I didn't recognize the brown coloration as a sign of oil-coolant mixing. Drained it all out of the radiator and flushed with water till it came out clear, filled it up with new coolant and bubbled it for about 30 mins just like the YouTube videos said. Of note is that it didn't take all 6 qts of coolant like it's supposed to, only about 3. I chalked it up to some water from the flushing process staying in the block. Like I said, not very experienced. Car ran just fine for about two days until it overheated in the Chick-fil-A drive thru (best possible time, I know) and blew some white smoke out of the tailpipe. Of note is that my temperature gauge never went above about half, nowhere near the red. I went inside and ate my chicken sandwich and let it cool down. Coolant was back to that nasty brown although the level hadn't gone down, still right up to the fill cap. However, my oil was low beyond the dipstick. I had checked the oil a few days prior to changing the coolant and it was right where it should be. So I go to the Publix conveniently right next door and fill er up. Drove home (only about 2 miles) with no noticeable loss of power, but a steady rise in temperature. I thought at first that low oil might have caused the overheat, but it was still happening with oil full. Did some research and found that burning coolant makes white smoke, and that that mainly results from blown head gaskets. But the thing is, the car hasn't blown any white smoke since that day at all. Not only that, but my oil is still clean, I haven't noticed any loss of power, and my radiator hoses are squishy while engine cold. Only the coolant is brown and contaminated. I think the issue may be combustion gas in the coolant system that's preventing my thermostat from opening and preventing me from adding the correct amount of coolant. What do ya'll think? Am I stupid and missing something obvious, because I wouldn't doubt it. I bought some pour-n-go head gasket sealer as a stopgap till I can take more drastic measures, but I don't really want to pour it in brown coolant until I know what the problem is. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  7. My Loyale was stolen last night. Just I ncase anyone in the SF Bay Area spots this one on the road. it was stolen 5/15 please contact me Luke - 808 seven 56 five 705
  8. I have a 93 loyale wagon, and recently the ebrake will work for a couple of weeks then not work for a couple of weeks, if I turn the wheels and have someone pull the ebrake I can see it working near the brakes. I’m confused, please help lol
  9. Edit I'll be in Eugene OR for Christmas, does anyone have mechanic recommendations my 92 Loyale could use. Stock ea-82 w/ 160k, Dr swap, 2 inch SJR lift, 1.5 sub frame drop. Rear disc. Toyota rear struts with Accord springs. I've done the majority of work myself but just cant do another axle job. Im starting to think its something to do with me and not the axles. I got rebuilds from Marshall at FW Enterprises I'm looking for someone that would appreciate some of the not so stock things about it help me improve the suspension and advise on engine maintenance. I am moving to Denver next summer so I might wait to work with some of the mechanics out there. Seems like there are more options. Thanks
  10. Car leaking at Rear Glass (back windsheild??). Leaking at lower right corner. I had the rear glass removed and reinstalled. To remove rear glass you need to remove the two plastic side vent covers. I need the right cover, the sister lost the part and I can't even find a part no. in any of the online part supplier drawings. 93 Loyale Sedan Rear Glass Side Vent Covers (plastic) these cover openings on each side of the rear glass which let air which enters the cabin from the cowl to exit the cabin. The covers fit well and stop any water from getting in. I have a few photos. Can anyone tell me what Subaru calls these? Or, what the part numbers or section of the Subaru parts catalog to look in? They press on/in and the clips are old plastic and can break. My glass guy got the left side off with only one clip breaking and was able to reinstall it by gluing the broken clip.
  11. Two hours ago my1991 Loyale just stopped running. Attempt to restart acted like timing was way off and there was backfire. As timing belts were visible (I've been leaving t.b. covers off) I rotated the crank bolt and checked flywheel marks with cam sprockets. All good there, showing that timing belts did not jump. Car running fine, no warning, then stall. Recent history: I got some gas just 5 minutes before (Was on empty) . Nobody tampered with car. And - I pulled ignition coil wire and car cranked over normally. Check ECM under dash. No codes. Will check distributor cap and rotor in the morning. Thanks
  12. Any help or info would be a help. Thanks Isaak---
  13. Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344
  14. I am trying to solve coolant leaks on the passenger side head of a 93 Loyale. Before dismantling, I saw coolant on the top of the head from the intake gasket when I pressurized to cooling system - engine off. There was also coolant coming out (slowly) from the rear cylinder exhaust port. It had leaked into and around the exhaust pipe rusting the bolts. Now I have pulled the head looking for issues inside. The head gasket looks fine but the top row of head bolts are rusty. Probably from the intake leak on the top of the head. Anything else to look for? I hope the head isn't cracked. Could the intake leak cause all this? (I'll try to attach pictures or link to my gallery) This is a JDM engine. The EGR pipe routes to a cannister that isn't connected to anything on the other side (just plugged). Is that the best thing to do?
  15. I removed the passenger side head for another issue. I turned the crank so the flywheel was on the 3 marks and the passenger cam pulley had the timing mark pointing up at the timing cover mark. My question is what is going on with the driver's side cam pulley. It has 2 marks on it - one pointing up and the other down. See the picture. On both pulleys, a mark is on the 5th hole (the small one) and it is aligned with the spring pin that locates the pulley on the cam. But on the driver's side, this 5th hole is pointing down!!! The previous owner installed new belts. Did he line up the drivers side 180 deg off? Can the engine run that way? (It did run but not the greatest power. Didn't sound bad.) Are the two pulleys supposed to be marked differently but mine are not? Thanks for your help. (Trying to get the photo to show up)
  16. So I have an 88 GL wagon with 5spd and Hi/low. I have a chance to buy a 1991 or so Loyale 4wd auto car, which I want as a supply of donor parts. Would the hubs be the same? I'm pretty sure axles aren't, but that's ok. Has enough body and other parts on it that I'm thinking it's a buy. Just didn't know about hubs (yeah I changed one on mine and am suspicious I'll need another, not sure. Eric
  17. Hello everyone, first time posting so bear with me! Last winter I bought a 1990 Loyale 4WD Turbo with 55k in just about perfect condition. I'm the 2nd owner, been garaged its whole life. It did have some problems with overheating which led to me sinking a few grand into it to replace all engine gaskets, water pump, and radiator, but other than that it's run like a total dream and has been consistently maintained throughout its life. I'm curious to see about what money I might be able to get out of it if I sell. Between buying it and the repairs I spent around $5k total, and based on the research I did before buying it seems like an extremely reliable and desirable ride. Any help or input as far as helping figuring out a solid value would be much appreciated!
  18. Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling)
  19. Hello Everyone, greetings from South America new to forum posting, long time voyeur. I recently picked up a 89 loyale 4wd ea82 carbed, 5mt dual range in regular body conditions but with a really smooth running engine, not so smooth tranny! My question is, What is the number of positions the 4wd lever should have (curved lever, not the "T" style lever found on brats), and what does its supossed to do on each? As of now i have figured out: 2H N ( should this be a 4 High?. No light at dash)) 4L ( this posittion turns on light at dash) Normal should be? 2h 4high 4low Little info: On purchase chek, i noticed a squirring sound when putting it on 4wd, (first step of lever y assume). Previous owner said it was only the rear diff being dry and that i would just have to pour some oil in it and it will stop making the sound, he offered me a deal, 200 usd of, if i took it like that, v/s regular price if he refilled it and it stopped the sound. Took the gamble, only to later find out that rear diff spins all the time (yikes!) Refilled it and it seemed to work fine! But still, cant find or seem to find how the heck to get it on 4wd High. Looked under the car when doing the oil change, when movin the 4wd lever it posittively made the rod on the transfer move in and out without issues.
  20. Hello! I have a 1993 Loyale with just over 90 on the clock that has just started acting up on me. i have been combing the threads and tried about everything i could find and am still having issues! The main big problem is that it seems to be in some kind of "limp" mode. Absolutely minimal power when you press the accelerator down. i can get it up to about 25 mph and then no faster. Engine is not over heating as far as i can tell but when i run it and it gets to temp and the idle settles down the exhaust manifold seems to overheat. It is burning off old crud and smoking a little. Background: Water pump and cooling fan needed to be replaced. While replacing found that master cylinder and brakes needed some love so they were replaced as well. I got car back and drove for about 4 days before it started doing this limp mode thing out of nowhere. So i started researching on here. I pulled the MAF sensor and it seems to be in good repair and clean. I pulled the exhaust of the engine and checked it doing a vacuum test i found on here. (hook vaccuum up to tail pipe and see if it struggles with manifold disconnected) It passed that test. So i read the code off the ECM. EGR, which seems like an easy fix right? Wrong! Replaced the EGR solenoid and still have the same issue. Back to the drawing board. at this point for some reason the car's idle has started acting very weird. Surgin to 2500 and lowering to about stalling, on and off without rhyme or reason. I read that the Engine temperature sensor can affect idle and fix the speed issue, so i replaced it today. Idle is back to normal and check engine light is gone BUTTTTTTTTT car still has no engine power!! I am at a loss at this point and would appreciate ANY help!! Thanks in advance! -Devin
  21. Hi there, I've read a few threads already but I want to get some things straight because I'm not a mechanic. I have a 92' Loyale Wagon, SPFI, 5spd manual, 130k Original Km's (80k miles). Codes show 24 and 34. (http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/) 24 Air control valve or circuit 34 EGR solenoid or circuit The car starts every time, Idles a bit high on cold start (but only owned it since the beginning of winter so not sure how it idles normal in warmer temps), seems like it struggles at about 110+ km/h (70mph) but I understand it's not a fast car. No funny sounds coming from engine. Based on my web knowledge about vacuum leaks it doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak. So it must be these valves/solenoid? Reading a bit more stuff I found out the Air control Valve and EGR Valve can build up carbon deposits. My question is: If I replace just the Air Control Valve and the EGR solenoid will that clear the codes? For the Air Control Valve code - Will carbon build up in the throttle body or in ACV trigger the check engine code? For the EGR code - Will a dysfunctional/clogged EGR valve trigger the CEL or is it just the solenoid? I understand if I replace the valves and give it a little TLC, its probably good for the long run. But want to get your guys input and solutions for more confidence and less frustration when the doing job A lot of the threads tend to go into more technical stuff or are just very basic and old so I decided to start a new thread. Thanks for reading Randolph.
  22. Hey folks, I have a 1990 loyale that is naturally aspirated and I am losing some coolant when I drive it. I found a couple different wet spots on the radiator​ fins and one underneath a bolt on top of the radiator that squirts when I drive it. The engine does not overheat, but there is a small amount of whispy white smoke coming from the wet spot on top of the radiator when I come to a stop. It started doing this a few days ago after a long trip out of town. The radiator fins are corroded and falling apart in some places. I'm young and not super mechanically adept yet, so I want to check and see if anybody has any advice before I get a new radiator​. If you know any other factors that could be causing this let me know I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys
  23. I'm swapping the whole drivetrain out of my loyale and wanted to lift it while I'm there. It's my dally so I was thinking a 4" AA lift, might go with a 6" depending on how much harder they are that a 4". Never lifted a Subaru before but I know you have to extend the steering knuckle, radiator hoses, and brake lines but is that all with the 4"? Is there more to fabricate with a 6" or are they about the same? I also found a 84 GL yesterday for free and its got a d/r tranny so I wanted to make it a trail and hunting rig. Mostly swamp or snow around here so I'd like to make it water crossing ready, maybe side by side tracks, big o lift, welded diff, ext. Will it's little 1.6 and 4mt be able to handle that though? I know the 4speeds are considered crap but this thing will pretty much live in low range and crawl around. Also how high can I lift an ea81 with stock axles? What all do I have to extend and disconnect.
  24. hey ya'll I found a spot in Detroit, MI that can order new aftermarket fenders for the Loyale....gonna put them on my 88 GL and I'm curious as I can't find info on what this looks like.... I don't have holes for an air dam in the 88 correct? Looks like the Loyale fenders can come with holes for air dam or they can't. I'm just not sure if I have them or not. If anyone is curious this is the place I am ordering them from....no idea where they are getting them from. $75 a piece to much? http://www.mitchsautoparts.com/contactus.html
  25. Hi everyone - I'm new here. I have been having ongoing problems starting my 1992 Loyale and it has been diagnosed as needing to have replaced the idle air control valve and/or the throttle position sensor. The repair shop has notified me that they are having trouble finding the parts anywhere. Does anyone know where we might be able to locate them?
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